would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
12-30-2003, 10:43 PM
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
Simon Juncal wrote:
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> > operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> > wizard.
>
> LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
> next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
> seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
> the fast idle setting.
Mine used to work like that in the fall and summer. It was plain crap
in the real cold.
>
> > That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> > humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> > at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> > Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> > term 'heat' so loosely....
>
> I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
> smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
> been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
> in the great white north.
>
> --
Yup, you have the same heater.
You can fix it's case easy! A blower motor from a full sized 73 Blazer
4x4, 350, auto with AC fits right in. The hole under the battery needs
to be cut bigger, but the squirrel cage fits right on.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/body/heater.html
Some place in the US sells two versions of the motor for some reason.
Labeled wrong is my thought. One is longer shafted. You want the short
one if they have 2 choices.
It is a wicked upgrade! Literally low is better than the stock high was
for volume. You can defrost all the windows, even in the real cold.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> > operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> > wizard.
>
> LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
> next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
> seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
> the fast idle setting.
Mine used to work like that in the fall and summer. It was plain crap
in the real cold.
>
> > That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> > humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> > at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> > Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> > term 'heat' so loosely....
>
> I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
> smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
> been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
> in the great white north.
>
> --
Yup, you have the same heater.
You can fix it's case easy! A blower motor from a full sized 73 Blazer
4x4, 350, auto with AC fits right in. The hole under the battery needs
to be cut bigger, but the squirrel cage fits right on.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/body/heater.html
Some place in the US sells two versions of the motor for some reason.
Labeled wrong is my thought. One is longer shafted. You want the short
one if they have 2 choices.
It is a wicked upgrade! Literally low is better than the stock high was
for volume. You can defrost all the windows, even in the real cold.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
12-30-2003, 10:43 PM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
Simon Juncal wrote:
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> > operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> > wizard.
>
> LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
> next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
> seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
> the fast idle setting.
Mine used to work like that in the fall and summer. It was plain crap
in the real cold.
>
> > That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> > humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> > at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> > Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> > term 'heat' so loosely....
>
> I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
> smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
> been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
> in the great white north.
>
> --
Yup, you have the same heater.
You can fix it's case easy! A blower motor from a full sized 73 Blazer
4x4, 350, auto with AC fits right in. The hole under the battery needs
to be cut bigger, but the squirrel cage fits right on.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/body/heater.html
Some place in the US sells two versions of the motor for some reason.
Labeled wrong is my thought. One is longer shafted. You want the short
one if they have 2 choices.
It is a wicked upgrade! Literally low is better than the stock high was
for volume. You can defrost all the windows, even in the real cold.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> > operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> > wizard.
>
> LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
> next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
> seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
> the fast idle setting.
Mine used to work like that in the fall and summer. It was plain crap
in the real cold.
>
> > That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> > humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> > at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> > Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> > term 'heat' so loosely....
>
> I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
> smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
> been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
> in the great white north.
>
> --
Yup, you have the same heater.
You can fix it's case easy! A blower motor from a full sized 73 Blazer
4x4, 350, auto with AC fits right in. The hole under the battery needs
to be cut bigger, but the squirrel cage fits right on.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/body/heater.html
Some place in the US sells two versions of the motor for some reason.
Labeled wrong is my thought. One is longer shafted. You want the short
one if they have 2 choices.
It is a wicked upgrade! Literally low is better than the stock high was
for volume. You can defrost all the windows, even in the real cold.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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