Mike Romain

One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
coil power line killing the run power.

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > > > stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >

cj573cj5

You do (should) have a resister wire instead of a ballast resister on
a '73. It is shown on your wiring diagram. Turn your key to the
"run" position (where it would be driving down the road)and check
voltage from your "+" on your coil to ground. It should be in the 8
volt area. If no voltage is present then you should look at things up
stream of this supplying resistor wire like your ignition switch. Are
there any other wires on your "+" coil terminal? I got into one that
had the "+" for a tach, the "+" for an electric fuel pump, and the "+"
for the electric choke anchored to it. Not only does this drain away
some voltage it also only gives 8 volts to things that want 12 volts.
As Mike kind of said you could buy a ballast resistor and run a hot
wire with it in series just to see if it would run. This could also
point you up the harness to the ignition switch. Good luck!!

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40B4A666.691AFC11@sympatico.ca>...
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >

cj573cj5

You do (should) have a resister wire instead of a ballast resister on
a '73. It is shown on your wiring diagram. Turn your key to the
"run" position (where it would be driving down the road)and check
voltage from your "+" on your coil to ground. It should be in the 8
volt area. If no voltage is present then you should look at things up
stream of this supplying resistor wire like your ignition switch. Are
there any other wires on your "+" coil terminal? I got into one that
had the "+" for a tach, the "+" for an electric fuel pump, and the "+"
for the electric choke anchored to it. Not only does this drain away
some voltage it also only gives 8 volts to things that want 12 volts.
As Mike kind of said you could buy a ballast resistor and run a hot
wire with it in series just to see if it would run. This could also
point you up the harness to the ignition switch. Good luck!!

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40B4A666.691AFC11@sympatico.ca>...
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >

cj573cj5

You do (should) have a resister wire instead of a ballast resister on
a '73. It is shown on your wiring diagram. Turn your key to the
"run" position (where it would be driving down the road)and check
voltage from your "+" on your coil to ground. It should be in the 8
volt area. If no voltage is present then you should look at things up
stream of this supplying resistor wire like your ignition switch. Are
there any other wires on your "+" coil terminal? I got into one that
had the "+" for a tach, the "+" for an electric fuel pump, and the "+"
for the electric choke anchored to it. Not only does this drain away
some voltage it also only gives 8 volts to things that want 12 volts.
As Mike kind of said you could buy a ballast resistor and run a hot
wire with it in series just to see if it would run. This could also
point you up the harness to the ignition switch. Good luck!!

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40B4A666.691AFC11@sympatico.ca>...
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >

cj573cj5

You do (should) have a resister wire instead of a ballast resister on
a '73. It is shown on your wiring diagram. Turn your key to the
"run" position (where it would be driving down the road)and check
voltage from your "+" on your coil to ground. It should be in the 8
volt area. If no voltage is present then you should look at things up
stream of this supplying resistor wire like your ignition switch. Are
there any other wires on your "+" coil terminal? I got into one that
had the "+" for a tach, the "+" for an electric fuel pump, and the "+"
for the electric choke anchored to it. Not only does this drain away
some voltage it also only gives 8 volts to things that want 12 volts.
As Mike kind of said you could buy a ballast resistor and run a hot
wire with it in series just to see if it would run. This could also
point you up the harness to the ignition switch. Good luck!!

Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40B4A666.691AFC11@sympatico.ca>...
> That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
>
> If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> not pass much power or load.
>
> You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> or the coil can cook.
>
> Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> side) 4 volts or so.
>
> The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
>
> When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> the coil.
>
> When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> hooks in.
>
> Mike
>
> KC wrote:
> >
> > that is exactly what is happening
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > >
> > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > KC wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> out
> > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> usually
> > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> wont
> stay
> > > > > > started
> > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > >
> > >

Mike Romain

You can run straight 12 volts to the coil for testing purposes.

I just noticed this thing has an external regulator, if that isn't wired
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.

That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.

Mike

cj573cj5 wrote:
>
> You do (should) have a resister wire instead of a ballast resister on
> a '73. It is shown on your wiring diagram. Turn your key to the
> "run" position (where it would be driving down the road)and check
> voltage from your "+" on your coil to ground. It should be in the 8
> volt area. If no voltage is present then you should look at things up
> stream of this supplying resistor wire like your ignition switch. Are
> there any other wires on your "+" coil terminal? I got into one that
> had the "+" for a tach, the "+" for an electric fuel pump, and the "+"
> for the electric choke anchored to it. Not only does this drain away
> some voltage it also only gives 8 volts to things that want 12 volts.
> As Mike kind of said you could buy a ballast resistor and run a hot
> wire with it in series just to see if it would run. This could also
> point you up the harness to the ignition switch. Good luck!!
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40B4A666.691AFC11@sympatico.ca>...
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >

Mike Romain

You can run straight 12 volts to the coil for testing purposes.

I just noticed this thing has an external regulator, if that isn't wired
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.

That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.

Mike

cj573cj5 wrote:
>
> You do (should) have a resister wire instead of a ballast resister on
> a '73. It is shown on your wiring diagram. Turn your key to the
> "run" position (where it would be driving down the road)and check
> voltage from your "+" on your coil to ground. It should be in the 8
> volt area. If no voltage is present then you should look at things up
> stream of this supplying resistor wire like your ignition switch. Are
> there any other wires on your "+" coil terminal? I got into one that
> had the "+" for a tach, the "+" for an electric fuel pump, and the "+"
> for the electric choke anchored to it. Not only does this drain away
> some voltage it also only gives 8 volts to things that want 12 volts.
> As Mike kind of said you could buy a ballast resistor and run a hot
> wire with it in series just to see if it would run. This could also
> point you up the harness to the ignition switch. Good luck!!
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40B4A666.691AFC11@sympatico.ca>...
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >

Mike Romain

You can run straight 12 volts to the coil for testing purposes.

I just noticed this thing has an external regulator, if that isn't wired
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.

That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.

Mike

cj573cj5 wrote:
>
> You do (should) have a resister wire instead of a ballast resister on
> a '73. It is shown on your wiring diagram. Turn your key to the
> "run" position (where it would be driving down the road)and check
> voltage from your "+" on your coil to ground. It should be in the 8
> volt area. If no voltage is present then you should look at things up
> stream of this supplying resistor wire like your ignition switch. Are
> there any other wires on your "+" coil terminal? I got into one that
> had the "+" for a tach, the "+" for an electric fuel pump, and the "+"
> for the electric choke anchored to it. Not only does this drain away
> some voltage it also only gives 8 volts to things that want 12 volts.
> As Mike kind of said you could buy a ballast resistor and run a hot
> wire with it in series just to see if it would run. This could also
> point you up the harness to the ignition switch. Good luck!!
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40B4A666.691AFC11@sympatico.ca>...
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >

Mike Romain

You can run straight 12 volts to the coil for testing purposes.

I just noticed this thing has an external regulator, if that isn't wired
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.

That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.

Mike

cj573cj5 wrote:
>
> You do (should) have a resister wire instead of a ballast resister on
> a '73. It is shown on your wiring diagram. Turn your key to the
> "run" position (where it would be driving down the road)and check
> voltage from your "+" on your coil to ground. It should be in the 8
> volt area. If no voltage is present then you should look at things up
> stream of this supplying resistor wire like your ignition switch. Are
> there any other wires on your "+" coil terminal? I got into one that
> had the "+" for a tach, the "+" for an electric fuel pump, and the "+"
> for the electric choke anchored to it. Not only does this drain away
> some voltage it also only gives 8 volts to things that want 12 volts.
> As Mike kind of said you could buy a ballast resistor and run a hot
> wire with it in series just to see if it would run. This could also
> point you up the harness to the ignition switch. Good luck!!
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<40B4A666.691AFC11@sympatico.ca>...
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > wont
> > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >

Mike Romain

I just noticed this thing has an external regulator, if that isn't wired
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.

That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
> plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
> the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
> coil power line killing the run power.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > > wont
> > > > > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >