Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
#201
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
I have issues with your statement "The clutch safety switch would not
allow me to restart the engine".
Either Jeep has radically changed the design or you just don't know how
the clutch works.
The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
If you want to complain about the cheap part, then at least do the
homework so you aren't giving out bad or totally wrong information.
It is very possible to drive a Jeep with broken clutch linkage. You
would have people believe they are screwed if this happens. They
aren't. The Jeep can be put into gear, the clutch pedal depressed and
the engine will start the Jeep in gear.
No disagreement about DC going cheap....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
uboat27 wrote:
>
<snip>
allow me to restart the engine".
Either Jeep has radically changed the design or you just don't know how
the clutch works.
The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
If you want to complain about the cheap part, then at least do the
homework so you aren't giving out bad or totally wrong information.
It is very possible to drive a Jeep with broken clutch linkage. You
would have people believe they are screwed if this happens. They
aren't. The Jeep can be put into gear, the clutch pedal depressed and
the engine will start the Jeep in gear.
No disagreement about DC going cheap....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
uboat27 wrote:
>
<snip>
#202
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
I have issues with your statement "The clutch safety switch would not
allow me to restart the engine".
Either Jeep has radically changed the design or you just don't know how
the clutch works.
The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
If you want to complain about the cheap part, then at least do the
homework so you aren't giving out bad or totally wrong information.
It is very possible to drive a Jeep with broken clutch linkage. You
would have people believe they are screwed if this happens. They
aren't. The Jeep can be put into gear, the clutch pedal depressed and
the engine will start the Jeep in gear.
No disagreement about DC going cheap....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
uboat27 wrote:
>
<snip>
allow me to restart the engine".
Either Jeep has radically changed the design or you just don't know how
the clutch works.
The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
If you want to complain about the cheap part, then at least do the
homework so you aren't giving out bad or totally wrong information.
It is very possible to drive a Jeep with broken clutch linkage. You
would have people believe they are screwed if this happens. They
aren't. The Jeep can be put into gear, the clutch pedal depressed and
the engine will start the Jeep in gear.
No disagreement about DC going cheap....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
uboat27 wrote:
>
<snip>
#203
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
I have issues with your statement "The clutch safety switch would not
allow me to restart the engine".
Either Jeep has radically changed the design or you just don't know how
the clutch works.
The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
If you want to complain about the cheap part, then at least do the
homework so you aren't giving out bad or totally wrong information.
It is very possible to drive a Jeep with broken clutch linkage. You
would have people believe they are screwed if this happens. They
aren't. The Jeep can be put into gear, the clutch pedal depressed and
the engine will start the Jeep in gear.
No disagreement about DC going cheap....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
uboat27 wrote:
>
<snip>
allow me to restart the engine".
Either Jeep has radically changed the design or you just don't know how
the clutch works.
The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
If you want to complain about the cheap part, then at least do the
homework so you aren't giving out bad or totally wrong information.
It is very possible to drive a Jeep with broken clutch linkage. You
would have people believe they are screwed if this happens. They
aren't. The Jeep can be put into gear, the clutch pedal depressed and
the engine will start the Jeep in gear.
No disagreement about DC going cheap....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
uboat27 wrote:
>
<snip>
#204
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
>The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
>what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
the dash.
Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
range.
I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
-JD
>what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
the dash.
Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
range.
I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
-JD
#205
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
>The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
>what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
the dash.
Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
range.
I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
-JD
>what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
the dash.
Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
range.
I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
-JD
#206
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
>The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
>what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
the dash.
Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
range.
I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
-JD
>what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
the dash.
Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
range.
I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
-JD
#207
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
Thanks for the info. Any idea when they changed it?
Mike
JD Adams wrote:
>
> >The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
> >what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
>
> They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
> device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
> cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
> is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
> the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
>
> It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
> style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
>
> If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
> by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
> in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
> the dash.
>
> Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
> in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
> is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
> range.
>
> I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
> removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
> have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
> service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
> not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
>
> -JD
Mike
JD Adams wrote:
>
> >The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
> >what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
>
> They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
> device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
> cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
> is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
> the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
>
> It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
> style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
>
> If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
> by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
> in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
> the dash.
>
> Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
> in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
> is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
> range.
>
> I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
> removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
> have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
> service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
> not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
>
> -JD
#208
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
Thanks for the info. Any idea when they changed it?
Mike
JD Adams wrote:
>
> >The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
> >what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
>
> They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
> device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
> cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
> is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
> the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
>
> It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
> style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
>
> If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
> by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
> in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
> the dash.
>
> Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
> in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
> is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
> range.
>
> I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
> removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
> have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
> service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
> not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
>
> -JD
Mike
JD Adams wrote:
>
> >The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
> >what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
>
> They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
> device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
> cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
> is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
> the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
>
> It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
> style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
>
> If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
> by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
> in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
> the dash.
>
> Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
> in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
> is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
> range.
>
> I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
> removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
> have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
> service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
> not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
>
> -JD
#209
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
Thanks for the info. Any idea when they changed it?
Mike
JD Adams wrote:
>
> >The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
> >what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
>
> They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
> device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
> cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
> is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
> the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
>
> It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
> style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
>
> If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
> by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
> in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
> the dash.
>
> Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
> in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
> is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
> range.
>
> I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
> removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
> have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
> service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
> not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
>
> -JD
Mike
JD Adams wrote:
>
> >The clutch switch is on the pedal. Push the pedal down and no matter
> >what shape the linkage is in, the engine 'Will' try to turn over.
>
> They have changed the design, Miike. On my '05 TJL, the interlocking
> device is barrel-shaped, and slides back and forth along the master
> cylinder actuator rod. The circuit is completed when the clutch pedal
> is depressed all the way to the floor, squeezing the contacts inside
> the switch between the firewall and the pedal/rod pivot point.
>
> It's a strange looking setup and it is much more complex than the old
> style that resembles a vintage brake light switch.
>
> If the clutch actuator rod is broken, the engine can still be cranked
> by inserting a fuse in cavity #28 inside the underhood box as outlined
> in the Owner's Manual, or by manually bridging the 2-wire circuit under
> the dash.
>
> Note: the manual indicates that bypassing this 'feature' using a fuse
> in cavity #28 will only work if the transfer case is in 4L range. This
> is incorrect. It will work with the transfer case in any selected
> range.
>
> I do not believe that removing this 'feature' voids the warranty. I've
> removed mine altogether *in the interest of safety and reliability* and
> have since taken the vehicle in for warranty service. I told the
> service writer about it and asked if it was a problem. He said it was
> not a problem at all from a warranty standpoint.
>
> -JD
#210
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Warning!! Dangerous design flaw in the 2006 Jeep Wranglers!!
The rod itself was made of plastic? Interesting. I have an '05 TJL.
The clutch master cylinder actuator rod in this model is made of steel,
with a nylon swivel fitting swedged to the end where it hooks up to the
pedal pivot pin. IMO, the pivot fitting should be redesigned using all
metal parts that would include lubricated ball-bearings and seals, just
like Semi's use.
Inquirie about the new part they plan to use. Insist that they use the
metal-rod design --it may be a mid-year spec update. I can't see a
plastic actuator rod being reliable enough for anyone, and I doubt they
want to see you come back with the same problem.
-JD