Ο "Spdloader" <askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> έγραψε στο μήνυμα
news:46d0b0e9$0$4037$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:Ji1Ai.159$hV.157@trnddc02...
>>I wasn't very clear earlier.
>>
>> When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle
>> settles into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires
>> to be straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably
>> noticed that the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is
>> because of the very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a
>> chopper. Choppers go straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make
>> them turn.
>>
>> When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
>> pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
>> notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn
>> back to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is
>> not unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of
>> center where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop
>> range, the wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself.
>> The test I like is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning
>> the wheel nearly full lock -- the wheel should move towards the center
>> when you go forward, and should require little more than a flick of the
>> wrist if it needs that much. A U-turn should be self-centering too.
>>
>> I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
>> adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and
>> you are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end
>> closer to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well
>> have them physically make the change to the max setting.
>>
>> If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
>> want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
>> are not at the preferred setting.
>>
>
> For the sake of discussion, Jeff, why would his caster suddenly be off?
> Would a 2" spring lift be substantial enough to cause it?
> Obviously, it would make the upper ball joint move slightly forward, but
> would it be enough to cause his problem?
> ....and did the problem start immediately after installing the spring
> lift?
> On the other hand,......
> Dry, worn ball joints won't allow the spindles to auto-return, they tend
> to stick.
>
> Not for arguments sake, for discussions sake.
>
> Spdloader

Whith a 2" lift the caster decreases from 7 to 5 degrees.
Thats because the upper arm joint on the axle moves slightly forward when
the axle drops, and the lower arm joint on the axle moves backwards.

5 degrees of caster is outside the 6-8 degrees range given by the
manufacturer. But still not enough alone to prevent self centering.
Another problem such as the balljoint failure must co-exist, that together
with the reduced self-centering force has become apparent.

Bill Spiliotopoulos,

'96 XJ,
'06 TJ.

 

Ο "Spdloader" <askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> έγραψε στο μήνυμα
news:46d0b0e9$0$4037$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:Ji1Ai.159$hV.157@trnddc02...
>>I wasn't very clear earlier.
>>
>> When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle
>> settles into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires
>> to be straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably
>> noticed that the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is
>> because of the very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a
>> chopper. Choppers go straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make
>> them turn.
>>
>> When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
>> pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
>> notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn
>> back to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is
>> not unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of
>> center where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop
>> range, the wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself.
>> The test I like is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning
>> the wheel nearly full lock -- the wheel should move towards the center
>> when you go forward, and should require little more than a flick of the
>> wrist if it needs that much. A U-turn should be self-centering too.
>>
>> I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
>> adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and
>> you are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end
>> closer to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well
>> have them physically make the change to the max setting.
>>
>> If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
>> want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
>> are not at the preferred setting.
>>
>
> For the sake of discussion, Jeff, why would his caster suddenly be off?
> Would a 2" spring lift be substantial enough to cause it?
> Obviously, it would make the upper ball joint move slightly forward, but
> would it be enough to cause his problem?
> ....and did the problem start immediately after installing the spring
> lift?
> On the other hand,......
> Dry, worn ball joints won't allow the spindles to auto-return, they tend
> to stick.
>
> Not for arguments sake, for discussions sake.
>
> Spdloader

Whith a 2" lift the caster decreases from 7 to 5 degrees.
Thats because the upper arm joint on the axle moves slightly forward when
the axle drops, and the lower arm joint on the axle moves backwards.

5 degrees of caster is outside the 6-8 degrees range given by the
manufacturer. But still not enough alone to prevent self centering.
Another problem such as the balljoint failure must co-exist, that together
with the reduced self-centering force has become apparent.

Bill Spiliotopoulos,

'96 XJ,
'06 TJ.

 

Ο "Spdloader" <askforit@nospam.triad.rr.com> έγραψε στο μήνυμα
news:46d0b0e9$0$4037$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>
> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:Ji1Ai.159$hV.157@trnddc02...
>>I wasn't very clear earlier.
>>
>> When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle
>> settles into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires
>> to be straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably
>> noticed that the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is
>> because of the very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a
>> chopper. Choppers go straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make
>> them turn.
>>
>> When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
>> pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
>> notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn
>> back to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is
>> not unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of
>> center where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop
>> range, the wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself.
>> The test I like is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning
>> the wheel nearly full lock -- the wheel should move towards the center
>> when you go forward, and should require little more than a flick of the
>> wrist if it needs that much. A U-turn should be self-centering too.
>>
>> I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
>> adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and
>> you are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end
>> closer to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well
>> have them physically make the change to the max setting.
>>
>> If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
>> want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
>> are not at the preferred setting.
>>
>
> For the sake of discussion, Jeff, why would his caster suddenly be off?
> Would a 2" spring lift be substantial enough to cause it?
> Obviously, it would make the upper ball joint move slightly forward, but
> would it be enough to cause his problem?
> ....and did the problem start immediately after installing the spring
> lift?
> On the other hand,......
> Dry, worn ball joints won't allow the spindles to auto-return, they tend
> to stick.
>
> Not for arguments sake, for discussions sake.
>
> Spdloader

Whith a 2" lift the caster decreases from 7 to 5 degrees.
Thats because the upper arm joint on the axle moves slightly forward when
the axle drops, and the lower arm joint on the axle moves backwards.

5 degrees of caster is outside the 6-8 degrees range given by the
manufacturer. But still not enough alone to prevent self centering.
Another problem such as the balljoint failure must co-exist, that together
with the reduced self-centering force has become apparent.

Bill Spiliotopoulos,

'96 XJ,
'06 TJ.