Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Found this on the net:
"Since dry vs wet can vary greatly, any structural bolts that would be
torqued under my supervision must be done per the AISC Calibrated torque
wrench method to verify proper tension. But since you people are mere
peons, not able to fully appreciate a Wilhelm-Skidmore bolt tensioner, I
would go off the following rule of thumb torque formula:
T=(KDW)/12=foot-pounds
where T= torque
K=friction factor
D= Nominal bolt diameter in decimal inches
W=clamp load in pounds
K=0.30 for nonplated fasteners, black finish
K=0.20 for electrodeposited zinc coatings
K=0.15-0.18 for oils
K=0.16 for cadmium electrodeposited coatings
K=0.12 for copper anti-seize compound
Standard practice is to tighten a bolt to 70-75% of the proof load. Proof
load is the point where a bolt will permanently deform more than 2%.
Let me know if you need any more schooling.
Jay
In a message dated 6/28/2002 11:30:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
JCrisler@corvis.com writes:"
"Since dry vs wet can vary greatly, any structural bolts that would be
torqued under my supervision must be done per the AISC Calibrated torque
wrench method to verify proper tension. But since you people are mere
peons, not able to fully appreciate a Wilhelm-Skidmore bolt tensioner, I
would go off the following rule of thumb torque formula:
T=(KDW)/12=foot-pounds
where T= torque
K=friction factor
D= Nominal bolt diameter in decimal inches
W=clamp load in pounds
K=0.30 for nonplated fasteners, black finish
K=0.20 for electrodeposited zinc coatings
K=0.15-0.18 for oils
K=0.16 for cadmium electrodeposited coatings
K=0.12 for copper anti-seize compound
Standard practice is to tighten a bolt to 70-75% of the proof load. Proof
load is the point where a bolt will permanently deform more than 2%.
Let me know if you need any more schooling.
Jay
In a message dated 6/28/2002 11:30:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
JCrisler@corvis.com writes:"
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Hi Samuel,
Another: http://www.engineersedge.com/torque.htm
T = Torque required (inch pounds)
F = Bolt tension desired (Axial Load) (pounds).
D = Nominal bolt diameter. (major dia.)
EQUATION: T = .2 D F (Dry)
As a Hot Rodder I assume all bolts and nuts to be oiled as that's
pot I drop them into, like just before I install a piston it is soaked
to ring depth in a pan full of oil. Torqued to my manuals specs, or look
for a site on the internet: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Samuel Devlin wrote:
>
> Found this on the net:
>
> "Since dry vs wet can vary greatly, any structural bolts that would be
> torqued under my supervision must be done per the AISC Calibrated torque
> wrench method to verify proper tension. But since you people are mere
> peons, not able to fully appreciate a Wilhelm-Skidmore bolt tensioner, I
> would go off the following rule of thumb torque formula:
>
> T=(KDW)/12=foot-pounds
>
> where T= torque
> K=friction factor
> D= Nominal bolt diameter in decimal inches
> W=clamp load in pounds
> K=0.30 for nonplated fasteners, black finish
> K=0.20 for electrodeposited zinc coatings
> K=0.15-0.18 for oils
> K=0.16 for cadmium electrodeposited coatings
> K=0.12 for copper anti-seize compound
>
> Standard practice is to tighten a bolt to 70-75% of the proof load. Proof
> load is the point where a bolt will permanently deform more than 2%.
>
> Let me know if you need any more schooling.
>
> Jay
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2002 11:30:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> JCrisler@corvis.com writes:"
Another: http://www.engineersedge.com/torque.htm
T = Torque required (inch pounds)
F = Bolt tension desired (Axial Load) (pounds).
D = Nominal bolt diameter. (major dia.)
EQUATION: T = .2 D F (Dry)
As a Hot Rodder I assume all bolts and nuts to be oiled as that's
pot I drop them into, like just before I install a piston it is soaked
to ring depth in a pan full of oil. Torqued to my manuals specs, or look
for a site on the internet: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Samuel Devlin wrote:
>
> Found this on the net:
>
> "Since dry vs wet can vary greatly, any structural bolts that would be
> torqued under my supervision must be done per the AISC Calibrated torque
> wrench method to verify proper tension. But since you people are mere
> peons, not able to fully appreciate a Wilhelm-Skidmore bolt tensioner, I
> would go off the following rule of thumb torque formula:
>
> T=(KDW)/12=foot-pounds
>
> where T= torque
> K=friction factor
> D= Nominal bolt diameter in decimal inches
> W=clamp load in pounds
> K=0.30 for nonplated fasteners, black finish
> K=0.20 for electrodeposited zinc coatings
> K=0.15-0.18 for oils
> K=0.16 for cadmium electrodeposited coatings
> K=0.12 for copper anti-seize compound
>
> Standard practice is to tighten a bolt to 70-75% of the proof load. Proof
> load is the point where a bolt will permanently deform more than 2%.
>
> Let me know if you need any more schooling.
>
> Jay
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2002 11:30:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> JCrisler@corvis.com writes:"
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Hi Samuel,
Another: http://www.engineersedge.com/torque.htm
T = Torque required (inch pounds)
F = Bolt tension desired (Axial Load) (pounds).
D = Nominal bolt diameter. (major dia.)
EQUATION: T = .2 D F (Dry)
As a Hot Rodder I assume all bolts and nuts to be oiled as that's
pot I drop them into, like just before I install a piston it is soaked
to ring depth in a pan full of oil. Torqued to my manuals specs, or look
for a site on the internet: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Samuel Devlin wrote:
>
> Found this on the net:
>
> "Since dry vs wet can vary greatly, any structural bolts that would be
> torqued under my supervision must be done per the AISC Calibrated torque
> wrench method to verify proper tension. But since you people are mere
> peons, not able to fully appreciate a Wilhelm-Skidmore bolt tensioner, I
> would go off the following rule of thumb torque formula:
>
> T=(KDW)/12=foot-pounds
>
> where T= torque
> K=friction factor
> D= Nominal bolt diameter in decimal inches
> W=clamp load in pounds
> K=0.30 for nonplated fasteners, black finish
> K=0.20 for electrodeposited zinc coatings
> K=0.15-0.18 for oils
> K=0.16 for cadmium electrodeposited coatings
> K=0.12 for copper anti-seize compound
>
> Standard practice is to tighten a bolt to 70-75% of the proof load. Proof
> load is the point where a bolt will permanently deform more than 2%.
>
> Let me know if you need any more schooling.
>
> Jay
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2002 11:30:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> JCrisler@corvis.com writes:"
Another: http://www.engineersedge.com/torque.htm
T = Torque required (inch pounds)
F = Bolt tension desired (Axial Load) (pounds).
D = Nominal bolt diameter. (major dia.)
EQUATION: T = .2 D F (Dry)
As a Hot Rodder I assume all bolts and nuts to be oiled as that's
pot I drop them into, like just before I install a piston it is soaked
to ring depth in a pan full of oil. Torqued to my manuals specs, or look
for a site on the internet: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Samuel Devlin wrote:
>
> Found this on the net:
>
> "Since dry vs wet can vary greatly, any structural bolts that would be
> torqued under my supervision must be done per the AISC Calibrated torque
> wrench method to verify proper tension. But since you people are mere
> peons, not able to fully appreciate a Wilhelm-Skidmore bolt tensioner, I
> would go off the following rule of thumb torque formula:
>
> T=(KDW)/12=foot-pounds
>
> where T= torque
> K=friction factor
> D= Nominal bolt diameter in decimal inches
> W=clamp load in pounds
> K=0.30 for nonplated fasteners, black finish
> K=0.20 for electrodeposited zinc coatings
> K=0.15-0.18 for oils
> K=0.16 for cadmium electrodeposited coatings
> K=0.12 for copper anti-seize compound
>
> Standard practice is to tighten a bolt to 70-75% of the proof load. Proof
> load is the point where a bolt will permanently deform more than 2%.
>
> Let me know if you need any more schooling.
>
> Jay
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2002 11:30:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> JCrisler@corvis.com writes:"
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Hi Samuel,
Another: http://www.engineersedge.com/torque.htm
T = Torque required (inch pounds)
F = Bolt tension desired (Axial Load) (pounds).
D = Nominal bolt diameter. (major dia.)
EQUATION: T = .2 D F (Dry)
As a Hot Rodder I assume all bolts and nuts to be oiled as that's
pot I drop them into, like just before I install a piston it is soaked
to ring depth in a pan full of oil. Torqued to my manuals specs, or look
for a site on the internet: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Samuel Devlin wrote:
>
> Found this on the net:
>
> "Since dry vs wet can vary greatly, any structural bolts that would be
> torqued under my supervision must be done per the AISC Calibrated torque
> wrench method to verify proper tension. But since you people are mere
> peons, not able to fully appreciate a Wilhelm-Skidmore bolt tensioner, I
> would go off the following rule of thumb torque formula:
>
> T=(KDW)/12=foot-pounds
>
> where T= torque
> K=friction factor
> D= Nominal bolt diameter in decimal inches
> W=clamp load in pounds
> K=0.30 for nonplated fasteners, black finish
> K=0.20 for electrodeposited zinc coatings
> K=0.15-0.18 for oils
> K=0.16 for cadmium electrodeposited coatings
> K=0.12 for copper anti-seize compound
>
> Standard practice is to tighten a bolt to 70-75% of the proof load. Proof
> load is the point where a bolt will permanently deform more than 2%.
>
> Let me know if you need any more schooling.
>
> Jay
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2002 11:30:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> JCrisler@corvis.com writes:"
Another: http://www.engineersedge.com/torque.htm
T = Torque required (inch pounds)
F = Bolt tension desired (Axial Load) (pounds).
D = Nominal bolt diameter. (major dia.)
EQUATION: T = .2 D F (Dry)
As a Hot Rodder I assume all bolts and nuts to be oiled as that's
pot I drop them into, like just before I install a piston it is soaked
to ring depth in a pan full of oil. Torqued to my manuals specs, or look
for a site on the internet: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Samuel Devlin wrote:
>
> Found this on the net:
>
> "Since dry vs wet can vary greatly, any structural bolts that would be
> torqued under my supervision must be done per the AISC Calibrated torque
> wrench method to verify proper tension. But since you people are mere
> peons, not able to fully appreciate a Wilhelm-Skidmore bolt tensioner, I
> would go off the following rule of thumb torque formula:
>
> T=(KDW)/12=foot-pounds
>
> where T= torque
> K=friction factor
> D= Nominal bolt diameter in decimal inches
> W=clamp load in pounds
> K=0.30 for nonplated fasteners, black finish
> K=0.20 for electrodeposited zinc coatings
> K=0.15-0.18 for oils
> K=0.16 for cadmium electrodeposited coatings
> K=0.12 for copper anti-seize compound
>
> Standard practice is to tighten a bolt to 70-75% of the proof load. Proof
> load is the point where a bolt will permanently deform more than 2%.
>
> Let me know if you need any more schooling.
>
> Jay
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2002 11:30:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> JCrisler@corvis.com writes:"
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Hi Samuel,
Another: http://www.engineersedge.com/torque.htm
T = Torque required (inch pounds)
F = Bolt tension desired (Axial Load) (pounds).
D = Nominal bolt diameter. (major dia.)
EQUATION: T = .2 D F (Dry)
As a Hot Rodder I assume all bolts and nuts to be oiled as that's
pot I drop them into, like just before I install a piston it is soaked
to ring depth in a pan full of oil. Torqued to my manuals specs, or look
for a site on the internet: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Samuel Devlin wrote:
>
> Found this on the net:
>
> "Since dry vs wet can vary greatly, any structural bolts that would be
> torqued under my supervision must be done per the AISC Calibrated torque
> wrench method to verify proper tension. But since you people are mere
> peons, not able to fully appreciate a Wilhelm-Skidmore bolt tensioner, I
> would go off the following rule of thumb torque formula:
>
> T=(KDW)/12=foot-pounds
>
> where T= torque
> K=friction factor
> D= Nominal bolt diameter in decimal inches
> W=clamp load in pounds
> K=0.30 for nonplated fasteners, black finish
> K=0.20 for electrodeposited zinc coatings
> K=0.15-0.18 for oils
> K=0.16 for cadmium electrodeposited coatings
> K=0.12 for copper anti-seize compound
>
> Standard practice is to tighten a bolt to 70-75% of the proof load. Proof
> load is the point where a bolt will permanently deform more than 2%.
>
> Let me know if you need any more schooling.
>
> Jay
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2002 11:30:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> JCrisler@corvis.com writes:"
Another: http://www.engineersedge.com/torque.htm
T = Torque required (inch pounds)
F = Bolt tension desired (Axial Load) (pounds).
D = Nominal bolt diameter. (major dia.)
EQUATION: T = .2 D F (Dry)
As a Hot Rodder I assume all bolts and nuts to be oiled as that's
pot I drop them into, like just before I install a piston it is soaked
to ring depth in a pan full of oil. Torqued to my manuals specs, or look
for a site on the internet: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Samuel Devlin wrote:
>
> Found this on the net:
>
> "Since dry vs wet can vary greatly, any structural bolts that would be
> torqued under my supervision must be done per the AISC Calibrated torque
> wrench method to verify proper tension. But since you people are mere
> peons, not able to fully appreciate a Wilhelm-Skidmore bolt tensioner, I
> would go off the following rule of thumb torque formula:
>
> T=(KDW)/12=foot-pounds
>
> where T= torque
> K=friction factor
> D= Nominal bolt diameter in decimal inches
> W=clamp load in pounds
> K=0.30 for nonplated fasteners, black finish
> K=0.20 for electrodeposited zinc coatings
> K=0.15-0.18 for oils
> K=0.16 for cadmium electrodeposited coatings
> K=0.12 for copper anti-seize compound
>
> Standard practice is to tighten a bolt to 70-75% of the proof load. Proof
> load is the point where a bolt will permanently deform more than 2%.
>
> Let me know if you need any more schooling.
>
> Jay
>
> In a message dated 6/28/2002 11:30:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> JCrisler@corvis.com writes:"
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Funny thing is that in the past, when I have had to install replacement
studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
a bad thing.
Regards,
DAve
studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
a bad thing.
Regards,
DAve
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Funny thing is that in the past, when I have had to install replacement
studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
a bad thing.
Regards,
DAve
studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
a bad thing.
Regards,
DAve
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Funny thing is that in the past, when I have had to install replacement
studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
a bad thing.
Regards,
DAve
studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
a bad thing.
Regards,
DAve
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
Funny thing is that in the past, when I have had to install replacement
studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
a bad thing.
Regards,
DAve
studs on cars, the replacements came new with some sort of lube on them.
You could feel it! IIRC those were TRW parts, purchased new from a very
well regarded local part store/engine rebuilding shop.
So, I'd say a very small, well distributed touch of grease should not be
a bad thing.
Regards,
DAve
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel stud lubrication - good or bad?
rufus t wrote:
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in
> news:4421B92B.BD71F271@sympatico.ca:
>
> > I live in the rust belt where everything rots long before it wears out
> > and always go dry with capped nuts. With open nuts, I have used
> > grease on top after it is tightened down.
> >
> > I have antiseize and use it everywhere else, but still not on wheel
> > nuts.
> >
> > We just had to remove all my wheels a couple days ago and they came
> > off easily. It's been a while since they were removed....
> >
> > Anyhow, just be aware that antiseize is considered a 'wet' torque.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
> OK, so I would assume that using lock-tite would be a wet torque as well.
> Are the (for example) motor-mount bolts I just torqued to 40 lbs too tight
> because I used lock-tight?
>
> How much of an adjustment would you need to make in the torque when using a
> wet torque?
>
> rufus
Someone posted a list here a while back. When I rebuilt my CJ7 I went
about 30% less on the ones with antiseize and loctite on them. I didn't
snap anything and nothing fell off. I have pulled apart a lot of things
over the years and can sure 'feel' the difference when tightening up dry
or lubed threads. I learned way back that I can snap off greased up
bolts very easily....
I had to remove my spindle this week and all the nuts came off easy as
well as the spindle popped out fairly easily. A couple thumps and out
it came. The 5 or 6 year old antiseize was still in evidence.
Engine mount bolts are 'special' it would seem. I have heard of folks
that just plain can't tighten them right so they always end up with
snapped ones.
Snapped ones imply they were either loose so were subjected to vibration
impact or they were over tightened and subjected to stretching
fractures. I suspect the second due to cussing about even using thread
seal on them....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in
> news:4421B92B.BD71F271@sympatico.ca:
>
> > I live in the rust belt where everything rots long before it wears out
> > and always go dry with capped nuts. With open nuts, I have used
> > grease on top after it is tightened down.
> >
> > I have antiseize and use it everywhere else, but still not on wheel
> > nuts.
> >
> > We just had to remove all my wheels a couple days ago and they came
> > off easily. It's been a while since they were removed....
> >
> > Anyhow, just be aware that antiseize is considered a 'wet' torque.
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
> OK, so I would assume that using lock-tite would be a wet torque as well.
> Are the (for example) motor-mount bolts I just torqued to 40 lbs too tight
> because I used lock-tight?
>
> How much of an adjustment would you need to make in the torque when using a
> wet torque?
>
> rufus
Someone posted a list here a while back. When I rebuilt my CJ7 I went
about 30% less on the ones with antiseize and loctite on them. I didn't
snap anything and nothing fell off. I have pulled apart a lot of things
over the years and can sure 'feel' the difference when tightening up dry
or lubed threads. I learned way back that I can snap off greased up
bolts very easily....
I had to remove my spindle this week and all the nuts came off easy as
well as the spindle popped out fairly easily. A couple thumps and out
it came. The 5 or 6 year old antiseize was still in evidence.
Engine mount bolts are 'special' it would seem. I have heard of folks
that just plain can't tighten them right so they always end up with
snapped ones.
Snapped ones imply they were either loose so were subjected to vibration
impact or they were over tightened and subjected to stretching
fractures. I suspect the second due to cussing about even using thread
seal on them....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
