What gauge steel, body repair?
06-01-2006, 11:48 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
Thanks for all of the info, from everyone. I'll be sure and try a test
on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
wire-feed.
Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
maybe the 20 is around $50.
Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
original.
DougW wrote:
> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>
> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
wire-feed.
Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
maybe the 20 is around $50.
Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
original.
DougW wrote:
> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>
> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
06-01-2006, 11:48 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
Thanks for all of the info, from everyone. I'll be sure and try a test
on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
wire-feed.
Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
maybe the 20 is around $50.
Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
original.
DougW wrote:
> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>
> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
wire-feed.
Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
maybe the 20 is around $50.
Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
original.
DougW wrote:
> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>
> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
06-01-2006, 11:48 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
Thanks for all of the info, from everyone. I'll be sure and try a test
on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
wire-feed.
Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
maybe the 20 is around $50.
Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
original.
DougW wrote:
> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>
> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
wire-feed.
Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
maybe the 20 is around $50.
Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
original.
DougW wrote:
> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>
> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
06-01-2006, 12:24 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
(#4074A52)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
> Thanks for all of the info, from everyone. I'll be sure and try a test
> on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
> not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
> my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
> wire-feed.
>
> Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
>
> I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
> should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
> maybe the 20 is around $50.
>
> Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
> of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
> is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
> and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
> original.
>
> DougW wrote:
>> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
>> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>>
>> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
>
is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
(#4074A52)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
> Thanks for all of the info, from everyone. I'll be sure and try a test
> on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
> not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
> my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
> wire-feed.
>
> Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
>
> I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
> should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
> maybe the 20 is around $50.
>
> Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
> of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
> is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
> and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
> original.
>
> DougW wrote:
>> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
>> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>>
>> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
>
06-01-2006, 12:24 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
(#4074A52)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
> Thanks for all of the info, from everyone. I'll be sure and try a test
> on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
> not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
> my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
> wire-feed.
>
> Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
>
> I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
> should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
> maybe the 20 is around $50.
>
> Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
> of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
> is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
> and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
> original.
>
> DougW wrote:
>> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
>> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>>
>> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
>
is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
(#4074A52)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
> Thanks for all of the info, from everyone. I'll be sure and try a test
> on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
> not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
> my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
> wire-feed.
>
> Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
>
> I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
> should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
> maybe the 20 is around $50.
>
> Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
> of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
> is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
> and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
> original.
>
> DougW wrote:
>> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
>> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>>
>> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
>
06-01-2006, 12:24 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
(#4074A52)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
> Thanks for all of the info, from everyone. I'll be sure and try a test
> on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
> not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
> my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
> wire-feed.
>
> Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
>
> I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
> should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
> maybe the 20 is around $50.
>
> Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
> of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
> is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
> and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
> original.
>
> DougW wrote:
>> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
>> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>>
>> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
>
is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
(#4074A52)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
> Thanks for all of the info, from everyone. I'll be sure and try a test
> on a scrap piece (I've got a couple laying around, luckily), but I'm
> not a pro or anything, so I imagine I will not be able to weld it with
> my ARC welder. Too bad my brother just moved far away, since he has a
> wire-feed.
>
> Guess I could do like the guy before me and use screws.
>
> I was thinking 10 or 12 gauge steel, but if it is really 20, then that
> should be even cheaper. The 12 gauge was $90 per sheet (4'x8'), so
> maybe the 20 is around $50.
>
> Whenever I think of spending almost $3000 on a new tub, I always think
> of something I'd rather spend the money on, like an engine swap, which
> is still next on my list. I'd probably go custom, with lots of tubes
> and full-roll cage, before spending that kind of money on something
> original.
>
> DougW wrote:
>> As others have said, stick is near impossible to work on sheet metal.
>> (at least for me) stick is better for large pipe/plate.
>>
>> MIG is what you need. That and a plasma cutter. :)
>
06-01-2006, 07:09 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
Clay wrote:
> 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> (#4074A52)
>
to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
Clay wrote:
> 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> (#4074A52)
>
06-01-2006, 07:09 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
Clay wrote:
> 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> (#4074A52)
>
to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
Clay wrote:
> 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> (#4074A52)
>
06-01-2006, 07:09 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
Clay wrote:
> 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> (#4074A52)
>
to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
Clay wrote:
> 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> (#4074A52)
>
06-01-2006, 07:45 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What gauge steel, body repair?
When I put my 'glass body on I used loctite on the nuts and they all
held perfectly with no rust because it is a sealed joint.
People do sell floor pan pieces for the tubs already made up. If you
are going to all that work anyway, cutting out all the crap and putting
in a new ready made piece would keep it going for a long time....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
held perfectly with no rust because it is a sealed joint.
People do sell floor pan pieces for the tubs already made up. If you
are going to all that work anyway, cutting out all the crap and putting
in a new ready made piece would keep it going for a long time....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
eselk@surfbest.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Clay, I hadn't thought much about the weight. I think I'm going
> to go with 20ga and just use screws. I'll just screw it over the top
> of the existing rusty mess. I'll be happy if it lasts for 2 years,
> because by then I'll be ready to do something else (some kind of new
> tub, either original or custom). My only real goal for now is to get
> rid of that loud noise when I go over speed bumps (sound of the body
> lifting up about an inch, then slamming back down on the frame). I got
> some new body mounts also, and this time I'm going to use lock nuts,
> because all of the nuts had fallen off of every last bolt which was
> holding on the body (the bolts were still there, keeping the body from
> sliding side to side). If it isn't too much work I'll actually drill
> holes in the bolts and use cotter pins to lock the nuts.
>
> Clay wrote:
> > 12 ga is 0.104" thick. you could stick weld that all day long. Problem
> > is, finding something to weld it to. I'm guessing the pan is 16 ga or 18
> > ga (.059"-.048") and you'll burn that up trying to stick weld it.
> > 12 ga is also 140# per sheet... you building a truck or a tank?
> > For 20 ga, screws or pop rivets would work but welds are forever.
> > Might look at one of these for cutting the sheetmetal... way cheaper
> > than a plasma torch and they rip through sheetmetal:
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/...e/4074ap1l.gif
> > (#4074A52)
> >
