would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
12-29-2003, 03:28 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
I concur.
It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
>operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
>wizard.
>
>That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
>humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
>at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
>Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
>term 'heat' so loosely....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Simon Juncal wrote:
>>
>> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
>> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
>> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
>> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
>> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
>>
>> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
>> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
>> too rich?
>>
>> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
>> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
>> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
>>
>> --
>> Simon
>> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
>operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
>wizard.
>
>That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
>humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
>at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
>Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
>term 'heat' so loosely....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Simon Juncal wrote:
>>
>> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
>> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
>> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
>> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
>> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
>>
>> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
>> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
>> too rich?
>>
>> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
>> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
>> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
>>
>> --
>> Simon
>> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
12-29-2003, 03:28 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
I concur.
It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
>operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
>wizard.
>
>That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
>humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
>at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
>Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
>term 'heat' so loosely....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Simon Juncal wrote:
>>
>> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
>> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
>> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
>> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
>> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
>>
>> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
>> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
>> too rich?
>>
>> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
>> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
>> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
>>
>> --
>> Simon
>> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
>operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
>wizard.
>
>That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
>humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
>at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
>Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
>term 'heat' so loosely....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Simon Juncal wrote:
>>
>> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
>> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
>> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
>> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
>> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
>>
>> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
>> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
>> too rich?
>>
>> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
>> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
>> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
>>
>> --
>> Simon
>> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
12-29-2003, 03:28 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
I concur.
It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
>operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
>wizard.
>
>That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
>humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
>at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
>Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
>term 'heat' so loosely....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Simon Juncal wrote:
>>
>> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
>> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
>> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
>> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
>> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
>>
>> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
>> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
>> too rich?
>>
>> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
>> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
>> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
>>
>> --
>> Simon
>> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
>operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
>wizard.
>
>That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
>humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
>at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
>Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
>term 'heat' so loosely....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>Simon Juncal wrote:
>>
>> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
>> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
>> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
>> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
>> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
>>
>> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
>> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
>> too rich?
>>
>> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
>> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
>> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
>>
>> --
>> Simon
>> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
12-29-2003, 05:09 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
I do like that sol vac trick. I have a manual choke and need to monitor
it for the first 30 seconds or so depending on how cold it is.
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I concur.
> It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
> the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
> I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
> have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
> the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
> installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
>
> On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> >operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> >wizard.
> >
> >That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> >humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> >at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> >Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> >term 'heat' so loosely....
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Simon Juncal wrote:
> >>
> >> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
> >> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
> >> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
> >> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
> >> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
> >>
> >> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
> >> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
> >> too rich?
> >>
> >> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
> >> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
> >> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Simon
> >> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
it for the first 30 seconds or so depending on how cold it is.
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I concur.
> It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
> the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
> I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
> have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
> the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
> installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
>
> On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> >operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> >wizard.
> >
> >That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> >humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> >at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> >Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> >term 'heat' so loosely....
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Simon Juncal wrote:
> >>
> >> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
> >> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
> >> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
> >> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
> >> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
> >>
> >> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
> >> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
> >> too rich?
> >>
> >> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
> >> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
> >> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Simon
> >> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
12-29-2003, 05:09 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
I do like that sol vac trick. I have a manual choke and need to monitor
it for the first 30 seconds or so depending on how cold it is.
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I concur.
> It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
> the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
> I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
> have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
> the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
> installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
>
> On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> >operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> >wizard.
> >
> >That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> >humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> >at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> >Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> >term 'heat' so loosely....
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Simon Juncal wrote:
> >>
> >> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
> >> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
> >> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
> >> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
> >> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
> >>
> >> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
> >> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
> >> too rich?
> >>
> >> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
> >> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
> >> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Simon
> >> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
it for the first 30 seconds or so depending on how cold it is.
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I concur.
> It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
> the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
> I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
> have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
> the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
> installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
>
> On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> >operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> >wizard.
> >
> >That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> >humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> >at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> >Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> >term 'heat' so loosely....
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Simon Juncal wrote:
> >>
> >> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
> >> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
> >> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
> >> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
> >> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
> >>
> >> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
> >> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
> >> too rich?
> >>
> >> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
> >> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
> >> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Simon
> >> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
12-29-2003, 05:09 PM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
I do like that sol vac trick. I have a manual choke and need to monitor
it for the first 30 seconds or so depending on how cold it is.
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I concur.
> It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
> the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
> I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
> have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
> the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
> installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
>
> On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> >operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> >wizard.
> >
> >That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> >humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> >at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> >Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> >term 'heat' so loosely....
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Simon Juncal wrote:
> >>
> >> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
> >> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
> >> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
> >> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
> >> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
> >>
> >> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
> >> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
> >> too rich?
> >>
> >> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
> >> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
> >> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Simon
> >> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
it for the first 30 seconds or so depending on how cold it is.
Mike
Jeepster wrote:
>
> I concur.
> It is was rare that I could get my YJ to start and actually stay on
> the fast idle cam and fast idle until warm, but with the HEI ignition
> I can actually do this about 50% to 60% of the time now. Generally I
> have to pump it twice and feather the gas for about 30 seconds until
> the engine wants to idle, then I flick on that sol-vac switch I
> installed and hold the idle at 1200 rpm until it warms up.
>
> On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:39:58 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> >operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> >wizard.
> >
> >That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> >humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> >at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> >Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> >term 'heat' so loosely....
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >Simon Juncal wrote:
> >>
> >> Okay I know my old exhaust manifold is leaking, and is at it's worst
> >> when cold so I'm wondering if a leaking manifold could fool the O2
> >> sensor and cause the Cater stepper motor to go too rich, until the
> >> engine gets a little warm (at which point the manifold has expanded from
> >> the heat and sealed things up a little better) and then leans out.
> >>
> >> Would an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor cause rich or lean? In other
> >> words would the sensor detect MORE O2 (lean) causing the computer to go
> >> too rich?
> >>
> >> I'm about to get out and check the stepper metering pins to make sure
> >> I've actually got a rich condition (pins all the way forward) and watch
> >> it to see if it's backing down as the engine warms up.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Simon
> >> "I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
12-29-2003, 11:43 PM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
Mike Romain wrote:
> If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> wizard.
LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
the fast idle setting.
> That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
> Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> term 'heat' so loosely....
I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
in the great white north.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> wizard.
LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
the fast idle setting.
> That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
> Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> term 'heat' so loosely....
I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
in the great white north.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
12-29-2003, 11:43 PM
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
Mike Romain wrote:
> If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> wizard.
LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
the fast idle setting.
> That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
> Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> term 'heat' so loosely....
I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
in the great white north.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> wizard.
LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
the fast idle setting.
> That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
> Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> term 'heat' so loosely....
I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
in the great white north.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
12-29-2003, 11:43 PM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
Mike Romain wrote:
> If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> wizard.
LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
the fast idle setting.
> That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
> Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> term 'heat' so loosely....
I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
in the great white north.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
> If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> wizard.
LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
the fast idle setting.
> That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
>
> Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> term 'heat' so loosely....
I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
in the great white north.
--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein
12-30-2003, 10:43 PM
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: would an exhaust leak cause lean or rich sensor reading?
Simon Juncal wrote:
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> > operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> > wizard.
>
> LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
> next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
> seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
> the fast idle setting.
Mine used to work like that in the fall and summer. It was plain crap
in the real cold.
>
> > That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> > humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> > at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> > Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> > term 'heat' so loosely....
>
> I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
> smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
> been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
> in the great white north.
>
> --
Yup, you have the same heater.
You can fix it's case easy! A blower motor from a full sized 73 Blazer
4x4, 350, auto with AC fits right in. The hole under the battery needs
to be cut bigger, but the squirrel cage fits right on.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/body/heater.html
Some place in the US sells two versions of the motor for some reason.
Labeled wrong is my thought. One is longer shafted. You want the short
one if they have 2 choices.
It is a wicked upgrade! Literally low is better than the stock high was
for volume. You can defrost all the windows, even in the real cold.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > If you can get any carb with a timer choke to start and come up to
> > operating temperature without needing input on the gas pedal you are a
> > wizard.
>
> LOL, okay maybe I'll just live with it and do a manual choke mod when
> next winter rolls around. Thing is it runs perfectly smooth for 7 or 8
> seconds and then takes a nose dive to stumbling before slowly getting to
> the fast idle setting.
Mine used to work like that in the fall and summer. It was plain crap
in the real cold.
>
> > That just don't happen unless you are at the 'exact' temperature and
> > humidity as the jerk that designed that **** poor excuse for a choke was
> > at when he figured it was an OK thing to use.
> >
> > Probably the same turkey that designed the CJ 'heater' if I can use the
> > term 'heat' so loosely....
>
> I think I've got the same "heater" in my YJ, crack the window for a
> smoke and and icicles form on the output ducts. Fortunately the winters
> been pretty tame in VA this year, though they're never anything like up
> in the great white north.
>
> --
Yup, you have the same heater.
You can fix it's case easy! A blower motor from a full sized 73 Blazer
4x4, 350, auto with AC fits right in. The hole under the battery needs
to be cut bigger, but the squirrel cage fits right on.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/body/heater.html
Some place in the US sells two versions of the motor for some reason.
Labeled wrong is my thought. One is longer shafted. You want the short
one if they have 2 choices.
It is a wicked upgrade! Literally low is better than the stock high was
for volume. You can defrost all the windows, even in the real cold.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's