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Towing
Hello.
Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one reciever if that makes any difference. Greg |
Re: Towing
HOOKS?
Get rid of it. Now. Class One receiver? That is not adequate for recovery. Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the next available winch capacity. Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000 pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several times the weight that I can reasonably pull. Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better. Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him, but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger of driving on the strap. If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the other end of the tow strap. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
HOOKS?
Get rid of it. Now. Class One receiver? That is not adequate for recovery. Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the next available winch capacity. Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000 pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several times the weight that I can reasonably pull. Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better. Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him, but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger of driving on the strap. If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the other end of the tow strap. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
HOOKS?
Get rid of it. Now. Class One receiver? That is not adequate for recovery. Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the next available winch capacity. Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000 pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several times the weight that I can reasonably pull. Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better. Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him, but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger of driving on the strap. If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the other end of the tow strap. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
HOOKS?
Get rid of it. Now. Class One receiver? That is not adequate for recovery. Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the next available winch capacity. Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000 pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several times the weight that I can reasonably pull. Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better. Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him, but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger of driving on the strap. If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the other end of the tow strap. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
jerryg wrote:
> Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > Those are for towing and not vehicle recovery offroad. What you want for that is a 'snatch strap'. It's more elastic and has no metal projectiles on it. tw -- __________________________________________________ ___________________ 2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco "There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'." Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. __________________________________________________ ___________________ |
Re: Towing
jerryg wrote:
> Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > Those are for towing and not vehicle recovery offroad. What you want for that is a 'snatch strap'. It's more elastic and has no metal projectiles on it. tw -- __________________________________________________ ___________________ 2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco "There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'." Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. __________________________________________________ ___________________ |
Re: Towing
jerryg wrote:
> Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > Those are for towing and not vehicle recovery offroad. What you want for that is a 'snatch strap'. It's more elastic and has no metal projectiles on it. tw -- __________________________________________________ ___________________ 2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco "There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'." Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. __________________________________________________ ___________________ |
Re: Towing
jerryg wrote:
> Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > Those are for towing and not vehicle recovery offroad. What you want for that is a 'snatch strap'. It's more elastic and has no metal projectiles on it. tw -- __________________________________________________ ___________________ 2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco "There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'." Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. __________________________________________________ ___________________ |
Re: Towing
Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
Greg Jeff Strickland wrote: > HOOKS? > Get rid of it. Now. > > Class One receiver? > That is not adequate for recovery. > > > > Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever > makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at > double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > next available winch capacity. > > Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can > not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is > rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000 > pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several > times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > > Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of > your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better. > > Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The > driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be > able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive > over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him, > but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger > of driving on the strap. > > If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should > be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps > weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered > to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > other end of the tow strap. > > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > > Hello. > > > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > > reciever if that makes any difference. > > > > Greg > > |
Re: Towing
Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
Greg Jeff Strickland wrote: > HOOKS? > Get rid of it. Now. > > Class One receiver? > That is not adequate for recovery. > > > > Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever > makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at > double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > next available winch capacity. > > Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can > not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is > rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000 > pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several > times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > > Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of > your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better. > > Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The > driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be > able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive > over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him, > but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger > of driving on the strap. > > If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should > be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps > weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered > to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > other end of the tow strap. > > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > > Hello. > > > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > > reciever if that makes any difference. > > > > Greg > > |
Re: Towing
Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
Greg Jeff Strickland wrote: > HOOKS? > Get rid of it. Now. > > Class One receiver? > That is not adequate for recovery. > > > > Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever > makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at > double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > next available winch capacity. > > Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can > not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is > rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000 > pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several > times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > > Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of > your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better. > > Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The > driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be > able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive > over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him, > but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger > of driving on the strap. > > If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should > be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps > weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered > to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > other end of the tow strap. > > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > > Hello. > > > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > > reciever if that makes any difference. > > > > Greg > > |
Re: Towing
Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
Greg Jeff Strickland wrote: > HOOKS? > Get rid of it. Now. > > Class One receiver? > That is not adequate for recovery. > > > > Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever > makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at > double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > next available winch capacity. > > Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can > not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is > rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000 > pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several > times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > > Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of > your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better. > > Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The > driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be > able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive > over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him, > but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger > of driving on the strap. > > If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should > be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps > weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered > to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > other end of the tow strap. > > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > > Hello. > > > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > > reciever if that makes any difference. > > > > Greg > > |
Re: Towing
You can get by with the strap you bought, provided you cut the steel
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max. Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket midway over the snatch strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to 4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently accellerates. Piece of cake. jerryg wrote: > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
You can get by with the strap you bought, provided you cut the steel
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max. Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket midway over the snatch strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to 4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently accellerates. Piece of cake. jerryg wrote: > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
You can get by with the strap you bought, provided you cut the steel
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max. Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket midway over the snatch strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to 4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently accellerates. Piece of cake. jerryg wrote: > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
You can get by with the strap you bought, provided you cut the steel
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max. Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket midway over the snatch strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to 4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently accellerates. Piece of cake. jerryg wrote: > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself
or someone else. Seriously! There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just tear the bumper off. There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to start. 4x4 helps with this. If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking motion, so you can get going pretty good. I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to hold the one doing the winching in place. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) jerryg wrote: > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself
or someone else. Seriously! There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just tear the bumper off. There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to start. 4x4 helps with this. If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking motion, so you can get going pretty good. I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to hold the one doing the winching in place. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) jerryg wrote: > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself
or someone else. Seriously! There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just tear the bumper off. There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to start. 4x4 helps with this. If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking motion, so you can get going pretty good. I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to hold the one doing the winching in place. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) jerryg wrote: > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself
or someone else. Seriously! There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just tear the bumper off. There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to start. 4x4 helps with this. If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking motion, so you can get going pretty good. I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to hold the one doing the winching in place. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) jerryg wrote: > Hello. > > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > reciever if that makes any difference. > > Greg > |
Re: Towing
That being said, which is very good advice
The best thing to do when pulling other cars out of the ditch is to call a tow truck :-) Nothing worse than doing serious damage the other person's vehicle when you were just trying to be helpful Unless there's good tow hooks on the car I'd be hesitant Mike Romain wrote: > You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself > or someone else. Seriously! > > There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! > > I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties > and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they > are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. > > You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > tear the bumper off. > > There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without > proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. > > For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting > a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from > going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to > start. 4x4 helps with this. > > If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the > snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking > motion, so you can get going pretty good. > > I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck > vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to > hold the one doing the winching in place. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > jerryg wrote: > >> Hello. >> >> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> reciever if that makes any difference. >> >> Greg >> |
Re: Towing
That being said, which is very good advice
The best thing to do when pulling other cars out of the ditch is to call a tow truck :-) Nothing worse than doing serious damage the other person's vehicle when you were just trying to be helpful Unless there's good tow hooks on the car I'd be hesitant Mike Romain wrote: > You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself > or someone else. Seriously! > > There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! > > I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties > and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they > are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. > > You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > tear the bumper off. > > There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without > proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. > > For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting > a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from > going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to > start. 4x4 helps with this. > > If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the > snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking > motion, so you can get going pretty good. > > I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck > vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to > hold the one doing the winching in place. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > jerryg wrote: > >> Hello. >> >> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> reciever if that makes any difference. >> >> Greg >> |
Re: Towing
That being said, which is very good advice
The best thing to do when pulling other cars out of the ditch is to call a tow truck :-) Nothing worse than doing serious damage the other person's vehicle when you were just trying to be helpful Unless there's good tow hooks on the car I'd be hesitant Mike Romain wrote: > You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself > or someone else. Seriously! > > There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! > > I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties > and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they > are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. > > You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > tear the bumper off. > > There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without > proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. > > For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting > a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from > going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to > start. 4x4 helps with this. > > If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the > snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking > motion, so you can get going pretty good. > > I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck > vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to > hold the one doing the winching in place. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > jerryg wrote: > >> Hello. >> >> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> reciever if that makes any difference. >> >> Greg >> |
Re: Towing
That being said, which is very good advice
The best thing to do when pulling other cars out of the ditch is to call a tow truck :-) Nothing worse than doing serious damage the other person's vehicle when you were just trying to be helpful Unless there's good tow hooks on the car I'd be hesitant Mike Romain wrote: > You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself > or someone else. Seriously! > > There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! > > I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties > and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they > are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. > > You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > tear the bumper off. > > There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without > proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. > > For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting > a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from > going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to > start. 4x4 helps with this. > > If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the > snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking > motion, so you can get going pretty good. > > I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck > vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to > hold the one doing the winching in place. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > jerryg wrote: > >> Hello. >> >> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> reciever if that makes any difference. >> >> Greg >> |
Re: Towing
We used to use chains in the orchard where I worked all the time, big, thick
chains with huge hooks on the end of them. Then we would try to jerk a tractor trailer out of the ditch with a piece of farm equipment that was way too small for the job. We always got it out too. It is a wonder no one ever got killed. Earle "FrankW" <fworm@norpak.ca> wrote in message news:iaOdnYDoAd-JTSnYnZ2dnUVZ_v-tnZ2d@magma.ca... > That being said, which is very good advice > > The best thing to do when pulling other cars out of the ditch > is to call a tow truck :-) Nothing worse than doing serious damage > the other person's vehicle when you were just trying to be helpful > Unless there's good tow hooks on the car I'd be hesitant > > Mike Romain wrote: > > You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself > > or someone else. Seriously! > > > > There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! > > > > I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties > > and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they > > are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. > > > > You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > > tear the bumper off. > > > > There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without > > proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. > > > > For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting > > a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from > > going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to > > start. 4x4 helps with this. > > > > If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the > > snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking > > motion, so you can get going pretty good. > > > > I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck > > vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to > > hold the one doing the winching in place. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > jerryg wrote: > > > >> Hello. > >> > >> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > >> Greg > >> > |
Re: Towing
We used to use chains in the orchard where I worked all the time, big, thick
chains with huge hooks on the end of them. Then we would try to jerk a tractor trailer out of the ditch with a piece of farm equipment that was way too small for the job. We always got it out too. It is a wonder no one ever got killed. Earle "FrankW" <fworm@norpak.ca> wrote in message news:iaOdnYDoAd-JTSnYnZ2dnUVZ_v-tnZ2d@magma.ca... > That being said, which is very good advice > > The best thing to do when pulling other cars out of the ditch > is to call a tow truck :-) Nothing worse than doing serious damage > the other person's vehicle when you were just trying to be helpful > Unless there's good tow hooks on the car I'd be hesitant > > Mike Romain wrote: > > You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself > > or someone else. Seriously! > > > > There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! > > > > I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties > > and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they > > are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. > > > > You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > > tear the bumper off. > > > > There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without > > proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. > > > > For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting > > a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from > > going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to > > start. 4x4 helps with this. > > > > If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the > > snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking > > motion, so you can get going pretty good. > > > > I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck > > vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to > > hold the one doing the winching in place. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > jerryg wrote: > > > >> Hello. > >> > >> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > >> Greg > >> > |
Re: Towing
We used to use chains in the orchard where I worked all the time, big, thick
chains with huge hooks on the end of them. Then we would try to jerk a tractor trailer out of the ditch with a piece of farm equipment that was way too small for the job. We always got it out too. It is a wonder no one ever got killed. Earle "FrankW" <fworm@norpak.ca> wrote in message news:iaOdnYDoAd-JTSnYnZ2dnUVZ_v-tnZ2d@magma.ca... > That being said, which is very good advice > > The best thing to do when pulling other cars out of the ditch > is to call a tow truck :-) Nothing worse than doing serious damage > the other person's vehicle when you were just trying to be helpful > Unless there's good tow hooks on the car I'd be hesitant > > Mike Romain wrote: > > You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself > > or someone else. Seriously! > > > > There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! > > > > I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties > > and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they > > are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. > > > > You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > > tear the bumper off. > > > > There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without > > proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. > > > > For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting > > a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from > > going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to > > start. 4x4 helps with this. > > > > If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the > > snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking > > motion, so you can get going pretty good. > > > > I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck > > vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to > > hold the one doing the winching in place. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > jerryg wrote: > > > >> Hello. > >> > >> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > >> Greg > >> > |
Re: Towing
We used to use chains in the orchard where I worked all the time, big, thick
chains with huge hooks on the end of them. Then we would try to jerk a tractor trailer out of the ditch with a piece of farm equipment that was way too small for the job. We always got it out too. It is a wonder no one ever got killed. Earle "FrankW" <fworm@norpak.ca> wrote in message news:iaOdnYDoAd-JTSnYnZ2dnUVZ_v-tnZ2d@magma.ca... > That being said, which is very good advice > > The best thing to do when pulling other cars out of the ditch > is to call a tow truck :-) Nothing worse than doing serious damage > the other person's vehicle when you were just trying to be helpful > Unless there's good tow hooks on the car I'd be hesitant > > Mike Romain wrote: > > You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself > > or someone else. Seriously! > > > > There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period! > > > > I would recommend you get the 'snatch strap' that has elastic properties > > and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they > > are solid for towing. Using one to snatch a vehicle 'will' break stuff. > > > > You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > > tear the bumper off. > > > > There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without > > proper tow hooks mounted to the frame. > > > > For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting > > a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from > > going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to > > start. 4x4 helps with this. > > > > If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the > > snatch strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking > > motion, so you can get going pretty good. > > > > I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck > > vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to > > hold the one doing the winching in place. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > jerryg wrote: > > > >> Hello. > >> > >> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > >> Greg > >> > |
Re: Towing
Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for a load from the side. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > Greg > Jeff Strickland wrote: >> HOOKS? >> Get rid of it. Now. >> >> Class One receiver? >> That is not adequate for recovery. >> >> >> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by >> whatever >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated >> at >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the >> next available winch capacity. >> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point >> can >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch >> is >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to >> 10,000 >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle >> several >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. >> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid >> of >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is >> better. >> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. >> The >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and >> be >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not >> drive >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging >> him, >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in >> danger >> of driving on the strap. >> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep >> should >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all >> Jeeps >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be >> considered >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the >> other end of the tow strap. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... >> > Hello. >> > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> > reciever if that makes any difference. >> > >> > Greg >> > > |
Re: Towing
Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for a load from the side. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > Greg > Jeff Strickland wrote: >> HOOKS? >> Get rid of it. Now. >> >> Class One receiver? >> That is not adequate for recovery. >> >> >> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by >> whatever >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated >> at >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the >> next available winch capacity. >> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point >> can >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch >> is >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to >> 10,000 >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle >> several >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. >> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid >> of >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is >> better. >> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. >> The >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and >> be >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not >> drive >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging >> him, >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in >> danger >> of driving on the strap. >> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep >> should >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all >> Jeeps >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be >> considered >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the >> other end of the tow strap. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... >> > Hello. >> > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> > reciever if that makes any difference. >> > >> > Greg >> > > |
Re: Towing
Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for a load from the side. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > Greg > Jeff Strickland wrote: >> HOOKS? >> Get rid of it. Now. >> >> Class One receiver? >> That is not adequate for recovery. >> >> >> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by >> whatever >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated >> at >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the >> next available winch capacity. >> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point >> can >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch >> is >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to >> 10,000 >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle >> several >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. >> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid >> of >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is >> better. >> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. >> The >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and >> be >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not >> drive >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging >> him, >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in >> danger >> of driving on the strap. >> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep >> should >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all >> Jeeps >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be >> considered >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the >> other end of the tow strap. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... >> > Hello. >> > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> > reciever if that makes any difference. >> > >> > Greg >> > > |
Re: Towing
Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for a load from the side. "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > Greg > Jeff Strickland wrote: >> HOOKS? >> Get rid of it. Now. >> >> Class One receiver? >> That is not adequate for recovery. >> >> >> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by >> whatever >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated >> at >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the >> next available winch capacity. >> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point >> can >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch >> is >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to >> 10,000 >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle >> several >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. >> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid >> of >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is >> better. >> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. >> The >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and >> be >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not >> drive >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging >> him, >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in >> danger >> of driving on the strap. >> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep >> should >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all >> Jeeps >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be >> considered >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the >> other end of the tow strap. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... >> > Hello. >> > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one >> > reciever if that makes any difference. >> > >> > Greg >> > > |
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06... > Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep. > > The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the > side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for > a load from the side. > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > > > Greg > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > >> HOOKS? > >> Get rid of it. Now. > >> > >> Class One receiver? > >> That is not adequate for recovery. > >> > >> > >> > >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by > >> whatever > >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated > >> at > >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > >> next available winch capacity. > >> > >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point > >> can > >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch > >> is > >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to > >> 10,000 > >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle > >> several > >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > >> > >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid > >> of > >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is > >> better. > >> > >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. > >> The > >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and > >> be > >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not > >> drive > >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging > >> him, > >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in > >> danger > >> of driving on the strap. > >> > >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep > >> should > >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all > >> Jeeps > >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be > >> considered > >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > >> other end of the tow strap. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > >> > Hello. > >> > > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> > reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > > >> > Greg > >> > > > > |
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06... > Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep. > > The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the > side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for > a load from the side. > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > > > Greg > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > >> HOOKS? > >> Get rid of it. Now. > >> > >> Class One receiver? > >> That is not adequate for recovery. > >> > >> > >> > >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by > >> whatever > >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated > >> at > >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > >> next available winch capacity. > >> > >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point > >> can > >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch > >> is > >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to > >> 10,000 > >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle > >> several > >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > >> > >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid > >> of > >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is > >> better. > >> > >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. > >> The > >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and > >> be > >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not > >> drive > >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging > >> him, > >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in > >> danger > >> of driving on the strap. > >> > >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep > >> should > >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all > >> Jeeps > >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be > >> considered > >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > >> other end of the tow strap. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > >> > Hello. > >> > > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> > reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > > >> > Greg > >> > > > > |
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06... > Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep. > > The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the > side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for > a load from the side. > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > > > Greg > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > >> HOOKS? > >> Get rid of it. Now. > >> > >> Class One receiver? > >> That is not adequate for recovery. > >> > >> > >> > >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by > >> whatever > >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated > >> at > >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > >> next available winch capacity. > >> > >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point > >> can > >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch > >> is > >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to > >> 10,000 > >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle > >> several > >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > >> > >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid > >> of > >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is > >> better. > >> > >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. > >> The > >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and > >> be > >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not > >> drive > >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging > >> him, > >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in > >> danger > >> of driving on the strap. > >> > >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep > >> should > >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all > >> Jeeps > >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be > >> considered > >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > >> other end of the tow strap. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > >> > Hello. > >> > > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> > reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > > >> > Greg > >> > > > > |
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06... > Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep. > > The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the > side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for > a load from the side. > > > > > > "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com... > > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps! > > > > Greg > > Jeff Strickland wrote: > >> HOOKS? > >> Get rid of it. Now. > >> > >> Class One receiver? > >> That is not adequate for recovery. > >> > >> > >> > >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck. > >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by > >> whatever > >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can > >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated > >> at > >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the > >> next available winch capacity. > >> > >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point > >> can > >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch > >> is > >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to > >> 10,000 > >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front > >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle > >> several > >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull. > >> > >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points > >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that > >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily > >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid > >> of > >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the > >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is > >> better. > >> > >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. > >> The > >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and > >> be > >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled > >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not > >> drive > >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the > >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging > >> him, > >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in > >> danger > >> of driving on the strap. > >> > >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep > >> should > >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all > >> Jeeps > >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be > >> considered > >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should > >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the > >> other end of the tow strap. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message > >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com... > >> > Hello. > >> > > >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out > >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a > >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep > >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one > >> > reciever if that makes any difference. > >> > > >> > Greg > >> > > > > |
Re: Towing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > tear the bumper off. It depends on the hitch and receiver. I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap. (I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching, and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell. This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on to the back of TJ's these days. I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of deep mud (with another semi) without a problem. I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times. I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a need for this, so I won't elaborate. IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP, dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your Jeep will support towing that much weight. |
Re: Towing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > tear the bumper off. It depends on the hitch and receiver. I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap. (I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching, and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell. This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on to the back of TJ's these days. I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of deep mud (with another semi) without a problem. I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times. I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a need for this, so I won't elaborate. IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP, dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your Jeep will support towing that much weight. |
Re: Towing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane > of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears > things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just > tear the bumper off. It depends on the hitch and receiver. I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap. (I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching, and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell. This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on to the back of TJ's these days. I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of deep mud (with another semi) without a problem. I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times. I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a need for this, so I won't elaborate. IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP, dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your Jeep will support towing that much weight. |
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