Wheel Bearings
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearings
You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
> quickly.
> I will have to dig it up and post it here if anyone is interested.
> Something about leaving the wheel attached, loosen the axle nut so it can be
> removed with an impact, remove the three hub bolts and the two caliper
> bolts. Then use a prybar against the wheel and the tie rod joint. The hub
> should pop off easily, but you have to be very careful with any ABS sensors.
> I would probably leave the hubs bolts partially screwed in to limit the hub
> from coming out too far.
> I was told that this method only takes 0.5-1 hour to completely do one side.
> Sounds good doesn't it!
> I need to do my right side u-joint on my 88 XJ, so I will be trying this
> method out! <g>
>
> I am also researching what it takes to rebuild these hubs and to make them
> greaseable thanks to Jim's procedure for drilling a hole and tapping for a
> grease nipple for regreasing the bearings.
> I already have a 90 XJ hub and 88 XJ hub to try out along with the Jeep hub
> service tool kit. This may be a winter project when I have more spare time
> to play around.
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> Living in the rust belt
easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
> quickly.
> I will have to dig it up and post it here if anyone is interested.
> Something about leaving the wheel attached, loosen the axle nut so it can be
> removed with an impact, remove the three hub bolts and the two caliper
> bolts. Then use a prybar against the wheel and the tie rod joint. The hub
> should pop off easily, but you have to be very careful with any ABS sensors.
> I would probably leave the hubs bolts partially screwed in to limit the hub
> from coming out too far.
> I was told that this method only takes 0.5-1 hour to completely do one side.
> Sounds good doesn't it!
> I need to do my right side u-joint on my 88 XJ, so I will be trying this
> method out! <g>
>
> I am also researching what it takes to rebuild these hubs and to make them
> greaseable thanks to Jim's procedure for drilling a hole and tapping for a
> grease nipple for regreasing the bearings.
> I already have a 90 XJ hub and 88 XJ hub to try out along with the Jeep hub
> service tool kit. This may be a winter project when I have more spare time
> to play around.
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> Living in the rust belt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearings
You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
> quickly.
> I will have to dig it up and post it here if anyone is interested.
> Something about leaving the wheel attached, loosen the axle nut so it can be
> removed with an impact, remove the three hub bolts and the two caliper
> bolts. Then use a prybar against the wheel and the tie rod joint. The hub
> should pop off easily, but you have to be very careful with any ABS sensors.
> I would probably leave the hubs bolts partially screwed in to limit the hub
> from coming out too far.
> I was told that this method only takes 0.5-1 hour to completely do one side.
> Sounds good doesn't it!
> I need to do my right side u-joint on my 88 XJ, so I will be trying this
> method out! <g>
>
> I am also researching what it takes to rebuild these hubs and to make them
> greaseable thanks to Jim's procedure for drilling a hole and tapping for a
> grease nipple for regreasing the bearings.
> I already have a 90 XJ hub and 88 XJ hub to try out along with the Jeep hub
> service tool kit. This may be a winter project when I have more spare time
> to play around.
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> Living in the rust belt
easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
> quickly.
> I will have to dig it up and post it here if anyone is interested.
> Something about leaving the wheel attached, loosen the axle nut so it can be
> removed with an impact, remove the three hub bolts and the two caliper
> bolts. Then use a prybar against the wheel and the tie rod joint. The hub
> should pop off easily, but you have to be very careful with any ABS sensors.
> I would probably leave the hubs bolts partially screwed in to limit the hub
> from coming out too far.
> I was told that this method only takes 0.5-1 hour to completely do one side.
> Sounds good doesn't it!
> I need to do my right side u-joint on my 88 XJ, so I will be trying this
> method out! <g>
>
> I am also researching what it takes to rebuild these hubs and to make them
> greaseable thanks to Jim's procedure for drilling a hole and tapping for a
> grease nipple for regreasing the bearings.
> I already have a 90 XJ hub and 88 XJ hub to try out along with the Jeep hub
> service tool kit. This may be a winter project when I have more spare time
> to play around.
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> Living in the rust belt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearings
You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
> quickly.
> I will have to dig it up and post it here if anyone is interested.
> Something about leaving the wheel attached, loosen the axle nut so it can be
> removed with an impact, remove the three hub bolts and the two caliper
> bolts. Then use a prybar against the wheel and the tie rod joint. The hub
> should pop off easily, but you have to be very careful with any ABS sensors.
> I would probably leave the hubs bolts partially screwed in to limit the hub
> from coming out too far.
> I was told that this method only takes 0.5-1 hour to completely do one side.
> Sounds good doesn't it!
> I need to do my right side u-joint on my 88 XJ, so I will be trying this
> method out! <g>
>
> I am also researching what it takes to rebuild these hubs and to make them
> greaseable thanks to Jim's procedure for drilling a hole and tapping for a
> grease nipple for regreasing the bearings.
> I already have a 90 XJ hub and 88 XJ hub to try out along with the Jeep hub
> service tool kit. This may be a winter project when I have more spare time
> to play around.
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> Living in the rust belt
easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> Someone just posted a very easy and logical method to change these hubs
> quickly.
> I will have to dig it up and post it here if anyone is interested.
> Something about leaving the wheel attached, loosen the axle nut so it can be
> removed with an impact, remove the three hub bolts and the two caliper
> bolts. Then use a prybar against the wheel and the tie rod joint. The hub
> should pop off easily, but you have to be very careful with any ABS sensors.
> I would probably leave the hubs bolts partially screwed in to limit the hub
> from coming out too far.
> I was told that this method only takes 0.5-1 hour to completely do one side.
> Sounds good doesn't it!
> I need to do my right side u-joint on my 88 XJ, so I will be trying this
> method out! <g>
>
> I am also researching what it takes to rebuild these hubs and to make them
> greaseable thanks to Jim's procedure for drilling a hole and tapping for a
> grease nipple for regreasing the bearings.
> I already have a 90 XJ hub and 88 XJ hub to try out along with the Jeep hub
> service tool kit. This may be a winter project when I have more spare time
> to play around.
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
> Living in the rust belt
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearings
No I really think that he meant to unbolt the caliper and let it stay in
it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
done it or has seen it done! ;-)
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
done it or has seen it done! ;-)
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearings
No I really think that he meant to unbolt the caliper and let it stay in
it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
done it or has seen it done! ;-)
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
done it or has seen it done! ;-)
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearings
No I really think that he meant to unbolt the caliper and let it stay in
it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
done it or has seen it done! ;-)
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
done it or has seen it done! ;-)
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearings
I have seen those hubs on tight enough that the method outlined would
likely break the rim as Bill is warning about.
The guy is saying to use the rim to pry the hub out with.
I do 'not' think this is a good way to do it. I think it is a backyard
hack that will get very expensive for someone when it fails.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> No I really think that he meant to unbolt the caliper and let it stay in
> it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
> Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
> done it or has seen it done! ;-)
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> > You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> > easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> > a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
likely break the rim as Bill is warning about.
The guy is saying to use the rim to pry the hub out with.
I do 'not' think this is a good way to do it. I think it is a backyard
hack that will get very expensive for someone when it fails.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> No I really think that he meant to unbolt the caliper and let it stay in
> it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
> Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
> done it or has seen it done! ;-)
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> > You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> > easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> > a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearings
I have seen those hubs on tight enough that the method outlined would
likely break the rim as Bill is warning about.
The guy is saying to use the rim to pry the hub out with.
I do 'not' think this is a good way to do it. I think it is a backyard
hack that will get very expensive for someone when it fails.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> No I really think that he meant to unbolt the caliper and let it stay in
> it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
> Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
> done it or has seen it done! ;-)
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> > You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> > easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> > a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
likely break the rim as Bill is warning about.
The guy is saying to use the rim to pry the hub out with.
I do 'not' think this is a good way to do it. I think it is a backyard
hack that will get very expensive for someone when it fails.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> No I really think that he meant to unbolt the caliper and let it stay in
> it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
> Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
> done it or has seen it done! ;-)
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> > You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> > easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> > a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearings
I have seen those hubs on tight enough that the method outlined would
likely break the rim as Bill is warning about.
The guy is saying to use the rim to pry the hub out with.
I do 'not' think this is a good way to do it. I think it is a backyard
hack that will get very expensive for someone when it fails.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> No I really think that he meant to unbolt the caliper and let it stay in
> it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
> Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
> done it or has seen it done! ;-)
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> > You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> > easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> > a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
likely break the rim as Bill is warning about.
The guy is saying to use the rim to pry the hub out with.
I do 'not' think this is a good way to do it. I think it is a backyard
hack that will get very expensive for someone when it fails.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>
> No I really think that he meant to unbolt the caliper and let it stay in
> it's position only for the moment so the caliper will be loose.
> Not my method, but it does seem feasible and Derrick says that he has either
> done it or has seen it done! ;-)
>
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:415DF99F.5B1F262@***.net...
> > You mean bolting the wheel back on after you pull the caliber. Go
> > easy on the rim, it wasn't designed to take leverage. I like the beat on
> > a paint scraper, others like to beat on the loosen three bolts.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Wheel Bearings
hmmm OK & thanks for the warning, but what is the official method?
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:415ED517.7C693855@sympatico.ca...
>I have seen those hubs on tight enough that the method outlined would
> likely break the rim as Bill is warning about.
>
> The guy is saying to use the rim to pry the hub out with.
>
> I do 'not' think this is a good way to do it. I think it is a backyard
> hack that will get very expensive for someone when it fails.
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:415ED517.7C693855@sympatico.ca...
>I have seen those hubs on tight enough that the method outlined would
> likely break the rim as Bill is warning about.
>
> The guy is saying to use the rim to pry the hub out with.
>
> I do 'not' think this is a good way to do it. I think it is a backyard
> hack that will get very expensive for someone when it fails.