Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
07-20-2004, 12:24 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Thanks for the info.
I ended up getting some short chains with hooks from a trucking outfit,
removing the short strap & hook from the ratchet and installing the chains
in their place. I then hooked the chains to the frame tie-down holes and the
straps to the trailer stake pockets. I loaded the suspension down with the
ratchets enough there was virtually no movement to be felt at all. Towed
much better this way, no damage to the straps, etc.
"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10foiaajeaejafb@corp.supernews.com...
> I strapped my CJ5 to the trailer by strapping the rear axle over the
pumpkin
> so the strap was on rounded edges that didn't cut it, then used the tow
> hooks on the front bumper to hold the springs down and control the swaying
> that you noticed.
>
> No matter what you do, you want to be sure there are no sharp edges that
can
> cut the straps, and you want to be sure the vehicle can not bounce enough
to
> allow the straps to fall off. As Bill mentioned, you need to be sure the
> vehicle is forward on the trailer enough to prevent the trailer itself
from
> swaying out of control.
>
> Not that this is relevent, but I went to Home Depot to get some railroad
> ties for a landscape project. The ties are 9 ft long, my GI issue trailer
is
> 6 ft long. With the tailgate down, there is plenty of room to physically
> hold the railroad ties, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize
> the center of the weight is a good foot and a half behind the center line
of
> the axles. Instead of having a positive weight on the tongue, I had a
> negative weight of two or three hundred pounds. The implication of this
> became apparent to me the instant my speed got to about 25 mph. The
trailer
> yanked me sideways so hard that I thought my life was coming to an end.
The
> idiot behind me thought he could get by by driving on the center median as
I
> went from the gutter to the yellow line just to stay in front of the
> trailer.
>
> I frequently load my trailer with camping gear in such a manner as to have
> only about 50 or 100 pounds on the tongue, but in terms of camping gear
that
> is both light and low in the trailer, the dreaded swaying is completely
> unnoticable. But, the landscape logs were another matter entirely. Your
Jeep
> on a trailer is more akin to my landscape logs than my camping gear. You
> need the weight of your Jeep forward on the trailer so there is sufficient
> weight on the tongue. A lack of sufficient weight on the tongue will lead
to
> the trailer istelf swaying, no matter how well you have the Jeep lashed
> down.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:cdfgmj02dvg@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side
> of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
> it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
> them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
>
>
I ended up getting some short chains with hooks from a trucking outfit,
removing the short strap & hook from the ratchet and installing the chains
in their place. I then hooked the chains to the frame tie-down holes and the
straps to the trailer stake pockets. I loaded the suspension down with the
ratchets enough there was virtually no movement to be felt at all. Towed
much better this way, no damage to the straps, etc.
"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:10foiaajeaejafb@corp.supernews.com...
> I strapped my CJ5 to the trailer by strapping the rear axle over the
pumpkin
> so the strap was on rounded edges that didn't cut it, then used the tow
> hooks on the front bumper to hold the springs down and control the swaying
> that you noticed.
>
> No matter what you do, you want to be sure there are no sharp edges that
can
> cut the straps, and you want to be sure the vehicle can not bounce enough
to
> allow the straps to fall off. As Bill mentioned, you need to be sure the
> vehicle is forward on the trailer enough to prevent the trailer itself
from
> swaying out of control.
>
> Not that this is relevent, but I went to Home Depot to get some railroad
> ties for a landscape project. The ties are 9 ft long, my GI issue trailer
is
> 6 ft long. With the tailgate down, there is plenty of room to physically
> hold the railroad ties, but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize
> the center of the weight is a good foot and a half behind the center line
of
> the axles. Instead of having a positive weight on the tongue, I had a
> negative weight of two or three hundred pounds. The implication of this
> became apparent to me the instant my speed got to about 25 mph. The
trailer
> yanked me sideways so hard that I thought my life was coming to an end.
The
> idiot behind me thought he could get by by driving on the center median as
I
> went from the gutter to the yellow line just to stay in front of the
> trailer.
>
> I frequently load my trailer with camping gear in such a manner as to have
> only about 50 or 100 pounds on the tongue, but in terms of camping gear
that
> is both light and low in the trailer, the dreaded swaying is completely
> unnoticable. But, the landscape logs were another matter entirely. Your
Jeep
> on a trailer is more akin to my landscape logs than my camping gear. You
> need the weight of your Jeep forward on the trailer so there is sufficient
> weight on the tongue. A lack of sufficient weight on the tongue will lead
to
> the trailer istelf swaying, no matter how well you have the Jeep lashed
> down.
>
>
>
>
>
> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:cdfgmj02dvg@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side
> of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
> it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
> them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
>
>
07-20-2004, 12:27 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Great feedback, thanks!
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
07-20-2004, 12:27 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Great feedback, thanks!
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
07-20-2004, 12:27 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Great feedback, thanks!
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
07-20-2004, 12:27 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Great feedback, thanks!
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
07-22-2004, 10:18 AM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
at the frame.
On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
damaging your bearings that way.
Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
for a reason.
If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
at the frame.
On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
damaging your bearings that way.
Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
for a reason.
If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
07-22-2004, 10:18 AM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
at the frame.
On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
damaging your bearings that way.
Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
for a reason.
If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
at the frame.
On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
damaging your bearings that way.
Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
for a reason.
If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
07-22-2004, 10:18 AM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
at the frame.
On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
damaging your bearings that way.
Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
for a reason.
If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
at the frame.
On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
damaging your bearings that way.
Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
for a reason.
If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
07-22-2004, 10:18 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
at the frame.
On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
damaging your bearings that way.
Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
for a reason.
If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
at the frame.
On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
damaging your bearings that way.
Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
for a reason.
If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:cJYKc.7537$mL5.4753@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> You have a couple of choices: tie down the wheels or tie down frame. If
> you tie down the wheels/axles, the jeep suspension is in full play, it
> will soften the bumps to the jeep.
>
> I personally like to have the wheels fit into some permamently mounted
> stops. Then get some tie down chains that loop over each axle end,
> mounted to the trailer, and fastened down with screw type hold downs.
> This setup guarantees that you have the right trailer balance plus it
> lets the jeep suspension work with the trailer. Or use the strap setups
> that you can see at a U-Haul place. These are webs that go over the
> wheels and ancor them down.
>
> If you tie down the frame, you need to use 4 chains or straps, then
> crank things down tight enough so the jeep is not bouncing up and down,
> hammering on the straps.
>
> Permanently position your hold downs so that the chains can be looped
> over the axles without hitting brake lines and other useful stuff.
> Loading your trailer in the rain after dark should be a picnic, not a
> panic.
>
> Check with www.northerntool.com under "trailer parts" - "hardware"
> They have lots of tie down rings: Item# 330291, Item# 127287
> Screw type load binder Item# 143114
> for chain, use grade 43 (high test) or grade 70 (transport), not the
> grade 30 (proof coil)
>
> A few safety things: Your tongue weight should be 10% of the gross
> weight of the trailer and jeep. For your rig that means at least 500
> pounds! You and your weight lifting friend should not be able to lift
> the trailer up onto the hitch ball when loaded. Faiure to do this give
> you the dreaded fishtail, same implications as the dreaded DEATH WOBBLE.
>
> Get your brakes properly adjusted, check them out on each trip.
>
> Make sure your lights are properly protected from damage and that they
> work properly. Especially the Left turn blinker.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> > Ok, so I got the trailer for the Jeep, a Top Hat 16' double axle 10k
pound
> > rated. Now, what's the best way to lash the Jeep down to it? I drove it
up
> > on the trailer today and used 4 2" ratchet straps looped over the
springs
> > and behind the u-bolts and hooked to the tie down rail points on the
side of
> > the trailer bed. This worked okk, but I could feel the Jeep rocking on
it's
> > springs as I towed it, and the straps got chewed up by the edges of the
> > springs. Looks like I need to tie it down using the frame instead.
> >
> > The frame has some tie-down holes but the hooks on the ratchet straps
are
> > too big for them. I thought someone might make some dedicated hooks that
> > would fit in these and then I could I could tie the ratchet straps to
them.
> > Any ideas are appreciated.
> >
> >
07-22-2004, 01:25 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Trailer Tie Down Reommendations
Hi Matt,
Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2484552279
I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)
Except, you know the car dolly is not designed to use the frame:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2484552279
I agree with you to use the frame on your own car, as the axles are the
weakest point say if you were to attempt to pull a vehicle by them.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> Last year a towing article in one of the 4x4 mags prompted a lot of reader
> mail, most all of which said DO NOT tie down at the wheels/axles, tie down
> at the frame.
>
> On of the reader's letters explained the reason for this is if you tie down
> at the wheels and let the suspensions bounce, you run the risk of galling
> the axle bearing races because the suspension is bouncing without the wheels
> turning. I supposed doing it on a short term wouldn't hurt (like when a tow
> truck is involved) but if you are towing your Jeep a long way, you might be
> damaging your bearings that way.
>
> Think of how new vehicles are transported. They are loaded onto the carrier
> and hooked down TIGHT on the frame. Those oval holes in the frame are there
> for a reason.
>
> If you hook around the axle you are going to damage brake lines, etc. And if
> your trailer has springs, the jeep suspension doesn't have to work.
>
> When I trailer-tow I use 4 3500# ratchet straps I got at Tractor Supply Co
> and hook assemblies I bought from awdirect.com. (TJ's use T-hooks.) Cross
> the fronts (the gas tank prevents crossing the rears on the TJ) and jam them
> down until there's almost no suspension movement. And CHECK THEM AT EVERY
> STOP. Ratchet straps can and will come loose. My tow vehicle is an F250
> Superduty with the V10 gas engine, so I stop for gas pretty often. :-)