And of course, seal them away from the weather by replacing the
protective cover.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

billy ray wrote:
>
> FWIW:
> This is what the WJ manual (section 22 Page 9) says about the topic.
>
> "To install the wheel, first position it properly on
> the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
>
> tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
>
> sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).
>
> Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts."

 

And of course, seal them away from the weather by replacing the
protective cover.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

billy ray wrote:
>
> FWIW:
> This is what the WJ manual (section 22 Page 9) says about the topic.
>
> "To install the wheel, first position it properly on
> the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
>
> tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
>
> sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).
>
> Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts."

 

On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 00:25:29 GMT, the following appeared in
rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by Clay
<clay@mation.com>:

>Bob Casanova wrote:
>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:34:28 GMT, the following appeared in
>> rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by Clay
>> <clay@mation.com>:
>>
>>>Earle Horton wrote:
>>>> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
>>>> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
>>>> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
>>>> coating.
>>>>
>>>> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>>>>
>>>> Earle
>>>
>>>Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating
>>
>> Black iron oxide (ferric, IIRC) is semi-protective. Red iron
>> oxide (ferrous) isn't; it's porous and the corrosion will
>> just keep going.
>> --
>>
>> Bob C.
>>
>
>Well... I just had to google it. Lots of interesting info:
>
>"Rust is really Fe2O3, a reddish form of iron oxide. Iron has another
>oxide, Fe3O4, which is sometimes called black oxide, black rust, or
>hammerscale."
>
>Micaceous Iron Oxide
>Synonyms: Micaceous hematite, Natural lamellar hematite, Specular iron
>oxide, Micaceous iron oxide, Natural specular hematite ore
> Designations:
> Chemical Name: Micaceous iron oxide
> Chemical Formula: Crystalline *Fe203*
> Description:
> 1) A naturally occurring lamellar form of ferrous oxide for use
>in manufacturing paint coatings.
> 2) When viewed under an optical microscope by transmitted
>light, magnification X 200, the thin flake micaceous iron oxide
>particles appear as sharply defined red translucent platelets.
> 3) *Without doubt, it is the most important barrier pigment
>used in coatings to protect structural steelwork from corrosion. It has
>a 100 year record of successful use on many types of steel structures
>throughout the world.*
> 4) It forms overlapping plates like mail armor. It reflects
>ultaviolet light, allows water vapor to escape from the substrate, and
>is chemically resistant.

You might want to consider that rust formed by corrosion of
bare steel or iron might have properties a *wee* bit
different from those of a protective coating containing
oxides.
--

Bob C.

"Evidence confirming an observation is
evidence that the observation is wrong."
- McNameless

 

On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 00:25:29 GMT, the following appeared in
rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by Clay
<clay@mation.com>:

>Bob Casanova wrote:
>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:34:28 GMT, the following appeared in
>> rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by Clay
>> <clay@mation.com>:
>>
>>>Earle Horton wrote:
>>>> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
>>>> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
>>>> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
>>>> coating.
>>>>
>>>> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>>>>
>>>> Earle
>>>
>>>Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating
>>
>> Black iron oxide (ferric, IIRC) is semi-protective. Red iron
>> oxide (ferrous) isn't; it's porous and the corrosion will
>> just keep going.
>> --
>>
>> Bob C.
>>
>
>Well... I just had to google it. Lots of interesting info:
>
>"Rust is really Fe2O3, a reddish form of iron oxide. Iron has another
>oxide, Fe3O4, which is sometimes called black oxide, black rust, or
>hammerscale."
>
>Micaceous Iron Oxide
>Synonyms: Micaceous hematite, Natural lamellar hematite, Specular iron
>oxide, Micaceous iron oxide, Natural specular hematite ore
> Designations:
> Chemical Name: Micaceous iron oxide
> Chemical Formula: Crystalline *Fe203*
> Description:
> 1) A naturally occurring lamellar form of ferrous oxide for use
>in manufacturing paint coatings.
> 2) When viewed under an optical microscope by transmitted
>light, magnification X 200, the thin flake micaceous iron oxide
>particles appear as sharply defined red translucent platelets.
> 3) *Without doubt, it is the most important barrier pigment
>used in coatings to protect structural steelwork from corrosion. It has
>a 100 year record of successful use on many types of steel structures
>throughout the world.*
> 4) It forms overlapping plates like mail armor. It reflects
>ultaviolet light, allows water vapor to escape from the substrate, and
>is chemically resistant.

You might want to consider that rust formed by corrosion of
bare steel or iron might have properties a *wee* bit
different from those of a protective coating containing
oxides.
--

Bob C.

"Evidence confirming an observation is
evidence that the observation is wrong."
- McNameless

 

On Thu, 23 Mar 2006 00:25:29 GMT, the following appeared in
rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by Clay
<clay@mation.com>:

>Bob Casanova wrote:
>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 21:34:28 GMT, the following appeared in
>> rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by Clay
>> <clay@mation.com>:
>>
>>>Earle Horton wrote:
>>>> An old Polish farmer I did some work for recommended water on truck and
>>>> tractor lug nuts. It acts as an assembly lubricant, and then evaporates
>>>> before the nuts can back off. On some metals it leaves a protective
>>>> coating.
>>>>
>>>> If you live long enough, you will hear most anything.
>>>>
>>>> Earle
>>>
>>>Iron oxide (rust) *is* a protective coating
>>
>> Black iron oxide (ferric, IIRC) is semi-protective. Red iron
>> oxide (ferrous) isn't; it's porous and the corrosion will
>> just keep going.
>> --
>>
>> Bob C.
>>
>
>Well... I just had to google it. Lots of interesting info:
>
>"Rust is really Fe2O3, a reddish form of iron oxide. Iron has another
>oxide, Fe3O4, which is sometimes called black oxide, black rust, or
>hammerscale."
>
>Micaceous Iron Oxide
>Synonyms: Micaceous hematite, Natural lamellar hematite, Specular iron
>oxide, Micaceous iron oxide, Natural specular hematite ore
> Designations:
> Chemical Name: Micaceous iron oxide
> Chemical Formula: Crystalline *Fe203*
> Description:
> 1) A naturally occurring lamellar form of ferrous oxide for use
>in manufacturing paint coatings.
> 2) When viewed under an optical microscope by transmitted
>light, magnification X 200, the thin flake micaceous iron oxide
>particles appear as sharply defined red translucent platelets.
> 3) *Without doubt, it is the most important barrier pigment
>used in coatings to protect structural steelwork from corrosion. It has
>a 100 year record of successful use on many types of steel structures
>throughout the world.*
> 4) It forms overlapping plates like mail armor. It reflects
>ultaviolet light, allows water vapor to escape from the substrate, and
>is chemically resistant.

You might want to consider that rust formed by corrosion of
bare steel or iron might have properties a *wee* bit
different from those of a protective coating containing
oxides.
--

Bob C.

"Evidence confirming an observation is
evidence that the observation is wrong."
- McNameless

 

No mention of that. Here is the entire "Installation Section"
SERVICE PROCEDURES

WHEEL INSTALLATION

The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific

applications. They must be replaced with equivalent

parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality

or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel

wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an

enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to

ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.

NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with

chrome plated wheels.

Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any

build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.

Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal

contact. Improper installation could cause loosening

of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and handling

of your vehicle.

To install the wheel, first position it properly on

the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be

tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in

sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.





"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:442318E2.CEB4744@***.net...
> And of course, seal them away from the weather by replacing the
> protective cover.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> billy ray wrote:
>>
>> FWIW:
>> This is what the WJ manual (section 22 Page 9) says about the topic.
>>
>> "To install the wheel, first position it properly on
>> the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
>>
>> tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
>>
>> sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).
>>
>> Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts."

 

No mention of that. Here is the entire "Installation Section"
SERVICE PROCEDURES

WHEEL INSTALLATION

The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific

applications. They must be replaced with equivalent

parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality

or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel

wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an

enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to

ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.

NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with

chrome plated wheels.

Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any

build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.

Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal

contact. Improper installation could cause loosening

of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and handling

of your vehicle.

To install the wheel, first position it properly on

the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be

tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in

sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.





"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:442318E2.CEB4744@***.net...
> And of course, seal them away from the weather by replacing the
> protective cover.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> billy ray wrote:
>>
>> FWIW:
>> This is what the WJ manual (section 22 Page 9) says about the topic.
>>
>> "To install the wheel, first position it properly on
>> the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
>>
>> tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
>>
>> sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).
>>
>> Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts."

 

No mention of that. Here is the entire "Installation Section"
SERVICE PROCEDURES

WHEEL INSTALLATION

The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific

applications. They must be replaced with equivalent

parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality

or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel

wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an

enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to

ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.

NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with

chrome plated wheels.

Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any

build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.

Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal

contact. Improper installation could cause loosening

of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and handling

of your vehicle.

To install the wheel, first position it properly on

the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be

tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in

sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.





"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:442318E2.CEB4744@***.net...
> And of course, seal them away from the weather by replacing the
> protective cover.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> billy ray wrote:
>>
>> FWIW:
>> This is what the WJ manual (section 22 Page 9) says about the topic.
>>
>> "To install the wheel, first position it properly on
>> the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
>>
>> tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
>>
>> sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).
>>
>> Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts."

 

So take your caps off, you don't need them.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

billy ray wrote:
>
> No mention of that. Here is the entire "Installation Section"
> SERVICE PROCEDURES
>
> WHEEL INSTALLATION
>
> The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
>
> applications. They must be replaced with equivalent
>
> parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality
>
> or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel
>
> wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an
>
> enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to
>
> ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.
>
> NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with
>
> chrome plated wheels.
>
> Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any
>
> build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.
>
> Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal
>
> contact. Improper installation could cause loosening
>
> of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and handling
>
> of your vehicle.
>
> To install the wheel, first position it properly on
>
> the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
>
> tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
>
> sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).
>
> Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.

 

So take your caps off, you don't need them.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

billy ray wrote:
>
> No mention of that. Here is the entire "Installation Section"
> SERVICE PROCEDURES
>
> WHEEL INSTALLATION
>
> The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
>
> applications. They must be replaced with equivalent
>
> parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality
>
> or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel
>
> wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an
>
> enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to
>
> ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.
>
> NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with
>
> chrome plated wheels.
>
> Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any
>
> build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.
>
> Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal
>
> contact. Improper installation could cause loosening
>
> of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and handling
>
> of your vehicle.
>
> To install the wheel, first position it properly on
>
> the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
>
> tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
>
> sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).
>
> Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.