eselk@surfbest.net

I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
would be expensive to get started.

I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
support box/channel peices to the bottom?

My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
Land this summer =[

Earle Horton wrote:
> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
>
> Earle
>

billy ray

Pop rivet tools are available at any hardware store, inexpensive ones are
less than $10. The rivets themselves are extremely inexpensive and also
available everywhere.

http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...?keyword=rivet


<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149265055.586135.156050@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> would be expensive to get started.
>
> I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> support box/channel peices to the bottom?
>
> My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> Land this summer =[
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>

billy ray

Pop rivet tools are available at any hardware store, inexpensive ones are
less than $10. The rivets themselves are extremely inexpensive and also
available everywhere.

http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...?keyword=rivet


<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149265055.586135.156050@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> would be expensive to get started.
>
> I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> support box/channel peices to the bottom?
>
> My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> Land this summer =[
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>

billy ray

Pop rivet tools are available at any hardware store, inexpensive ones are
less than $10. The rivets themselves are extremely inexpensive and also
available everywhere.

http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearc...?keyword=rivet


<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1149265055.586135.156050@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> would be expensive to get started.
>
> I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> support box/channel peices to the bottom?
>
> My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> Land this summer =[
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>

Will Honea

I did the floors in an old Scout with pop rivets and 16 ga. cold
rolled sheet. Takes a drill, a fair supply of GOOD drill bits the
right size, and a hand rivet tool. Best one I've used was from Sears,
about $12 (several years back). You will need the drill for either
rivets or screws although they do make those self-drilling screws.
I've haven't had very good results from the self-drilling screws in
heavier guages, though - pre-drilling is usually quicker and more
certain.

Two suggestions for pop rivets or screws: get a good layer of sealer
between the old and new metal and seal the rivets so that the pop stem
doesn't fall out later. I have always used roofing cement as a sealer
and ------ it liberally all over any surface not exposed to direct
contact. Wipe down what squeezes out after riveting with mineral
spirits. Cheap and will outlast anything else I've tried, by messy to
work with. Works best when nice and warm.

The biggest hazard with any drilling is making sure you don't nick a
brake/fuel line or an electrical bundle down where you can't see it
<g>.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2006 16:17:35 UTC eselk@surfbest.net wrote:

> I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> would be expensive to get started.
>
> I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> support box/channel peices to the bottom?
>
> My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> Land this summer =[
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
> >
> > Earle
> >
>


--
Will Honea

Will Honea

I did the floors in an old Scout with pop rivets and 16 ga. cold
rolled sheet. Takes a drill, a fair supply of GOOD drill bits the
right size, and a hand rivet tool. Best one I've used was from Sears,
about $12 (several years back). You will need the drill for either
rivets or screws although they do make those self-drilling screws.
I've haven't had very good results from the self-drilling screws in
heavier guages, though - pre-drilling is usually quicker and more
certain.

Two suggestions for pop rivets or screws: get a good layer of sealer
between the old and new metal and seal the rivets so that the pop stem
doesn't fall out later. I have always used roofing cement as a sealer
and ------ it liberally all over any surface not exposed to direct
contact. Wipe down what squeezes out after riveting with mineral
spirits. Cheap and will outlast anything else I've tried, by messy to
work with. Works best when nice and warm.

The biggest hazard with any drilling is making sure you don't nick a
brake/fuel line or an electrical bundle down where you can't see it
<g>.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2006 16:17:35 UTC eselk@surfbest.net wrote:

> I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> would be expensive to get started.
>
> I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> support box/channel peices to the bottom?
>
> My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> Land this summer =[
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
> >
> > Earle
> >
>


--
Will Honea

Will Honea

I did the floors in an old Scout with pop rivets and 16 ga. cold
rolled sheet. Takes a drill, a fair supply of GOOD drill bits the
right size, and a hand rivet tool. Best one I've used was from Sears,
about $12 (several years back). You will need the drill for either
rivets or screws although they do make those self-drilling screws.
I've haven't had very good results from the self-drilling screws in
heavier guages, though - pre-drilling is usually quicker and more
certain.

Two suggestions for pop rivets or screws: get a good layer of sealer
between the old and new metal and seal the rivets so that the pop stem
doesn't fall out later. I have always used roofing cement as a sealer
and ------ it liberally all over any surface not exposed to direct
contact. Wipe down what squeezes out after riveting with mineral
spirits. Cheap and will outlast anything else I've tried, by messy to
work with. Works best when nice and warm.

The biggest hazard with any drilling is making sure you don't nick a
brake/fuel line or an electrical bundle down where you can't see it
<g>.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2006 16:17:35 UTC eselk@surfbest.net wrote:

> I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> would be expensive to get started.
>
> I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> support box/channel peices to the bottom?
>
> My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> Land this summer =[
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
> >
> > Earle
> >
>


--
Will Honea

Mike Romain

And to add a little to that, you still might want that stick to weld the
channel onto the new pieces. If you just tack it in places, then go
back and tack some more, and then again you are less likely to warp the
crap out of it.

I also haven't seen much better than roofing cement as a sealer also.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Will Honea wrote:
>
> I did the floors in an old Scout with pop rivets and 16 ga. cold
> rolled sheet. Takes a drill, a fair supply of GOOD drill bits the
> right size, and a hand rivet tool. Best one I've used was from Sears,
> about $12 (several years back). You will need the drill for either
> rivets or screws although they do make those self-drilling screws.
> I've haven't had very good results from the self-drilling screws in
> heavier guages, though - pre-drilling is usually quicker and more
> certain.
>
> Two suggestions for pop rivets or screws: get a good layer of sealer
> between the old and new metal and seal the rivets so that the pop stem
> doesn't fall out later. I have always used roofing cement as a sealer
> and ------ it liberally all over any surface not exposed to direct
> contact. Wipe down what squeezes out after riveting with mineral
> spirits. Cheap and will outlast anything else I've tried, by messy to
> work with. Works best when nice and warm.
>
> The biggest hazard with any drilling is making sure you don't nick a
> brake/fuel line or an electrical bundle down where you can't see it
> <g>.
>
> On Fri, 2 Jun 2006 16:17:35 UTC eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> > I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> > it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> > requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> > would be expensive to get started.
> >
> > I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> > screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> > tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> > sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> > support box/channel peices to the bottom?
> >
> > My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> > money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> > Land this summer =[
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> > > Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
> > >
> > > Earle
> > >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea

Mike Romain

And to add a little to that, you still might want that stick to weld the
channel onto the new pieces. If you just tack it in places, then go
back and tack some more, and then again you are less likely to warp the
crap out of it.

I also haven't seen much better than roofing cement as a sealer also.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Will Honea wrote:
>
> I did the floors in an old Scout with pop rivets and 16 ga. cold
> rolled sheet. Takes a drill, a fair supply of GOOD drill bits the
> right size, and a hand rivet tool. Best one I've used was from Sears,
> about $12 (several years back). You will need the drill for either
> rivets or screws although they do make those self-drilling screws.
> I've haven't had very good results from the self-drilling screws in
> heavier guages, though - pre-drilling is usually quicker and more
> certain.
>
> Two suggestions for pop rivets or screws: get a good layer of sealer
> between the old and new metal and seal the rivets so that the pop stem
> doesn't fall out later. I have always used roofing cement as a sealer
> and ------ it liberally all over any surface not exposed to direct
> contact. Wipe down what squeezes out after riveting with mineral
> spirits. Cheap and will outlast anything else I've tried, by messy to
> work with. Works best when nice and warm.
>
> The biggest hazard with any drilling is making sure you don't nick a
> brake/fuel line or an electrical bundle down where you can't see it
> <g>.
>
> On Fri, 2 Jun 2006 16:17:35 UTC eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> > I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> > it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> > requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> > would be expensive to get started.
> >
> > I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> > screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> > tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> > sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> > support box/channel peices to the bottom?
> >
> > My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> > money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> > Land this summer =[
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> > > Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
> > >
> > > Earle
> > >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea

Mike Romain

And to add a little to that, you still might want that stick to weld the
channel onto the new pieces. If you just tack it in places, then go
back and tack some more, and then again you are less likely to warp the
crap out of it.

I also haven't seen much better than roofing cement as a sealer also.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Will Honea wrote:
>
> I did the floors in an old Scout with pop rivets and 16 ga. cold
> rolled sheet. Takes a drill, a fair supply of GOOD drill bits the
> right size, and a hand rivet tool. Best one I've used was from Sears,
> about $12 (several years back). You will need the drill for either
> rivets or screws although they do make those self-drilling screws.
> I've haven't had very good results from the self-drilling screws in
> heavier guages, though - pre-drilling is usually quicker and more
> certain.
>
> Two suggestions for pop rivets or screws: get a good layer of sealer
> between the old and new metal and seal the rivets so that the pop stem
> doesn't fall out later. I have always used roofing cement as a sealer
> and ------ it liberally all over any surface not exposed to direct
> contact. Wipe down what squeezes out after riveting with mineral
> spirits. Cheap and will outlast anything else I've tried, by messy to
> work with. Works best when nice and warm.
>
> The biggest hazard with any drilling is making sure you don't nick a
> brake/fuel line or an electrical bundle down where you can't see it
> <g>.
>
> On Fri, 2 Jun 2006 16:17:35 UTC eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> > I guess I could Google search and find out, but since you mentioned
> > it.... Is there any cheap and easy way to do pop rivets? I imagine it
> > requires some special tools, so for someone without those tools, it
> > would be expensive to get started.
> >
> > I may have to though, because so far I'm finding another problem with
> > screws... I can only screw from the top down, because I don't want the
> > tips pointing up toward cargo or the gas tank. That works fine for the
> > sheet metal I want to put on top anyway, but then how do I attach the
> > support box/channel peices to the bottom?
> >
> > My weekend starts tomorrow, so I'll just do what I can. I'd have more
> > money if I didn't have to save for a jolly-old family trip to Disney
> > Land this summer =[
> >
> > Earle Horton wrote:
> > > Pop rivets work better than screws, and don't vibrate loose.
> > >
> > > Earle
> > >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea