L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

If it is a rust inhibitor red iron oxide or zinc paint. I kind of
remember one of our elected officials telling us that, as one of our
water reservoirs leaked and dissolved before our eyes.
Rust is a good disinfectant, at least as an excuse to take my tax
payers moneys in government grants:
http://water.usgs.gov/wrri/05grants/...005AZ114G.html
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Clay wrote:
>
> Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

If it is a rust inhibitor red iron oxide or zinc paint. I kind of
remember one of our elected officials telling us that, as one of our
water reservoirs leaked and dissolved before our eyes.
Rust is a good disinfectant, at least as an excuse to take my tax
payers moneys in government grants:
http://water.usgs.gov/wrri/05grants/...005AZ114G.html
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Clay wrote:
>
> Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

If it is a rust inhibitor red iron oxide or zinc paint. I kind of
remember one of our elected officials telling us that, as one of our
water reservoirs leaked and dissolved before our eyes.
Rust is a good disinfectant, at least as an excuse to take my tax
payers moneys in government grants:
http://water.usgs.gov/wrri/05grants/...005AZ114G.html
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Clay wrote:
>
> Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating

Clay

Bob Casanova wrote:
> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:34:28 GMT, the following appeared in
> rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by Clay
> <clay@mation.com>:
>
>>Earle Horton wrote:
>>> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
>>> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
>>> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
>>> coating.
>>>
>>> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>
>>Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating
>
> Black iron oxide (ferric, IIRC) is semi-protective. Red iron
> oxide (ferrous) isn't; it's porous and the corrosion will
> just keep going.
> --
>
> Bob C.
>

Well... I just had to google it. Lots of interesting info:

"Rust is really Fe2O3, a reddish form of iron oxide. Iron has another
oxide, Fe3O4, which is sometimes called black oxide, black rust, or
hammerscale."

Micaceous Iron Oxide
Synonyms: Micaceous hematite, Natural lamellar hematite, Specular iron
oxide, Micaceous iron oxide, Natural specular hematite ore
Designations:
Chemical Name: Micaceous iron oxide
Chemical Formula: Crystalline *Fe203*
Description:
1) A naturally occurring lamellar form of ferrous oxide for use
in manufacturing paint coatings.
2) When viewed under an optical microscope by transmitted
light, magnification X 200, the thin flake micaceous iron oxide
particles appear as sharply defined red translucent platelets.
3) *Without doubt, it is the most important barrier pigment
used in coatings to protect structural steelwork from corrosion. It has
a 100 year record of successful use on many types of steel structures
throughout the world.*
4) It forms overlapping plates like mail armor. It reflects
ultaviolet light, allows water vapor to escape from the substrate, and
is chemically resistant.

Clay

Bob Casanova wrote:
> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:34:28 GMT, the following appeared in
> rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by Clay
> <clay@mation.com>:
>
>>Earle Horton wrote:
>>> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
>>> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
>>> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
>>> coating.
>>>
>>> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>
>>Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating
>
> Black iron oxide (ferric, IIRC) is semi-protective. Red iron
> oxide (ferrous) isn't; it's porous and the corrosion will
> just keep going.
> --
>
> Bob C.
>

Well... I just had to google it. Lots of interesting info:

"Rust is really Fe2O3, a reddish form of iron oxide. Iron has another
oxide, Fe3O4, which is sometimes called black oxide, black rust, or
hammerscale."

Micaceous Iron Oxide
Synonyms: Micaceous hematite, Natural lamellar hematite, Specular iron
oxide, Micaceous iron oxide, Natural specular hematite ore
Designations:
Chemical Name: Micaceous iron oxide
Chemical Formula: Crystalline *Fe203*
Description:
1) A naturally occurring lamellar form of ferrous oxide for use
in manufacturing paint coatings.
2) When viewed under an optical microscope by transmitted
light, magnification X 200, the thin flake micaceous iron oxide
particles appear as sharply defined red translucent platelets.
3) *Without doubt, it is the most important barrier pigment
used in coatings to protect structural steelwork from corrosion. It has
a 100 year record of successful use on many types of steel structures
throughout the world.*
4) It forms overlapping plates like mail armor. It reflects
ultaviolet light, allows water vapor to escape from the substrate, and
is chemically resistant.

Clay

Bob Casanova wrote:
> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:34:28 GMT, the following appeared in
> rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by Clay
> <clay@mation.com>:
>
>>Earle Horton wrote:
>>> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
>>> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
>>> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
>>> coating.
>>>
>>> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>
>>Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating
>
> Black iron oxide (ferric, IIRC) is semi-protective. Red iron
> oxide (ferrous) isn't; it's porous and the corrosion will
> just keep going.
> --
>
> Bob C.
>

Well... I just had to google it. Lots of interesting info:

"Rust is really Fe2O3, a reddish form of iron oxide. Iron has another
oxide, Fe3O4, which is sometimes called black oxide, black rust, or
hammerscale."

Micaceous Iron Oxide
Synonyms: Micaceous hematite, Natural lamellar hematite, Specular iron
oxide, Micaceous iron oxide, Natural specular hematite ore
Designations:
Chemical Name: Micaceous iron oxide
Chemical Formula: Crystalline *Fe203*
Description:
1) A naturally occurring lamellar form of ferrous oxide for use
in manufacturing paint coatings.
2) When viewed under an optical microscope by transmitted
light, magnification X 200, the thin flake micaceous iron oxide
particles appear as sharply defined red translucent platelets.
3) *Without doubt, it is the most important barrier pigment
used in coatings to protect structural steelwork from corrosion. It has
a 100 year record of successful use on many types of steel structures
throughout the world.*
4) It forms overlapping plates like mail armor. It reflects
ultaviolet light, allows water vapor to escape from the substrate, and
is chemically resistant.

Clay

Bob Casanova wrote:
> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:34:28 GMT, the following appeared in
> rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by Clay
> <clay@mation.com>:
>
>>Earle Horton wrote:
>>> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
>>> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
>>> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
>>> coating.
>>>
>>> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>>>
>>> Earle
>>
>>Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating
>
> Black iron oxide (ferric, IIRC) is semi-protective. Red iron
> oxide (ferrous) isn't; it's porous and the corrosion will
> just keep going.
> --
>
> Bob C.
>

Well... I just had to google it. Lots of interesting info:

"Rust is really Fe2O3, a reddish form of iron oxide. Iron has another
oxide, Fe3O4, which is sometimes called black oxide, black rust, or
hammerscale."

Micaceous Iron Oxide
Synonyms: Micaceous hematite, Natural lamellar hematite, Specular iron
oxide, Micaceous iron oxide, Natural specular hematite ore
Designations:
Chemical Name: Micaceous iron oxide
Chemical Formula: Crystalline *Fe203*
Description:
1) A naturally occurring lamellar form of ferrous oxide for use
in manufacturing paint coatings.
2) When viewed under an optical microscope by transmitted
light, magnification X 200, the thin flake micaceous iron oxide
particles appear as sharply defined red translucent platelets.
3) *Without doubt, it is the most important barrier pigment
used in coatings to protect structural steelwork from corrosion. It has
a 100 year record of successful use on many types of steel structures
throughout the world.*
4) It forms overlapping plates like mail armor. It reflects
ultaviolet light, allows water vapor to escape from the substrate, and
is chemically resistant.

Earle Horton

That's what makes me believe, that this "dry thread" nonsense, is insane.
Nowhere else have I seen torque tightening specifications, for "dry
threads". It is always "lightly lubricated" threads. By the way, "those
el-cheapo OEM lug nuts" that JD Adams is talking about, are probably
designed that way on purpose, to spare the wheel studs from the kind of
damage that those "heavily chromed, forged steel lugs" are going to be
dishing out.

This is almost as much fun, as last night's Town Council meeting.

Earle

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4421CE81.1A072383@***.net...
> I use chassis grease, no where does it call for it, but I drive in
> occasionally in salt water, at San Felpie, or in the Borrego Bad Lands,
> for those that want to run them dry, then at least protect them with
> factory hub caps. If you're replaced a tire that's been bolted to a
> trailer or something that hasn't moved in twenty years, then you know
> you're going to have to break a couple of studs, if they were dry.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> JD Adams wrote:
> >
> > Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> > maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> > on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> > engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> > usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
> >
> > I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> > change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> > chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> > my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> > grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
> >
> > He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> > time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> > friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> > everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> > that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> > put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
> >
> > I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> > heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> > like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> > won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> > everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> > --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
> >
> > Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> > makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> > change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> > disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
> >
> > -JD

Earle Horton

That's what makes me believe, that this "dry thread" nonsense, is insane.
Nowhere else have I seen torque tightening specifications, for "dry
threads". It is always "lightly lubricated" threads. By the way, "those
el-cheapo OEM lug nuts" that JD Adams is talking about, are probably
designed that way on purpose, to spare the wheel studs from the kind of
damage that those "heavily chromed, forged steel lugs" are going to be
dishing out.

This is almost as much fun, as last night's Town Council meeting.

Earle

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4421CE81.1A072383@***.net...
> I use chassis grease, no where does it call for it, but I drive in
> occasionally in salt water, at San Felpie, or in the Borrego Bad Lands,
> for those that want to run them dry, then at least protect them with
> factory hub caps. If you're replaced a tire that's been bolted to a
> trailer or something that hasn't moved in twenty years, then you know
> you're going to have to break a couple of studs, if they were dry.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> JD Adams wrote:
> >
> > Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> > maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> > on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> > engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> > usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
> >
> > I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> > change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> > chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> > my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> > grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
> >
> > He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> > time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> > friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> > everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> > that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> > put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
> >
> > I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> > heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> > like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> > won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> > everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> > --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
> >
> > Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> > makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> > change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> > disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
> >
> > -JD

Earle Horton

That's what makes me believe, that this "dry thread" nonsense, is insane.
Nowhere else have I seen torque tightening specifications, for "dry
threads". It is always "lightly lubricated" threads. By the way, "those
el-cheapo OEM lug nuts" that JD Adams is talking about, are probably
designed that way on purpose, to spare the wheel studs from the kind of
damage that those "heavily chromed, forged steel lugs" are going to be
dishing out.

This is almost as much fun, as last night's Town Council meeting.

Earle

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:4421CE81.1A072383@***.net...
> I use chassis grease, no where does it call for it, but I drive in
> occasionally in salt water, at San Felpie, or in the Borrego Bad Lands,
> for those that want to run them dry, then at least protect them with
> factory hub caps. If you're replaced a tire that's been bolted to a
> trailer or something that hasn't moved in twenty years, then you know
> you're going to have to break a couple of studs, if they were dry.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> JD Adams wrote:
> >
> > Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> > maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> > on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> > engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> > usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
> >
> > I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> > change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> > chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> > my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> > grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
> >
> > He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> > time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> > friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> > everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> > that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> > put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
> >
> > I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> > heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> > like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> > won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> > everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> > --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
> >
> > Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> > makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> > change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> > disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
> >
> > -JD