Water Wetter
09-11-2003, 10:26 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Water Wetter
Zinc.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"A.H. MacIntosh aka USERNAME" wrote:
>
> many exotic cars with Aluminium radiators, and steel blocks use a
> sacrificial anode plug to stop electrolysis of the system components. I am
> unsure about any wetting agents, but the natural tendency for you cooling
> system to become a battery and dissolve itself is a worry greatly compounded
> by aluminium components.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"A.H. MacIntosh aka USERNAME" wrote:
>
> many exotic cars with Aluminium radiators, and steel blocks use a
> sacrificial anode plug to stop electrolysis of the system components. I am
> unsure about any wetting agents, but the natural tendency for you cooling
> system to become a battery and dissolve itself is a worry greatly compounded
> by aluminium components.
09-11-2003, 10:34 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Water Wetter
L.W. (ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Zinc.
Actually I think almost all radiators come
with Zinc anodes. Can't think of one I havn't
seen with one in there.
But some newer cars found a solution for corrosion. Make
the end caps out of plastic. :( I'm not sure that's
a solution.
> "A.H. MacIntosh aka USERNAME" wrote:
>>
>> many exotic cars with Aluminium radiators, and steel blocks use a
>> sacrificial anode plug to stop electrolysis of the system components. I am
>> unsure about any wetting agents, but the natural tendency for you cooling
>> system to become a battery and dissolve itself is a worry greatly compounded
>> by aluminium components.
> Zinc.
Actually I think almost all radiators come
with Zinc anodes. Can't think of one I havn't
seen with one in there.
But some newer cars found a solution for corrosion. Make
the end caps out of plastic. :( I'm not sure that's
a solution.
> "A.H. MacIntosh aka USERNAME" wrote:
>>
>> many exotic cars with Aluminium radiators, and steel blocks use a
>> sacrificial anode plug to stop electrolysis of the system components. I am
>> unsure about any wetting agents, but the natural tendency for you cooling
>> system to become a battery and dissolve itself is a worry greatly compounded
>> by aluminium components.
09-11-2003, 10:34 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Water Wetter
L.W. (ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Zinc.
Actually I think almost all radiators come
with Zinc anodes. Can't think of one I havn't
seen with one in there.
But some newer cars found a solution for corrosion. Make
the end caps out of plastic. :( I'm not sure that's
a solution.
> "A.H. MacIntosh aka USERNAME" wrote:
>>
>> many exotic cars with Aluminium radiators, and steel blocks use a
>> sacrificial anode plug to stop electrolysis of the system components. I am
>> unsure about any wetting agents, but the natural tendency for you cooling
>> system to become a battery and dissolve itself is a worry greatly compounded
>> by aluminium components.
> Zinc.
Actually I think almost all radiators come
with Zinc anodes. Can't think of one I havn't
seen with one in there.
But some newer cars found a solution for corrosion. Make
the end caps out of plastic. :( I'm not sure that's
a solution.
> "A.H. MacIntosh aka USERNAME" wrote:
>>
>> many exotic cars with Aluminium radiators, and steel blocks use a
>> sacrificial anode plug to stop electrolysis of the system components. I am
>> unsure about any wetting agents, but the natural tendency for you cooling
>> system to become a battery and dissolve itself is a worry greatly compounded
>> by aluminium components.
09-12-2003, 09:54 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Water Wetter
Joshua,
In a properly sized cooling system, the use of Red Line "Water Wetter" would
still be a benefit, but not one that is absolutley needed. This product is
not intended to fix a broken cooling system, but instead to maximize what
you have. The first thing one needs to do is make sure that everything is in
perfect working order, and is properly sized.
Running 100% water is simply the best thing you can do for maximun cooling.
Water can absorb more heat than coolant. However, if you are going to play
this game make sure that you don't get yourself into a situation where there
is any chance that your cooling system will freeze, because it will. I run
plain water and Water Wetter in the summer months (California Climate) and
50/50 coolant/water in the winter months.
I don't need to do this, as my cooling system is way over built and works
quite well, but just knowing that I am maximizing this make me feel better.
And it works. If you use your Jeep off road in situations where you are
crawling for extended periods of time, you need to over build and maximize.
If you run mostly on the street, this is less important.
RR
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309111216.5cea91c9@posting.google.c om...
> The recent thread on aluminum radiators inspired me to go back and
> look at some older discussions on radiators. One thing I saw
> mentioned frequently is that in warm climates, if cooling is an issue,
> you're better off running 100% water and maybe a bottle of water
> wetter, rather than the more common car mixture of 50/50 water and
> antifreeze. This is due to the better cooling properties of pure
> water.
>
> So far so good. BUT... in addition to preventing your coolant water
> from turning to ice, isn't there another very important function of
> antifreeze? Namely, it keeps the innards of your radiator from
> rusting. I would think that running mostly or 100% water all the time
> would turn your cooling system guts to sludge... wouldn't it?
In a properly sized cooling system, the use of Red Line "Water Wetter" would
still be a benefit, but not one that is absolutley needed. This product is
not intended to fix a broken cooling system, but instead to maximize what
you have. The first thing one needs to do is make sure that everything is in
perfect working order, and is properly sized.
Running 100% water is simply the best thing you can do for maximun cooling.
Water can absorb more heat than coolant. However, if you are going to play
this game make sure that you don't get yourself into a situation where there
is any chance that your cooling system will freeze, because it will. I run
plain water and Water Wetter in the summer months (California Climate) and
50/50 coolant/water in the winter months.
I don't need to do this, as my cooling system is way over built and works
quite well, but just knowing that I am maximizing this make me feel better.
And it works. If you use your Jeep off road in situations where you are
crawling for extended periods of time, you need to over build and maximize.
If you run mostly on the street, this is less important.
RR
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309111216.5cea91c9@posting.google.c om...
> The recent thread on aluminum radiators inspired me to go back and
> look at some older discussions on radiators. One thing I saw
> mentioned frequently is that in warm climates, if cooling is an issue,
> you're better off running 100% water and maybe a bottle of water
> wetter, rather than the more common car mixture of 50/50 water and
> antifreeze. This is due to the better cooling properties of pure
> water.
>
> So far so good. BUT... in addition to preventing your coolant water
> from turning to ice, isn't there another very important function of
> antifreeze? Namely, it keeps the innards of your radiator from
> rusting. I would think that running mostly or 100% water all the time
> would turn your cooling system guts to sludge... wouldn't it?
09-12-2003, 09:54 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Water Wetter
Joshua,
In a properly sized cooling system, the use of Red Line "Water Wetter" would
still be a benefit, but not one that is absolutley needed. This product is
not intended to fix a broken cooling system, but instead to maximize what
you have. The first thing one needs to do is make sure that everything is in
perfect working order, and is properly sized.
Running 100% water is simply the best thing you can do for maximun cooling.
Water can absorb more heat than coolant. However, if you are going to play
this game make sure that you don't get yourself into a situation where there
is any chance that your cooling system will freeze, because it will. I run
plain water and Water Wetter in the summer months (California Climate) and
50/50 coolant/water in the winter months.
I don't need to do this, as my cooling system is way over built and works
quite well, but just knowing that I am maximizing this make me feel better.
And it works. If you use your Jeep off road in situations where you are
crawling for extended periods of time, you need to over build and maximize.
If you run mostly on the street, this is less important.
RR
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309111216.5cea91c9@posting.google.c om...
> The recent thread on aluminum radiators inspired me to go back and
> look at some older discussions on radiators. One thing I saw
> mentioned frequently is that in warm climates, if cooling is an issue,
> you're better off running 100% water and maybe a bottle of water
> wetter, rather than the more common car mixture of 50/50 water and
> antifreeze. This is due to the better cooling properties of pure
> water.
>
> So far so good. BUT... in addition to preventing your coolant water
> from turning to ice, isn't there another very important function of
> antifreeze? Namely, it keeps the innards of your radiator from
> rusting. I would think that running mostly or 100% water all the time
> would turn your cooling system guts to sludge... wouldn't it?
In a properly sized cooling system, the use of Red Line "Water Wetter" would
still be a benefit, but not one that is absolutley needed. This product is
not intended to fix a broken cooling system, but instead to maximize what
you have. The first thing one needs to do is make sure that everything is in
perfect working order, and is properly sized.
Running 100% water is simply the best thing you can do for maximun cooling.
Water can absorb more heat than coolant. However, if you are going to play
this game make sure that you don't get yourself into a situation where there
is any chance that your cooling system will freeze, because it will. I run
plain water and Water Wetter in the summer months (California Climate) and
50/50 coolant/water in the winter months.
I don't need to do this, as my cooling system is way over built and works
quite well, but just knowing that I am maximizing this make me feel better.
And it works. If you use your Jeep off road in situations where you are
crawling for extended periods of time, you need to over build and maximize.
If you run mostly on the street, this is less important.
RR
"Joshua Nelson" <spam_box@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:b102b6e4.0309111216.5cea91c9@posting.google.c om...
> The recent thread on aluminum radiators inspired me to go back and
> look at some older discussions on radiators. One thing I saw
> mentioned frequently is that in warm climates, if cooling is an issue,
> you're better off running 100% water and maybe a bottle of water
> wetter, rather than the more common car mixture of 50/50 water and
> antifreeze. This is due to the better cooling properties of pure
> water.
>
> So far so good. BUT... in addition to preventing your coolant water
> from turning to ice, isn't there another very important function of
> antifreeze? Namely, it keeps the innards of your radiator from
> rusting. I would think that running mostly or 100% water all the time
> would turn your cooling system guts to sludge... wouldn't it?
09-12-2003, 10:45 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Water Wetter
I wouldn't chance running pure water, I remember selling rust
inhibitors that would stick the rust to the sides, and leave the water
clear for a while, but not long before the water would turn to mud. And
nowadays, with so much aluminum used the electrolysis would destroy
everything, instantly.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Red Racer wrote:
>
> Joshua,
>
> In a properly sized cooling system, the use of Red Line "Water Wetter" would
> still be a benefit, but not one that is absolutley needed. This product is
> not intended to fix a broken cooling system, but instead to maximize what
> you have. The first thing one needs to do is make sure that everything is in
> perfect working order, and is properly sized.
>
> Running 100% water is simply the best thing you can do for maximun cooling.
> Water can absorb more heat than coolant. However, if you are going to play
> this game make sure that you don't get yourself into a situation where there
> is any chance that your cooling system will freeze, because it will. I run
> plain water and Water Wetter in the summer months (California Climate) and
> 50/50 coolant/water in the winter months.
>
> I don't need to do this, as my cooling system is way over built and works
> quite well, but just knowing that I am maximizing this make me feel better.
> And it works. If you use your Jeep off road in situations where you are
> crawling for extended periods of time, you need to over build and maximize.
> If you run mostly on the street, this is less important.
>
> RR
inhibitors that would stick the rust to the sides, and leave the water
clear for a while, but not long before the water would turn to mud. And
nowadays, with so much aluminum used the electrolysis would destroy
everything, instantly.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Red Racer wrote:
>
> Joshua,
>
> In a properly sized cooling system, the use of Red Line "Water Wetter" would
> still be a benefit, but not one that is absolutley needed. This product is
> not intended to fix a broken cooling system, but instead to maximize what
> you have. The first thing one needs to do is make sure that everything is in
> perfect working order, and is properly sized.
>
> Running 100% water is simply the best thing you can do for maximun cooling.
> Water can absorb more heat than coolant. However, if you are going to play
> this game make sure that you don't get yourself into a situation where there
> is any chance that your cooling system will freeze, because it will. I run
> plain water and Water Wetter in the summer months (California Climate) and
> 50/50 coolant/water in the winter months.
>
> I don't need to do this, as my cooling system is way over built and works
> quite well, but just knowing that I am maximizing this make me feel better.
> And it works. If you use your Jeep off road in situations where you are
> crawling for extended periods of time, you need to over build and maximize.
> If you run mostly on the street, this is less important.
>
> RR
09-12-2003, 10:45 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Water Wetter
I wouldn't chance running pure water, I remember selling rust
inhibitors that would stick the rust to the sides, and leave the water
clear for a while, but not long before the water would turn to mud. And
nowadays, with so much aluminum used the electrolysis would destroy
everything, instantly.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Red Racer wrote:
>
> Joshua,
>
> In a properly sized cooling system, the use of Red Line "Water Wetter" would
> still be a benefit, but not one that is absolutley needed. This product is
> not intended to fix a broken cooling system, but instead to maximize what
> you have. The first thing one needs to do is make sure that everything is in
> perfect working order, and is properly sized.
>
> Running 100% water is simply the best thing you can do for maximun cooling.
> Water can absorb more heat than coolant. However, if you are going to play
> this game make sure that you don't get yourself into a situation where there
> is any chance that your cooling system will freeze, because it will. I run
> plain water and Water Wetter in the summer months (California Climate) and
> 50/50 coolant/water in the winter months.
>
> I don't need to do this, as my cooling system is way over built and works
> quite well, but just knowing that I am maximizing this make me feel better.
> And it works. If you use your Jeep off road in situations where you are
> crawling for extended periods of time, you need to over build and maximize.
> If you run mostly on the street, this is less important.
>
> RR
inhibitors that would stick the rust to the sides, and leave the water
clear for a while, but not long before the water would turn to mud. And
nowadays, with so much aluminum used the electrolysis would destroy
everything, instantly.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Red Racer wrote:
>
> Joshua,
>
> In a properly sized cooling system, the use of Red Line "Water Wetter" would
> still be a benefit, but not one that is absolutley needed. This product is
> not intended to fix a broken cooling system, but instead to maximize what
> you have. The first thing one needs to do is make sure that everything is in
> perfect working order, and is properly sized.
>
> Running 100% water is simply the best thing you can do for maximun cooling.
> Water can absorb more heat than coolant. However, if you are going to play
> this game make sure that you don't get yourself into a situation where there
> is any chance that your cooling system will freeze, because it will. I run
> plain water and Water Wetter in the summer months (California Climate) and
> 50/50 coolant/water in the winter months.
>
> I don't need to do this, as my cooling system is way over built and works
> quite well, but just knowing that I am maximizing this make me feel better.
> And it works. If you use your Jeep off road in situations where you are
> crawling for extended periods of time, you need to over build and maximize.
> If you run mostly on the street, this is less important.
>
> RR
09-12-2003, 11:14 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Water Wetter
> Periodically desalt/descale the
> engine/radiator with boiler descaler products such as Marsolve® or
> Rydlyme® (not muriatic or other inorganic acid).
How do you do this? Just put it in there, circulate, and then flush
the radiator? Or something more involved? I flush the radiator from
time to time, but have never heard of descaling before. This would
probably be a good practice to start implementing if I can figure out
how to do it.
Also, I didn't realize there was a different recommended
water/antifreeze mix for aluminum vs. copper radiators. Out of
curiosity, what ratio is typical for aluminum?
And FYI, I don't really have a problem with overheating, but I do run
about 210 and some of the responders in the other thread said that was
something to be nervous about, so I'm just thinking about overall ways
to cool more efficiently, not trying to sove a problem per se.
> engine/radiator with boiler descaler products such as Marsolve® or
> Rydlyme® (not muriatic or other inorganic acid).
How do you do this? Just put it in there, circulate, and then flush
the radiator? Or something more involved? I flush the radiator from
time to time, but have never heard of descaling before. This would
probably be a good practice to start implementing if I can figure out
how to do it.
Also, I didn't realize there was a different recommended
water/antifreeze mix for aluminum vs. copper radiators. Out of
curiosity, what ratio is typical for aluminum?
And FYI, I don't really have a problem with overheating, but I do run
about 210 and some of the responders in the other thread said that was
something to be nervous about, so I'm just thinking about overall ways
to cool more efficiently, not trying to sove a problem per se.
09-12-2003, 11:14 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Water Wetter
> Periodically desalt/descale the
> engine/radiator with boiler descaler products such as Marsolve® or
> Rydlyme® (not muriatic or other inorganic acid).
How do you do this? Just put it in there, circulate, and then flush
the radiator? Or something more involved? I flush the radiator from
time to time, but have never heard of descaling before. This would
probably be a good practice to start implementing if I can figure out
how to do it.
Also, I didn't realize there was a different recommended
water/antifreeze mix for aluminum vs. copper radiators. Out of
curiosity, what ratio is typical for aluminum?
And FYI, I don't really have a problem with overheating, but I do run
about 210 and some of the responders in the other thread said that was
something to be nervous about, so I'm just thinking about overall ways
to cool more efficiently, not trying to sove a problem per se.
> engine/radiator with boiler descaler products such as Marsolve® or
> Rydlyme® (not muriatic or other inorganic acid).
How do you do this? Just put it in there, circulate, and then flush
the radiator? Or something more involved? I flush the radiator from
time to time, but have never heard of descaling before. This would
probably be a good practice to start implementing if I can figure out
how to do it.
Also, I didn't realize there was a different recommended
water/antifreeze mix for aluminum vs. copper radiators. Out of
curiosity, what ratio is typical for aluminum?
And FYI, I don't really have a problem with overheating, but I do run
about 210 and some of the responders in the other thread said that was
something to be nervous about, so I'm just thinking about overall ways
to cool more efficiently, not trying to sove a problem per se.
09-12-2003, 01:52 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Water Wetter
Approximately 9/12/03 06:54, Red Racer uttered for posterity:
> Joshua,
>
> In a properly sized cooling system, the use of Red Line "Water Wetter" would
> still be a benefit, but not one that is absolutley needed. This product is
> not intended to fix a broken cooling system, but instead to maximize what
> you have. The first thing one needs to do is make sure that everything is in
> perfect working order, and is properly sized.
Plus you can buy even better stuff from Edmund Scientific for a
teeny fraction of the price. Main use is in commercial water
systems where it can cut the cost of pumping considerably. Can
also increase the range of fire hoses, sometimes used in tanker
trucks.
> Running 100% water is simply the best thing you can do for maximun cooling.
As long as you drain it after every run and don't leave it in the
engine, and never run the engine for very long. Water, at engine
temperatures, is quite corrosive to pretty much all of the metals
used in engines. Steam is even worse. There are mineral based
corrosion inhibitors available that not only raise the boiling
temperature, but have no negative effect on heat transfer...and
are used as mineral based antifreeze.
> Joshua,
>
> In a properly sized cooling system, the use of Red Line "Water Wetter" would
> still be a benefit, but not one that is absolutley needed. This product is
> not intended to fix a broken cooling system, but instead to maximize what
> you have. The first thing one needs to do is make sure that everything is in
> perfect working order, and is properly sized.
Plus you can buy even better stuff from Edmund Scientific for a
teeny fraction of the price. Main use is in commercial water
systems where it can cut the cost of pumping considerably. Can
also increase the range of fire hoses, sometimes used in tanker
trucks.
> Running 100% water is simply the best thing you can do for maximun cooling.
As long as you drain it after every run and don't leave it in the
engine, and never run the engine for very long. Water, at engine
temperatures, is quite corrosive to pretty much all of the metals
used in engines. Steam is even worse. There are mineral based
corrosion inhibitors available that not only raise the boiling
temperature, but have no negative effect on heat transfer...and
are used as mineral based antifreeze.