2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
If you have a FSM, check the starter relay to see if it is being
energized. If not, you'll be looking backward thru the start contacts
in the ignition switch which pass +12 to the relay and thru the
transmission interlock switch for the ground.
You can take a relay apart and make an emergency start contact with it,
but your wiring may not be the same as mine, so check a FSM.
If the dealer tells you the ignition switch "never goes bad" ignore him.
It really isn't hard to change, but you'll pay a lot for labor if you
don't have the Torx wrenches noted in the FSM and the mechanical skills.
I just took the covers off mine and bought a cheap voltmeter to check
the switch and stuff when mine got a hair and refused to start.
I did have one red herring, gently smacking the starter solenoid did
make it start...however the real culprit was burnt contacts in the
ignition switch.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> The battery cables have two ends, don't forget.
>
> You 'should' be seeing or be able to feel heat at the bad connection.
> This is after trying it and finally making it work more so but worth
> checking. The arcing can make enough heat sometimes to burn hands if it
> is a high amp contact. I would try it and then feel all the ends of the
> battery cables. The ground is a sneaky one. If they are all cool, then
> I would be cleaning the body ground connection.
>
> After that, then I would be thinking the key switch. Same deal with
> heat though. If it is a high amp contact it will make the switch hot to
> touch unless.
>
> Mike
>
> steve wrote:
>
>>Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
>>suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
>>told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
>>then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
>>detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
>>terminals anyway.
>>Steve
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
>>>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
>>>before it up and dies.
>>>
>>>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
>>>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
>>>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>>>
>>>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
>>>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
>>>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
>>>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>steve wrote:
>>>
>>>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>>>>consistent.
>>>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>>>>delay,
>>>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>>>>cure a
>>>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>>>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>>>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>>>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>>>>them
>>>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>>>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>>>>I
>>>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>>>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>>>>prefer
>>>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>>>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>>>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>>>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>>>>
>>>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Party time eh!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Mike
energized. If not, you'll be looking backward thru the start contacts
in the ignition switch which pass +12 to the relay and thru the
transmission interlock switch for the ground.
You can take a relay apart and make an emergency start contact with it,
but your wiring may not be the same as mine, so check a FSM.
If the dealer tells you the ignition switch "never goes bad" ignore him.
It really isn't hard to change, but you'll pay a lot for labor if you
don't have the Torx wrenches noted in the FSM and the mechanical skills.
I just took the covers off mine and bought a cheap voltmeter to check
the switch and stuff when mine got a hair and refused to start.
I did have one red herring, gently smacking the starter solenoid did
make it start...however the real culprit was burnt contacts in the
ignition switch.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> The battery cables have two ends, don't forget.
>
> You 'should' be seeing or be able to feel heat at the bad connection.
> This is after trying it and finally making it work more so but worth
> checking. The arcing can make enough heat sometimes to burn hands if it
> is a high amp contact. I would try it and then feel all the ends of the
> battery cables. The ground is a sneaky one. If they are all cool, then
> I would be cleaning the body ground connection.
>
> After that, then I would be thinking the key switch. Same deal with
> heat though. If it is a high amp contact it will make the switch hot to
> touch unless.
>
> Mike
>
> steve wrote:
>
>>Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
>>suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
>>told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
>>then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
>>detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
>>terminals anyway.
>>Steve
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
>>>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
>>>before it up and dies.
>>>
>>>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
>>>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
>>>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>>>
>>>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
>>>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
>>>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
>>>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>steve wrote:
>>>
>>>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>>>>consistent.
>>>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>>>>delay,
>>>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>>>>cure a
>>>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>>>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>>>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>>>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>>>>them
>>>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>>>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>>>>I
>>>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>>>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>>>>prefer
>>>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>>>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>>>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>>>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>>>>
>>>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Party time eh!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Mike
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
If you have a FSM, check the starter relay to see if it is being
energized. If not, you'll be looking backward thru the start contacts
in the ignition switch which pass +12 to the relay and thru the
transmission interlock switch for the ground.
You can take a relay apart and make an emergency start contact with it,
but your wiring may not be the same as mine, so check a FSM.
If the dealer tells you the ignition switch "never goes bad" ignore him.
It really isn't hard to change, but you'll pay a lot for labor if you
don't have the Torx wrenches noted in the FSM and the mechanical skills.
I just took the covers off mine and bought a cheap voltmeter to check
the switch and stuff when mine got a hair and refused to start.
I did have one red herring, gently smacking the starter solenoid did
make it start...however the real culprit was burnt contacts in the
ignition switch.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> The battery cables have two ends, don't forget.
>
> You 'should' be seeing or be able to feel heat at the bad connection.
> This is after trying it and finally making it work more so but worth
> checking. The arcing can make enough heat sometimes to burn hands if it
> is a high amp contact. I would try it and then feel all the ends of the
> battery cables. The ground is a sneaky one. If they are all cool, then
> I would be cleaning the body ground connection.
>
> After that, then I would be thinking the key switch. Same deal with
> heat though. If it is a high amp contact it will make the switch hot to
> touch unless.
>
> Mike
>
> steve wrote:
>
>>Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
>>suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
>>told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
>>then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
>>detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
>>terminals anyway.
>>Steve
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
>>>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
>>>before it up and dies.
>>>
>>>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
>>>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
>>>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>>>
>>>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
>>>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
>>>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
>>>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>steve wrote:
>>>
>>>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>>>>consistent.
>>>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>>>>delay,
>>>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>>>>cure a
>>>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>>>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>>>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>>>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>>>>them
>>>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>>>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>>>>I
>>>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>>>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>>>>prefer
>>>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>>>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>>>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>>>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>>>>
>>>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Party time eh!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Mike
energized. If not, you'll be looking backward thru the start contacts
in the ignition switch which pass +12 to the relay and thru the
transmission interlock switch for the ground.
You can take a relay apart and make an emergency start contact with it,
but your wiring may not be the same as mine, so check a FSM.
If the dealer tells you the ignition switch "never goes bad" ignore him.
It really isn't hard to change, but you'll pay a lot for labor if you
don't have the Torx wrenches noted in the FSM and the mechanical skills.
I just took the covers off mine and bought a cheap voltmeter to check
the switch and stuff when mine got a hair and refused to start.
I did have one red herring, gently smacking the starter solenoid did
make it start...however the real culprit was burnt contacts in the
ignition switch.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> The battery cables have two ends, don't forget.
>
> You 'should' be seeing or be able to feel heat at the bad connection.
> This is after trying it and finally making it work more so but worth
> checking. The arcing can make enough heat sometimes to burn hands if it
> is a high amp contact. I would try it and then feel all the ends of the
> battery cables. The ground is a sneaky one. If they are all cool, then
> I would be cleaning the body ground connection.
>
> After that, then I would be thinking the key switch. Same deal with
> heat though. If it is a high amp contact it will make the switch hot to
> touch unless.
>
> Mike
>
> steve wrote:
>
>>Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
>>suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
>>told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
>>then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
>>detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
>>terminals anyway.
>>Steve
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
>>>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
>>>before it up and dies.
>>>
>>>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
>>>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
>>>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>>>
>>>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
>>>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
>>>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
>>>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>steve wrote:
>>>
>>>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>>>>consistent.
>>>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>>>>delay,
>>>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>>>>cure a
>>>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>>>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>>>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>>>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>>>>them
>>>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>>>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>>>>I
>>>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>>>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>>>>prefer
>>>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>>>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>>>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>>>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>>>>
>>>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Party time eh!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Mike
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
If you have a FSM, check the starter relay to see if it is being
energized. If not, you'll be looking backward thru the start contacts
in the ignition switch which pass +12 to the relay and thru the
transmission interlock switch for the ground.
You can take a relay apart and make an emergency start contact with it,
but your wiring may not be the same as mine, so check a FSM.
If the dealer tells you the ignition switch "never goes bad" ignore him.
It really isn't hard to change, but you'll pay a lot for labor if you
don't have the Torx wrenches noted in the FSM and the mechanical skills.
I just took the covers off mine and bought a cheap voltmeter to check
the switch and stuff when mine got a hair and refused to start.
I did have one red herring, gently smacking the starter solenoid did
make it start...however the real culprit was burnt contacts in the
ignition switch.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> The battery cables have two ends, don't forget.
>
> You 'should' be seeing or be able to feel heat at the bad connection.
> This is after trying it and finally making it work more so but worth
> checking. The arcing can make enough heat sometimes to burn hands if it
> is a high amp contact. I would try it and then feel all the ends of the
> battery cables. The ground is a sneaky one. If they are all cool, then
> I would be cleaning the body ground connection.
>
> After that, then I would be thinking the key switch. Same deal with
> heat though. If it is a high amp contact it will make the switch hot to
> touch unless.
>
> Mike
>
> steve wrote:
>
>>Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
>>suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
>>told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
>>then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
>>detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
>>terminals anyway.
>>Steve
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
>>>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
>>>before it up and dies.
>>>
>>>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
>>>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
>>>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>>>
>>>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
>>>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
>>>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
>>>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>steve wrote:
>>>
>>>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>>>>consistent.
>>>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>>>>delay,
>>>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>>>>cure a
>>>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>>>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>>>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>>>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>>>>them
>>>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>>>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>>>>I
>>>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>>>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>>>>prefer
>>>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>>>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>>>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>>>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>>>>
>>>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Party time eh!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Mike
energized. If not, you'll be looking backward thru the start contacts
in the ignition switch which pass +12 to the relay and thru the
transmission interlock switch for the ground.
You can take a relay apart and make an emergency start contact with it,
but your wiring may not be the same as mine, so check a FSM.
If the dealer tells you the ignition switch "never goes bad" ignore him.
It really isn't hard to change, but you'll pay a lot for labor if you
don't have the Torx wrenches noted in the FSM and the mechanical skills.
I just took the covers off mine and bought a cheap voltmeter to check
the switch and stuff when mine got a hair and refused to start.
I did have one red herring, gently smacking the starter solenoid did
make it start...however the real culprit was burnt contacts in the
ignition switch.
Mike Romain proclaimed:
> The battery cables have two ends, don't forget.
>
> You 'should' be seeing or be able to feel heat at the bad connection.
> This is after trying it and finally making it work more so but worth
> checking. The arcing can make enough heat sometimes to burn hands if it
> is a high amp contact. I would try it and then feel all the ends of the
> battery cables. The ground is a sneaky one. If they are all cool, then
> I would be cleaning the body ground connection.
>
> After that, then I would be thinking the key switch. Same deal with
> heat though. If it is a high amp contact it will make the switch hot to
> touch unless.
>
> Mike
>
> steve wrote:
>
>>Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
>>suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
>>told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
>>then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
>>detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
>>terminals anyway.
>>Steve
>>
>>"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
>>
>>>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
>>>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
>>>before it up and dies.
>>>
>>>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
>>>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
>>>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>>>
>>>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
>>>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
>>>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
>>>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>steve wrote:
>>>
>>>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>>>>consistent.
>>>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>>>>delay,
>>>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>>>>cure a
>>>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>>>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>>>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>>>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>>>>them
>>>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>>>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>>>>I
>>>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>>>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>>>>prefer
>>>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>>>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>>>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>>>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>>>>
>>>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Party time eh!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Mike
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
The alternator requires a battery to be present to generate. No
battery, no power.
steve wrote:
> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very consistent.
> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a delay,
> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would cure a
> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check them
> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause. I
> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I prefer
> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>
>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>
>>>Party time eh!
>>>
>>>Mike
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
The alternator requires a battery to be present to generate. No
battery, no power.
steve wrote:
> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very consistent.
> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a delay,
> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would cure a
> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check them
> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause. I
> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I prefer
> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>
>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>
>>>Party time eh!
>>>
>>>Mike
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
The alternator requires a battery to be present to generate. No
battery, no power.
steve wrote:
> That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very consistent.
> The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a delay,
> the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would cure a
> bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check them
> and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause. I
> went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I prefer
> to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>
>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>
>>>Party time eh!
>>>
>>>Mike
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
The shifter interlock might explain the no-crank symptom but it doesn't
have anything to do with the rough running and stalling.
Dirty battery terminals can look normal from the outside but still have
high resistance where it matters.
steve wrote:
> Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
> suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
> told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
> then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
> detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
> terminals anyway.
> Steve
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
>
>>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
>>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
>>before it up and dies.
>>
>>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
>>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
>>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>>
>>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
>>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
>>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
>>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>steve wrote:
>>
>>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>>>consistent.
>>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>>>delay,
>>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>>>cure a
>>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>>>them
>>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>>>I
>>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>>>prefer
>>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>>>
>>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>>>
>>>>>Party time eh!
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
The shifter interlock might explain the no-crank symptom but it doesn't
have anything to do with the rough running and stalling.
Dirty battery terminals can look normal from the outside but still have
high resistance where it matters.
steve wrote:
> Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
> suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
> told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
> then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
> detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
> terminals anyway.
> Steve
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
>
>>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
>>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
>>before it up and dies.
>>
>>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
>>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
>>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>>
>>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
>>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
>>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
>>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>steve wrote:
>>
>>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>>>consistent.
>>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>>>delay,
>>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>>>cure a
>>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>>>them
>>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>>>I
>>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>>>prefer
>>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>>>
>>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>>>
>>>>>Party time eh!
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
The shifter interlock might explain the no-crank symptom but it doesn't
have anything to do with the rough running and stalling.
Dirty battery terminals can look normal from the outside but still have
high resistance where it matters.
steve wrote:
> Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
> suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
> told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
> then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
> detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
> terminals anyway.
> Steve
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
>
>>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
>>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
>>before it up and dies.
>>
>>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
>>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
>>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
>>
>>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
>>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
>>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
>>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>steve wrote:
>>
>>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
>>>consistent.
>>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
>>>delay,
>>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
>>>cure a
>>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
>>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
>>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
>>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
>>>them
>>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
>>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
>>>I
>>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
>>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
>>>prefer
>>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
>>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
>>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
>>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
>>>
>>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
>>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
>>>>>
>>>>>Party time eh!
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2004 V8 Grand cherokee stalls, starter delay.
His gauges pin out too. The 'really' implies a loss of body ground so
the system is stealing the ground through the instruments. This will
burn out things pretty fast too. It will/can smoke out a stereo if the
ground feeds through there.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> The shifter interlock might explain the no-crank symptom but it doesn't
> have anything to do with the rough running and stalling.
>
> Dirty battery terminals can look normal from the outside but still have
> high resistance where it matters.
>
> steve wrote:
> > Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
> > suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
> > told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
> > then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
> > detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
> > terminals anyway.
> > Steve
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
> >
> >>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
> >>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
> >>before it up and dies.
> >>
> >>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
> >>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
> >>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
> >>
> >>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
> >>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
> >>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
> >>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
> >>
> >>Mike
> >>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>
> >>steve wrote:
> >>
> >>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
> >>>consistent.
> >>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
> >>>delay,
> >>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
> >>>cure a
> >>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> >>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> >>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> >>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
> >>>them
> >>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> >>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
> >>>I
> >>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> >>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
> >>>prefer
> >>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> >>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> >>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> >>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
> >>>
> >>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
> >>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Party time eh!
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >
> >
> >
the system is stealing the ground through the instruments. This will
burn out things pretty fast too. It will/can smoke out a stereo if the
ground feeds through there.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> The shifter interlock might explain the no-crank symptom but it doesn't
> have anything to do with the rough running and stalling.
>
> Dirty battery terminals can look normal from the outside but still have
> high resistance where it matters.
>
> steve wrote:
> > Well it just happened again. The battery terminals are very tight. I
> > suppose I will clean them, they don't even look dirty, but we'll see. I
> > told the wife to do what I did, turn on the key, move gearshift to neutral
> > then park and try again. That has always worked so far. I bet it's a
> > detent switch os similar. I need to search for recalls, and will clean
> > terminals anyway.
> > Steve
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:43EB5223.520C1333@sympatico.ca...
> >
> >>You are still describing a bad connection on the main power. Running
> >>bad is like when you run the battery dead and the engine runs like crap
> >>before it up and dies.
> >>
> >>The arcs that happen at the bad connection can weld a contact that will
> >>work for a little while sometimes. That is likely what happens when you
> >>shut it down and used the high amp starter again.
> >>
> >>It might stay stable for a bit, but if it happens again I would clean
> >>the battery terminals. It could up and let you down anytime. Well,
> >>when the exact same thing happens to mine, I don't wait to get stuck
> >>someplace, I go after the connections anyway.
> >>
> >>Mike
> >>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> >>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>
> >>steve wrote:
> >>
> >>>That doesn't seem too logical, well maybe a little. It was very
> >>>consistent.
> >>>The delay of the starter to run, and the freaky guages. There was a
> >>>delay,
> >>>the engine did start but ran bad. I would think the alternator would
> >>>cure a
> >>>bad battery connection as far as the engine run quality goes, could be
> >>>wrong. It was in park, locked. I could imagine a bad neutral safety
> >>>switch, or intermittent I suppose. I have diagnosed bad chrysler door
> >>>switches myself on a previous car, and instructed the dealer to check
> >>>them
> >>>and replace them due to the car locking me out. They went around my
> >>>diagnosis and tried to reprogram my alarm, sidestepping the root cause.
> >>>I
> >>>went to the parts counter and replaced them myself for next to nothing.
> >>>Problem fixed. And about 5 minutes labor for me. -If I have money I
> >>>prefer
> >>>to not work on my non-classic cars (then). Now I have to...I'm thinking
> >>>possible it's more of a computer software glitch or most likely a sensor,
> >>>but the diagnostics didn't catch anything.
> >>>"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >>>news:43E6B7AE.6D097C61@***.net...
> >>>
> >>>> Damn it! The Stealers intercepted for another touch.
> >>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >>>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>>Nope, haven't owned many automatics. Makes sense now.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Party time eh!
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Mike
> >
> >
> >