TJ not returning to center after turn
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ not returning to center after turn
You are describing the classic symptom of improper Caster Angle.
Draw an imaginary line from the lower to the upper ball joints that passes
through the center of the spindle. This line must favor leaning toward the
back of the vehicle, I _think_ this is called "negative caster," but I'm not
entirely certain of the term.
This problem typically come after adding a lift kit.
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
>I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>
Draw an imaginary line from the lower to the upper ball joints that passes
through the center of the spindle. This line must favor leaning toward the
back of the vehicle, I _think_ this is called "negative caster," but I'm not
entirely certain of the term.
This problem typically come after adding a lift kit.
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
>I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ not returning to center after turn
You are describing the classic symptom of improper Caster Angle.
Draw an imaginary line from the lower to the upper ball joints that passes
through the center of the spindle. This line must favor leaning toward the
back of the vehicle, I _think_ this is called "negative caster," but I'm not
entirely certain of the term.
This problem typically come after adding a lift kit.
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
>I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>
Draw an imaginary line from the lower to the upper ball joints that passes
through the center of the spindle. This line must favor leaning toward the
back of the vehicle, I _think_ this is called "negative caster," but I'm not
entirely certain of the term.
This problem typically come after adding a lift kit.
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
>I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ not returning to center after turn
You are describing the classic symptom of improper Caster Angle.
Draw an imaginary line from the lower to the upper ball joints that passes
through the center of the spindle. This line must favor leaning toward the
back of the vehicle, I _think_ this is called "negative caster," but I'm not
entirely certain of the term.
This problem typically come after adding a lift kit.
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
>I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>
Draw an imaginary line from the lower to the upper ball joints that passes
through the center of the spindle. This line must favor leaning toward the
back of the vehicle, I _think_ this is called "negative caster," but I'm not
entirely certain of the term.
This problem typically come after adding a lift kit.
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
>I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ not returning to center after turn
You are describing the classic symptom of improper Caster Angle.
Draw an imaginary line from the lower to the upper ball joints that passes
through the center of the spindle. This line must favor leaning toward the
back of the vehicle, I _think_ this is called "negative caster," but I'm not
entirely certain of the term.
This problem typically come after adding a lift kit.
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
>I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>
Draw an imaginary line from the lower to the upper ball joints that passes
through the center of the spindle. This line must favor leaning toward the
back of the vehicle, I _think_ this is called "negative caster," but I'm not
entirely certain of the term.
This problem typically come after adding a lift kit.
"97tjMike" <MichaelJunior@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1188057081.813118.205020@q4g2000prc.googlegro ups.com...
>I have a 1997 TJ Sport with power steering. I posted this question a
> while ago but never really got an answer. The problem is that the
> steering wheel does not *completely* return to center after a turn. It
> attempts to, but never completely bounces back. Also, when driving
> straight down the road, the steering wheel does not "bounce back" to
> center if it is turned or flicked a little bit. It's kind've like
> something is binding. I asked a mechanic and he suggested checking the
> U-Joints, which I did and they are both OK. I suggested an alignment
> due to a bad castor angler but he said the castor cannot go off
> enought to do what it's doing. The dealer I called also said an
> alignment wouldn't fix the problem, and it was probably a worn out
> part. Here's what I know:
>
> Recent new Steering Box (problem happened before and after
> replacement)
> Good Front U-Joints (not binding up anyways)
> New sway bars (don't think that's related but I'll put it up here
> anyways)
> Recent lube of all zerk fittings when I did my oil change a few months
> ago.
>
> I haven't had it aligned since I bought it, however I have put a 2
> inch spacer coil lift on it and when I did that I did a self-
> adjustment of the toe-in and the steering wheel centering.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ not returning to center after turn
I wasn't very clear earlier.
When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle settles
into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to be
straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed that
the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of the
very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers go
straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.
When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn back
to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I like
is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel nearly full
lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go forward, and
should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it needs that much.
A U-turn should be self-centering too.
I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and you
are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end closer
to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well have them
physically make the change to the max setting.
If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
are not at the preferred setting.
When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle settles
into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to be
straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed that
the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of the
very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers go
straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.
When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn back
to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I like
is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel nearly full
lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go forward, and
should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it needs that much.
A U-turn should be self-centering too.
I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and you
are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end closer
to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well have them
physically make the change to the max setting.
If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
are not at the preferred setting.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ not returning to center after turn
I wasn't very clear earlier.
When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle settles
into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to be
straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed that
the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of the
very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers go
straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.
When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn back
to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I like
is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel nearly full
lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go forward, and
should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it needs that much.
A U-turn should be self-centering too.
I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and you
are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end closer
to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well have them
physically make the change to the max setting.
If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
are not at the preferred setting.
When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle settles
into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to be
straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed that
the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of the
very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers go
straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.
When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn back
to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I like
is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel nearly full
lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go forward, and
should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it needs that much.
A U-turn should be self-centering too.
I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and you
are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end closer
to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well have them
physically make the change to the max setting.
If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
are not at the preferred setting.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: TJ not returning to center after turn
I wasn't very clear earlier.
When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle settles
into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to be
straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed that
the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of the
very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers go
straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.
When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn back
to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I like
is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel nearly full
lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go forward, and
should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it needs that much.
A U-turn should be self-centering too.
I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and you
are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end closer
to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well have them
physically make the change to the max setting.
If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
are not at the preferred setting.
When you have sufficient negative caster, the weight of the vehicle settles
into the steering geometry and literally forces the front tires to be
straight ahead. If you've ever ridden a chopper, you probably noticed that
the steering was very heavy to get off of center, this is because of the
very steep Caster Angle that is a natural part of a chopper. Choppers go
straight very easily, but it can be a chore to make them turn.
When your Jeep has sufficient Caster Angle, the tires will prefer to be
pointed straight ahead. If your Caster angle is almost right, you might
notice that the wheel will spin almost by itself from a full lock turn back
to center, or within about a 1/4 to 1/8th turn from center. It is not
unusual that the steering will have a bit of slop on either side of center
where you have to provide the input, but outside of the slop range, the
wheel should return to the slop range pretty much by itself. The test I like
is to mimic backing out of a parking space and turning the wheel nearly full
lock -- the wheel should move towards the center when you go forward, and
should require little more than a flick of the wrist if it needs that much.
A U-turn should be self-centering too.
I think you need to visit an alignment shop to have the caster angle
adjusted more negative. There is a specifrication for this setting, and you
are likely at the end closer to zero, but you need to be at the end closer
to the max. range. Since they have to check it, you may as well have them
physically make the change to the max setting.
If the range is -0.1 to -0.7, then you are currently closer to -0.1, but
want to be closer to -0.7. I don't know what the spec is, I just know you
are not at the preferred setting.
