Hey, I did it. Got one of those suckers off and put the new one on.

The downside. My compressor died just as I went to pump it up for the
second time before I could get the spring and keepers back on that valve..

Anyway, I found out a couple of things.

1. The old seal was red and it had a little spring around the top to keep it
taught against the valve rod. The new ones do not have this spring.
2. I found the old seal very flexible in my hand. Could be that it was
getting soft with engine heat and wasn't providing the "umbrella effect".
The new seals are very firm compared to the old ones.
3. I released the air from the cylinder to test the valve guide play. I
lowered it a bit and moved it back and forth. I found none to speak of so
that's great (on this one valve so far).
3. I bought a tool for 35.00 which grabs the spring from the side and
suppose to pull it up. This tool has a long arm and a shorter arm which are
suppose to grab the spring. Then there is a handle at the top which you
turn to compress the spring. I found this tool to be a large piece of doo
doo to put it nicely. I found the lever kind of tool which presses down on
the spring using the bolt from the rocker arm as a pivit point. This 2.00
tool I found at the flea market worked flawlessly. Perhaps anyone who uses
the spring grabber type tool can give me a tip on how it should work.

Bill

 

On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 02:16:24 UTC "William Oliveri"
<wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote:

> Hey, I did it. Got one of those suckers off and put the new one on.
>
> The downside. My compressor died just as I went to pump it up for the
> second time before I could get the spring and keepers back on that valve..
>
> Anyway, I found out a couple of things.
>
> 1. The old seal was red and it had a little spring around the top to keep it
> taught against the valve rod. The new ones do not have this spring.
> 2. I found the old seal very flexible in my hand. Could be that it was
> getting soft with engine heat and wasn't providing the "umbrella effect".
> The new seals are very firm compared to the old ones.
> 3. I released the air from the cylinder to test the valve guide play. I
> lowered it a bit and moved it back and forth. I found none to speak of so
> that's great (on this one valve so far).
> 3. I bought a tool for 35.00 which grabs the spring from the side and
> suppose to pull it up. This tool has a long arm and a shorter arm which are
> suppose to grab the spring. Then there is a handle at the top which you
> turn to compress the spring. I found this tool to be a large piece of doo
> doo to put it nicely. I found the lever kind of tool which presses down on
> the spring using the bolt from the rocker arm as a pivit point. This 2.00
> tool I found at the flea market worked flawlessly. Perhaps anyone who uses
> the spring grabber type tool can give me a tip on how it should work.

The long arm types I've seen are designed to work with the head off -
it holds the valve from one side while the other arm compresses the
spring. The one I use looks a lot like a 2-leg puller where the legs
have a fairly long lip thay slides in under the spring and the screw
pushes a cup down on the top of the spring to compress it without
bending side to side. The cup is open on the top so that you can tap
the top of the valve stem to break the keepers free coming off and
reach in to replace them on install. Cost me $5-$10 bucks but that
was a bunch of years back. On some engines it's hard to get the lips
under the spring (just tight clearance to the head walls, etc.) but it
works. It will also drop the valve into the head if the pressure
bleeds down, but the top cup is really good at trapping the keepers if
they fly off or if you drop them when putting it back together.

Has anyone mentioned the advantages of pulgging or covering the oil
drain holes in the head while you are doing this?

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 02:16:24 UTC "William Oliveri"
<wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote:

> Hey, I did it. Got one of those suckers off and put the new one on.
>
> The downside. My compressor died just as I went to pump it up for the
> second time before I could get the spring and keepers back on that valve..
>
> Anyway, I found out a couple of things.
>
> 1. The old seal was red and it had a little spring around the top to keep it
> taught against the valve rod. The new ones do not have this spring.
> 2. I found the old seal very flexible in my hand. Could be that it was
> getting soft with engine heat and wasn't providing the "umbrella effect".
> The new seals are very firm compared to the old ones.
> 3. I released the air from the cylinder to test the valve guide play. I
> lowered it a bit and moved it back and forth. I found none to speak of so
> that's great (on this one valve so far).
> 3. I bought a tool for 35.00 which grabs the spring from the side and
> suppose to pull it up. This tool has a long arm and a shorter arm which are
> suppose to grab the spring. Then there is a handle at the top which you
> turn to compress the spring. I found this tool to be a large piece of doo
> doo to put it nicely. I found the lever kind of tool which presses down on
> the spring using the bolt from the rocker arm as a pivit point. This 2.00
> tool I found at the flea market worked flawlessly. Perhaps anyone who uses
> the spring grabber type tool can give me a tip on how it should work.

The long arm types I've seen are designed to work with the head off -
it holds the valve from one side while the other arm compresses the
spring. The one I use looks a lot like a 2-leg puller where the legs
have a fairly long lip thay slides in under the spring and the screw
pushes a cup down on the top of the spring to compress it without
bending side to side. The cup is open on the top so that you can tap
the top of the valve stem to break the keepers free coming off and
reach in to replace them on install. Cost me $5-$10 bucks but that
was a bunch of years back. On some engines it's hard to get the lips
under the spring (just tight clearance to the head walls, etc.) but it
works. It will also drop the valve into the head if the pressure
bleeds down, but the top cup is really good at trapping the keepers if
they fly off or if you drop them when putting it back together.

Has anyone mentioned the advantages of pulgging or covering the oil
drain holes in the head while you are doing this?

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 02:16:24 UTC "William Oliveri"
<wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote:

> Hey, I did it. Got one of those suckers off and put the new one on.
>
> The downside. My compressor died just as I went to pump it up for the
> second time before I could get the spring and keepers back on that valve..
>
> Anyway, I found out a couple of things.
>
> 1. The old seal was red and it had a little spring around the top to keep it
> taught against the valve rod. The new ones do not have this spring.
> 2. I found the old seal very flexible in my hand. Could be that it was
> getting soft with engine heat and wasn't providing the "umbrella effect".
> The new seals are very firm compared to the old ones.
> 3. I released the air from the cylinder to test the valve guide play. I
> lowered it a bit and moved it back and forth. I found none to speak of so
> that's great (on this one valve so far).
> 3. I bought a tool for 35.00 which grabs the spring from the side and
> suppose to pull it up. This tool has a long arm and a shorter arm which are
> suppose to grab the spring. Then there is a handle at the top which you
> turn to compress the spring. I found this tool to be a large piece of doo
> doo to put it nicely. I found the lever kind of tool which presses down on
> the spring using the bolt from the rocker arm as a pivit point. This 2.00
> tool I found at the flea market worked flawlessly. Perhaps anyone who uses
> the spring grabber type tool can give me a tip on how it should work.

The long arm types I've seen are designed to work with the head off -
it holds the valve from one side while the other arm compresses the
spring. The one I use looks a lot like a 2-leg puller where the legs
have a fairly long lip thay slides in under the spring and the screw
pushes a cup down on the top of the spring to compress it without
bending side to side. The cup is open on the top so that you can tap
the top of the valve stem to break the keepers free coming off and
reach in to replace them on install. Cost me $5-$10 bucks but that
was a bunch of years back. On some engines it's hard to get the lips
under the spring (just tight clearance to the head walls, etc.) but it
works. It will also drop the valve into the head if the pressure
bleeds down, but the top cup is really good at trapping the keepers if
they fly off or if you drop them when putting it back together.

Has anyone mentioned the advantages of pulgging or covering the oil
drain holes in the head while you are doing this?

--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

I like your two dollar tool, too, the top one here:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html The problem is it's made for
the rocker with individual studs. Even on them I find many places where
accessories get in the way and I must use the spring compressor like the
two just past the middle of the web page. They are made for engines
using a rocker shaft like yours. All I can say is practice makes
perfect, and I find channel lock pliers help to pinch in the claws into
the bottom coils.
Before you put the rocker shaft back on go down the row tapping
each stem to make sure the keepers are seated.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Hey, I did it. Got one of those suckers off and put the new one on.
>
> The downside. My compressor died just as I went to pump it up for the
> second time before I could get the spring and keepers back on that valve..
>
> Anyway, I found out a couple of things.
>
> 1. The old seal was red and it had a little spring around the top to keep it
> taught against the valve rod. The new ones do not have this spring.
> 2. I found the old seal very flexible in my hand. Could be that it was
> getting soft with engine heat and wasn't providing the "umbrella effect".
> The new seals are very firm compared to the old ones.
> 3. I released the air from the cylinder to test the valve guide play. I
> lowered it a bit and moved it back and forth. I found none to speak of so
> that's great (on this one valve so far).
> 3. I bought a tool for 35.00 which grabs the spring from the side and
> suppose to pull it up. This tool has a long arm and a shorter arm which are
> suppose to grab the spring. Then there is a handle at the top which you
> turn to compress the spring. I found this tool to be a large piece of doo
> doo to put it nicely. I found the lever kind of tool which presses down on
> the spring using the bolt from the rocker arm as a pivit point. This 2.00
> tool I found at the flea market worked flawlessly. Perhaps anyone who uses
> the spring grabber type tool can give me a tip on how it should work.
>
> Bill

 

I like your two dollar tool, too, the top one here:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html The problem is it's made for
the rocker with individual studs. Even on them I find many places where
accessories get in the way and I must use the spring compressor like the
two just past the middle of the web page. They are made for engines
using a rocker shaft like yours. All I can say is practice makes
perfect, and I find channel lock pliers help to pinch in the claws into
the bottom coils.
Before you put the rocker shaft back on go down the row tapping
each stem to make sure the keepers are seated.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Hey, I did it. Got one of those suckers off and put the new one on.
>
> The downside. My compressor died just as I went to pump it up for the
> second time before I could get the spring and keepers back on that valve..
>
> Anyway, I found out a couple of things.
>
> 1. The old seal was red and it had a little spring around the top to keep it
> taught against the valve rod. The new ones do not have this spring.
> 2. I found the old seal very flexible in my hand. Could be that it was
> getting soft with engine heat and wasn't providing the "umbrella effect".
> The new seals are very firm compared to the old ones.
> 3. I released the air from the cylinder to test the valve guide play. I
> lowered it a bit and moved it back and forth. I found none to speak of so
> that's great (on this one valve so far).
> 3. I bought a tool for 35.00 which grabs the spring from the side and
> suppose to pull it up. This tool has a long arm and a shorter arm which are
> suppose to grab the spring. Then there is a handle at the top which you
> turn to compress the spring. I found this tool to be a large piece of doo
> doo to put it nicely. I found the lever kind of tool which presses down on
> the spring using the bolt from the rocker arm as a pivit point. This 2.00
> tool I found at the flea market worked flawlessly. Perhaps anyone who uses
> the spring grabber type tool can give me a tip on how it should work.
>
> Bill

 

I like your two dollar tool, too, the top one here:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi13.html The problem is it's made for
the rocker with individual studs. Even on them I find many places where
accessories get in the way and I must use the spring compressor like the
two just past the middle of the web page. They are made for engines
using a rocker shaft like yours. All I can say is practice makes
perfect, and I find channel lock pliers help to pinch in the claws into
the bottom coils.
Before you put the rocker shaft back on go down the row tapping
each stem to make sure the keepers are seated.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Hey, I did it. Got one of those suckers off and put the new one on.
>
> The downside. My compressor died just as I went to pump it up for the
> second time before I could get the spring and keepers back on that valve..
>
> Anyway, I found out a couple of things.
>
> 1. The old seal was red and it had a little spring around the top to keep it
> taught against the valve rod. The new ones do not have this spring.
> 2. I found the old seal very flexible in my hand. Could be that it was
> getting soft with engine heat and wasn't providing the "umbrella effect".
> The new seals are very firm compared to the old ones.
> 3. I released the air from the cylinder to test the valve guide play. I
> lowered it a bit and moved it back and forth. I found none to speak of so
> that's great (on this one valve so far).
> 3. I bought a tool for 35.00 which grabs the spring from the side and
> suppose to pull it up. This tool has a long arm and a shorter arm which are
> suppose to grab the spring. Then there is a handle at the top which you
> turn to compress the spring. I found this tool to be a large piece of doo
> doo to put it nicely. I found the lever kind of tool which presses down on
> the spring using the bolt from the rocker arm as a pivit point. This 2.00
> tool I found at the flea market worked flawlessly. Perhaps anyone who uses
> the spring grabber type tool can give me a tip on how it should work.
>
> Bill

 

On this page:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi...valve+spring+c
ompressor

The first one I bought which has a questionable design is this one: KD 2078.
Couldn't get that to work well.

The better, 2.00 one is the first one on the page: KD 912


Thanks for the tip on covering the oil drain holes.

Bill



"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-o1ycVHQDDozy@anon.none.net...
> On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 02:16:24 UTC "William Oliveri"
> <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote:
>
> > Hey, I did it. Got one of those suckers off and put the new one on.
> >
> > The downside. My compressor died just as I went to pump it up for the
> > second time before I could get the spring and keepers back on that
valve..
> >
> > Anyway, I found out a couple of things.
> >
> > 1. The old seal was red and it had a little spring around the top to
keep it
> > taught against the valve rod. The new ones do not have this spring.
> > 2. I found the old seal very flexible in my hand. Could be that it was
> > getting soft with engine heat and wasn't providing the "umbrella
effect".
> > The new seals are very firm compared to the old ones.
> > 3. I released the air from the cylinder to test the valve guide play. I
> > lowered it a bit and moved it back and forth. I found none to speak of
so
> > that's great (on this one valve so far).
> > 3. I bought a tool for 35.00 which grabs the spring from the side and
> > suppose to pull it up. This tool has a long arm and a shorter arm which
are
> > suppose to grab the spring. Then there is a handle at the top which you
> > turn to compress the spring. I found this tool to be a large piece of
doo
> > doo to put it nicely. I found the lever kind of tool which presses down
on
> > the spring using the bolt from the rocker arm as a pivit point. This
2.00
> > tool I found at the flea market worked flawlessly. Perhaps anyone who
uses
> > the spring grabber type tool can give me a tip on how it should work.
>
> The long arm types I've seen are designed to work with the head off -
> it holds the valve from one side while the other arm compresses the
> spring. The one I use looks a lot like a 2-leg puller where the legs
> have a fairly long lip thay slides in under the spring and the screw
> pushes a cup down on the top of the spring to compress it without
> bending side to side. The cup is open on the top so that you can tap
> the top of the valve stem to break the keepers free coming off and
> reach in to replace them on install. Cost me $5-$10 bucks but that
> was a bunch of years back. On some engines it's hard to get the lips
> under the spring (just tight clearance to the head walls, etc.) but it
> works. It will also drop the valve into the head if the pressure
> bleeds down, but the top cup is really good at trapping the keepers if
> they fly off or if you drop them when putting it back together.
>
> Has anyone mentioned the advantages of pulgging or covering the oil
> drain holes in the head while you are doing this?
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

On this page:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi...valve+spring+c
ompressor

The first one I bought which has a questionable design is this one: KD 2078.
Couldn't get that to work well.

The better, 2.00 one is the first one on the page: KD 912


Thanks for the tip on covering the oil drain holes.

Bill



"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-o1ycVHQDDozy@anon.none.net...
> On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 02:16:24 UTC "William Oliveri"
> <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote:
>
> > Hey, I did it. Got one of those suckers off and put the new one on.
> >
> > The downside. My compressor died just as I went to pump it up for the
> > second time before I could get the spring and keepers back on that
valve..
> >
> > Anyway, I found out a couple of things.
> >
> > 1. The old seal was red and it had a little spring around the top to
keep it
> > taught against the valve rod. The new ones do not have this spring.
> > 2. I found the old seal very flexible in my hand. Could be that it was
> > getting soft with engine heat and wasn't providing the "umbrella
effect".
> > The new seals are very firm compared to the old ones.
> > 3. I released the air from the cylinder to test the valve guide play. I
> > lowered it a bit and moved it back and forth. I found none to speak of
so
> > that's great (on this one valve so far).
> > 3. I bought a tool for 35.00 which grabs the spring from the side and
> > suppose to pull it up. This tool has a long arm and a shorter arm which
are
> > suppose to grab the spring. Then there is a handle at the top which you
> > turn to compress the spring. I found this tool to be a large piece of
doo
> > doo to put it nicely. I found the lever kind of tool which presses down
on
> > the spring using the bolt from the rocker arm as a pivit point. This
2.00
> > tool I found at the flea market worked flawlessly. Perhaps anyone who
uses
> > the spring grabber type tool can give me a tip on how it should work.
>
> The long arm types I've seen are designed to work with the head off -
> it holds the valve from one side while the other arm compresses the
> spring. The one I use looks a lot like a 2-leg puller where the legs
> have a fairly long lip thay slides in under the spring and the screw
> pushes a cup down on the top of the spring to compress it without
> bending side to side. The cup is open on the top so that you can tap
> the top of the valve stem to break the keepers free coming off and
> reach in to replace them on install. Cost me $5-$10 bucks but that
> was a bunch of years back. On some engines it's hard to get the lips
> under the spring (just tight clearance to the head walls, etc.) but it
> works. It will also drop the valve into the head if the pressure
> bleeds down, but the top cup is really good at trapping the keepers if
> they fly off or if you drop them when putting it back together.
>
> Has anyone mentioned the advantages of pulgging or covering the oil
> drain holes in the head while you are doing this?
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

On this page:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi...valve+spring+c
ompressor

The first one I bought which has a questionable design is this one: KD 2078.
Couldn't get that to work well.

The better, 2.00 one is the first one on the page: KD 912


Thanks for the tip on covering the oil drain holes.

Bill



"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-o1ycVHQDDozy@anon.none.net...
> On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 02:16:24 UTC "William Oliveri"
> <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote:
>
> > Hey, I did it. Got one of those suckers off and put the new one on.
> >
> > The downside. My compressor died just as I went to pump it up for the
> > second time before I could get the spring and keepers back on that
valve..
> >
> > Anyway, I found out a couple of things.
> >
> > 1. The old seal was red and it had a little spring around the top to
keep it
> > taught against the valve rod. The new ones do not have this spring.
> > 2. I found the old seal very flexible in my hand. Could be that it was
> > getting soft with engine heat and wasn't providing the "umbrella
effect".
> > The new seals are very firm compared to the old ones.
> > 3. I released the air from the cylinder to test the valve guide play. I
> > lowered it a bit and moved it back and forth. I found none to speak of
so
> > that's great (on this one valve so far).
> > 3. I bought a tool for 35.00 which grabs the spring from the side and
> > suppose to pull it up. This tool has a long arm and a shorter arm which
are
> > suppose to grab the spring. Then there is a handle at the top which you
> > turn to compress the spring. I found this tool to be a large piece of
doo
> > doo to put it nicely. I found the lever kind of tool which presses down
on
> > the spring using the bolt from the rocker arm as a pivit point. This
2.00
> > tool I found at the flea market worked flawlessly. Perhaps anyone who
uses
> > the spring grabber type tool can give me a tip on how it should work.
>
> The long arm types I've seen are designed to work with the head off -
> it holds the valve from one side while the other arm compresses the
> spring. The one I use looks a lot like a 2-leg puller where the legs
> have a fairly long lip thay slides in under the spring and the screw
> pushes a cup down on the top of the spring to compress it without
> bending side to side. The cup is open on the top so that you can tap
> the top of the valve stem to break the keepers free coming off and
> reach in to replace them on install. Cost me $5-$10 bucks but that
> was a bunch of years back. On some engines it's hard to get the lips
> under the spring (just tight clearance to the head walls, etc.) but it
> works. It will also drop the valve into the head if the pressure
> bleeds down, but the top cup is really good at trapping the keepers if
> they fly off or if you drop them when putting it back together.
>
> Has anyone mentioned the advantages of pulgging or covering the oil
> drain holes in the head while you are doing this?
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>