Update on my heater problem
10-23-2004, 01:22 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update on my heater problem
Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might
have to go to the dealer Monday.
"Joe Carroll" <jdcarroll@NOSPAMqwest.net> wrote in message
news:l8tkn0tc4kp3mpcu1vvp3llnfdanou80sl@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:59:52 -0400, Shazam <> wrote:
>
>
>>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed
>>that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the
>>blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when
>>the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the
>>dash put back together,
>
> Seems to be a problem with the 2000 TJ. I replaced my speed switch
> twice already.
>
>
> Joe Carroll
> 2K-TJ
>
> There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are."
> Joseph Duemer
have to go to the dealer Monday.
"Joe Carroll" <jdcarroll@NOSPAMqwest.net> wrote in message
news:l8tkn0tc4kp3mpcu1vvp3llnfdanou80sl@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:59:52 -0400, Shazam <> wrote:
>
>
>>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed
>>that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the
>>blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when
>>the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the
>>dash put back together,
>
> Seems to be a problem with the 2000 TJ. I replaced my speed switch
> twice already.
>
>
> Joe Carroll
> 2K-TJ
>
> There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are."
> Joseph Duemer
10-23-2004, 01:22 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update on my heater problem
Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might
have to go to the dealer Monday.
"Joe Carroll" <jdcarroll@NOSPAMqwest.net> wrote in message
news:l8tkn0tc4kp3mpcu1vvp3llnfdanou80sl@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:59:52 -0400, Shazam <> wrote:
>
>
>>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed
>>that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the
>>blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when
>>the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the
>>dash put back together,
>
> Seems to be a problem with the 2000 TJ. I replaced my speed switch
> twice already.
>
>
> Joe Carroll
> 2K-TJ
>
> There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are."
> Joseph Duemer
have to go to the dealer Monday.
"Joe Carroll" <jdcarroll@NOSPAMqwest.net> wrote in message
news:l8tkn0tc4kp3mpcu1vvp3llnfdanou80sl@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:59:52 -0400, Shazam <> wrote:
>
>
>>I contacted Justjeeps.com to look for a better price, and was informed
>>that I could just change the "speed control" switch for the
>>blower....cost: $7.19. I decided to try this out...sure enough, when
>>the switch came in, in 10 minutes, I had the switch replaced, and the
>>dash put back together,
>
> Seems to be a problem with the 2000 TJ. I replaced my speed switch
> twice already.
>
>
> Joe Carroll
> 2K-TJ
>
> There are some simple truths...And the dogs know what they are."
> Joseph Duemer
10-23-2004, 01:40 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update on my heater problem
It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
same good advice i have given many customers.
Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
from the worn motor overheats them.
Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
surge to 30A + on starting.
What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
Check these good prices out.
http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
Your's isnt bad.
Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
same good advice i have given many customers.
Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
from the worn motor overheats them.
Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
surge to 30A + on starting.
What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
Check these good prices out.
http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
Your's isnt bad.
Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
10-23-2004, 01:40 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update on my heater problem
It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
same good advice i have given many customers.
Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
from the worn motor overheats them.
Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
surge to 30A + on starting.
What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
Check these good prices out.
http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
Your's isnt bad.
Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
same good advice i have given many customers.
Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
from the worn motor overheats them.
Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
surge to 30A + on starting.
What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
Check these good prices out.
http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
Your's isnt bad.
Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
10-23-2004, 01:40 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update on my heater problem
It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
same good advice i have given many customers.
Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
from the worn motor overheats them.
Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
surge to 30A + on starting.
What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
Check these good prices out.
http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
Your's isnt bad.
Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
same good advice i have given many customers.
Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
from the worn motor overheats them.
Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
surge to 30A + on starting.
What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
Check these good prices out.
http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
Your's isnt bad.
Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
10-23-2004, 03:06 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update on my heater problem
While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts
troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000
apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the
back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and
oversize the bolt holding it on.
That loose connection for sure can create a heat issue. Up here in the
rust belt we see melted wires and switches all the time because of bad
grounds or bad connections. Just had a punky connection on my always
wet dimmer switch melt out my headlight switch. Both were 4 years old.
I think the $7.00 and one bolt solution is the right one rather than a
'change it all', and hope it fixes it. (Means they have 'no clue in the
world' what the trouble is to me) If they 'forget' or don't know about
the wire, the gent is out 1000 freaking dollars and the switch 'still'
will melt out!!!!
Now when my 88 melted the blower switch, I bought a new motor first
thing.... LOL! I still only changed the $7.00 switch, not the 300 or
whatever dollar control.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Calman wrote:
>
> It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
> same good advice i have given many customers.
> Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
> from the worn motor overheats them.
> Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
> blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
> with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
> surge to 30A + on starting.
> What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
> Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
> use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
> easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
> Check these good prices out.
> http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
> http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
> http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
> Your's isnt bad.
>
> Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
> you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000
apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the
back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and
oversize the bolt holding it on.
That loose connection for sure can create a heat issue. Up here in the
rust belt we see melted wires and switches all the time because of bad
grounds or bad connections. Just had a punky connection on my always
wet dimmer switch melt out my headlight switch. Both were 4 years old.
I think the $7.00 and one bolt solution is the right one rather than a
'change it all', and hope it fixes it. (Means they have 'no clue in the
world' what the trouble is to me) If they 'forget' or don't know about
the wire, the gent is out 1000 freaking dollars and the switch 'still'
will melt out!!!!
Now when my 88 melted the blower switch, I bought a new motor first
thing.... LOL! I still only changed the $7.00 switch, not the 300 or
whatever dollar control.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Calman wrote:
>
> It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
> same good advice i have given many customers.
> Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
> from the worn motor overheats them.
> Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
> blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
> with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
> surge to 30A + on starting.
> What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
> Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
> use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
> easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
> Check these good prices out.
> http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
> http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
> http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
> Your's isnt bad.
>
> Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
> you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
10-23-2004, 03:06 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update on my heater problem
While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts
troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000
apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the
back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and
oversize the bolt holding it on.
That loose connection for sure can create a heat issue. Up here in the
rust belt we see melted wires and switches all the time because of bad
grounds or bad connections. Just had a punky connection on my always
wet dimmer switch melt out my headlight switch. Both were 4 years old.
I think the $7.00 and one bolt solution is the right one rather than a
'change it all', and hope it fixes it. (Means they have 'no clue in the
world' what the trouble is to me) If they 'forget' or don't know about
the wire, the gent is out 1000 freaking dollars and the switch 'still'
will melt out!!!!
Now when my 88 melted the blower switch, I bought a new motor first
thing.... LOL! I still only changed the $7.00 switch, not the 300 or
whatever dollar control.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Calman wrote:
>
> It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
> same good advice i have given many customers.
> Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
> from the worn motor overheats them.
> Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
> blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
> with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
> surge to 30A + on starting.
> What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
> Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
> use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
> easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
> Check these good prices out.
> http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
> http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
> http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
> Your's isnt bad.
>
> Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
> you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000
apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the
back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and
oversize the bolt holding it on.
That loose connection for sure can create a heat issue. Up here in the
rust belt we see melted wires and switches all the time because of bad
grounds or bad connections. Just had a punky connection on my always
wet dimmer switch melt out my headlight switch. Both were 4 years old.
I think the $7.00 and one bolt solution is the right one rather than a
'change it all', and hope it fixes it. (Means they have 'no clue in the
world' what the trouble is to me) If they 'forget' or don't know about
the wire, the gent is out 1000 freaking dollars and the switch 'still'
will melt out!!!!
Now when my 88 melted the blower switch, I bought a new motor first
thing.... LOL! I still only changed the $7.00 switch, not the 300 or
whatever dollar control.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Calman wrote:
>
> It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
> same good advice i have given many customers.
> Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
> from the worn motor overheats them.
> Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
> blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
> with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
> surge to 30A + on starting.
> What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
> Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
> use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
> easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
> Check these good prices out.
> http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
> http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
> http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
> Your's isnt bad.
>
> Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
> you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
10-23-2004, 03:06 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update on my heater problem
While I agree on that Paul, the new TJ's are having melted parts
troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000
apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the
back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and
oversize the bolt holding it on.
That loose connection for sure can create a heat issue. Up here in the
rust belt we see melted wires and switches all the time because of bad
grounds or bad connections. Just had a punky connection on my always
wet dimmer switch melt out my headlight switch. Both were 4 years old.
I think the $7.00 and one bolt solution is the right one rather than a
'change it all', and hope it fixes it. (Means they have 'no clue in the
world' what the trouble is to me) If they 'forget' or don't know about
the wire, the gent is out 1000 freaking dollars and the switch 'still'
will melt out!!!!
Now when my 88 melted the blower switch, I bought a new motor first
thing.... LOL! I still only changed the $7.00 switch, not the 300 or
whatever dollar control.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Calman wrote:
>
> It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
> same good advice i have given many customers.
> Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
> from the worn motor overheats them.
> Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
> blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
> with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
> surge to 30A + on starting.
> What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
> Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
> use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
> easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
> Check these good prices out.
> http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
> http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
> http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
> Your's isnt bad.
>
> Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
> you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
troubles way too often. The 99 has a recall for this, the 2000
apparently doesn't. The main ground for the heater switch is on the
back of the dash panel and it comes loose. The fix is to drill and
oversize the bolt holding it on.
That loose connection for sure can create a heat issue. Up here in the
rust belt we see melted wires and switches all the time because of bad
grounds or bad connections. Just had a punky connection on my always
wet dimmer switch melt out my headlight switch. Both were 4 years old.
I think the $7.00 and one bolt solution is the right one rather than a
'change it all', and hope it fixes it. (Means they have 'no clue in the
world' what the trouble is to me) If they 'forget' or don't know about
the wire, the gent is out 1000 freaking dollars and the switch 'still'
will melt out!!!!
Now when my 88 melted the blower switch, I bought a new motor first
thing.... LOL! I still only changed the $7.00 switch, not the 300 or
whatever dollar control.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Calman wrote:
>
> It sounds like the dealer has a REAL mechanic working there. This is the
> same good advice i have given many customers.
> Electrical components in motor circuits usually die because increased load
> from the worn motor overheats them.
> Most tech manuals don't give amperage rarings for heater blowers, but if it
> blows a fuse I replace it. I have seen benz blowers that are new run 15 A
> with a surge of appx. 20 A when starting, and the ones i replaced would
> surge to 30A + on starting.
> What are the specs for a Jeep blower? Test a new one.
> Benzes blowers run all the time, so they die in about 10-15 years. New ones
> use a separate blower for constant low vent operation.They are generally
> easy to replace, but the switch and resistor can get costly.
> Check these good prices out.
> http://tinyurl.com/53h3m
> http://tinyurl.com/6al2b
> http://tinyurl.com/3nuk6
> Your's isnt bad.
>
> Keep putting switches in, it will get slower, defog poorly, and fail when
> you need it most. Put heavier fuses in, and you could start a fire.
> --
> Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
10-23-2004, 03:27 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update on my heater problem
Hi jason....according to the box, the number is: 1-05011214AA
I actually spoke with the vice-president of the dealership this
morning to discuss my unhappiness with the quality of the service I
received....Even if I don't get my money back for a false
estimate...at least they know about it....and 1 unhappy customer is 1
too many....
On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:22:57 GMT, "E. Jason Brooks"
<scriptlizard@nospizamscriptlizard.com> wrote:
>Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might
>have to go to the dealer Monday.
I actually spoke with the vice-president of the dealership this
morning to discuss my unhappiness with the quality of the service I
received....Even if I don't get my money back for a false
estimate...at least they know about it....and 1 unhappy customer is 1
too many....
On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:22:57 GMT, "E. Jason Brooks"
<scriptlizard@nospizamscriptlizard.com> wrote:
>Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might
>have to go to the dealer Monday.
10-23-2004, 03:27 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Update on my heater problem
Hi jason....according to the box, the number is: 1-05011214AA
I actually spoke with the vice-president of the dealership this
morning to discuss my unhappiness with the quality of the service I
received....Even if I don't get my money back for a false
estimate...at least they know about it....and 1 unhappy customer is 1
too many....
On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:22:57 GMT, "E. Jason Brooks"
<scriptlizard@nospizamscriptlizard.com> wrote:
>Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might
>have to go to the dealer Monday.
I actually spoke with the vice-president of the dealership this
morning to discuss my unhappiness with the quality of the service I
received....Even if I don't get my money back for a false
estimate...at least they know about it....and 1 unhappy customer is 1
too many....
On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 17:22:57 GMT, "E. Jason Brooks"
<scriptlizard@nospizamscriptlizard.com> wrote:
>Any idea what the part number is? I can't find that part anywhere. Might
>have to go to the dealer Monday.