Towing
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
Greg
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> HOOKS?
> Get rid of it. Now.
>
> Class One receiver?
> That is not adequate for recovery.
>
>
>
> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
> next available winch capacity.
>
> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>
> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.
>
> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
> of driving on the strap.
>
> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
> other end of the tow strap.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> > Hello.
> >
> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >
> > Greg
> >
Greg
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> HOOKS?
> Get rid of it. Now.
>
> Class One receiver?
> That is not adequate for recovery.
>
>
>
> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
> next available winch capacity.
>
> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>
> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.
>
> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
> of driving on the strap.
>
> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
> other end of the tow strap.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> > Hello.
> >
> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >
> > Greg
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
Greg
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> HOOKS?
> Get rid of it. Now.
>
> Class One receiver?
> That is not adequate for recovery.
>
>
>
> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
> next available winch capacity.
>
> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>
> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.
>
> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
> of driving on the strap.
>
> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
> other end of the tow strap.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> > Hello.
> >
> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >
> > Greg
> >
Greg
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> HOOKS?
> Get rid of it. Now.
>
> Class One receiver?
> That is not adequate for recovery.
>
>
>
> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
> next available winch capacity.
>
> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>
> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.
>
> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
> of driving on the strap.
>
> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
> other end of the tow strap.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> > Hello.
> >
> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >
> > Greg
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
Greg
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> HOOKS?
> Get rid of it. Now.
>
> Class One receiver?
> That is not adequate for recovery.
>
>
>
> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
> next available winch capacity.
>
> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>
> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.
>
> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
> of driving on the strap.
>
> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
> other end of the tow strap.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> > Hello.
> >
> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >
> > Greg
> >
Greg
Jeff Strickland wrote:
> HOOKS?
> Get rid of it. Now.
>
> Class One receiver?
> That is not adequate for recovery.
>
>
>
> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by whatever
> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated at
> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
> next available winch capacity.
>
> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point can
> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch is
> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to 10,000
> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle several
> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>
> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid of
> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is better.
>
> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull. The
> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and be
> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not drive
> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging him,
> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in danger
> of driving on the strap.
>
> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep should
> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all Jeeps
> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be considered
> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
> other end of the tow strap.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> > Hello.
> >
> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >
> > Greg
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
You can get by with the strap you bought, provided you cut the steel
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I
hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the
weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II
hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max.
Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a
heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out
of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket
midway over the ****** strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to
4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently
accellerates. Piece of cake.
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I
hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the
weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II
hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max.
Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a
heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out
of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket
midway over the ****** strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to
4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently
accellerates. Piece of cake.
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
You can get by with the strap you bought, provided you cut the steel
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I
hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the
weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II
hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max.
Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a
heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out
of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket
midway over the ****** strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to
4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently
accellerates. Piece of cake.
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I
hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the
weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II
hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max.
Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a
heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out
of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket
midway over the ****** strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to
4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently
accellerates. Piece of cake.
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
You can get by with the strap you bought, provided you cut the steel
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I
hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the
weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II
hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max.
Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a
heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out
of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket
midway over the ****** strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to
4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently
accellerates. Piece of cake.
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I
hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the
weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II
hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max.
Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a
heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out
of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket
midway over the ****** strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to
4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently
accellerates. Piece of cake.
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
You can get by with the strap you bought, provided you cut the steel
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I
hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the
weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II
hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max.
Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a
heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out
of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket
midway over the ****** strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to
4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently
accellerates. Piece of cake.
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
hooks off. (It has sewed ends, right?) The real problem is the Class I
hitch; it's only rated at 2,000 lbs. The minimum is normally 2X the
weight of the vehicle being pulled out; I get by OK with my OEM Class II
hitch, but it's only rated for 3,500 lbs max.
Insert the ball mount into the receiver, remove the ball and install a
heavy-duty (min. 5,000 lb.) D-shackle into the hole the ball came out
of, and use that as an anchor point. Place a large towel or blanket
midway over the ****** strap to limit travel should it snap, drop to
4L/gear 1, and pull the stuck vehicle out while the other driver gently
accellerates. Piece of cake.
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself
or someone else. Seriously!
There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period!
I would recommend you get the '****** strap' that has elastic properties
and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they
are solid for towing. Using one to ****** a vehicle 'will' break stuff.
You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
tear the bumper off.
There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without
proper tow hooks mounted to the frame.
For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting
a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from
going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to
start. 4x4 helps with this.
If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the
****** strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking
motion, so you can get going pretty good.
I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck
vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to
hold the one doing the winching in place.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
or someone else. Seriously!
There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period!
I would recommend you get the '****** strap' that has elastic properties
and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they
are solid for towing. Using one to ****** a vehicle 'will' break stuff.
You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
tear the bumper off.
There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without
proper tow hooks mounted to the frame.
For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting
a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from
going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to
start. 4x4 helps with this.
If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the
****** strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking
motion, so you can get going pretty good.
I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck
vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to
hold the one doing the winching in place.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself
or someone else. Seriously!
There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period!
I would recommend you get the '****** strap' that has elastic properties
and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they
are solid for towing. Using one to ****** a vehicle 'will' break stuff.
You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
tear the bumper off.
There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without
proper tow hooks mounted to the frame.
For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting
a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from
going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to
start. 4x4 helps with this.
If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the
****** strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking
motion, so you can get going pretty good.
I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck
vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to
hold the one doing the winching in place.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
or someone else. Seriously!
There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period!
I would recommend you get the '****** strap' that has elastic properties
and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they
are solid for towing. Using one to ****** a vehicle 'will' break stuff.
You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
tear the bumper off.
There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without
proper tow hooks mounted to the frame.
For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting
a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from
going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to
start. 4x4 helps with this.
If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the
****** strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking
motion, so you can get going pretty good.
I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck
vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to
hold the one doing the winching in place.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
You take that strap and toss it in the garbage before you kill yourself
or someone else. Seriously!
There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period!
I would recommend you get the '****** strap' that has elastic properties
and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they
are solid for towing. Using one to ****** a vehicle 'will' break stuff.
You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
tear the bumper off.
There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without
proper tow hooks mounted to the frame.
For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting
a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from
going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to
start. 4x4 helps with this.
If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the
****** strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking
motion, so you can get going pretty good.
I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck
vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to
hold the one doing the winching in place.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
or someone else. Seriously!
There is NO safe way to use a strap with a hook on it to extract period!
I would recommend you get the '****** strap' that has elastic properties
and sewn hooks. The skinny straps normally don't have the elastic, they
are solid for towing. Using one to ****** a vehicle 'will' break stuff.
You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
tear the bumper off.
There is a good reason runs like Jeep 101 refuse you entry without
proper tow hooks mounted to the frame.
For extractions, you take up the slack in the line gently while putting
a coat or even a floor mat over the line in the middle to stop it from
going ballistic if it does snap something. You then pull gently to
start. 4x4 helps with this.
If they are really in there, you start rocking them. The elastic of the
****** strap will prevent it from coming up 'hard' in this rocking
motion, so you can get going pretty good.
I still find the best is for the Jeep to stay put and winch the stuck
vehicle. Sometimes you have to hook up two or even 3 Jeeps in a row to
hold the one doing the winching in place.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
jerryg wrote:
> Hello.
>
> Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
> of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
> 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> reciever if that makes any difference.
>
> Greg
>
