Re: Very cold at elk camp... synthetic oil in my TJ?
 

"FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
news:ZuydnXLpeIr7RYHcRVn-vg@magma.ca...
> Can you please explain, why do you drive it to heat it up quickly?
> Thanks in advance
> Frank

The idea here is that the amount of cold engine wear with the engine sitting
idling (think low oil pump pressure) is worse for the engine than if you
start to drive right away where you get some additional pump pressure to
move the thickened oil. Obviously, the thinner the oil stays at low temps
the better. Obviously, you take it easy until the oil comes up to temp.
Also, remember that the oil is slower to warm than the coolant, so don't
just go by the temp gauge in the dash (unless you have an oil temp gauge
too)

Even though -15 is not all that cold, you could use synthetic oil,
especially one with a smaller first number, such as Mobil1 0w40, and this
will stay far thinner than even 5W30 conventional oil.

-Fred W
'98 TJ Sport

Ignore the curmudgeons that insist we drive our cars the way our fathers
(and their fathers) did in the days of straight 30 weight motor oils that
turned to taffy at 10 below.

Re: Very cold at elk camp... synthetic oil in my TJ?
 

The intent is to get the engine through the low operating temp as
quickly as possible. you want to get the engine out of limp mode (rich
mix) that can wash down the walls. It's not as bad on the FI vehicles,
it can be brutal on a carb vehicle. You also want to spend as little
time as possible turning the eninge over with thick oil.

Normal very cold weather start up procedure is to start the engine,
fast idle for one to two minutes, start driving gently (no more than 20
to 30 mph) Keeps the engine rpm up in the 1500 to 2000 rpm range while
still providing some small load. Once the temp gage starts showing a
reading, you can push it down a bit, just no freeway driving until the
gage is well up on the scale. A lot of times the automatics are the
limiting factor. Put them in drive and nothing much happens until the
friction in the toque converter warms things up enough to get oil
pressure to the clutches.

Generally the carbed vehicles are good to -25, FI goes to -35. Both take
some pretty healthy batteries, thinner oil, and recent tuneups. My
personal record is -35 in a windswept parking lot in Thief River Falls,
MN (Think Arctic Cat test track) at 6:30AM in January

BTW: When it's -35 out, it's 35 degrees warmer in the freezer section of
your frige. And 30 weight oil turns white, sets up firmly, looks just
like candle wax. Wonderful experience. Everyone should try it. Once is
enough though.

FrankW wrote:
> Can you please explain, why do you drive it to heat it up quickly?
> Thanks in advance
> Frank
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>
>> Synthetic is better at these temps but I wouldn't worry about 'only'
>> -15F, the Jeep will tolerate it easily. (different story around the
>> -25 to -35F range!) Make sure you have fresh oil (5w-30). a good
>> battery, and get it to operating temp quickly (drive it, don't idle it
>> for 20 minutes)
>>
>> I'd be more concerned over the battery than the oil. For that temp and
>> that far from civilization, I'd replace any battery over 4 years old.
>>
>> Handywired wrote:
>>
>>> It sort of breaks my heart to start my Jeep up at elk camp every
>>> year... it's
>>> usually somewhere around -15 F at 4:30 am when it's time to fire up
>>> the rigs to
>>> get to the trailheads. I have a block heater but dammit, I can't
>>> find an
>>> outlet to plug into up there <g>!
>>>
>>> Would my engine be better protected if I switched it to synthetic oil
>>> before
>>> the hunt? It's a '97 4.0L with 86K on it. Runs great. I'd probably
>>> switch
>>> back at the next oil change. I typically do the oil every 3000-4000
>>> miles. Is
>>> it bad to switch like that?
>>>
>>> -jeff
>
>

Re: Very cold at elk camp... synthetic oil in my TJ?
 

The intent is to get the engine through the low operating temp as
quickly as possible. you want to get the engine out of limp mode (rich
mix) that can wash down the walls. It's not as bad on the FI vehicles,
it can be brutal on a carb vehicle. You also want to spend as little
time as possible turning the eninge over with thick oil.

Normal very cold weather start up procedure is to start the engine,
fast idle for one to two minutes, start driving gently (no more than 20
to 30 mph) Keeps the engine rpm up in the 1500 to 2000 rpm range while
still providing some small load. Once the temp gage starts showing a
reading, you can push it down a bit, just no freeway driving until the
gage is well up on the scale. A lot of times the automatics are the
limiting factor. Put them in drive and nothing much happens until the
friction in the toque converter warms things up enough to get oil
pressure to the clutches.

Generally the carbed vehicles are good to -25, FI goes to -35. Both take
some pretty healthy batteries, thinner oil, and recent tuneups. My
personal record is -35 in a windswept parking lot in Thief River Falls,
MN (Think Arctic Cat test track) at 6:30AM in January

BTW: When it's -35 out, it's 35 degrees warmer in the freezer section of
your frige. And 30 weight oil turns white, sets up firmly, looks just
like candle wax. Wonderful experience. Everyone should try it. Once is
enough though.

FrankW wrote:
> Can you please explain, why do you drive it to heat it up quickly?
> Thanks in advance
> Frank
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>
>> Synthetic is better at these temps but I wouldn't worry about 'only'
>> -15F, the Jeep will tolerate it easily. (different story around the
>> -25 to -35F range!) Make sure you have fresh oil (5w-30). a good
>> battery, and get it to operating temp quickly (drive it, don't idle it
>> for 20 minutes)
>>
>> I'd be more concerned over the battery than the oil. For that temp and
>> that far from civilization, I'd replace any battery over 4 years old.
>>
>> Handywired wrote:
>>
>>> It sort of breaks my heart to start my Jeep up at elk camp every
>>> year... it's
>>> usually somewhere around -15 F at 4:30 am when it's time to fire up
>>> the rigs to
>>> get to the trailheads. I have a block heater but dammit, I can't
>>> find an
>>> outlet to plug into up there <g>!
>>>
>>> Would my engine be better protected if I switched it to synthetic oil
>>> before
>>> the hunt? It's a '97 4.0L with 86K on it. Runs great. I'd probably
>>> switch
>>> back at the next oil change. I typically do the oil every 3000-4000
>>> miles. Is
>>> it bad to switch like that?
>>>
>>> -jeff
>
>

Re: Very cold at elk camp... synthetic oil in my TJ?
 

The intent is to get the engine through the low operating temp as
quickly as possible. you want to get the engine out of limp mode (rich
mix) that can wash down the walls. It's not as bad on the FI vehicles,
it can be brutal on a carb vehicle. You also want to spend as little
time as possible turning the eninge over with thick oil.

Normal very cold weather start up procedure is to start the engine,
fast idle for one to two minutes, start driving gently (no more than 20
to 30 mph) Keeps the engine rpm up in the 1500 to 2000 rpm range while
still providing some small load. Once the temp gage starts showing a
reading, you can push it down a bit, just no freeway driving until the
gage is well up on the scale. A lot of times the automatics are the
limiting factor. Put them in drive and nothing much happens until the
friction in the toque converter warms things up enough to get oil
pressure to the clutches.

Generally the carbed vehicles are good to -25, FI goes to -35. Both take
some pretty healthy batteries, thinner oil, and recent tuneups. My
personal record is -35 in a windswept parking lot in Thief River Falls,
MN (Think Arctic Cat test track) at 6:30AM in January

BTW: When it's -35 out, it's 35 degrees warmer in the freezer section of
your frige. And 30 weight oil turns white, sets up firmly, looks just
like candle wax. Wonderful experience. Everyone should try it. Once is
enough though.

FrankW wrote:
> Can you please explain, why do you drive it to heat it up quickly?
> Thanks in advance
> Frank
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>
>> Synthetic is better at these temps but I wouldn't worry about 'only'
>> -15F, the Jeep will tolerate it easily. (different story around the
>> -25 to -35F range!) Make sure you have fresh oil (5w-30). a good
>> battery, and get it to operating temp quickly (drive it, don't idle it
>> for 20 minutes)
>>
>> I'd be more concerned over the battery than the oil. For that temp and
>> that far from civilization, I'd replace any battery over 4 years old.
>>
>> Handywired wrote:
>>
>>> It sort of breaks my heart to start my Jeep up at elk camp every
>>> year... it's
>>> usually somewhere around -15 F at 4:30 am when it's time to fire up
>>> the rigs to
>>> get to the trailheads. I have a block heater but dammit, I can't
>>> find an
>>> outlet to plug into up there <g>!
>>>
>>> Would my engine be better protected if I switched it to synthetic oil
>>> before
>>> the hunt? It's a '97 4.0L with 86K on it. Runs great. I'd probably
>>> switch
>>> back at the next oil change. I typically do the oil every 3000-4000
>>> miles. Is
>>> it bad to switch like that?
>>>
>>> -jeff
>
>

Re: Very cold at elk camp... synthetic oil in my TJ?
 

The intent is to get the engine through the low operating temp as
quickly as possible. you want to get the engine out of limp mode (rich
mix) that can wash down the walls. It's not as bad on the FI vehicles,
it can be brutal on a carb vehicle. You also want to spend as little
time as possible turning the eninge over with thick oil.

Normal very cold weather start up procedure is to start the engine,
fast idle for one to two minutes, start driving gently (no more than 20
to 30 mph) Keeps the engine rpm up in the 1500 to 2000 rpm range while
still providing some small load. Once the temp gage starts showing a
reading, you can push it down a bit, just no freeway driving until the
gage is well up on the scale. A lot of times the automatics are the
limiting factor. Put them in drive and nothing much happens until the
friction in the toque converter warms things up enough to get oil
pressure to the clutches.

Generally the carbed vehicles are good to -25, FI goes to -35. Both take
some pretty healthy batteries, thinner oil, and recent tuneups. My
personal record is -35 in a windswept parking lot in Thief River Falls,
MN (Think Arctic Cat test track) at 6:30AM in January

BTW: When it's -35 out, it's 35 degrees warmer in the freezer section of
your frige. And 30 weight oil turns white, sets up firmly, looks just
like candle wax. Wonderful experience. Everyone should try it. Once is
enough though.

FrankW wrote:
> Can you please explain, why do you drive it to heat it up quickly?
> Thanks in advance
> Frank
>
> RoyJ wrote:
>
>> Synthetic is better at these temps but I wouldn't worry about 'only'
>> -15F, the Jeep will tolerate it easily. (different story around the
>> -25 to -35F range!) Make sure you have fresh oil (5w-30). a good
>> battery, and get it to operating temp quickly (drive it, don't idle it
>> for 20 minutes)
>>
>> I'd be more concerned over the battery than the oil. For that temp and
>> that far from civilization, I'd replace any battery over 4 years old.
>>
>> Handywired wrote:
>>
>>> It sort of breaks my heart to start my Jeep up at elk camp every
>>> year... it's
>>> usually somewhere around -15 F at 4:30 am when it's time to fire up
>>> the rigs to
>>> get to the trailheads. I have a block heater but dammit, I can't
>>> find an
>>> outlet to plug into up there <g>!
>>>
>>> Would my engine be better protected if I switched it to synthetic oil
>>> before
>>> the hunt? It's a '97 4.0L with 86K on it. Runs great. I'd probably
>>> switch
>>> back at the next oil change. I typically do the oil every 3000-4000
>>> miles. Is
>>> it bad to switch like that?
>>>
>>> -jeff
>
>

Re: Very cold at elk camp... synthetic oil in my TJ?
 

Again you want to put a cold engine under a load? If this is such
an easy thing to do, why do think truckers never turn off their engines.
You know it cost them money to have them just idle, but a heck of a lot
less than a rebuild.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

RoyJ wrote:
>
> The intent is to get the engine through the low operating temp as
> quickly as possible. you want to get the engine out of limp mode (rich
> mix) that can wash down the walls. It's not as bad on the FI vehicles,
> it can be brutal on a carb vehicle. You also want to spend as little
> time as possible turning the eninge over with thick oil.
>
> Normal very cold weather start up procedure is to start the engine,
> fast idle for one to two minutes, start driving gently (no more than 20
> to 30 mph) Keeps the engine rpm up in the 1500 to 2000 rpm range while
> still providing some small load. Once the temp gage starts showing a
> reading, you can push it down a bit, just no freeway driving until the
> gage is well up on the scale. A lot of times the automatics are the
> limiting factor. Put them in drive and nothing much happens until the
> friction in the toque converter warms things up enough to get oil
> pressure to the clutches.
>
> Generally the carbed vehicles are good to -25, FI goes to -35. Both take
> some pretty healthy batteries, thinner oil, and recent tuneups. My
> personal record is -35 in a windswept parking lot in Thief River Falls,
> MN (Think Arctic Cat test track) at 6:30AM in January
>
> BTW: When it's -35 out, it's 35 degrees warmer in the freezer section of
> your frige. And 30 weight oil turns white, sets up firmly, looks just
> like candle wax. Wonderful experience. Everyone should try it. Once is
> enough though.

Re: Very cold at elk camp... synthetic oil in my TJ?
 

Again you want to put a cold engine under a load? If this is such
an easy thing to do, why do think truckers never turn off their engines.
You know it cost them money to have them just idle, but a heck of a lot
less than a rebuild.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

RoyJ wrote:
>
> The intent is to get the engine through the low operating temp as
> quickly as possible. you want to get the engine out of limp mode (rich
> mix) that can wash down the walls. It's not as bad on the FI vehicles,
> it can be brutal on a carb vehicle. You also want to spend as little
> time as possible turning the eninge over with thick oil.
>
> Normal very cold weather start up procedure is to start the engine,
> fast idle for one to two minutes, start driving gently (no more than 20
> to 30 mph) Keeps the engine rpm up in the 1500 to 2000 rpm range while
> still providing some small load. Once the temp gage starts showing a
> reading, you can push it down a bit, just no freeway driving until the
> gage is well up on the scale. A lot of times the automatics are the
> limiting factor. Put them in drive and nothing much happens until the
> friction in the toque converter warms things up enough to get oil
> pressure to the clutches.
>
> Generally the carbed vehicles are good to -25, FI goes to -35. Both take
> some pretty healthy batteries, thinner oil, and recent tuneups. My
> personal record is -35 in a windswept parking lot in Thief River Falls,
> MN (Think Arctic Cat test track) at 6:30AM in January
>
> BTW: When it's -35 out, it's 35 degrees warmer in the freezer section of
> your frige. And 30 weight oil turns white, sets up firmly, looks just
> like candle wax. Wonderful experience. Everyone should try it. Once is
> enough though.

Re: Very cold at elk camp... synthetic oil in my TJ?
 

Again you want to put a cold engine under a load? If this is such
an easy thing to do, why do think truckers never turn off their engines.
You know it cost them money to have them just idle, but a heck of a lot
less than a rebuild.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

RoyJ wrote:
>
> The intent is to get the engine through the low operating temp as
> quickly as possible. you want to get the engine out of limp mode (rich
> mix) that can wash down the walls. It's not as bad on the FI vehicles,
> it can be brutal on a carb vehicle. You also want to spend as little
> time as possible turning the eninge over with thick oil.
>
> Normal very cold weather start up procedure is to start the engine,
> fast idle for one to two minutes, start driving gently (no more than 20
> to 30 mph) Keeps the engine rpm up in the 1500 to 2000 rpm range while
> still providing some small load. Once the temp gage starts showing a
> reading, you can push it down a bit, just no freeway driving until the
> gage is well up on the scale. A lot of times the automatics are the
> limiting factor. Put them in drive and nothing much happens until the
> friction in the toque converter warms things up enough to get oil
> pressure to the clutches.
>
> Generally the carbed vehicles are good to -25, FI goes to -35. Both take
> some pretty healthy batteries, thinner oil, and recent tuneups. My
> personal record is -35 in a windswept parking lot in Thief River Falls,
> MN (Think Arctic Cat test track) at 6:30AM in January
>
> BTW: When it's -35 out, it's 35 degrees warmer in the freezer section of
> your frige. And 30 weight oil turns white, sets up firmly, looks just
> like candle wax. Wonderful experience. Everyone should try it. Once is
> enough though.

Re: Very cold at elk camp... synthetic oil in my TJ?
 

Again you want to put a cold engine under a load? If this is such
an easy thing to do, why do think truckers never turn off their engines.
You know it cost them money to have them just idle, but a heck of a lot
less than a rebuild.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

RoyJ wrote:
>
> The intent is to get the engine through the low operating temp as
> quickly as possible. you want to get the engine out of limp mode (rich
> mix) that can wash down the walls. It's not as bad on the FI vehicles,
> it can be brutal on a carb vehicle. You also want to spend as little
> time as possible turning the eninge over with thick oil.
>
> Normal very cold weather start up procedure is to start the engine,
> fast idle for one to two minutes, start driving gently (no more than 20
> to 30 mph) Keeps the engine rpm up in the 1500 to 2000 rpm range while
> still providing some small load. Once the temp gage starts showing a
> reading, you can push it down a bit, just no freeway driving until the
> gage is well up on the scale. A lot of times the automatics are the
> limiting factor. Put them in drive and nothing much happens until the
> friction in the toque converter warms things up enough to get oil
> pressure to the clutches.
>
> Generally the carbed vehicles are good to -25, FI goes to -35. Both take
> some pretty healthy batteries, thinner oil, and recent tuneups. My
> personal record is -35 in a windswept parking lot in Thief River Falls,
> MN (Think Arctic Cat test track) at 6:30AM in January
>
> BTW: When it's -35 out, it's 35 degrees warmer in the freezer section of
> your frige. And 30 weight oil turns white, sets up firmly, looks just
> like candle wax. Wonderful experience. Everyone should try it. Once is
> enough though.

Re: Very cold at elk camp... synthetic oil in my TJ?
 

I'd always understood it is because they are scared they can't get
them started again.

Dave Milne, Scotland
'91 Grand Wagoneer, '99 TJ

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:411D47DF.2DBAD287@cox.net...
> Again you want to put a cold engine under a load? If this is such
> an easy thing to do, why do think truckers never turn off their engines.