rufus t wrote:
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in
> news:4421B92B.BD71F271@sympatico.ca:
>
> > I live in the rust belt where everything rots long before it wears out
> > and always go dry with capped nuts. With open nuts, I have used
> > grease on top after it is tightened down.
> >
> > I have antiseize and use it everywhere else, but still not on wheel
> > nuts.
> >
> > We just had to remove all my wheels a couple days ago and they came
> > off easily. It's been a while since they were removed....
> >
> > Anyhow, just be aware that antiseize is considered a 'wet' torque.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
> OK, so I would assume that using lock-tite would be a wet torque as well.
> Are the (for example) motor-mount bolts I just torqued to 40 lbs too tight
> because I used lock-tight?
>
> How much of an adjustment would you need to make in the torque when using a
> wet torque?
>
> rufus

Someone posted a list here a while back. When I rebuilt my CJ7 I went
about 30% less on the ones with antiseize and loctite on them. I didn't
snap anything and nothing fell off. I have pulled apart a lot of things
over the years and can sure 'feel' the difference when tightening up dry
or lubed threads. I learned way back that I can snap off greased up
bolts very easily....

I had to remove my spindle this week and all the nuts came off easy as
well as the spindle popped out fairly easily. A couple thumps and out
it came. The 5 or 6 year old antiseize was still in evidence.

Engine mount bolts are 'special' it would seem. I have heard of folks
that just plain can't tighten them right so they always end up with
snapped ones.

Snapped ones imply they were either loose so were subjected to vibration
impact or they were over tightened and subjected to stretching
fractures. I suspect the second due to cussing about even using thread
seal on them....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

 

rufus t wrote:
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in
> news:4421B92B.BD71F271@sympatico.ca:
>
> > I live in the rust belt where everything rots long before it wears out
> > and always go dry with capped nuts. With open nuts, I have used
> > grease on top after it is tightened down.
> >
> > I have antiseize and use it everywhere else, but still not on wheel
> > nuts.
> >
> > We just had to remove all my wheels a couple days ago and they came
> > off easily. It's been a while since they were removed....
> >
> > Anyhow, just be aware that antiseize is considered a 'wet' torque.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
> OK, so I would assume that using lock-tite would be a wet torque as well.
> Are the (for example) motor-mount bolts I just torqued to 40 lbs too tight
> because I used lock-tight?
>
> How much of an adjustment would you need to make in the torque when using a
> wet torque?
>
> rufus

Someone posted a list here a while back. When I rebuilt my CJ7 I went
about 30% less on the ones with antiseize and loctite on them. I didn't
snap anything and nothing fell off. I have pulled apart a lot of things
over the years and can sure 'feel' the difference when tightening up dry
or lubed threads. I learned way back that I can snap off greased up
bolts very easily....

I had to remove my spindle this week and all the nuts came off easy as
well as the spindle popped out fairly easily. A couple thumps and out
it came. The 5 or 6 year old antiseize was still in evidence.

Engine mount bolts are 'special' it would seem. I have heard of folks
that just plain can't tighten them right so they always end up with
snapped ones.

Snapped ones imply they were either loose so were subjected to vibration
impact or they were over tightened and subjected to stretching
fractures. I suspect the second due to cussing about even using thread
seal on them....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

 

They come in a packing coating to prevent corrosion, the same as new
rotors and bearings. You are supposed to wash off this coating with a
solvent....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

DaveW wrote:
>
> Funny thing is that in the past, when I have had to install replacement
> studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
> You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
> well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
>
> So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
> a bad thing.
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve

 

They come in a packing coating to prevent corrosion, the same as new
rotors and bearings. You are supposed to wash off this coating with a
solvent....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

DaveW wrote:
>
> Funny thing is that in the past, when I have had to install replacement
> studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
> You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
> well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
>
> So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
> a bad thing.
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve

 

They come in a packing coating to prevent corrosion, the same as new
rotors and bearings. You are supposed to wash off this coating with a
solvent....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

DaveW wrote:
>
> Funny thing is that in the past, when I have had to install replacement
> studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
> You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
> well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
>
> So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
> a bad thing.
>
> Regards,
>
> DAve

 

Now I remember back when ordinary folks didn't have torque wrenches, air
compressors and impact wrenches at home. And some service stations
didn't either. With lug nuts, you used a "star" wrench and the important
thing was that the lug nuts all be tightened about equally. Put yer back
into it a little bit on that final turn. And the common knowledge at that
time was that lug nuts (and studs) should be clean and dry, no lube. It
was also common knowledge back then that a person should check their lug
nuts occasionally.

So I wonder if it's all that important to have the exact (or correct, per
factory) torque on lug nuts? They need to be equal, so as to not cause
warping, and they need to be tight enough to hold the wheel secure and not
allow it to come off. What more does a guy need?

Now-a-days many more people are using alloy wheels, which are probably more
elastic (correct term?) than ordinary stamped steel wheels and so need a
more precise tightening than the steel wheels. But just how much more
precise does it need to be?

Where I worked, we serviced our own trucks. The tire shop had one of
those big old manly-man impact wrenches for putting the wheels back on the
trucks. They used the same wrench for alloy and steel wheels. Never did
see a torque wrench laying about. Never heard of a wheel coming off.
Never heard of a warped rotor or drum.

I recently got a set of tires at Costco. The tire shop was very neat and
spotless. The policy at the shop was that the final tightening was by a
more senior employee with a torque wrench. Seems like a prudent thing for
a (deep pockets) company to do.

Now, personally, I have an air compressor and a 1/2" impact wrench at home
and my compressor is usually at about 95#. ( I know that doesn't translate
to torque lbs.) When I rotate my tires I usually just go around my pattern
3 or 4 times once all the slack has been taken up. Seems to work ok.
I've never lubed the lug nuts. That said, the first time I rotated the
alloy wheels on my new Chevy truck I thought I was going to have to go to
the dealer to get the nuts broke loose. Dang, were they ever tight!
Must have used one of those big old manly-man impact wrenches to put them on
at the factory! Seemed like over-kill.

None of the above is intended to flame or put down anyone using more precise
techniques. I admire precision. It's just that some times common sense
can be just as effective and a whole lot less trouble.

Ralph

 

Now I remember back when ordinary folks didn't have torque wrenches, air
compressors and impact wrenches at home. And some service stations
didn't either. With lug nuts, you used a "star" wrench and the important
thing was that the lug nuts all be tightened about equally. Put yer back
into it a little bit on that final turn. And the common knowledge at that
time was that lug nuts (and studs) should be clean and dry, no lube. It
was also common knowledge back then that a person should check their lug
nuts occasionally.

So I wonder if it's all that important to have the exact (or correct, per
factory) torque on lug nuts? They need to be equal, so as to not cause
warping, and they need to be tight enough to hold the wheel secure and not
allow it to come off. What more does a guy need?

Now-a-days many more people are using alloy wheels, which are probably more
elastic (correct term?) than ordinary stamped steel wheels and so need a
more precise tightening than the steel wheels. But just how much more
precise does it need to be?

Where I worked, we serviced our own trucks. The tire shop had one of
those big old manly-man impact wrenches for putting the wheels back on the
trucks. They used the same wrench for alloy and steel wheels. Never did
see a torque wrench laying about. Never heard of a wheel coming off.
Never heard of a warped rotor or drum.

I recently got a set of tires at Costco. The tire shop was very neat and
spotless. The policy at the shop was that the final tightening was by a
more senior employee with a torque wrench. Seems like a prudent thing for
a (deep pockets) company to do.

Now, personally, I have an air compressor and a 1/2" impact wrench at home
and my compressor is usually at about 95#. ( I know that doesn't translate
to torque lbs.) When I rotate my tires I usually just go around my pattern
3 or 4 times once all the slack has been taken up. Seems to work ok.
I've never lubed the lug nuts. That said, the first time I rotated the
alloy wheels on my new Chevy truck I thought I was going to have to go to
the dealer to get the nuts broke loose. Dang, were they ever tight!
Must have used one of those big old manly-man impact wrenches to put them on
at the factory! Seemed like over-kill.

None of the above is intended to flame or put down anyone using more precise
techniques. I admire precision. It's just that some times common sense
can be just as effective and a whole lot less trouble.

Ralph

 

Now I remember back when ordinary folks didn't have torque wrenches, air
compressors and impact wrenches at home. And some service stations
didn't either. With lug nuts, you used a "star" wrench and the important
thing was that the lug nuts all be tightened about equally. Put yer back
into it a little bit on that final turn. And the common knowledge at that
time was that lug nuts (and studs) should be clean and dry, no lube. It
was also common knowledge back then that a person should check their lug
nuts occasionally.

So I wonder if it's all that important to have the exact (or correct, per
factory) torque on lug nuts? They need to be equal, so as to not cause
warping, and they need to be tight enough to hold the wheel secure and not
allow it to come off. What more does a guy need?

Now-a-days many more people are using alloy wheels, which are probably more
elastic (correct term?) than ordinary stamped steel wheels and so need a
more precise tightening than the steel wheels. But just how much more
precise does it need to be?

Where I worked, we serviced our own trucks. The tire shop had one of
those big old manly-man impact wrenches for putting the wheels back on the
trucks. They used the same wrench for alloy and steel wheels. Never did
see a torque wrench laying about. Never heard of a wheel coming off.
Never heard of a warped rotor or drum.

I recently got a set of tires at Costco. The tire shop was very neat and
spotless. The policy at the shop was that the final tightening was by a
more senior employee with a torque wrench. Seems like a prudent thing for
a (deep pockets) company to do.

Now, personally, I have an air compressor and a 1/2" impact wrench at home
and my compressor is usually at about 95#. ( I know that doesn't translate
to torque lbs.) When I rotate my tires I usually just go around my pattern
3 or 4 times once all the slack has been taken up. Seems to work ok.
I've never lubed the lug nuts. That said, the first time I rotated the
alloy wheels on my new Chevy truck I thought I was going to have to go to
the dealer to get the nuts broke loose. Dang, were they ever tight!
Must have used one of those big old manly-man impact wrenches to put them on
at the factory! Seemed like over-kill.

None of the above is intended to flame or put down anyone using more precise
techniques. I admire precision. It's just that some times common sense
can be just as effective and a whole lot less trouble.

Ralph

 

Earle Horton wrote:

> It used to be "common knowledge" that tomatoes were deadly poison.
>
> Earle

You haven't had my ex-wife's spaghetti.

tw



__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________

 

Earle Horton wrote:

> It used to be "common knowledge" that tomatoes were deadly poison.
>
> Earle

You haven't had my ex-wife's spaghetti.

tw



__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________