I wasn't very clear earlier.

When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle settles
into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to be
straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed that
the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of the
very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers go
straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.

When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn back
to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I like
is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel nearly full
lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go forward, and
should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it needs that much.
A U-turn should be self-centering too.

I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and you
are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end closer
to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well have them
physically make the change to the max setting.

If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
are not at the preferred setting.

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:Ji1Ai.159$hV.157@trnddc02...
>I wasn't very clear earlier.
>
> When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle
> settles into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to
> be straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed
> that the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of
> the very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers
> go straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.
>
> When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
> pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
> notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn
> back to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
> unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
> where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
> wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I
> like is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel
> nearly full lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go
> forward, and should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it
> needs that much. A U-turn should be self-centering too.
>
> I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
> adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and
> you are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end
> closer to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well
> have them physically make the change to the max setting.
>
> If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
> want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
> are not at the preferred setting.
>

For the sake of discussion, Jeff, why would his caster suddenly be off?
Would a 2" spring lift be substantial enough to cause it?
Obviously, it would make the upper ball joint move slightly forward, but
would it be enough to cause his problem?
.....and did the problem start immediately after installing the spring lift?
On the other hand,......
Dry, worn ball joints won't allow the spindles to auto-return, they tend to
stick.

Not for arguments sake, for discussions sake.

Spdloader

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:Ji1Ai.159$hV.157@trnddc02...
>I wasn't very clear earlier.
>
> When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle
> settles into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to
> be straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed
> that the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of
> the very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers
> go straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.
>
> When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
> pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
> notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn
> back to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
> unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
> where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
> wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I
> like is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel
> nearly full lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go
> forward, and should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it
> needs that much. A U-turn should be self-centering too.
>
> I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
> adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and
> you are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end
> closer to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well
> have them physically make the change to the max setting.
>
> If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
> want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
> are not at the preferred setting.
>

For the sake of discussion, Jeff, why would his caster suddenly be off?
Would a 2" spring lift be substantial enough to cause it?
Obviously, it would make the upper ball joint move slightly forward, but
would it be enough to cause his problem?
.....and did the problem start immediately after installing the spring lift?
On the other hand,......
Dry, worn ball joints won't allow the spindles to auto-return, they tend to
stick.

Not for arguments sake, for discussions sake.

Spdloader

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:Ji1Ai.159$hV.157@trnddc02...
>I wasn't very clear earlier.
>
> When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle
> settles into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to
> be straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed
> that the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of
> the very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers
> go straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.
>
> When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
> pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
> notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn
> back to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
> unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
> where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
> wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I
> like is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel
> nearly full lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go
> forward, and should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it
> needs that much. A U-turn should be self-centering too.
>
> I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
> adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and
> you are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end
> closer to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well
> have them physically make the change to the max setting.
>
> If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
> want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
> are not at the preferred setting.
>

For the sake of discussion, Jeff, why would his caster suddenly be off?
Would a 2" spring lift be substantial enough to cause it?
Obviously, it would make the upper ball joint move slightly forward, but
would it be enough to cause his problem?
.....and did the problem start immediately after installing the spring lift?
On the other hand,......
Dry, worn ball joints won't allow the spindles to auto-return, they tend to
stick.

Not for arguments sake, for discussions sake.

Spdloader

 

"Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:Ji1Ai.159$hV.157@trnddc02...
>I wasn't very clear earlier.
>
> When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle
> settles into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to
> be straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed
> that the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of
> the very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers
> go straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.
>
> When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
> pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
> notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn
> back to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
> unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
> where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
> wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I
> like is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel
> nearly full lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go
> forward, and should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it
> needs that much. A U-turn should be self-centering too.
>
> I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
> adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and
> you are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end
> closer to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well
> have them physically make the change to the max setting.
>
> If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
> want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
> are not at the preferred setting.
>

For the sake of discussion, Jeff, why would his caster suddenly be off?
Would a 2" spring lift be substantial enough to cause it?
Obviously, it would make the upper ball joint move slightly forward, but
would it be enough to cause his problem?
.....and did the problem start immediately after installing the spring lift?
On the other hand,......
Dry, worn ball joints won't allow the spindles to auto-return, they tend to
stick.

Not for arguments sake, for discussions sake.

Spdloader

 

Real jeeps run seven degrees castor, corrected by:
http://www.----------.com/temp/casterAngle.mpg or you may buy offset
balljoints: http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/23500.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
> I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

Real jeeps run seven degrees castor, corrected by:
http://www.----------.com/temp/casterAngle.mpg or you may buy offset
balljoints: http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/23500.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
> I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

Real jeeps run seven degrees castor, corrected by:
http://www.----------.com/temp/casterAngle.mpg or you may buy offset
balljoints: http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/23500.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
> I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

Real jeeps run seven degrees castor, corrected by:
http://www.----------.com/temp/casterAngle.mpg or you may buy offset
balljoints: http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/23500.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
> I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

 

On Aug 25, 12:12 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> I had a grabbing and not returning issue on my CJ7 a bit ago. I checked
> the steering shock first and found out it wasn't a shock, only a rod in
> an empty tube so that wasn't the cause.
>
> I then found a lower ball joint bad during a grease job when I noticed
> the torn boot. Replaced that and all is well again.
>
> You can sometimes pick off a bad ball joint by looking at the tires or
> using a level even. If one tire seems to sit out at the top or bottom a
> bit more than the other side, suspect a bad ball joint. You need a
> 'big' pry bar to get movement in them with the solid axle setup.
>
> Sometimes if you are a big person, you can grab the top of the tire and
> rock it in and out hard enough to get the Jeep just a bouncing, you
> might feel a click or thunk or shift as the joint flexes.
>
> On a TJ, you also might want to check the track bar bushings. If worn,
> they can cause it to 'hang' before centering too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> 97tjMike wrote:
> > I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> > while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> > steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> > attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> > straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> > center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> > something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> > U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> > due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> > enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> > alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> > part. Here's what I know:
>
> > Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> > replacement)
> > Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> > New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> > anyways)
> > Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> > ago.
>
> > I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> > inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> > adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.

Hmm, I think I possibally may have found the problem. I do remember
when I last lubed the chassis, the lower ball joint on the drives side
had a rip in the boot. I wonder if this is it.