|
Re: Towing
Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for a load from the side. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > Greg > Jeff Strickland wrote: >> HOOKS? >> Get rid of it. Now. >> >> Class One receiver? >> That is not adequate for recovery. >> >> >> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by >> whatever >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated >> at >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the >> next available winch capacity. >> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point >> can >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch >> is >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to >> 10,000 >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle >> several >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. >> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid >> of >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is >> better. >> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. >> The >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and >> be >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not >> drive >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging >> him, >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in >> danger >> of driving on the strap. >> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep >> should >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all >> Jeeps >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be >> considered >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the >> other end of the tow strap. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... >> > Hello. >> > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> > reciever if that makes any difference. >> > >> > Greg >> > > |
Re: Towing
Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for a load from the side. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > Greg > Jeff Strickland wrote: >> HOOKS? >> Get rid of it. Now. >> >> Class One receiver? >> That is not adequate for recovery. >> >> >> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by >> whatever >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated >> at >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the >> next available winch capacity. >> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point >> can >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch >> is >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to >> 10,000 >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle >> several >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. >> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid >> of >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is >> better. >> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. >> The >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and >> be >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not >> drive >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging >> him, >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in >> danger >> of driving on the strap. >> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep >> should >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all >> Jeeps >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be >> considered >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the >> other end of the tow strap. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... >> > Hello. >> > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> > reciever if that makes any difference. >> > >> > Greg >> > > |
Re: Towing
Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for a load from the side. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > Greg > Jeff Strickland wrote: >> HOOKS? >> Get rid of it. Now. >> >> Class One receiver? >> That is not adequate for recovery. >> >> >> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by >> whatever >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated >> at >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the >> next available winch capacity. >> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point >> can >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch >> is >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to >> 10,000 >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle >> several >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. >> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid >> of >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is >> better. >> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. >> The >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and >> be >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not >> drive >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging >> him, >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in >> danger >> of driving on the strap. >> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep >> should >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all >> Jeeps >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be >> considered >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the >> other end of the tow strap. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... >> > Hello. >> > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> > reciever if that makes any difference. >> > >> > Greg >> > > |
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06... > Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep. > > The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the > side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for > a load from the side. > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > > > Greg > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > >> HOOKS? > >> Get rid of it. Now. > >> > >> Class One receiver? > >> That is not adequate for recovery. > >> > >> > >> > >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by > >> whatever > >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated > >> at > >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > >> next available winch capacity. > >> > >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point > >> can > >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch > >> is > >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to > >> 10,000 > >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle > >> several > >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > >> > >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid > >> of > >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is > >> better. > >> > >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. > >> The > >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and > >> be > >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not > >> drive > >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging > >> him, > >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in > >> danger > >> of driving on the strap. > >> > >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep > >> should > >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all > >> Jeeps > >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be > >> considered > >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > >> other end of the tow strap. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > >> > Hello. > >> > > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> > reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > > >> > Greg > >> > > > > |
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06... > Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep. > > The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the > side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for > a load from the side. > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > > > Greg > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > >> HOOKS? > >> Get rid of it. Now. > >> > >> Class One receiver? > >> That is not adequate for recovery. > >> > >> > >> > >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by > >> whatever > >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated > >> at > >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > >> next available winch capacity. > >> > >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point > >> can > >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch > >> is > >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to > >> 10,000 > >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle > >> several > >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > >> > >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid > >> of > >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is > >> better. > >> > >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. > >> The > >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and > >> be > >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not > >> drive > >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging > >> him, > >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in > >> danger > >> of driving on the strap. > >> > >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep > >> should > >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all > >> Jeeps > >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be > >> considered > >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > >> other end of the tow strap. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > >> > Hello. > >> > > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> > reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > > >> > Greg > >> > > > > |
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06... > Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep. > > The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the > side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for > a load from the side. > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > > > Greg > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > >> HOOKS? > >> Get rid of it. Now. > >> > >> Class One receiver? > >> That is not adequate for recovery. > >> > >> > >> > >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by > >> whatever > >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated > >> at > >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > >> next available winch capacity. > >> > >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point > >> can > >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch > >> is > >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to > >> 10,000 > >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle > >> several > >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > >> > >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid > >> of > >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is > >> better. > >> > >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. > >> The > >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and > >> be > >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not > >> drive > >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging > >> him, > >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in > >> danger > >> of driving on the strap. > >> > >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep > >> should > >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all > >> Jeeps > >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be > >> considered > >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > >> other end of the tow strap. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > >> > Hello. > >> > > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> > reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > > >> > Greg > >> > > > > |
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06... > Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep. > > The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the > side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for > a load from the side. > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > > > Greg > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > >> HOOKS? > >> Get rid of it. Now. > >> > >> Class One receiver? > >> That is not adequate for recovery. > >> > >> > >> > >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by > >> whatever > >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated > >> at > >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > >> next available winch capacity. > >> > >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point > >> can > >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch > >> is > >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to > >> 10,000 > >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle > >> several > >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > >> > >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid > >> of > >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is > >> better. > >> > >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. > >> The > >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and > >> be > >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not > >> drive > >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging > >> him, > >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in > >> danger > >> of driving on the strap. > >> > >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep > >> should > >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all > >> Jeeps > >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be > >> considered > >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > >> other end of the tow strap. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > >> > Hello. > >> > > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> > reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > > >> > Greg > >> > > > > |
Re: Towing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > tear the bumper off. It depends on the hitch and receiver. I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap. (I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching, and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell. This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on to the back of TJ's these days. I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of deep mud (with another semi) without a problem. I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times. I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a need for this, so I won't elaborate. IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP, dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your Jeep will support towing that much weight. |
Re: Towing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > tear the bumper off. It depends on the hitch and receiver. I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap. (I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching, and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell. This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on to the back of TJ's these days. I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of deep mud (with another semi) without a problem. I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times. I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a need for this, so I won't elaborate. IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP, dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your Jeep will support towing that much weight. |
Re: Towing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > tear the bumper off. It depends on the hitch and receiver. I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap. (I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching, and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell. This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on to the back of TJ's these days. I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of deep mud (with another semi) without a problem. I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times. I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a need for this, so I won't elaborate. IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP, dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your Jeep will support towing that much weight. |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:51 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands