73 cj5
05-26-2004, 09:56 AM
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
it did not run when i purchased it thanks for all your help
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c9259b0hkd@enews1.newsguy.com...
> That vintage shoud have a ballast resistor. The issuie here is simply that
> you have no power to the coil when the key is in the "ON" position, opnly
> when it is in the "start" position. YTou need a wiring diagram showing the
> starting circuit for that MY & powertrain. Then you need to replace the
> missing wiring.
>
> Did this friggin' thing run before you bought it? If so, what happened
> afterwqards? In other words, what repairs or mods were done that caused
this
> problem?
>
>
> "KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:ak0tc.23252$0X2.690619@twister.tampabay.rr.co m...
> > i was told i did not have a balist resistor i was told i have a
resistive
> > wire ?
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40B3FFE8.A752AEE3@***.net...
> > > Then it's this resistor ballast or a connection to it that's
bolted
> > > to the firewall more to the center than this one:
> > > http://www.----------.com/SteveCoilResistor.jpg
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:--------------------
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > that is exactly what is happening
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c9259b0hkd@enews1.newsguy.com...
> That vintage shoud have a ballast resistor. The issuie here is simply that
> you have no power to the coil when the key is in the "ON" position, opnly
> when it is in the "start" position. YTou need a wiring diagram showing the
> starting circuit for that MY & powertrain. Then you need to replace the
> missing wiring.
>
> Did this friggin' thing run before you bought it? If so, what happened
> afterwqards? In other words, what repairs or mods were done that caused
this
> problem?
>
>
> "KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:ak0tc.23252$0X2.690619@twister.tampabay.rr.co m...
> > i was told i did not have a balist resistor i was told i have a
resistive
> > wire ?
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40B3FFE8.A752AEE3@***.net...
> > > Then it's this resistor ballast or a connection to it that's
bolted
> > > to the firewall more to the center than this one:
> > > http://www.----------.com/SteveCoilResistor.jpg
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:--------------------
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > that is exactly what is happening
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
05-26-2004, 09:56 AM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
it did not run when i purchased it thanks for all your help
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c9259b0hkd@enews1.newsguy.com...
> That vintage shoud have a ballast resistor. The issuie here is simply that
> you have no power to the coil when the key is in the "ON" position, opnly
> when it is in the "start" position. YTou need a wiring diagram showing the
> starting circuit for that MY & powertrain. Then you need to replace the
> missing wiring.
>
> Did this friggin' thing run before you bought it? If so, what happened
> afterwqards? In other words, what repairs or mods were done that caused
this
> problem?
>
>
> "KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:ak0tc.23252$0X2.690619@twister.tampabay.rr.co m...
> > i was told i did not have a balist resistor i was told i have a
resistive
> > wire ?
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40B3FFE8.A752AEE3@***.net...
> > > Then it's this resistor ballast or a connection to it that's
bolted
> > > to the firewall more to the center than this one:
> > > http://www.----------.com/SteveCoilResistor.jpg
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:--------------------
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > that is exactly what is happening
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c9259b0hkd@enews1.newsguy.com...
> That vintage shoud have a ballast resistor. The issuie here is simply that
> you have no power to the coil when the key is in the "ON" position, opnly
> when it is in the "start" position. YTou need a wiring diagram showing the
> starting circuit for that MY & powertrain. Then you need to replace the
> missing wiring.
>
> Did this friggin' thing run before you bought it? If so, what happened
> afterwqards? In other words, what repairs or mods were done that caused
this
> problem?
>
>
> "KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:ak0tc.23252$0X2.690619@twister.tampabay.rr.co m...
> > i was told i did not have a balist resistor i was told i have a
resistive
> > wire ?
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40B3FFE8.A752AEE3@***.net...
> > > Then it's this resistor ballast or a connection to it that's
bolted
> > > to the firewall more to the center than this one:
> > > http://www.----------.com/SteveCoilResistor.jpg
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:--------------------
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > that is exactly what is happening
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
05-26-2004, 09:56 AM
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
it did not run when i purchased it thanks for all your help
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c9259b0hkd@enews1.newsguy.com...
> That vintage shoud have a ballast resistor. The issuie here is simply that
> you have no power to the coil when the key is in the "ON" position, opnly
> when it is in the "start" position. YTou need a wiring diagram showing the
> starting circuit for that MY & powertrain. Then you need to replace the
> missing wiring.
>
> Did this friggin' thing run before you bought it? If so, what happened
> afterwqards? In other words, what repairs or mods were done that caused
this
> problem?
>
>
> "KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:ak0tc.23252$0X2.690619@twister.tampabay.rr.co m...
> > i was told i did not have a balist resistor i was told i have a
resistive
> > wire ?
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40B3FFE8.A752AEE3@***.net...
> > > Then it's this resistor ballast or a connection to it that's
bolted
> > > to the firewall more to the center than this one:
> > > http://www.----------.com/SteveCoilResistor.jpg
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:--------------------
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > that is exactly what is happening
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c9259b0hkd@enews1.newsguy.com...
> That vintage shoud have a ballast resistor. The issuie here is simply that
> you have no power to the coil when the key is in the "ON" position, opnly
> when it is in the "start" position. YTou need a wiring diagram showing the
> starting circuit for that MY & powertrain. Then you need to replace the
> missing wiring.
>
> Did this friggin' thing run before you bought it? If so, what happened
> afterwqards? In other words, what repairs or mods were done that caused
this
> problem?
>
>
> "KC" <kcmidget@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:ak0tc.23252$0X2.690619@twister.tampabay.rr.co m...
> > i was told i did not have a balist resistor i was told i have a
resistive
> > wire ?
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:40B3FFE8.A752AEE3@***.net...
> > > Then it's this resistor ballast or a connection to it that's
bolted
> > > to the firewall more to the center than this one:
> > > http://www.----------.com/SteveCoilResistor.jpg
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:--------------------
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > that is exactly what is happening
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
05-26-2004, 10:15 AM
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
not pass much power or load.
You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
or the coil can cook.
Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
side) 4 volts or so.
The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
the coil.
When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
hooks in.
Mike
KC wrote:
>
> that is exactly what is happening
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > You forgot to answer the question....
> >
> > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > key goes to 'run' or not?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > in the on position.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> > > stay
> > > > > started
> > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > thank you so much
> > > >
> >
ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
not pass much power or load.
You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
or the coil can cook.
Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
side) 4 volts or so.
The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
the coil.
When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
hooks in.
Mike
KC wrote:
>
> that is exactly what is happening
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > You forgot to answer the question....
> >
> > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > key goes to 'run' or not?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > in the on position.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> > > stay
> > > > > started
> > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > thank you so much
> > > >
> >
05-26-2004, 10:15 AM
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
not pass much power or load.
You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
or the coil can cook.
Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
side) 4 volts or so.
The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
the coil.
When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
hooks in.
Mike
KC wrote:
>
> that is exactly what is happening
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > You forgot to answer the question....
> >
> > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > key goes to 'run' or not?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > in the on position.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> > > stay
> > > > > started
> > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > thank you so much
> > > >
> >
ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
not pass much power or load.
You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
or the coil can cook.
Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
side) 4 volts or so.
The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
the coil.
When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
hooks in.
Mike
KC wrote:
>
> that is exactly what is happening
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > You forgot to answer the question....
> >
> > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > key goes to 'run' or not?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > in the on position.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> > > stay
> > > > > started
> > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > thank you so much
> > > >
> >
05-26-2004, 10:15 AM
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
not pass much power or load.
You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
or the coil can cook.
Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
side) 4 volts or so.
The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
the coil.
When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
hooks in.
Mike
KC wrote:
>
> that is exactly what is happening
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > You forgot to answer the question....
> >
> > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > key goes to 'run' or not?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > in the on position.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> > > stay
> > > > > started
> > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > thank you so much
> > > >
> >
ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
not pass much power or load.
You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
or the coil can cook.
Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
side) 4 volts or so.
The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
the coil.
When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
hooks in.
Mike
KC wrote:
>
> that is exactly what is happening
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > You forgot to answer the question....
> >
> > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > key goes to 'run' or not?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > in the on position.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> > > stay
> > > > > started
> > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > thank you so much
> > > >
> >
05-26-2004, 10:15 AM
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
not pass much power or load.
You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
or the coil can cook.
Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
side) 4 volts or so.
The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
the coil.
When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
hooks in.
Mike
KC wrote:
>
> that is exactly what is happening
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > You forgot to answer the question....
> >
> > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > key goes to 'run' or not?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > in the on position.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> > > stay
> > > > > started
> > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > thank you so much
> > > >
> >
ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
not pass much power or load.
You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
or the coil can cook.
Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
side) 4 volts or so.
The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
the coil.
When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
hooks in.
Mike
KC wrote:
>
> that is exactly what is happening
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > You forgot to answer the question....
> >
> > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > key goes to 'run' or not?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > in the on position.
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> > > stay
> > > > > started
> > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > thank you so much
> > > >
> >
05-26-2004, 02:48 PM
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
coil power line killing the run power.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > > > stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >
plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
coil power line killing the run power.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > > > stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >
05-26-2004, 02:48 PM
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
coil power line killing the run power.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > > > stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >
plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
coil power line killing the run power.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > > > stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >
05-26-2004, 02:48 PM
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
coil power line killing the run power.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > > > stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >
plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
coil power line killing the run power.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > > > stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >
