Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
And like a truck driver who will be ticketed if the load shifts,
always recheck the straps at stops. Often I would find a problem with
the initial ten mile or wide spot, stop.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
> suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
> trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
>
> I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
> have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
> response)
>
> The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
> jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
> rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
>
> The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
> really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
> is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
> downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
> or strap.
>
> The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
> do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
> length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
> (desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
> than you planned. Mistakes happen.
always recheck the straps at stops. Often I would find a problem with
the initial ten mile or wide spot, stop.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
> suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
> trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
>
> I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
> have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
> response)
>
> The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
> jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
> rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
>
> The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
> really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
> is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
> downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
> or strap.
>
> The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
> do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
> length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
> (desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
> than you planned. Mistakes happen.
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
float, since it's rolling.
If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FFF8A5.ED9B9AA3@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=50072&item
=2484552279
> I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
> weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of
reader
> > mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie
down
> > at the frame.
> >
> > On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie
down
> > at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of
galling
> > the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the
wheels
> > turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a
tow
> > truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might
be
> > damaging your bearings that way.
> >
> > Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the
carrier
> > and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are
there
> > for a reason.
> >
> > If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc.
And if
> > your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
> >
> > When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply
Co
> > and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.)
Cross
> > the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam
them
> > down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT
EVERY
> > STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> > Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
float, since it's rolling.
If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FFF8A5.ED9B9AA3@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=50072&item
=2484552279
> I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
> weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of
reader
> > mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie
down
> > at the frame.
> >
> > On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie
down
> > at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of
galling
> > the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the
wheels
> > turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a
tow
> > truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might
be
> > damaging your bearings that way.
> >
> > Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the
carrier
> > and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are
there
> > for a reason.
> >
> > If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc.
And if
> > your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
> >
> > When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply
Co
> > and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.)
Cross
> > the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam
them
> > down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT
EVERY
> > STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> > Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
float, since it's rolling.
If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FFF8A5.ED9B9AA3@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=50072&item
=2484552279
> I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
> weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of
reader
> > mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie
down
> > at the frame.
> >
> > On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie
down
> > at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of
galling
> > the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the
wheels
> > turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a
tow
> > truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might
be
> > damaging your bearings that way.
> >
> > Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the
carrier
> > and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are
there
> > for a reason.
> >
> > If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc.
And if
> > your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
> >
> > When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply
Co
> > and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.)
Cross
> > the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam
them
> > down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT
EVERY
> > STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> > Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
float, since it's rolling.
If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FFF8A5.ED9B9AA3@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=50072&item
=2484552279
> I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
> weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of
reader
> > mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie
down
> > at the frame.
> >
> > On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie
down
> > at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of
galling
> > the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the
wheels
> > turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a
tow
> > truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might
be
> > damaging your bearings that way.
> >
> > Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the
carrier
> > and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are
there
> > for a reason.
> >
> > If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc.
And if
> > your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
> >
> > When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply
Co
> > and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.)
Cross
> > the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam
them
> > down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT
EVERY
> > STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> > Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
float, since it's rolling.
If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FFF8A5.ED9B9AA3@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=50072&item
=2484552279
> I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
> weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of
reader
> > mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie
down
> > at the frame.
> >
> > On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie
down
> > at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of
galling
> > the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the
wheels
> > turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a
tow
> > truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might
be
> > damaging your bearings that way.
> >
> > Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the
carrier
> > and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are
there
> > for a reason.
> >
> > If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc.
And if
> > your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
> >
> > When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply
Co
> > and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.)
Cross
> > the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam
them
> > down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT
EVERY
> > STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> > Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
float, since it's rolling.
If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FFF8A5.ED9B9AA3@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=50072&item
=2484552279
> I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
> weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of
reader
> > mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie
down
> > at the frame.
> >
> > On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie
down
> > at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of
galling
> > the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the
wheels
> > turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a
tow
> > truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might
be
> > damaging your bearings that way.
> >
> > Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the
carrier
> > and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are
there
> > for a reason.
> >
> > If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc.
And if
> > your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
> >
> > When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply
Co
> > and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.)
Cross
> > the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam
them
> > down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT
EVERY
> > STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> > Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
float, since it's rolling.
If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FFF8A5.ED9B9AA3@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=50072&item
=2484552279
> I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
> weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of
reader
> > mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie
down
> > at the frame.
> >
> > On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie
down
> > at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of
galling
> > the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the
wheels
> > turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a
tow
> > truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might
be
> > damaging your bearings that way.
> >
> > Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the
carrier
> > and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are
there
> > for a reason.
> >
> > If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc.
And if
> > your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
> >
> > When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply
Co
> > and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.)
Cross
> > the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam
them
> > down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT
EVERY
> > STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> > Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
float, since it's rolling.
If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40FFF8A5.ED9B9AA3@***.net...
> Hi Matt,
> Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=50072&item
=2484552279
> I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
> weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> >
> > Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of
reader
> > mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie
down
> > at the frame.
> >
> > On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie
down
> > at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of
galling
> > the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the
wheels
> > turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a
tow
> > truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might
be
> > damaging your bearings that way.
> >
> > Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the
carrier
> > and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are
there
> > for a reason.
> >
> > If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc.
And if
> > your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
> >
> > When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply
Co
> > and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.)
Cross
> > the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam
them
> > down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT
EVERY
> > STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> > Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Yup, except, we haven't had a bumper made in the last twenty years
that we could jack to, leaving out the temporary tow bars we used clamp
to say the Daughter or Son's car to get it home.
Hush, you're making me jealous again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
> could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
> float, since it's rolling.
>
> If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
> about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
that we could jack to, leaving out the temporary tow bars we used clamp
to say the Daughter or Son's car to get it home.
Hush, you're making me jealous again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
> could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
> float, since it's rolling.
>
> If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
> about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Yup, except, we haven't had a bumper made in the last twenty years
that we could jack to, leaving out the temporary tow bars we used clamp
to say the Daughter or Son's car to get it home.
Hush, you're making me jealous again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
> could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
> float, since it's rolling.
>
> If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
> about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
that we could jack to, leaving out the temporary tow bars we used clamp
to say the Daughter or Son's car to get it home.
Hush, you're making me jealous again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
> could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
> float, since it's rolling.
>
> If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
> about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Yup, except, we haven't had a bumper made in the last twenty years
that we could jack to, leaving out the temporary tow bars we used clamp
to say the Daughter or Son's car to get it home.
Hush, you're making me jealous again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
> could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
> float, since it's rolling.
>
> If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
> about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
that we could jack to, leaving out the temporary tow bars we used clamp
to say the Daughter or Son's car to get it home.
Hush, you're making me jealous again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
> could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
> float, since it's rolling.
>
> If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
> about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Yup, except, we haven't had a bumper made in the last twenty years
that we could jack to, leaving out the temporary tow bars we used clamp
to say the Daughter or Son's car to get it home.
Hush, you're making me jealous again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
> could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
> float, since it's rolling.
>
> If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
> about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
that we could jack to, leaving out the temporary tow bars we used clamp
to say the Daughter or Son's car to get it home.
Hush, you're making me jealous again.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Yep, except of course we are talking about trailers, not dollies. And you
> could chain or strap the front suspension down to the dolly and let the rear
> float, since it's rolling.
>
> If my only choice was to use a dolly, I'd just flat-tow. The dolly adds
> about 250 pounds to a load that already has no brakes.
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)>
Thanks Matt. Per a local towing outfit's advice I got some chains with hooks
and adapted them to the 2" ratchet straps. I tied it down using the slotted
transport holes in the frame front & rear. It towed much better this way, no
suspension movement at all. Seemed really secure and the straps didn;t
loosen much at all. Problem was the straps were 27' loong (only ones I could
find) so I had to cut most of the excess off & toss it. Seemed like a waste,
but what the Hell.
I'm towing with a new F350 6.0 Power Stroke, which really handles the load
well, even on our mountain grades. Towing puts a pretty good dent in the
mileage, however.
and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)>
Thanks Matt. Per a local towing outfit's advice I got some chains with hooks
and adapted them to the 2" ratchet straps. I tied it down using the slotted
transport holes in the frame front & rear. It towed much better this way, no
suspension movement at all. Seemed really secure and the straps didn;t
loosen much at all. Problem was the straps were 27' loong (only ones I could
find) so I had to cut most of the excess off & toss it. Seemed like a waste,
but what the Hell.
I'm towing with a new F350 6.0 Power Stroke, which really handles the load
well, even on our mountain grades. Towing puts a pretty good dent in the
mileage, however.