Buy the best pop rivet tool that you can afford or justify. The jaws wear
out on the cheap ones, before you are even done with the job.

Earle

"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:14398$448071b3$48311525$29687@FUSE.NET...
> Pop rivet tools are available at any hardware store, inexpensive ones are
> less than $10. The rivets themselves are extremely inexpensive and also
> available everywhere.
>
> http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...?keyword=rivet
>
>
> <eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
> news:1149265055.586135.156050@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
> >I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> > it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> > requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> > would be expensive to get started.
> >
> > I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> > screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> > tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> > sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> > support box/channel peices to the bottom?
> >
> > My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> > money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> > Land this summer =[
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >
>
>

 

Buy the best pop rivet tool that you can afford or justify. The jaws wear
out on the cheap ones, before you are even done with the job.

Earle

"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:14398$448071b3$48311525$29687@FUSE.NET...
> Pop rivet tools are available at any hardware store, inexpensive ones are
> less than $10. The rivets themselves are extremely inexpensive and also
> available everywhere.
>
> http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...?keyword=rivet
>
>
> <eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
> news:1149265055.586135.156050@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
> >I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> > it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> > requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> > would be expensive to get started.
> >
> > I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> > screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> > tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> > sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> > support box/channel peices to the bottom?
> >
> > My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> > money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> > Land this summer =[
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >
>
>

 

Buy the best pop rivet tool that you can afford or justify. The jaws wear
out on the cheap ones, before you are even done with the job.

Earle

"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:14398$448071b3$48311525$29687@FUSE.NET...
> Pop rivet tools are available at any hardware store, inexpensive ones are
> less than $10. The rivets themselves are extremely inexpensive and also
> available everywhere.
>
> http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...?keyword=rivet
>
>
> <eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
> news:1149265055.586135.156050@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
> >I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> > it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> > requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> > would be expensive to get started.
> >
> > I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> > screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> > tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> > sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> > support box/channel peices to the bottom?
> >
> > My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> > money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> > Land this summer =[
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> >> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
> >>
> >> Earle
> >>
> >
>
>

 

Thanks. I had only looked at Lowe's and Home Depot (Home improvement
stores), since I'm at those stores all of the time anyway (wish I was
at jeep stores and auto parts all of the time, but not the case). I do
buy tools at Sears sometimes, so I'll probably go there.

I ended up going with a simple nuts and bolts repair for now. Actually
started over the weekend, but haven't finished just yet. Still glad to
have the other details since I'll be doing more work in the near
future, which I'll want to be a more permanent fix. For now I got 1
1/2" x 1/8" flat steel, and some 1 1/2" x 3/4" rectangle steel tubing.
The tubing matches the height of the rusted channel on the bottom of
the tub, pretty well. I'll run that along the bottom, and the flat
stock on the top/inside of the tub, and just sandwich the old sheet
metal. I laid it out so that the new steel has two bolts in each so I
don't have to worry about them turning/moving. The bolts go from the
top down, through:

New 1/8" flat steel
Original tub sheet metal
3/4" rectangle tubing
Rubber bushings (about 1/2" thick)
Mounts on the frame

I'm using carriage bolts, so at least the head is round and you wouln't
notice it too much under the carpet. I cut square holes in the 1/8"
flat steel to hold the bolt, so that it doesn't turn while I screw on
the nut.

Also, the jeep tub originally had 12 bolts holding it down. I'll have
10 now (all but the 2 in the very front). For the last six years I've
only had 4 to 6, and only 2 bolts actually had nuts for the last year
or so... I think I should be fine now. =]

Will Honea wrote:
> I did the floors in an old Scout with pop rivets and 16 ga. cold
> rolled sheet. Takes a drill, a fair supply of GOOD drill bits the
> right size, and a hand rivet tool. Best one I've used was from Sears,
> about $12 (several years back).

 

Thanks. I had only looked at Lowe's and Home Depot (Home improvement
stores), since I'm at those stores all of the time anyway (wish I was
at jeep stores and auto parts all of the time, but not the case). I do
buy tools at Sears sometimes, so I'll probably go there.

I ended up going with a simple nuts and bolts repair for now. Actually
started over the weekend, but haven't finished just yet. Still glad to
have the other details since I'll be doing more work in the near
future, which I'll want to be a more permanent fix. For now I got 1
1/2" x 1/8" flat steel, and some 1 1/2" x 3/4" rectangle steel tubing.
The tubing matches the height of the rusted channel on the bottom of
the tub, pretty well. I'll run that along the bottom, and the flat
stock on the top/inside of the tub, and just sandwich the old sheet
metal. I laid it out so that the new steel has two bolts in each so I
don't have to worry about them turning/moving. The bolts go from the
top down, through:

New 1/8" flat steel
Original tub sheet metal
3/4" rectangle tubing
Rubber bushings (about 1/2" thick)
Mounts on the frame

I'm using carriage bolts, so at least the head is round and you wouln't
notice it too much under the carpet. I cut square holes in the 1/8"
flat steel to hold the bolt, so that it doesn't turn while I screw on
the nut.

Also, the jeep tub originally had 12 bolts holding it down. I'll have
10 now (all but the 2 in the very front). For the last six years I've
only had 4 to 6, and only 2 bolts actually had nuts for the last year
or so... I think I should be fine now. =]

Will Honea wrote:
> I did the floors in an old Scout with pop rivets and 16 ga. cold
> rolled sheet. Takes a drill, a fair supply of GOOD drill bits the
> right size, and a hand rivet tool. Best one I've used was from Sears,
> about $12 (several years back).

 

Thanks. I had only looked at Lowe's and Home Depot (Home improvement
stores), since I'm at those stores all of the time anyway (wish I was
at jeep stores and auto parts all of the time, but not the case). I do
buy tools at Sears sometimes, so I'll probably go there.

I ended up going with a simple nuts and bolts repair for now. Actually
started over the weekend, but haven't finished just yet. Still glad to
have the other details since I'll be doing more work in the near
future, which I'll want to be a more permanent fix. For now I got 1
1/2" x 1/8" flat steel, and some 1 1/2" x 3/4" rectangle steel tubing.
The tubing matches the height of the rusted channel on the bottom of
the tub, pretty well. I'll run that along the bottom, and the flat
stock on the top/inside of the tub, and just sandwich the old sheet
metal. I laid it out so that the new steel has two bolts in each so I
don't have to worry about them turning/moving. The bolts go from the
top down, through:

New 1/8" flat steel
Original tub sheet metal
3/4" rectangle tubing
Rubber bushings (about 1/2" thick)
Mounts on the frame

I'm using carriage bolts, so at least the head is round and you wouln't
notice it too much under the carpet. I cut square holes in the 1/8"
flat steel to hold the bolt, so that it doesn't turn while I screw on
the nut.

Also, the jeep tub originally had 12 bolts holding it down. I'll have
10 now (all but the 2 in the very front). For the last six years I've
only had 4 to 6, and only 2 bolts actually had nuts for the last year
or so... I think I should be fine now. =]

Will Honea wrote:
> I did the floors in an old Scout with pop rivets and 16 ga. cold
> rolled sheet. Takes a drill, a fair supply of GOOD drill bits the
> right size, and a hand rivet tool. Best one I've used was from Sears,
> about $12 (several years back).

 

Kinda like when my dad went to put headers on the V6 in his CJ5... they
needed more room so they went to loosen the body mounts.... found that
only 1 was actually attached to both frame and body... well the Jeep
never hit the road after that.. body went in the dumpster in about 4
pieces and the frame sat behind the wood pile for about 15 years until
it went to the scrap yard.

In article <1149535759.461389.300520@h76g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:

> Also, the jeep tub originally had 12 bolts holding it down. I'll have
> 10 now (all but the 2 in the very front). For the last six years I've
> only had 4 to 6, and only 2 bolts actually had nuts for the last year
> or so... I think I should be fine now. =]

--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

 

Kinda like when my dad went to put headers on the V6 in his CJ5... they
needed more room so they went to loosen the body mounts.... found that
only 1 was actually attached to both frame and body... well the Jeep
never hit the road after that.. body went in the dumpster in about 4
pieces and the frame sat behind the wood pile for about 15 years until
it went to the scrap yard.

In article <1149535759.461389.300520@h76g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:

> Also, the jeep tub originally had 12 bolts holding it down. I'll have
> 10 now (all but the 2 in the very front). For the last six years I've
> only had 4 to 6, and only 2 bolts actually had nuts for the last year
> or so... I think I should be fine now. =]

--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)

 

Kinda like when my dad went to put headers on the V6 in his CJ5... they
needed more room so they went to loosen the body mounts.... found that
only 1 was actually attached to both frame and body... well the Jeep
never hit the road after that.. body went in the dumpster in about 4
pieces and the frame sat behind the wood pile for about 15 years until
it went to the scrap yard.

In article <1149535759.461389.300520@h76g2000cwa.googlegroups .com>,
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:

> Also, the jeep tub originally had 12 bolts holding it down. I'll have
> 10 now (all but the 2 in the very front). For the last six years I've
> only had 4 to 6, and only 2 bolts actually had nuts for the last year
> or so... I think I should be fine now. =]

--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)