Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Hi Matt,
Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2484552279
I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2484552279
I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Hi Matt,
Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2484552279
I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2484552279
I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Hi Matt,
Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2484552279
I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2484552279
I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
response)
The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
or strap.
The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
(desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
than you planned. Mistakes happen.
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
>>you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
>>will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>>
>>I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
>>stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
>>mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
>>This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
>>lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
>>that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
>>wheels and ancor them down.
>>
>>If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
>>crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
>>hammering on the straps.
>>
>>Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
>>over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
>>Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
>>panic.
>>
>>Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
>>They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
>>Screw type load binder Item# 143114
>>for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
>>grade 30 (proof coil)
>>
>>A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
>>weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
>>pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
>>the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
>>you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>>
>>Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>>
>>Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
>>work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>>
>>Cheers.
>>
>>Jerry McG wrote:
>>
>>>Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
>
> pound
>
>>>rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
>
> up
>
>>>on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
>
> springs
>
>>>and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
>
> side of
>
>>>the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
>
> it's
>
>>>springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
>>>springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
>>>
>>> The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
>
> are
>
>>>too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
>>>would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
>
> them.
>
>>>Any ideas are appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
response)
The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
or strap.
The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
(desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
than you planned. Mistakes happen.
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
>>you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
>>will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>>
>>I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
>>stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
>>mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
>>This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
>>lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
>>that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
>>wheels and ancor them down.
>>
>>If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
>>crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
>>hammering on the straps.
>>
>>Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
>>over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
>>Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
>>panic.
>>
>>Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
>>They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
>>Screw type load binder Item# 143114
>>for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
>>grade 30 (proof coil)
>>
>>A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
>>weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
>>pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
>>the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
>>you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>>
>>Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>>
>>Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
>>work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>>
>>Cheers.
>>
>>Jerry McG wrote:
>>
>>>Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
>
> pound
>
>>>rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
>
> up
>
>>>on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
>
> springs
>
>>>and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
>
> side of
>
>>>the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
>
> it's
>
>>>springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
>>>springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
>>>
>>> The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
>
> are
>
>>>too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
>>>would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
>
> them.
>
>>>Any ideas are appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
response)
The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
or strap.
The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
(desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
than you planned. Mistakes happen.
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
>>you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
>>will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>>
>>I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
>>stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
>>mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
>>This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
>>lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
>>that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
>>wheels and ancor them down.
>>
>>If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
>>crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
>>hammering on the straps.
>>
>>Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
>>over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
>>Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
>>panic.
>>
>>Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
>>They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
>>Screw type load binder Item# 143114
>>for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
>>grade 30 (proof coil)
>>
>>A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
>>weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
>>pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
>>the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
>>you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>>
>>Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>>
>>Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
>>work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>>
>>Cheers.
>>
>>Jerry McG wrote:
>>
>>>Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
>
> pound
>
>>>rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
>
> up
>
>>>on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
>
> springs
>
>>>and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
>
> side of
>
>>>the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
>
> it's
>
>>>springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
>>>springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
>>>
>>> The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
>
> are
>
>>>too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
>>>would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
>
> them.
>
>>>Any ideas are appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
response)
The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
or strap.
The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
(desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
than you planned. Mistakes happen.
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
>>you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
>>will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>>
>>I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
>>stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
>>mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
>>This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
>>lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
>>that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
>>wheels and ancor them down.
>>
>>If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
>>crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
>>hammering on the straps.
>>
>>Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
>>over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
>>Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
>>panic.
>>
>>Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
>>They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
>>Screw type load binder Item# 143114
>>for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
>>grade 30 (proof coil)
>>
>>A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
>>weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
>>pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
>>the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
>>you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>>
>>Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>>
>>Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
>>work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>>
>>Cheers.
>>
>>Jerry McG wrote:
>>
>>>Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
>
> pound
>
>>>rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
>
> up
>
>>>on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
>
> springs
>
>>>and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
>
> side of
>
>>>the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
>
> it's
>
>>>springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
>>>springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
>>>
>>> The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
>
> are
>
>>>too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
>>>would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
>
> them.
>
>>>Any ideas are appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
response)
The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
or strap.
The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
(desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
than you planned. Mistakes happen.
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
>>you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
>>will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>>
>>I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
>>stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
>>mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
>>This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
>>lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
>>that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
>>wheels and ancor them down.
>>
>>If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
>>crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
>>hammering on the straps.
>>
>>Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
>>over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
>>Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
>>panic.
>>
>>Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
>>They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
>>Screw type load binder Item# 143114
>>for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
>>grade 30 (proof coil)
>>
>>A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
>>weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
>>pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
>>the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
>>you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>>
>>Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>>
>>Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
>>work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>>
>>Cheers.
>>
>>Jerry McG wrote:
>>
>>>Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
>
> pound
>
>>>rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
>
> up
>
>>>on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
>
> springs
>
>>>and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
>
> side of
>
>>>the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
>
> it's
>
>>>springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
>>>springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
>>>
>>> The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
>
> are
>
>>>too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
>>>would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
>
> them.
>
>>>Any ideas are appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
response)
The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
or strap.
The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
(desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
than you planned. Mistakes happen.
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
>>you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
>>will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>>
>>I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
>>stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
>>mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
>>This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
>>lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
>>that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
>>wheels and ancor them down.
>>
>>If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
>>crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
>>hammering on the straps.
>>
>>Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
>>over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
>>Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
>>panic.
>>
>>Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
>>They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
>>Screw type load binder Item# 143114
>>for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
>>grade 30 (proof coil)
>>
>>A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
>>weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
>>pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
>>the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
>>you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>>
>>Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>>
>>Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
>>work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>>
>>Cheers.
>>
>>Jerry McG wrote:
>>
>>>Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
>
> pound
>
>>>rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
>
> up
>
>>>on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
>
> springs
>
>>>and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
>
> side of
>
>>>the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
>
> it's
>
>>>springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
>>>springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
>>>
>>> The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
>
> are
>
>>>too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
>>>would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
>
> them.
>
>>>Any ideas are appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
response)
The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
or strap.
The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
(desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
than you planned. Mistakes happen.
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
>>you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
>>will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>>
>>I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
>>stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
>>mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
>>This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
>>lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
>>that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
>>wheels and ancor them down.
>>
>>If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
>>crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
>>hammering on the straps.
>>
>>Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
>>over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
>>Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
>>panic.
>>
>>Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
>>They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
>>Screw type load binder Item# 143114
>>for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
>>grade 30 (proof coil)
>>
>>A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
>>weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
>>pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
>>the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
>>you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>>
>>Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>>
>>Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
>>work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>>
>>Cheers.
>>
>>Jerry McG wrote:
>>
>>>Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
>
> pound
>
>>>rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
>
> up
>
>>>on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
>
> springs
>
>>>and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
>
> side of
>
>>>the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
>
> it's
>
>>>springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
>>>springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
>>>
>>> The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
>
> are
>
>>>too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
>>>would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
>
> them.
>
>>>Any ideas are appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
response)
The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
or strap.
The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
(desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
than you planned. Mistakes happen.
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>
>>You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
>>you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
>>will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>>
>>I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
>>stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
>>mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
>>This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
>>lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
>>that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
>>wheels and ancor them down.
>>
>>If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
>>crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
>>hammering on the straps.
>>
>>Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
>>over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
>>Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
>>panic.
>>
>>Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
>>They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
>>Screw type load binder Item# 143114
>>for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
>>grade 30 (proof coil)
>>
>>A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
>>weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
>>pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
>>the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
>>you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>>
>>Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>>
>>Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
>>work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>>
>>Cheers.
>>
>>Jerry McG wrote:
>>
>>>Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
>
> pound
>
>>>rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
>
> up
>
>>>on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
>
> springs
>
>>>and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
>
> side of
>
>>>the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
>
> it's
>
>>>springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
>>>springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
>>>
>>> The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
>
> are
>
>>>too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
>>>would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
>
> them.
>
>>>Any ideas are appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
And like a truck driver who will be ticketed if the load shifts,
always recheck the straps at stops. Often I would find a problem with
the initial ten mile or wide spot, stop.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
> suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
> trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
>
> I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
> have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
> response)
>
> The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
> jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
> rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
>
> The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
> really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
> is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
> downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
> or strap.
>
> The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
> do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
> length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
> (desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
> than you planned. Mistakes happen.
always recheck the straps at stops. Often I would find a problem with
the initial ten mile or wide spot, stop.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
> suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
> trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
>
> I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
> have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
> response)
>
> The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
> jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
> rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
>
> The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
> really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
> is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
> downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
> or strap.
>
> The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
> do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
> length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
> (desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
> than you planned. Mistakes happen.
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
And like a truck driver who will be ticketed if the load shifts,
always recheck the straps at stops. Often I would find a problem with
the initial ten mile or wide spot, stop.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
> suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
> trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
>
> I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
> have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
> response)
>
> The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
> jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
> rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
>
> The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
> really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
> is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
> downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
> or strap.
>
> The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
> do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
> length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
> (desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
> than you planned. Mistakes happen.
always recheck the straps at stops. Often I would find a problem with
the initial ten mile or wide spot, stop.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
> suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
> trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
>
> I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
> have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
> response)
>
> The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
> jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
> rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
>
> The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
> really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
> is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
> downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
> or strap.
>
> The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
> do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
> length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
> (desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
> than you planned. Mistakes happen.
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
And like a truck driver who will be ticketed if the load shifts,
always recheck the straps at stops. Often I would find a problem with
the initial ten mile or wide spot, stop.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
> suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
> trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
>
> I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
> have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
> response)
>
> The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
> jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
> rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
>
> The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
> really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
> is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
> downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
> or strap.
>
> The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
> do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
> length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
> (desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
> than you planned. Mistakes happen.
always recheck the straps at stops. Often I would find a problem with
the initial ten mile or wide spot, stop.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
RoyJ wrote:
>
> I really can't buy into the bearing galling explination. Having the
> suspension on the jeep softening up the jarring coming up from the
> trailer should LOWER the galling effects. (Less impact)
>
> I will buy the issue of running chains over the axles, the brake lines
> have a nasty tendency to get in the way. (mentioned that in my original
> response)
>
> The car transports have what looks like almost zero clearance, they just
> jam them on! They have to tie to the fram to keep down the chance of
> rubbing against the various trailer frame parts.
>
> The key thing is that you have to either tie down at the wheels or
> really crank down the frame ties (like Matt does). The worst thing to do
> is have the jeep constantly doing the slack and jerk routine on the tie
> downs. Hard on the trailer, hard on the jeep, really hard on the chain
> or strap.
>
> The other key thing is to make sure that the tie down method is easy to
> do RIGHT. Permanent heavy duty rings bolted to the trailer frame, cut to
> length chains marked Right front, etc. Picture getting out of the woods
> (desert) in the middle of a storm, in the dark, about 6 hours later
> than you planned. Mistakes happen.