Matt Macchiarolo

My '00 has it. It's even described in the owner's manual.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4417681C.52F89C59@sympatico.ca...
> The first TJ's had a fuse slot labeled 'auto', (maybe 14?) you could
> stick the fuse in and go. I hear they took out this feature on the
> later ones.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>>
>> As far as I know, you can defeat the clutch-starter interlock on TJ's.
>> There
>> is a certain fuse position on the fuse box behind the glovebox door that
>> defeats the interlock when a fuse is inserted. (normally there is no
>> fuse)
>>
>> "JD Adams" <JDAdams@Softcom.Net> wrote in message
>> news:1142355987.123676.163050@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>> > Interesting post. A clutch that dies isn't what I'd call 'dangerous'
>> > though; I drive a semi, and rarely use the clutch at all.
>> >
>> > I do know about the plastic clip problem. I discovered it while in the
>> > process of ripping out that silly starter-lock device, something I
>> > think every Jeep owner should do. If nothing else, you could have
>> > easily moved it by cranking the engine with the transmission in first
>> > gear. Hell, you could have easily driven it home that way for that
>> > matter.
>> >
>> > I carry some extra utility wire in the toolbox for something like this.
>> > If it clip dies, I can temporarily wrap some wire around the rod and
>> > pedal assembly to get it down the road. And now that you've mentioned
>> > all of this, I may poke around the local hardware store and see if I
>> > can find something more durable to replace this.
>> >
>> > Hang in there. Embarassing as it was (we've all been there and done
>> > that), Jeeps are machines, and machines sometimes break. I don't think
>> > DC wants their products to break that easily, but I will be the first
>> > to flame Dealerships for being snotty to customers without cause.
>> > Unless you have cash in hand, they don't want to know you exist.
>> >

Matt Macchiarolo

My '00 has it. It's even described in the owner's manual.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4417681C.52F89C59@sympatico.ca...
> The first TJ's had a fuse slot labeled 'auto', (maybe 14?) you could
> stick the fuse in and go. I hear they took out this feature on the
> later ones.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>>
>> As far as I know, you can defeat the clutch-starter interlock on TJ's.
>> There
>> is a certain fuse position on the fuse box behind the glovebox door that
>> defeats the interlock when a fuse is inserted. (normally there is no
>> fuse)
>>
>> "JD Adams" <JDAdams@Softcom.Net> wrote in message
>> news:1142355987.123676.163050@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>> > Interesting post. A clutch that dies isn't what I'd call 'dangerous'
>> > though; I drive a semi, and rarely use the clutch at all.
>> >
>> > I do know about the plastic clip problem. I discovered it while in the
>> > process of ripping out that silly starter-lock device, something I
>> > think every Jeep owner should do. If nothing else, you could have
>> > easily moved it by cranking the engine with the transmission in first
>> > gear. Hell, you could have easily driven it home that way for that
>> > matter.
>> >
>> > I carry some extra utility wire in the toolbox for something like this.
>> > If it clip dies, I can temporarily wrap some wire around the rod and
>> > pedal assembly to get it down the road. And now that you've mentioned
>> > all of this, I may poke around the local hardware store and see if I
>> > can find something more durable to replace this.
>> >
>> > Hang in there. Embarassing as it was (we've all been there and done
>> > that), Jeeps are machines, and machines sometimes break. I don't think
>> > DC wants their products to break that easily, but I will be the first
>> > to flame Dealerships for being snotty to customers without cause.
>> > Unless you have cash in hand, they don't want to know you exist.
>> >

Matt Macchiarolo

My '00 has it. It's even described in the owner's manual.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4417681C.52F89C59@sympatico.ca...
> The first TJ's had a fuse slot labeled 'auto', (maybe 14?) you could
> stick the fuse in and go. I hear they took out this feature on the
> later ones.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>>
>> As far as I know, you can defeat the clutch-starter interlock on TJ's.
>> There
>> is a certain fuse position on the fuse box behind the glovebox door that
>> defeats the interlock when a fuse is inserted. (normally there is no
>> fuse)
>>
>> "JD Adams" <JDAdams@Softcom.Net> wrote in message
>> news:1142355987.123676.163050@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>> > Interesting post. A clutch that dies isn't what I'd call 'dangerous'
>> > though; I drive a semi, and rarely use the clutch at all.
>> >
>> > I do know about the plastic clip problem. I discovered it while in the
>> > process of ripping out that silly starter-lock device, something I
>> > think every Jeep owner should do. If nothing else, you could have
>> > easily moved it by cranking the engine with the transmission in first
>> > gear. Hell, you could have easily driven it home that way for that
>> > matter.
>> >
>> > I carry some extra utility wire in the toolbox for something like this.
>> > If it clip dies, I can temporarily wrap some wire around the rod and
>> > pedal assembly to get it down the road. And now that you've mentioned
>> > all of this, I may poke around the local hardware store and see if I
>> > can find something more durable to replace this.
>> >
>> > Hang in there. Embarassing as it was (we've all been there and done
>> > that), Jeeps are machines, and machines sometimes break. I don't think
>> > DC wants their products to break that easily, but I will be the first
>> > to flame Dealerships for being snotty to customers without cause.
>> > Unless you have cash in hand, they don't want to know you exist.
>> >

FOrtsiii@msn.com

My 1998 has the same plastic clip arrangement.

FOrtsiii@msn.com

My 1998 has the same plastic clip arrangement.

FOrtsiii@msn.com

My 1998 has the same plastic clip arrangement.

FOrtsiii@msn.com

My 1998 has the same plastic clip arrangement.

uboat27

It is not the fact the plastic push rod broke and he was unable top
drive the vehicle. I'm in the same boat with a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X.
The rod connecting the master cylinder to the clutch pedal is made of
hard plastic. Mine broke while backing out of a parking lot. I put the
jeep in gear, checked behind me, and let off the brake. All the sudden
the jeep jumped back. The plastic rod had snapped and the jeep stalled.


The clutch safety switch would not allow me to restart the engine.
Having the jeep for less than a month I did not want to void the
warranty by-passing the switch. Besides, being a new vehicle I believe
it was jeep's problem at that point. I had it towed to the shop to have
it fixed. It was the ROD that broke not the attaching clip. The
dealership tried to tell me the rod didn't break. I had to take them
out to the jeep to prove them wrong.

My first car\truck was a 1952 GMC with 3 on the tree and a starter
button on the floor. I learn how to double clutch in the army driving 2
1/2 ton a 5 ton trucks. I even spend a few years as an OTR driver. I
can float gears with the best. If it had not been covered by warranty I
would have drove it home and replaced it myself.

The major cause of his, mine, and a few other 2006 jeep owners is that
DC decided to save a few bucks by buying an inferior part. (See NHTSA
website for recent complaints). My jeep as been in the shop for over 2
weeks waiting for a replacement part. Seeing the part is made of
plastic I thought of using a small diameter PVC pipe to splice the
parts together. Only I was told I would then have to sign a waiver to
release the dealership of responsibility. I'm not willing to do that.

The sad truth about owing a new vehicle and it breaking down is that
there are several restrictions involved in order to have it repaired
and stay under warranty. A replacement part is unavailable and I still
must make payments. On top of this I must rent a car to get to work.
Like the man said, DC couldn't care less.

If anyone else has the problem with the plastic (or "nylon" as the
dealer called it) breaking, please file a complaint on the NHSTA
website. This part needs to be made from metal and should be recalled.
I was teaching my sons to drive this jeep. I could image them or any
other novice teenager driver having an accident if this broke on them
while they were driving.

uboat27

It is not the fact the plastic push rod broke and he was unable top
drive the vehicle. I'm in the same boat with a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X.
The rod connecting the master cylinder to the clutch pedal is made of
hard plastic. Mine broke while backing out of a parking lot. I put the
jeep in gear, checked behind me, and let off the brake. All the sudden
the jeep jumped back. The plastic rod had snapped and the jeep stalled.


The clutch safety switch would not allow me to restart the engine.
Having the jeep for less than a month I did not want to void the
warranty by-passing the switch. Besides, being a new vehicle I believe
it was jeep's problem at that point. I had it towed to the shop to have
it fixed. It was the ROD that broke not the attaching clip. The
dealership tried to tell me the rod didn't break. I had to take them
out to the jeep to prove them wrong.

My first car\truck was a 1952 GMC with 3 on the tree and a starter
button on the floor. I learn how to double clutch in the army driving 2
1/2 ton a 5 ton trucks. I even spend a few years as an OTR driver. I
can float gears with the best. If it had not been covered by warranty I
would have drove it home and replaced it myself.

The major cause of his, mine, and a few other 2006 jeep owners is that
DC decided to save a few bucks by buying an inferior part. (See NHTSA
website for recent complaints). My jeep as been in the shop for over 2
weeks waiting for a replacement part. Seeing the part is made of
plastic I thought of using a small diameter PVC pipe to splice the
parts together. Only I was told I would then have to sign a waiver to
release the dealership of responsibility. I'm not willing to do that.

The sad truth about owing a new vehicle and it breaking down is that
there are several restrictions involved in order to have it repaired
and stay under warranty. A replacement part is unavailable and I still
must make payments. On top of this I must rent a car to get to work.
Like the man said, DC couldn't care less.

If anyone else has the problem with the plastic (or "nylon" as the
dealer called it) breaking, please file a complaint on the NHSTA
website. This part needs to be made from metal and should be recalled.
I was teaching my sons to drive this jeep. I could image them or any
other novice teenager driver having an accident if this broke on them
while they were driving.

uboat27

It is not the fact the plastic push rod broke and he was unable top
drive the vehicle. I'm in the same boat with a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X.
The rod connecting the master cylinder to the clutch pedal is made of
hard plastic. Mine broke while backing out of a parking lot. I put the
jeep in gear, checked behind me, and let off the brake. All the sudden
the jeep jumped back. The plastic rod had snapped and the jeep stalled.


The clutch safety switch would not allow me to restart the engine.
Having the jeep for less than a month I did not want to void the
warranty by-passing the switch. Besides, being a new vehicle I believe
it was jeep's problem at that point. I had it towed to the shop to have
it fixed. It was the ROD that broke not the attaching clip. The
dealership tried to tell me the rod didn't break. I had to take them
out to the jeep to prove them wrong.

My first car\truck was a 1952 GMC with 3 on the tree and a starter
button on the floor. I learn how to double clutch in the army driving 2
1/2 ton a 5 ton trucks. I even spend a few years as an OTR driver. I
can float gears with the best. If it had not been covered by warranty I
would have drove it home and replaced it myself.

The major cause of his, mine, and a few other 2006 jeep owners is that
DC decided to save a few bucks by buying an inferior part. (See NHTSA
website for recent complaints). My jeep as been in the shop for over 2
weeks waiting for a replacement part. Seeing the part is made of
plastic I thought of using a small diameter PVC pipe to splice the
parts together. Only I was told I would then have to sign a waiver to
release the dealership of responsibility. I'm not willing to do that.

The sad truth about owing a new vehicle and it breaking down is that
there are several restrictions involved in order to have it repaired
and stay under warranty. A replacement part is unavailable and I still
must make payments. On top of this I must rent a car to get to work.
Like the man said, DC couldn't care less.

If anyone else has the problem with the plastic (or "nylon" as the
dealer called it) breaking, please file a complaint on the NHSTA
website. This part needs to be made from metal and should be recalled.
I was teaching my sons to drive this jeep. I could image them or any
other novice teenager driver having an accident if this broke on them
while they were driving.