Towing
01-22-2007, 11:32 AM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for
a load from the side.
"jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
>
> Greg
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>> HOOKS?
>> Get rid of it. Now.
>>
>> Class One receiver?
>> That is not adequate for recovery.
>>
>>
>>
>> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
>> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
>> whatever
>> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
>> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
>> at
>> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
>> next available winch capacity.
>>
>> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
>> can
>> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch
>> is
>> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
>> 10,000
>> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
>> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
>> several
>> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>>
>> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
>> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
>> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
>> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid
>> of
>> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
>> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
>> better.
>>
>> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull.
>> The
>> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
>> be
>> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
>> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
>> drive
>> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
>> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
>> him,
>> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
>> danger
>> of driving on the strap.
>>
>> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
>> should
>> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
>> Jeeps
>> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
>> considered
>> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
>> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
>> other end of the tow strap.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
>> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
>> > Hello.
>> >
>> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
>> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
>> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
>> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
>> > reciever if that makes any difference.
>> >
>> > Greg
>> >
>
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for
a load from the side.
"jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
>
> Greg
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>> HOOKS?
>> Get rid of it. Now.
>>
>> Class One receiver?
>> That is not adequate for recovery.
>>
>>
>>
>> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
>> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
>> whatever
>> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
>> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
>> at
>> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
>> next available winch capacity.
>>
>> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
>> can
>> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch
>> is
>> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
>> 10,000
>> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
>> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
>> several
>> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>>
>> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
>> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
>> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
>> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid
>> of
>> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
>> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
>> better.
>>
>> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull.
>> The
>> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
>> be
>> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
>> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
>> drive
>> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
>> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
>> him,
>> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
>> danger
>> of driving on the strap.
>>
>> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
>> should
>> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
>> Jeeps
>> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
>> considered
>> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
>> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
>> other end of the tow strap.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
>> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
>> > Hello.
>> >
>> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
>> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
>> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
>> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
>> > reciever if that makes any difference.
>> >
>> > Greg
>> >
>
01-22-2007, 11:32 AM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for
a load from the side.
"jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
>
> Greg
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>> HOOKS?
>> Get rid of it. Now.
>>
>> Class One receiver?
>> That is not adequate for recovery.
>>
>>
>>
>> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
>> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
>> whatever
>> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
>> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
>> at
>> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
>> next available winch capacity.
>>
>> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
>> can
>> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch
>> is
>> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
>> 10,000
>> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
>> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
>> several
>> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>>
>> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
>> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
>> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
>> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid
>> of
>> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
>> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
>> better.
>>
>> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull.
>> The
>> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
>> be
>> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
>> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
>> drive
>> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
>> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
>> him,
>> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
>> danger
>> of driving on the strap.
>>
>> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
>> should
>> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
>> Jeeps
>> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
>> considered
>> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
>> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
>> other end of the tow strap.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
>> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
>> > Hello.
>> >
>> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
>> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
>> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
>> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
>> > reciever if that makes any difference.
>> >
>> > Greg
>> >
>
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for
a load from the side.
"jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
>
> Greg
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>> HOOKS?
>> Get rid of it. Now.
>>
>> Class One receiver?
>> That is not adequate for recovery.
>>
>>
>>
>> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
>> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
>> whatever
>> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
>> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
>> at
>> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
>> next available winch capacity.
>>
>> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
>> can
>> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch
>> is
>> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
>> 10,000
>> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
>> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
>> several
>> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>>
>> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
>> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
>> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
>> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid
>> of
>> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
>> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
>> better.
>>
>> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull.
>> The
>> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
>> be
>> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
>> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
>> drive
>> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
>> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
>> him,
>> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
>> danger
>> of driving on the strap.
>>
>> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
>> should
>> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
>> Jeeps
>> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
>> considered
>> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
>> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
>> other end of the tow strap.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
>> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
>> > Hello.
>> >
>> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
>> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
>> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
>> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
>> > reciever if that makes any difference.
>> >
>> > Greg
>> >
>
01-22-2007, 11:32 AM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for
a load from the side.
"jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
>
> Greg
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>> HOOKS?
>> Get rid of it. Now.
>>
>> Class One receiver?
>> That is not adequate for recovery.
>>
>>
>>
>> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
>> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
>> whatever
>> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
>> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
>> at
>> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
>> next available winch capacity.
>>
>> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
>> can
>> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch
>> is
>> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
>> 10,000
>> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
>> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
>> several
>> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>>
>> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
>> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
>> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
>> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid
>> of
>> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
>> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
>> better.
>>
>> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull.
>> The
>> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
>> be
>> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
>> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
>> drive
>> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
>> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
>> him,
>> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
>> danger
>> of driving on the strap.
>>
>> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
>> should
>> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
>> Jeeps
>> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
>> considered
>> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
>> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
>> other end of the tow strap.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
>> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
>> > Hello.
>> >
>> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
>> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
>> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
>> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
>> > reciever if that makes any difference.
>> >
>> > Greg
>> >
>
The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less for
a load from the side.
"jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
>
> Greg
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>> HOOKS?
>> Get rid of it. Now.
>>
>> Class One receiver?
>> That is not adequate for recovery.
>>
>>
>>
>> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is stuck.
>> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
>> whatever
>> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle can
>> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
>> at
>> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to the
>> next available winch capacity.
>>
>> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
>> can
>> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1 hitch
>> is
>> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
>> 10,000
>> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the front
>> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
>> several
>> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
>>
>> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these points
>> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
>> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will easily
>> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get rid
>> of
>> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
>> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
>> better.
>>
>> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your pull.
>> The
>> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
>> be
>> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be pulled
>> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
>> drive
>> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in the
>> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
>> him,
>> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
>> danger
>> of driving on the strap.
>>
>> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
>> should
>> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
>> Jeeps
>> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
>> considered
>> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you should
>> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at the
>> other end of the tow strap.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
>> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
>> > Hello.
>> >
>> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone out
>> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with a
>> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
>> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
>> > reciever if that makes any difference.
>> >
>> > Greg
>> >
>
01-22-2007, 01:24 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle
"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06...
> Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
>
> The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
> side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less
for
> a load from the side.
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
> >
> > Greg
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >> HOOKS?
> >> Get rid of it. Now.
> >>
> >> Class One receiver?
> >> That is not adequate for recovery.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is
stuck.
> >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
> >> whatever
> >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle
can
> >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
> >> at
> >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to
the
> >> next available winch capacity.
> >>
> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
> >> can
> >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1
hitch
> >> is
> >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
> >> 10,000
> >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the
front
> >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
> >> several
> >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
> >>
> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these
points
> >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will
easily
> >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get
rid
> >> of
> >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
> >> better.
> >>
> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your
pull.
> >> The
> >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
> >> be
> >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be
pulled
> >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
> >> drive
> >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in
the
> >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
> >> him,
> >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
> >> danger
> >> of driving on the strap.
> >>
> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
> >> should
> >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
> >> Jeeps
> >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
> >> considered
> >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you
should
> >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at
the
> >> other end of the tow strap.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> >> > Hello.
> >> >
> >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone
out
> >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with
a
> >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> >> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >> >
> >> > Greg
> >> >
> >
>
Earle
"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06...
> Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
>
> The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
> side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less
for
> a load from the side.
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
> >
> > Greg
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >> HOOKS?
> >> Get rid of it. Now.
> >>
> >> Class One receiver?
> >> That is not adequate for recovery.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is
stuck.
> >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
> >> whatever
> >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle
can
> >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
> >> at
> >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to
the
> >> next available winch capacity.
> >>
> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
> >> can
> >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1
hitch
> >> is
> >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
> >> 10,000
> >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the
front
> >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
> >> several
> >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
> >>
> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these
points
> >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will
easily
> >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get
rid
> >> of
> >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
> >> better.
> >>
> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your
pull.
> >> The
> >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
> >> be
> >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be
pulled
> >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
> >> drive
> >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in
the
> >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
> >> him,
> >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
> >> danger
> >> of driving on the strap.
> >>
> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
> >> should
> >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
> >> Jeeps
> >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
> >> considered
> >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you
should
> >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at
the
> >> other end of the tow strap.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> >> > Hello.
> >> >
> >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone
out
> >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with
a
> >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> >> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >> >
> >> > Greg
> >> >
> >
>
01-22-2007, 01:24 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle
"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06...
> Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
>
> The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
> side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less
for
> a load from the side.
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
> >
> > Greg
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >> HOOKS?
> >> Get rid of it. Now.
> >>
> >> Class One receiver?
> >> That is not adequate for recovery.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is
stuck.
> >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
> >> whatever
> >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle
can
> >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
> >> at
> >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to
the
> >> next available winch capacity.
> >>
> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
> >> can
> >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1
hitch
> >> is
> >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
> >> 10,000
> >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the
front
> >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
> >> several
> >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
> >>
> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these
points
> >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will
easily
> >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get
rid
> >> of
> >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
> >> better.
> >>
> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your
pull.
> >> The
> >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
> >> be
> >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be
pulled
> >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
> >> drive
> >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in
the
> >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
> >> him,
> >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
> >> danger
> >> of driving on the strap.
> >>
> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
> >> should
> >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
> >> Jeeps
> >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
> >> considered
> >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you
should
> >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at
the
> >> other end of the tow strap.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> >> > Hello.
> >> >
> >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone
out
> >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with
a
> >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> >> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >> >
> >> > Greg
> >> >
> >
>
Earle
"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06...
> Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
>
> The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
> side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less
for
> a load from the side.
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
> >
> > Greg
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >> HOOKS?
> >> Get rid of it. Now.
> >>
> >> Class One receiver?
> >> That is not adequate for recovery.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is
stuck.
> >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
> >> whatever
> >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle
can
> >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
> >> at
> >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to
the
> >> next available winch capacity.
> >>
> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
> >> can
> >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1
hitch
> >> is
> >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
> >> 10,000
> >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the
front
> >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
> >> several
> >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
> >>
> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these
points
> >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will
easily
> >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get
rid
> >> of
> >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
> >> better.
> >>
> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your
pull.
> >> The
> >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
> >> be
> >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be
pulled
> >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
> >> drive
> >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in
the
> >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
> >> him,
> >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
> >> danger
> >> of driving on the strap.
> >>
> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
> >> should
> >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
> >> Jeeps
> >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
> >> considered
> >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you
should
> >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at
the
> >> other end of the tow strap.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> >> > Hello.
> >> >
> >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone
out
> >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with
a
> >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> >> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >> >
> >> > Greg
> >> >
> >
>
01-22-2007, 01:24 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle
"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06...
> Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
>
> The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
> side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less
for
> a load from the side.
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
> >
> > Greg
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >> HOOKS?
> >> Get rid of it. Now.
> >>
> >> Class One receiver?
> >> That is not adequate for recovery.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is
stuck.
> >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
> >> whatever
> >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle
can
> >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
> >> at
> >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to
the
> >> next available winch capacity.
> >>
> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
> >> can
> >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1
hitch
> >> is
> >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
> >> 10,000
> >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the
front
> >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
> >> several
> >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
> >>
> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these
points
> >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will
easily
> >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get
rid
> >> of
> >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
> >> better.
> >>
> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your
pull.
> >> The
> >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
> >> be
> >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be
pulled
> >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
> >> drive
> >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in
the
> >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
> >> him,
> >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
> >> danger
> >> of driving on the strap.
> >>
> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
> >> should
> >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
> >> Jeeps
> >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
> >> considered
> >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you
should
> >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at
the
> >> other end of the tow strap.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> >> > Hello.
> >> >
> >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone
out
> >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with
a
> >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> >> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >> >
> >> > Greg
> >> >
> >
>
Earle
"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06...
> Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
>
> The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
> side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less
for
> a load from the side.
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
> >
> > Greg
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >> HOOKS?
> >> Get rid of it. Now.
> >>
> >> Class One receiver?
> >> That is not adequate for recovery.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is
stuck.
> >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
> >> whatever
> >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle
can
> >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
> >> at
> >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to
the
> >> next available winch capacity.
> >>
> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
> >> can
> >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1
hitch
> >> is
> >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
> >> 10,000
> >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the
front
> >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
> >> several
> >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
> >>
> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these
points
> >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will
easily
> >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get
rid
> >> of
> >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
> >> better.
> >>
> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your
pull.
> >> The
> >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
> >> be
> >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be
pulled
> >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
> >> drive
> >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in
the
> >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
> >> him,
> >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
> >> danger
> >> of driving on the strap.
> >>
> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
> >> should
> >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
> >> Jeeps
> >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
> >> considered
> >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you
should
> >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at
the
> >> other end of the tow strap.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> >> > Hello.
> >> >
> >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone
out
> >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with
a
> >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> >> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >> >
> >> > Greg
> >> >
> >
>
01-22-2007, 01:24 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
That's why you put a Class II hitch on it, "Just in case."
Earle
"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06...
> Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
>
> The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
> side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less
for
> a load from the side.
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
> >
> > Greg
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >> HOOKS?
> >> Get rid of it. Now.
> >>
> >> Class One receiver?
> >> That is not adequate for recovery.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is
stuck.
> >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
> >> whatever
> >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle
can
> >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
> >> at
> >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to
the
> >> next available winch capacity.
> >>
> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
> >> can
> >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1
hitch
> >> is
> >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
> >> 10,000
> >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the
front
> >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
> >> several
> >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
> >>
> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these
points
> >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will
easily
> >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get
rid
> >> of
> >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
> >> better.
> >>
> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your
pull.
> >> The
> >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
> >> be
> >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be
pulled
> >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
> >> drive
> >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in
the
> >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
> >> him,
> >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
> >> danger
> >> of driving on the strap.
> >>
> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
> >> should
> >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
> >> Jeeps
> >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
> >> considered
> >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you
should
> >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at
the
> >> other end of the tow strap.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> >> > Hello.
> >> >
> >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone
out
> >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with
a
> >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> >> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >> >
> >> > Greg
> >> >
> >
>
Earle
"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uG5th.5490$U81.4178@trnddc06...
> Don't forget to get hooks for each end of your Jeep.
>
> The tow bar is designed for straight-on loads, not loads applied from the
> side. YOUR tow bar is not designed for the load of your Jeep, much less
for
> a load from the side.
>
>
>
>
>
> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:1169439138.798044.232090@38g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> > Thanks for the advice. Ditching the hooks and getting straps!
> >
> > Greg
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >> HOOKS?
> >> Get rid of it. Now.
> >>
> >> Class One receiver?
> >> That is not adequate for recovery.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Think of a vehicle weighing DOUBLE its actual weight because it is
stuck.
> >> You have to overcome the actual weight, plus the weight caused by
> >> whatever
> >> makes the vehicle stuck. It is easy to see that a 4500 pound vehicle
can
> >> take 9000 pounds to get it unstuck, this is why a winch should be rated
> >> at
> >> double the weight of the vehicle it is mounted on, then rounded up to
the
> >> next available winch capacity.
> >>
> >> Now, tow straps and anchor points can break off. A Class 1 anchor point
> >> can
> >> not accomodate 9000 pounds. Indeed, I seem to recall that a Class 1
hitch
> >> is
> >> rated to about 2500 pounds, maybe less. You need tow hooks rated to
> >> 10,000
> >> pounds that are bolted directly to the frame -- I use hooks on the
front
> >> bolted to the frame, and a pintle hitch on the rear that can handle
> >> several
> >> times the weight that I can reasonably pull.
> >>
> >> Back to the straps, and the crappy anchor points. If one of these
points
> >> should break, or the hook itself break, under the kinds of loading that
> >> cause a strap to break, the hook becomes a lethal weapon that will
easily
> >> slice through an onlooker, or be launched through the windshield. Get
rid
> >> of
> >> your tow strap that has hooks, and get one that has loops sewn into the
> >> ends, and has at least a 20,000 pound capacity. Higher capacity is
> >> better.
> >>
> >> Attach the strap, slowly drive out to the end, and then begin your
pull.
> >> The
> >> driver of the stuck truck should be ready, with his engine running, and
> >> be
> >> able to give a LITTLE gas to assist in his recovery. He should be
pulled
> >> until he can drive himself, but an observer must make sure he does not
> >> drive
> >> over the strap. You should stop as soon as practical, but the guyu in
the
> >> recovered vehicle should assist to the point that you are not dragging
> >> him,
> >> but not to the point where he is creating slack in the strap and in
> >> danger
> >> of driving on the strap.
> >>
> >> If you haven't enough weight to pull on your own, then a second Jeep
> >> should
> >> be strapped to yours so you both pull the guy that is stuck. Since all
> >> Jeeps
> >> weigh pretty much the same, and the one that is stuck should be
> >> considered
> >> to weight twice as much as when not stuck, logic dictates that you
should
> >> always wheel in a group of three Jeeps. One is stuck, and two are at
the
> >> other end of the tow strap.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "jerryg" <Gregginn7@msn.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1169421977.854423.152960@51g2000cwl.googlegro ups.com...
> >> > Hello.
> >> >
> >> > Can someone tell me how to properly use a tow strap to help someone
out
> >> > of a ditch. I bought a strap that has hooks on either end. Nylon with
a
> >> > 10,000 lb rating. Need to know where to attach it to my vehicle (Jeep
> >> > YJ) and another vehicle. Thanks in advance. BTW I have a class one
> >> > reciever if that makes any difference.
> >> >
> >> > Greg
> >> >
> >
>
01-22-2007, 09:01 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
> of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
> things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
> tear the bumper off.
It depends on the hitch and receiver.
I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many
recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a
min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap.
(I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er
that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching,
and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell.
This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is
mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed
rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on
to the back of TJ's these days.
I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD
recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of
deep mud (with another semi) without a problem.
I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should
something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've
also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary
object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the
recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times.
I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles
weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a
need for this, so I won't elaborate.
IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP,
dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your
Jeep will support towing that much weight.
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
> of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
> things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
> tear the bumper off.
It depends on the hitch and receiver.
I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many
recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a
min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap.
(I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er
that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching,
and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell.
This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is
mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed
rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on
to the back of TJ's these days.
I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD
recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of
deep mud (with another semi) without a problem.
I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should
something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've
also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary
object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the
recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times.
I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles
weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a
need for this, so I won't elaborate.
IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP,
dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your
Jeep will support towing that much weight.
01-22-2007, 09:01 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
> of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
> things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
> tear the bumper off.
It depends on the hitch and receiver.
I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many
recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a
min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap.
(I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er
that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching,
and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell.
This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is
mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed
rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on
to the back of TJ's these days.
I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD
recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of
deep mud (with another semi) without a problem.
I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should
something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've
also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary
object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the
recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times.
I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles
weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a
need for this, so I won't elaborate.
IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP,
dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your
Jeep will support towing that much weight.
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
> of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
> things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
> tear the bumper off.
It depends on the hitch and receiver.
I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many
recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a
min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap.
(I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er
that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching,
and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell.
This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is
mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed
rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on
to the back of TJ's these days.
I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD
recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of
deep mud (with another semi) without a problem.
I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should
something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've
also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary
object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the
recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times.
I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles
weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a
need for this, so I won't elaborate.
IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP,
dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your
Jeep will support towing that much weight.
01-22-2007, 09:01 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Towing
Mike Romain wrote:
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
> of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
> things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
> tear the bumper off.
It depends on the hitch and receiver.
I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many
recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a
min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap.
(I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er
that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching,
and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell.
This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is
mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed
rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on
to the back of TJ's these days.
I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD
recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of
deep mud (with another semi) without a problem.
I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should
something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've
also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary
object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the
recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times.
I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles
weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a
need for this, so I won't elaborate.
IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP,
dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your
Jeep will support towing that much weight.
> You cannot use a trailer hitch for extractions. It sits below the plane
> of the frame so when the impact hits it, it just bends up and tears
> things. If it is a Class 1 hooked to the bumper mounts, it will just
> tear the bumper off.
It depends on the hitch and receiver.
I've used a 5k/lb. D-shackle on my Class II OEM receiver for many
recoveries, and it works flawlessly. I don't see a problem with using a
min. Class II hitch and a properly-rated D-shackle and a decent strap.
(I do not prefer the 'rubber band' variety; I use a solid-webbed 3"er
that is rated at 35,000#. I've used the 'stretch' method of snatching,
and didn't care for it: if something breaks off/snaps, run like hell.
This is, however, an OEM receiver: it bolts directly to the frame and is
mounted directly behind and in-line so that the force is directed
rearward, not up and back like (ahem) some of the junk I see bolted on
to the back of TJ's these days.
I also carry a 30-ft, 5,000 lb. chain with hooks on each end for HD
recovery. How good is it? I use it to pull fully-loaded semi's out of
deep mud (with another semi) without a problem.
I also use a heavy furniture blanket midway to prevent snapback should
something break; I've broken a few chains and this works well. I've
also been known to run a 2nd chain from stuck vehicle to a stationary
object such as a tree, just in case it pulls free and lurches into the
recovery vehicle. This has saved my bacon many times.
I also use doubling/tripling methods with chain recoveries on vehicles
weighing more than 100,000 lbs. I doubt anyone here will ever find a
need for this, so I won't elaborate.
IMO, Class I hitches are unacceptable for recovery, period. To the OP,
dump the Class I altogether and get something heavier, assuming your
Jeep will support towing that much weight.