Towing
 

Hello.

Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
reciever if that makes any difference.

Greg

Re: Towing
 

HOOKS?
Get rid of it. Now.

Class One receiver?
That is not adequate for recovery.



Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
next available winch capacity.

Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
times the weight that I can reasonably pull.

Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.

Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
of driving on the strap.

If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
other end of the tow strap.






"jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>

Re: Towing
 

HOOKS?
Get rid of it. Now.

Class One receiver?
That is not adequate for recovery.



Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
next available winch capacity.

Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
times the weight that I can reasonably pull.

Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.

Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
of driving on the strap.

If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
other end of the tow strap.






"jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>

Re: Towing
 

HOOKS?
Get rid of it. Now.

Class One receiver?
That is not adequate for recovery.



Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
next available winch capacity.

Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
times the weight that I can reasonably pull.

Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.

Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
of driving on the strap.

If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
other end of the tow strap.






"jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>

Re: Towing
 

HOOKS?
Get rid of it. Now.

Class One receiver?
That is not adequate for recovery.



Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
next available winch capacity.

Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
times the weight that I can reasonably pull.

Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.

Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
of driving on the strap.

If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
other end of the tow strap.






"jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>

Re: Towing
 

jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>

Those are for towing and not vehicle recovery offroad. What you want for
that is a 'snatch strap'. It's more elastic and has no metal projectiles
on it.

tw

--
__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________

Re: Towing
 

jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>

Those are for towing and not vehicle recovery offroad. What you want for
that is a 'snatch strap'. It's more elastic and has no metal projectiles
on it.

tw

--
__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________

Re: Towing
 

jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>

Those are for towing and not vehicle recovery offroad. What you want for
that is a 'snatch strap'. It's more elastic and has no metal projectiles
on it.

tw

--
__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________

Re: Towing
 

jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>

Those are for towing and not vehicle recovery offroad. What you want for
that is a 'snatch strap'. It's more elastic and has no metal projectiles
on it.

tw

--
__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________

Re: Towing
 

Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!

Greg
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> HOOKS?
> Get rid of it. Now.
>
> Class One receiver?
> That is not adequate for recovery.
>
>
>
> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
> next available winch capacity.
>
> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>
> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.
>
> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
> of driving on the strap.
>
> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
> other end of the tow strap.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> > Hello.
> >
> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >
> > Greg
> >