L.W. \(Bill\) Hughes III

This from the biggest spammer of them all! The jealous, really jealous,
I can't believe how jealous this little draft dodging coward schizophrenic
psychopath liar hiding in Vancouver via S0106000ea6ba70e7.vn.shawcable.net
24.86.24.251 intrepidator@shaw.ca who's only way to get attention is to make
a fool of its self using foul language, like it did back in elementary
school yard. But, too afraid to use it's name and address, and take on
responsibility like a grown up. With an obsession with perverts and goats,
where it writes via remailers, @news.alt.net, and cross posts to other
perverts to no one's surprise. With extreme jealous ranting over my
documents, possessions, successes, manliness and fine, Southern California
surfing body, beard, and loving Christian family. Committing forgery over
many of my posts, proving I'm a responsible American man. You remind me of a
little rat dog, like a Mexican Chiwawa with its senseless barking, me too,
me too. You're even more senile than I first thought. And the poor thing,
you're too girlie to take responsibility for yourself again, by signing your
statement like a man.
That really thinks the group's members are so stupid not to know it's
the same coward, posting over and over again using a schizophrenic
psychopath forged up names?
You're not worth any more time when a cut and paste this same
paragraphs it fits so well!
But, now worth a forwarding to: internet.help@shaw.ca,
security@shaw.ca, abuse@shaw.ca, internet.abuse@sjrb.ca, abuse@aioe.org,
admin@***.net for forgery.
Who said it also likes baby monkeys sucking their -----, like his buddy
posted on an auto picture group at:
news:0u7g43dkje4pdkqi07hl66s8kpifo564k1@4ax.com
I thought this traitor's attacks were just over personal disagreements,
but in reality these attacks stemming from my love of God and America on
Independents Week, I realized you are actually attacking my country, and
that's what you've been doing all along is declaring your hatred for the
United States of America, with each declaration of my signature, but just
too cowardly and stupid to be a ---------. It's America, love it, or leave
it, so keep the f*ck out!
Or let me know when you cross my American border, so I may arrest you!
YOU ARE A TRAITOR and lost all rights to my American border, and
someday I'll have you in jail where you belong! Any time, I'll fly and meant
with other patriots guarding our borders against vermin like you.
Forwarded to: alt.binaries.pictures.autos,
alt.binaries.automobile.pictures groups so they may to see what an a**hole
you, aka SW really is!!!!!
Why don't you call the San Diego Sheriffs Department at 858-974-2020
YOU NEED HELP!
The moral majority say you are not only *******, but cowards
You wouldn't know about business as you have never succeeded and
anything.
Tell me when you are about to cross my American border and I'll fly up
and arrange at meeting with the U.S. Border patrol and Minutemen for your
arrest, after you give me your name, address, date, and meeting place.
I would appreciate the name and address of these trolls, Square Wheel:
S0106000ea6ba70e7.vn.shawcable.net 24.86.24.251 intrepidator@shaw.ca and
24bit:
12.205.158.32 AT&T WorldNet Services ATT Mediacom Communications Corp. I
will keep your name in confidence, kindly email -------------------- or
LW------@------.net
Sincerely,
Llewellyn W. (Bill) ------ III

--
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/


"Sam Simian" <neo-anderthal@hollywood&vine37_jungle.net> wrote in message
news:5Y3Ai.93286$fJ5.72686@pd7urf1no...
>
> And real men don't.
>
> And you do, constantly.
>
> Running from answers, running from truth, running off at the mouth,
> running in ever-smaller circles and whatever that is that's running down
> your leg -- again.
>
> Give up, Cooyon.
>
> You ain't ever gonna anything, just like you never were anything.
>
>
> In your eye.
>
> Dead on.
>
> A real Billseye, so to speak.
>
>
>
>
>



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Spdloader

>
> No argument here. Anything that gives a bottom line of a caster problem
> needs to be looked at. I only gave the adjustment as the problem because
> that's what steering return usually turns out to be.

Agreed

>
> I also suggested that the proper caster is negative when the imaginary
> line through the centers of the ball joints and the spindle leans toward
> the rear. I am not a front end guy, so I might be really talking about
> positive caster.

When the upper leans toward the rear of the car it is positive.

>
> In any case, the imaginary line should lean to the rear of the vehicle for
> proper steering response to and from center.

Correct

>
> The ball joints could be worn, but in all of my years owning literally
> dozens of cars, I replaced ball joints on one of them, and it did not fix
> the problem I was trying to fix. Granted, offroading takes a toll on ball
> joints, but offroading also takes a toll on lots of stuff, and for
> steering from center, I'll still go with the Caster Angle.

Good points.
I'm still guessing ball joints in this case.

Spdloader

Spdloader

>
> No argument here. Anything that gives a bottom line of a caster problem
> needs to be looked at. I only gave the adjustment as the problem because
> that's what steering return usually turns out to be.

Agreed

>
> I also suggested that the proper caster is negative when the imaginary
> line through the centers of the ball joints and the spindle leans toward
> the rear. I am not a front end guy, so I might be really talking about
> positive caster.

When the upper leans toward the rear of the car it is positive.

>
> In any case, the imaginary line should lean to the rear of the vehicle for
> proper steering response to and from center.

Correct

>
> The ball joints could be worn, but in all of my years owning literally
> dozens of cars, I replaced ball joints on one of them, and it did not fix
> the problem I was trying to fix. Granted, offroading takes a toll on ball
> joints, but offroading also takes a toll on lots of stuff, and for
> steering from center, I'll still go with the Caster Angle.

Good points.
I'm still guessing ball joints in this case.

Spdloader

Spdloader

>
> No argument here. Anything that gives a bottom line of a caster problem
> needs to be looked at. I only gave the adjustment as the problem because
> that's what steering return usually turns out to be.

Agreed

>
> I also suggested that the proper caster is negative when the imaginary
> line through the centers of the ball joints and the spindle leans toward
> the rear. I am not a front end guy, so I might be really talking about
> positive caster.

When the upper leans toward the rear of the car it is positive.

>
> In any case, the imaginary line should lean to the rear of the vehicle for
> proper steering response to and from center.

Correct

>
> The ball joints could be worn, but in all of my years owning literally
> dozens of cars, I replaced ball joints on one of them, and it did not fix
> the problem I was trying to fix. Granted, offroading takes a toll on ball
> joints, but offroading also takes a toll on lots of stuff, and for
> steering from center, I'll still go with the Caster Angle.

Good points.
I'm still guessing ball joints in this case.

Spdloader

Spdloader

>
> No argument here. Anything that gives a bottom line of a caster problem
> needs to be looked at. I only gave the adjustment as the problem because
> that's what steering return usually turns out to be.

Agreed

>
> I also suggested that the proper caster is negative when the imaginary
> line through the centers of the ball joints and the spindle leans toward
> the rear. I am not a front end guy, so I might be really talking about
> positive caster.

When the upper leans toward the rear of the car it is positive.

>
> In any case, the imaginary line should lean to the rear of the vehicle for
> proper steering response to and from center.

Correct

>
> The ball joints could be worn, but in all of my years owning literally
> dozens of cars, I replaced ball joints on one of them, and it did not fix
> the problem I was trying to fix. Granted, offroading takes a toll on ball
> joints, but offroading also takes a toll on lots of stuff, and for
> steering from center, I'll still go with the Caster Angle.

Good points.
I'm still guessing ball joints in this case.

Spdloader

Spdloader

"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188085038.011117.179400@w3g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
> On Aug 25, 7:35 pm, 97tjMike <MichaelJun...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Aug 25, 12:12 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > I had a grabbing and not returning issue on my CJ7 a bit ago. I
>> > checked
>> > the steering shock first and found out it wasn't a shock, only a rod in
>> > an empty tube so that wasn't the cause.
>>
>> > I then found a lower ball joint bad during a grease job when I noticed
>> > the torn boot. Replaced that and all is well again.
>>
>> > You can sometimes pick off a bad ball joint by looking at the tires or
>> > using a level even. If one tire seems to sit out at the top or bottom
>> > a
>> > bit more than the other side, suspect a bad ball joint. You need a
>> > 'big' pry bar to get movement in them with the solid axle setup.
>>
>> > Sometimes if you are a big person, you can grab the top of the tire and
>> > rock it in and out hard enough to get the Jeep just a bouncing, you
>> > might feel a click or thunk or shift as the joint flexes.
>>
>> > On a TJ, you also might want to check the track bar bushings. If worn,
>> > they can cause it to 'hang' before centering too.
>>
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> > 97tjMike wrote:
>> > > I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
>> > > while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
>> > > steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn.
>> > > It
>> > > attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
>> > > straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
>> > > center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
>> > > something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking
>> > > the
>> > > U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
>> > > due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
>> > > enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
>> > > alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
>> > > part. Here's what I know:
>>
>> > > Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
>> > > replacement)
>> > > Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
>> > > New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
>> > > anyways)
>> > > Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few
>> > > months
>> > > ago.
>>
>> > > I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
>> > > inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
>> > > adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>>
>> Hmm, I think I possibally may have found the problem. I do remember
>> when I last lubed the chassis, the lower ball joint on the drives side
>> had a rip in the boot. I wonder if this is it.
>
> My only concern is that I had it inspected last month by the dealer,
> and wouldn't a ball joint be grounds for failure in NY?
>

Yes, but, the measure of ball joints is in the movement of the joint. It
also makes a difference if it is a loaded or unloaded ball joint on how it
is checked. Finally, the strength of a man isn't always enough force to make
the failure apparent, as opposed to the weight of the vehicle and force of
driving on the joint.
Failed ball joints can be full of rust and dirt if the boot is torn, and
therefore show no movement, but still stick. No other way to gauge without a
crystal ball. Tearing of the boot is enough to suggest replacement.

It is hard to diagnose, but the symptoms usually speak for themselves.
Spdloader

Spdloader

"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188085038.011117.179400@w3g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
> On Aug 25, 7:35 pm, 97tjMike <MichaelJun...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Aug 25, 12:12 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > I had a grabbing and not returning issue on my CJ7 a bit ago. I
>> > checked
>> > the steering shock first and found out it wasn't a shock, only a rod in
>> > an empty tube so that wasn't the cause.
>>
>> > I then found a lower ball joint bad during a grease job when I noticed
>> > the torn boot. Replaced that and all is well again.
>>
>> > You can sometimes pick off a bad ball joint by looking at the tires or
>> > using a level even. If one tire seems to sit out at the top or bottom
>> > a
>> > bit more than the other side, suspect a bad ball joint. You need a
>> > 'big' pry bar to get movement in them with the solid axle setup.
>>
>> > Sometimes if you are a big person, you can grab the top of the tire and
>> > rock it in and out hard enough to get the Jeep just a bouncing, you
>> > might feel a click or thunk or shift as the joint flexes.
>>
>> > On a TJ, you also might want to check the track bar bushings. If worn,
>> > they can cause it to 'hang' before centering too.
>>
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> > 97tjMike wrote:
>> > > I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
>> > > while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
>> > > steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn.
>> > > It
>> > > attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
>> > > straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
>> > > center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
>> > > something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking
>> > > the
>> > > U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
>> > > due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
>> > > enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
>> > > alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
>> > > part. Here's what I know:
>>
>> > > Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
>> > > replacement)
>> > > Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
>> > > New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
>> > > anyways)
>> > > Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few
>> > > months
>> > > ago.
>>
>> > > I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
>> > > inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
>> > > adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>>
>> Hmm, I think I possibally may have found the problem. I do remember
>> when I last lubed the chassis, the lower ball joint on the drives side
>> had a rip in the boot. I wonder if this is it.
>
> My only concern is that I had it inspected last month by the dealer,
> and wouldn't a ball joint be grounds for failure in NY?
>

Yes, but, the measure of ball joints is in the movement of the joint. It
also makes a difference if it is a loaded or unloaded ball joint on how it
is checked. Finally, the strength of a man isn't always enough force to make
the failure apparent, as opposed to the weight of the vehicle and force of
driving on the joint.
Failed ball joints can be full of rust and dirt if the boot is torn, and
therefore show no movement, but still stick. No other way to gauge without a
crystal ball. Tearing of the boot is enough to suggest replacement.

It is hard to diagnose, but the symptoms usually speak for themselves.
Spdloader

Spdloader

"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188085038.011117.179400@w3g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
> On Aug 25, 7:35 pm, 97tjMike <MichaelJun...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Aug 25, 12:12 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > I had a grabbing and not returning issue on my CJ7 a bit ago. I
>> > checked
>> > the steering shock first and found out it wasn't a shock, only a rod in
>> > an empty tube so that wasn't the cause.
>>
>> > I then found a lower ball joint bad during a grease job when I noticed
>> > the torn boot. Replaced that and all is well again.
>>
>> > You can sometimes pick off a bad ball joint by looking at the tires or
>> > using a level even. If one tire seems to sit out at the top or bottom
>> > a
>> > bit more than the other side, suspect a bad ball joint. You need a
>> > 'big' pry bar to get movement in them with the solid axle setup.
>>
>> > Sometimes if you are a big person, you can grab the top of the tire and
>> > rock it in and out hard enough to get the Jeep just a bouncing, you
>> > might feel a click or thunk or shift as the joint flexes.
>>
>> > On a TJ, you also might want to check the track bar bushings. If worn,
>> > they can cause it to 'hang' before centering too.
>>
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> > 97tjMike wrote:
>> > > I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
>> > > while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
>> > > steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn.
>> > > It
>> > > attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
>> > > straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
>> > > center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
>> > > something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking
>> > > the
>> > > U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
>> > > due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
>> > > enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
>> > > alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
>> > > part. Here's what I know:
>>
>> > > Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
>> > > replacement)
>> > > Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
>> > > New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
>> > > anyways)
>> > > Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few
>> > > months
>> > > ago.
>>
>> > > I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
>> > > inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
>> > > adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>>
>> Hmm, I think I possibally may have found the problem. I do remember
>> when I last lubed the chassis, the lower ball joint on the drives side
>> had a rip in the boot. I wonder if this is it.
>
> My only concern is that I had it inspected last month by the dealer,
> and wouldn't a ball joint be grounds for failure in NY?
>

Yes, but, the measure of ball joints is in the movement of the joint. It
also makes a difference if it is a loaded or unloaded ball joint on how it
is checked. Finally, the strength of a man isn't always enough force to make
the failure apparent, as opposed to the weight of the vehicle and force of
driving on the joint.
Failed ball joints can be full of rust and dirt if the boot is torn, and
therefore show no movement, but still stick. No other way to gauge without a
crystal ball. Tearing of the boot is enough to suggest replacement.

It is hard to diagnose, but the symptoms usually speak for themselves.
Spdloader

Spdloader

"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188085038.011117.179400@w3g2000hsg.googlegro ups.com...
> On Aug 25, 7:35 pm, 97tjMike <MichaelJun...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Aug 25, 12:12 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > I had a grabbing and not returning issue on my CJ7 a bit ago. I
>> > checked
>> > the steering shock first and found out it wasn't a shock, only a rod in
>> > an empty tube so that wasn't the cause.
>>
>> > I then found a lower ball joint bad during a grease job when I noticed
>> > the torn boot. Replaced that and all is well again.
>>
>> > You can sometimes pick off a bad ball joint by looking at the tires or
>> > using a level even. If one tire seems to sit out at the top or bottom
>> > a
>> > bit more than the other side, suspect a bad ball joint. You need a
>> > 'big' pry bar to get movement in them with the solid axle setup.
>>
>> > Sometimes if you are a big person, you can grab the top of the tire and
>> > rock it in and out hard enough to get the Jeep just a bouncing, you
>> > might feel a click or thunk or shift as the joint flexes.
>>
>> > On a TJ, you also might want to check the track bar bushings. If worn,
>> > they can cause it to 'hang' before centering too.
>>
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> > 97tjMike wrote:
>> > > I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
>> > > while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
>> > > steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn.
>> > > It
>> > > attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
>> > > straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
>> > > center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
>> > > something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking
>> > > the
>> > > U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
>> > > due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
>> > > enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
>> > > alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
>> > > part. Here's what I know:
>>
>> > > Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
>> > > replacement)
>> > > Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
>> > > New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
>> > > anyways)
>> > > Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few
>> > > months
>> > > ago.
>>
>> > > I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
>> > > inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
>> > > adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>>
>> Hmm, I think I possibally may have found the problem. I do remember
>> when I last lubed the chassis, the lower ball joint on the drives side
>> had a rip in the boot. I wonder if this is it.
>
> My only concern is that I had it inspected last month by the dealer,
> and wouldn't a ball joint be grounds for failure in NY?
>

Yes, but, the measure of ball joints is in the movement of the joint. It
also makes a difference if it is a loaded or unloaded ball joint on how it
is checked. Finally, the strength of a man isn't always enough force to make
the failure apparent, as opposed to the weight of the vehicle and force of
driving on the joint.
Failed ball joints can be full of rust and dirt if the boot is torn, and
therefore show no movement, but still stick. No other way to gauge without a
crystal ball. Tearing of the boot is enough to suggest replacement.

It is hard to diagnose, but the symptoms usually speak for themselves.
Spdloader

Mike Romain

97tjMike wrote:
> On Aug 25, 7:35 pm, 97tjMike <MichaelJun...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> On Aug 25, 12:12 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> I had a grabbing and not returning issue on my CJ7 a bit ago. I checked
>>> the steering shock first and found out it wasn't a shock, only a rod in
>>> an empty tube so that wasn't the cause.
>>> I then found a lower ball joint bad during a grease job when I noticed
>>> the torn boot. Replaced that and all is well again.
>>> You can sometimes pick off a bad ball joint by looking at the tires or
>>> using a level even. If one tire seems to sit out at the top or bottom a
>>> bit more than the other side, suspect a bad ball joint. You need a
>>> 'big' pry bar to get movement in them with the solid axle setup.
>>> Sometimes if you are a big person, you can grab the top of the tire and
>>> rock it in and out hard enough to get the Jeep just a bouncing, you
>>> might feel a click or thunk or shift as the joint flexes.
>>> On a TJ, you also might want to check the track bar bushings. If worn,
>>> they can cause it to 'hang' before centering too.
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>> 97tjMike wrote:
>>>> I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
>>>> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
>>>> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
>>>> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
>>>> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
>>>> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
>>>> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
>>>> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
>>>> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
>>>> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
>>>> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
>>>> part. Here's what I know:
>>>> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
>>>> replacement)
>>>> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
>>>> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
>>>> anyways)
>>>> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
>>>> ago.
>>>> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
>>>> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
>>>> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>> Hmm, I think I possibally may have found the problem. I do remember
>> when I last lubed the chassis, the lower ball joint on the drives side
>> had a rip in the boot. I wonder if this is it.
>
> My only concern is that I had it inspected last month by the dealer,
> and wouldn't a ball joint be grounds for failure in NY?
>

Well, they don't get the name $tealership for nothing....

They 'are' hard to spot though....

If the boot is torn, suspect joint movement as the cause.

Mike