73 cj5
#71
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
I just noticed this thing has an external regulator, if that isn't wired
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.
That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
> plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
> the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
> coil power line killing the run power.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > > wont
> > > > > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.
That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
> plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
> the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
> coil power line killing the run power.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > > wont
> > > > > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >
#72
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
I just noticed this thing has an external regulator, if that isn't wired
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.
That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
> plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
> the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
> coil power line killing the run power.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > > wont
> > > > > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.
That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
> plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
> the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
> coil power line killing the run power.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > > wont
> > > > > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >
#73
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5
I just noticed this thing has an external regulator, if that isn't wired
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.
That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
> plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
> the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
> coil power line killing the run power.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > > wont
> > > > > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >
right it will pull the coil power to ground too.
That's a yellow wire from the starter solenoid to the regulator. It can
be disconnected for testing purposes.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> One more thing, if you have the GM alternator, unplug the plastic 2 wire
> plug and see what happens. Sometimes they can short inside and ground
> the excite wire (small solid core, usually a brown one) that tags the
> coil power line killing the run power.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > That is a failure in the ballast resistor wire or it's circuit or a dead
> > ignition module or a screwed up ignition switch wiring....
> >
> > If you don't have an ignition module, then the ignition switch is next
> > likely, but only 5 volts on the coil power when the key is in run could
> > be an issue all its own. There is a crimp connector where the ballast
> > wire and the wire from the starter solenoid join. They fail over time
> > and you might just have one thread left, enough to tag some volts, but
> > not pass much power or load.
> >
> > You can take a wire and tag the coil positive from the battery direct
> > and see if it runs. If it does, then you need to trace wires. This is
> > fine for test running, but be sure and disconnect the wire when stopped
> > or the coil can cook.
> >
> > Oh, make sure you are checking the correct side of the coil for the
> > power. One side will read 9 volts or so and the other can read (ground
> > side) 4 volts or so.
> >
> > The ignition switch has a direct battery connection through the starter
> > solenoid main battery wire bolt and a fuse link wire.
> >
> > When the starter cranks, the side post from the solenoid sends power to
> > the coil.
> >
> > When in run, the red wire with the white stripe from the switch sends
> > power via a crimped in ballast wire. The ballast wire starts around the
> > brake master cylinder and runs inside the harness loom over close to the
> > coil. The coil end of the ballast wire is where the solenoid start wire
> > hooks in.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > KC wrote:
> > >
> > > that is exactly what is happening
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:40B3CFB8.A3B45187@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You forgot to answer the question....
> > > >
> > > > Does it 'run' as long as the starter is turning and then die when the
> > > > key goes to 'run' or not?
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > KC wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't have one on the fire wall. I do have a resistive wire that Ohms
> > > out
> > > > > at 480 any other ideas? tia
> > > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:40B0FF9F.155F110D@***.net...
> > > > > > Like it's running as long as you have the ignition key turned to
> > > > > > start, like the coil's only being powered by the starter solenoid? See
> > > > > > if your volt meter shows any power at the coil resister ballast,
> > > usually
> > > > > > a white porcelain block bolted to your firewall, while the ignition is
> > > > > > in the on position.
> > > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > > >
> > > > > > KC wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > ok got the electrical part fixed now it turns over and starts just
> > > wont
> > > > > stay
> > > > > > > started
> > > > > > > any suggestions
> > > > > > > thank you so much
> > > > > >
> > > >
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