Lon

Is there a recall or service bulletin on the detent? On some ZJ series
there was a recall to install a far heavier detent on the park, almost
obnoxiously detented.



steve proclaimed:

> Last thought. Wife drove that car that night. Maybe her light or heavy
> touch to PARK is atypical. It could be some slop in the gear shift
> mechanism switch. It's working fine now.
>
> "steve" <idontthinkso@spamnot.com> wrote in message
> news:%kAFf.6989$bU6.6556@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
>
>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>>consistent. The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There
>>was a delay, the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the
>>alternator would cure a bad battery connection as far as the engine run
>>quality goes, could be wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a
>>bad neutral safety switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed
>>bad chrysler door switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the
>>dealer to check them and replace them due to the car locking me out.
>>They went around my diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm,
>>sidestepping the root cause. I went to the parts counter and replaced
>>them myself for next to nothing. Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor
>>for me. -If I have money I prefer to not work on my non-classic cars
>>(then). Now I have to...I'm thinking possible it's more of a computer
>>software glitch or most likely a sensor, but the diagnostics didn't catch
>>anything.
>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>>
>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>
>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>>
>>>>Party time eh!
>>>>
>>>>Mike
>>
>>
>
>

Mike Romain

You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
before it up and dies.

The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
shut it down and used the high amp starter again.

It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
someplace, I go after the connections anyway.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

steve wrote:
>
> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very consistent.
> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a delay,
> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would cure a
> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check them
> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause. I
> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I prefer
> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
> > Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
> >>
> >> Party time eh!
> >>
> >> Mike

Mike Romain

You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
before it up and dies.

The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
shut it down and used the high amp starter again.

It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
someplace, I go after the connections anyway.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

steve wrote:
>
> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very consistent.
> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a delay,
> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would cure a
> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check them
> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause. I
> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I prefer
> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
> > Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
> >>
> >> Party time eh!
> >>
> >> Mike

Mike Romain

You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
before it up and dies.

The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
shut it down and used the high amp starter again.

It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
someplace, I go after the connections anyway.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

steve wrote:
>
> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very consistent.
> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a delay,
> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would cure a
> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check them
> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause. I
> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I prefer
> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
> > Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
> >>
> >> Party time eh!
> >>
> >> Mike

steve

Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
terminals anyway.
Steve

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
> You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
> bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
> before it up and dies.
>
> The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
> work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
> shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>
> It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
> the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
> when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
> someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> steve wrote:
>>
>> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>> consistent.
>> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>> delay,
>> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>> cure a
>> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>> them
>> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>> I
>> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>> prefer
>> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>> > Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> > Mike Romain wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>> >>
>> >> Party time eh!
>> >>
>> >> Mike

steve

Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
terminals anyway.
Steve

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
> You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
> bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
> before it up and dies.
>
> The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
> work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
> shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>
> It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
> the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
> when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
> someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> steve wrote:
>>
>> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>> consistent.
>> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>> delay,
>> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>> cure a
>> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>> them
>> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>> I
>> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>> prefer
>> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>> > Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> > Mike Romain wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>> >>
>> >> Party time eh!
>> >>
>> >> Mike

steve

Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
terminals anyway.
Steve

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
> You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
> bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
> before it up and dies.
>
> The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
> work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
> shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>
> It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
> the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
> when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
> someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> steve wrote:
>>
>> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>> consistent.
>> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>> delay,
>> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>> cure a
>> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>> them
>> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>> I
>> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>> prefer
>> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>> > Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> >
>> > Mike Romain wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>> >>
>> >> Party time eh!
>> >>
>> >> Mike

Mike Romain

The battery cables have two ends, don't forget.

You 'should' be seeing or be able to feel heat at the bad connection.
This is after trying it and finally making it work more so but worth
checking. The arcing can make enough heat sometimes to burn hands if it
is a high amp contact. I would try it and then feel all the ends of the
battery cables. The ground is a sneaky one. If they are all cool, then
I would be cleaning the body ground connection.

After that, then I would be thinking the key switch. Same deal with
heat though. If it is a high amp contact it will make the switch hot to
touch unless.

Mike

steve wrote:
>
> Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
> suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
> told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
> then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
> detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
> terminals anyway.
> Steve
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
> > You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
> > bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
> > before it up and dies.
> >
> > The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
> > work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
> > shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
> >
> > It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
> > the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
> > when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
> > someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > steve wrote:
> >>
> >> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
> >> consistent.
> >> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
> >> delay,
> >> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
> >> cure a
> >> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> >> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> >> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> >> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
> >> them
> >> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> >> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
> >> I
> >> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> >> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
> >> prefer
> >> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> >> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> >> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> >> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
> >> > Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
> >> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >> >
> >> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
> >> >>
> >> >> Party time eh!
> >> >>
> >> >> Mike

Mike Romain

The battery cables have two ends, don't forget.

You 'should' be seeing or be able to feel heat at the bad connection.
This is after trying it and finally making it work more so but worth
checking. The arcing can make enough heat sometimes to burn hands if it
is a high amp contact. I would try it and then feel all the ends of the
battery cables. The ground is a sneaky one. If they are all cool, then
I would be cleaning the body ground connection.

After that, then I would be thinking the key switch. Same deal with
heat though. If it is a high amp contact it will make the switch hot to
touch unless.

Mike

steve wrote:
>
> Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
> suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
> told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
> then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
> detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
> terminals anyway.
> Steve
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
> > You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
> > bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
> > before it up and dies.
> >
> > The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
> > work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
> > shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
> >
> > It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
> > the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
> > when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
> > someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > steve wrote:
> >>
> >> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
> >> consistent.
> >> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
> >> delay,
> >> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
> >> cure a
> >> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> >> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> >> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> >> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
> >> them
> >> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> >> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
> >> I
> >> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> >> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
> >> prefer
> >> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> >> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> >> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> >> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
> >> > Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
> >> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >> >
> >> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
> >> >>
> >> >> Party time eh!
> >> >>
> >> >> Mike

Mike Romain

The battery cables have two ends, don't forget.

You 'should' be seeing or be able to feel heat at the bad connection.
This is after trying it and finally making it work more so but worth
checking. The arcing can make enough heat sometimes to burn hands if it
is a high amp contact. I would try it and then feel all the ends of the
battery cables. The ground is a sneaky one. If they are all cool, then
I would be cleaning the body ground connection.

After that, then I would be thinking the key switch. Same deal with
heat though. If it is a high amp contact it will make the switch hot to
touch unless.

Mike

steve wrote:
>
> Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
> suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
> told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
> then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
> detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
> terminals anyway.
> Steve
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
> > You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
> > bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
> > before it up and dies.
> >
> > The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
> > work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
> > shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
> >
> > It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
> > the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
> > when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
> > someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > steve wrote:
> >>
> >> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
> >> consistent.
> >> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
> >> delay,
> >> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
> >> cure a
> >> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> >> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> >> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> >> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
> >> them
> >> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> >> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
> >> I
> >> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> >> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
> >> prefer
> >> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> >> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> >> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> >> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
> >> > Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
> >> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >> >
> >> > Mike Romain wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
> >> >>
> >> >> Party time eh!
> >> >>
> >> >> Mike