Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Guest
Posts: n/a
So take your caps off, you don't need them.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
billy ray wrote:
>
> No mention of that. Here is the entire "Installation Section"
> SERVICE PROCEDURES
>
> WHEEL INSTALLATION
>
> The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
>
> applications. They must be replaced with equivalent
>
> parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality
>
> or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel
>
> wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an
>
> enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to
>
> ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.
>
> NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with
>
> chrome plated wheels.
>
> Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any
>
> build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.
>
> Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal
>
> contact. Improper installation could cause loosening
>
> of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and handling
>
> of your vehicle.
>
> To install the wheel, first position it properly on
>
> the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
>
> tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
>
> sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).
>
> Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
billy ray wrote:
>
> No mention of that. Here is the entire "Installation Section"
> SERVICE PROCEDURES
>
> WHEEL INSTALLATION
>
> The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
>
> applications. They must be replaced with equivalent
>
> parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality
>
> or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel
>
> wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an
>
> enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to
>
> ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.
>
> NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with
>
> chrome plated wheels.
>
> Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any
>
> build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.
>
> Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal
>
> contact. Improper installation could cause loosening
>
> of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and handling
>
> of your vehicle.
>
> To install the wheel, first position it properly on
>
> the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
>
> tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
>
> sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 5).
>
> Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Pumper Hinkle wrote:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomato
>
> I had some of my information on tomatos incorrect. Don't know where I got
> my info but it was a long time ago.
>
> The above link will tell all that anyone might want to know about tomatos
> but begs the question: which came first, the tomato or the pizza? ;-)
>
> Ralph
>
>
The pizza came first.
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Histo...zzaHistory.htm
--
FRH
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomato
>
> I had some of my information on tomatos incorrect. Don't know where I got
> my info but it was a long time ago.
>
> The above link will tell all that anyone might want to know about tomatos
> but begs the question: which came first, the tomato or the pizza? ;-)
>
> Ralph
>
>
The pizza came first.
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Histo...zzaHistory.htm
--
FRH
Guest
Posts: n/a
Pumper Hinkle wrote:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomato
>
> I had some of my information on tomatos incorrect. Don't know where I got
> my info but it was a long time ago.
>
> The above link will tell all that anyone might want to know about tomatos
> but begs the question: which came first, the tomato or the pizza? ;-)
>
> Ralph
>
>
The pizza came first.
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Histo...zzaHistory.htm
--
FRH
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomato
>
> I had some of my information on tomatos incorrect. Don't know where I got
> my info but it was a long time ago.
>
> The above link will tell all that anyone might want to know about tomatos
> but begs the question: which came first, the tomato or the pizza? ;-)
>
> Ralph
>
>
The pizza came first.
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Histo...zzaHistory.htm
--
FRH
Guest
Posts: n/a
Pumper Hinkle wrote:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomato
>
> I had some of my information on tomatos incorrect. Don't know where I got
> my info but it was a long time ago.
>
> The above link will tell all that anyone might want to know about tomatos
> but begs the question: which came first, the tomato or the pizza? ;-)
>
> Ralph
>
>
The pizza came first.
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Histo...zzaHistory.htm
--
FRH
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomato
>
> I had some of my information on tomatos incorrect. Don't know where I got
> my info but it was a long time ago.
>
> The above link will tell all that anyone might want to know about tomatos
> but begs the question: which came first, the tomato or the pizza? ;-)
>
> Ralph
>
>
The pizza came first.
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Histo...zzaHistory.htm
--
FRH
Guest
Posts: n/a
LOL !!!!!
"twaldron" <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote in message
news:xvydnavSYvMudb_Z4p2dnA@comcast.com...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
> > It used to be "common knowledge" that tomatoes were deadly poison.
> >
> > Earle
>
> You haven't had my ex-wife's spaghetti.
>
"twaldron" <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote in message
news:xvydnavSYvMudb_Z4p2dnA@comcast.com...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
> > It used to be "common knowledge" that tomatoes were deadly poison.
> >
> > Earle
>
> You haven't had my ex-wife's spaghetti.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
LOL !!!!!
"twaldron" <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote in message
news:xvydnavSYvMudb_Z4p2dnA@comcast.com...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
> > It used to be "common knowledge" that tomatoes were deadly poison.
> >
> > Earle
>
> You haven't had my ex-wife's spaghetti.
>
"twaldron" <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote in message
news:xvydnavSYvMudb_Z4p2dnA@comcast.com...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
> > It used to be "common knowledge" that tomatoes were deadly poison.
> >
> > Earle
>
> You haven't had my ex-wife's spaghetti.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
LOL !!!!!
"twaldron" <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote in message
news:xvydnavSYvMudb_Z4p2dnA@comcast.com...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
> > It used to be "common knowledge" that tomatoes were deadly poison.
> >
> > Earle
>
> You haven't had my ex-wife's spaghetti.
>
"twaldron" <thomasOBVIOUS@rubicons.com> wrote in message
news:xvydnavSYvMudb_Z4p2dnA@comcast.com...
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
> > It used to be "common knowledge" that tomatoes were deadly poison.
> >
> > Earle
>
> You haven't had my ex-wife's spaghetti.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
I have always sprayed my studs with a thin WD-40 type spray. I know specs
call for "dry" torque, but I have always used WD-40 on studs and have had no
problems.
Tom
"JD Adams" <JDAdams@Softcom.Net> wrote in message
news:1143052193.441391.66530@i40g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
>
> I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
>
> He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
>
> I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
>
> Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
>
> -JD
>
call for "dry" torque, but I have always used WD-40 on studs and have had no
problems.
Tom
"JD Adams" <JDAdams@Softcom.Net> wrote in message
news:1143052193.441391.66530@i40g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
>
> I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
>
> He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
>
> I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
>
> Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
>
> -JD
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
I have always sprayed my studs with a thin WD-40 type spray. I know specs
call for "dry" torque, but I have always used WD-40 on studs and have had no
problems.
Tom
"JD Adams" <JDAdams@Softcom.Net> wrote in message
news:1143052193.441391.66530@i40g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
>
> I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
>
> He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
>
> I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
>
> Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
>
> -JD
>
call for "dry" torque, but I have always used WD-40 on studs and have had no
problems.
Tom
"JD Adams" <JDAdams@Softcom.Net> wrote in message
news:1143052193.441391.66530@i40g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
>
> I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
>
> He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
>
> I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
>
> Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
>
> -JD
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
I have always sprayed my studs with a thin WD-40 type spray. I know specs
call for "dry" torque, but I have always used WD-40 on studs and have had no
problems.
Tom
"JD Adams" <JDAdams@Softcom.Net> wrote in message
news:1143052193.441391.66530@i40g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
>
> I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
>
> He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
>
> I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
>
> Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
>
> -JD
>
call for "dry" torque, but I have always used WD-40 on studs and have had no
problems.
Tom
"JD Adams" <JDAdams@Softcom.Net> wrote in message
news:1143052193.441391.66530@i40g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Yesterday was a semi-nice day, so I decided to catch up on some
> maintenance --oil and filter change (M1 the Puro 30001 sure works nice
> on a 4.0!), TB cleaning, new Puro air filter, front-end lube, powerwash
> engine and fenderwells, a quick run through the local car wash, the
> usual. Work is slow right now and I'm bored.
>
> I later decided to go the extra mile and do a 4-wheel tire rotation and
> change out those el-cheapo OEM lug nuts with a good set of heavily
> chromed, forged steel lugs. While I had one side up in the air doing
> my thing, a neighbor commented on my practice of applying bearing
> grease to the studs before torquing the nuts down to 90 ft/lbs.
>
> He claims that it's a bad practice, and that the lugs will loosen over
> time because of it. I politely disagreed, saying that it is the
> friction between the tapered nut face and the wheel that keeps
> everything tight rather than friction from fastener threadfaces, and
> that the only real way to get good, accurate, consistant torque is to
> put a TINY BIT of lubricant on the threads before reassembly.
>
> I know this all sounds petty, but I'm wondering if anyone here has
> heard of mishaps that were the direct result of 'lug nut greasin'? I
> like knowing that the nuts will spin off easily many years later and
> won't rust up, no matter how much muck I plow through. And I make sure
> everything is cool to the touch before everthing gets tightened down
> --all pretty common sense stuff IMO.
>
> Am I offbase here? Admittedly, this is 'old-school' technology, but it
> makes a lot of sense to me, much like 'priming' the engine after an oil
> change before actually firing it up. (Yeah, I do that too; I
> disconnect the crank sensor, then reset the MIL when I'm done.)
>
> -JD
>


