TW

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406230749.6b17ae4f@posting.google.c om...
>
> As stated, I've heard nothing but good things about it. The quality of
> the parts looked good to me. I was especially impressed with the care
> and thought put into the bar pins for the shocks as compared to the
> cheap bar pins used in my crappy Pro-Comp ES3000 shocks.

I'll go with OME bar pins and hope they don't give me trouble.

> A couple good friends are currently running this kit, one with
> additional space for 33" tires provided by a body lift kit, the other
> being the one I mentioned helping install the kit. They both like the
> kits very much.
> The guy I helped install it says the ride is much better both on and
> off-road.

I just got new tyres a month ago, so I'll just wait for them to wear out
and restart the whole process (I am not telling my wife though).

> You have a few choices here. One, the drop kit. Two, a Motor Mount
> Lift or Motor Mount spacer. Some MMLs require a body lift, which you
> may not want to do. I do know the friend I helped install the OME kit
> on did the JKS Motor Mount Spacers (essentially rectangular blocks of
> metal that go under the existing motor mounts to raise them) without
> doing a body lift, and had no clearance issues. The MML allowed him to
> get away without dropping the T-Case skid plate; the angle change in
> the driveline provided by lifting the motor mounts alleviated the rear
> driveline u-joint angles just enough to cure the vibes he got after
> installing the kit. The final choice is, if you're lucky, not needing
> either of these remedies. I wouldn't hold out too much hope for being
> that lucky though. Of course, Murphy tends to follow me around with a
> sledge hammer whenever I'm doing anything having to do with the Jeep
> ;-)
> My friend did try to get away without the MML at first, but got vibes.
> He was very happy that (a) he didn't need the body lift to install the
> MML, and that (b) it fully cured the vibes for him.

Wouldn't the MML ever so slightly increase my centre of gravity even
higher? The t/c drop kit comes with the OME kit. So I guess I can use it
till I go to SYE.

> The friend I helped install the OME lift got the heavy setup. He has
> no winch, just a slightly heavier aftermarket rear bumper. Still stock
> up front. His jeep looks good, rides well, and sits pretty much level
> (at least eyeballing it...I haven't measured it exactly). Also, by
> going with the heavy, he has capacity for future mods, without them
> allowing as much sag as the light setup would assuredly have. He is
> still measuring 3" of lift off the kit; this may have something to do
> with him going with the heavy duty springs.

I am now inclining towards heavy springs as well.

> If the LCA just twists out of shape but holds it structural integrity,
> you'll be fine. If it tears or breaks, or somehow buckles, you'll have
> more trouble. The lower control arm does the heavy grunt work of
> keeping the axle in place front to back. The upper control arm will
> help, but that lower control arm really needs to be there and
> structurally sound to keep the axle in place. I have torn a control
> arm mount off my axle on the trail; the way I got home: I chained the
> axle to the front bumper towhook to keep the axle from traveling
> backwards when it hit a bump while I drove forward. I made a point of
> never backing up. It got me home, but I'm not sure how particularly
> wise it was for me to drive it on the highway with the right front
> part of axle being held in place largely by just a chain ;-)
> That said, I doubt a twisting of your stock LCA would cause a
> catastrophic failure like what I had; it would just weaken your
> control over that axle, and you would likely still be able to limp
> home without too much trouble.

I really hope I don't get to use this trick, but I'll leave the stock ones
on for now.

> The OME kit we installed just had the rear bumpstop extensions, not
> the front. I don't know if this is a bad call, but I think it's likely
> ok. He's done ok so far. You could fully compress a front shock,
> measure it, then measure the approximate distance between shock
> mounting points that would occur with the stock front bumpstop
> contacting the bottom of the spring pad.
> I think part of the reasoning could also be that the spring, with its
> greater number of coils, would simply not allow itself to compress
> enough to exceed the compression minimum of the front shocks.

I have 32 inch tyres. I think doing the front ones as well will be safer
for my fenders and tyres.

> Technically the swaybar should be level. But seeing as the lift isn't
> that great, I'm sure you'll be fine until you put on some proper
> length disconnect-style links. After all, the swaybar does nothing to
> "support" the axle; it just provides a connection between the two ends
> of the axle. It will still do its job even if it's not parallel to the
> ground at the link attachment points. It just might not be quite as
> smooth a ride in the process, and will restrict articulation further
> than a properly positioned swaybar (which doesn't matter if you're
> gonna fully disconnect it off-road anyway).

I'll change to longer disconnects to compensate for the increase in height.

> With the t-case dropped and/or the MML (motor mount lift) installed,
> you should be ok drivetrain-wise until your planned SYE/CV tailshaft
> conversion. The diff gearing will definitely be nice, too, but you'll
> be able to live easily until your planned time to do this. Other than
> that, I would recommend some upgrades to skid plating. I can't tell
> you how much use I get out of my steering box skid (best $40 I've
> spent on my Jeep). As you get more confidence and do harder trails, it
> helps to protect the oil pan as well. Also, while the rear gas skid is
> adequate for what most people do, mine has gotten crushed pretty good
> to this point. Getting an aftermarket thicker one is definitely high
> on my priority list. Finally, that front diff cover keeps wacking
> stuff. I have just recently ordered a cage to protect it. People often
> overlook these things, or think that because they have a lift they
> won't hit this stuff anymore; problem is, you get a lift, find you are
> more capable, and end up trying harder lines, and so still smack these
> same vulnerable parts into the rocks or what have you. Granted, my
> off-roading is largely based on rock-crawling; if yours is not, these
> sorts of skid plating additions may not be as important.

The trouble with buying skid plates for me is that I am in New Zealand and
we have RHD TJs. Off the shelf US made steeting box skid plates don't fit.
I know some manufacturers are now doing RHD versions as well. But then we
don't have many hard rock trails (just a few). Mostly its mud (normal and
clay variety) and grassy slopes (which are extremely slippery).

> If you can get the OME locally, with a 2 year warranty, I see no
> reason not to get it. It's a very good lift for someone who wants to
> stay moderate, or is on a budget. It's also the best you can do
> without being forced into a very fast string of mods to "fix" things
> that the lift geometry messes up.

Thanks.

> My friend with the OME kit is running 31s. With the amount of space he
> has, he could probably do 32s without too much worry about rubbing.
> The guy with the OME kit plus 1" body lift is running 33s with no
> problem. The guy with the 33s is running a 11.5 width; the guy with
> the 31s is running 10.5 width tires.

Thanks Bob. Its a question of negotiating a price with the local supplier
now. I can do it because he imports it from Australia and I can play forex
parity changes with him for a better price. I have next week off work so
I'll go and see what happens.

TW
--
01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto
D30/44, 265/75R16 BFG Muds

TW

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406230749.6b17ae4f@posting.google.c om...
>
> As stated, I've heard nothing but good things about it. The quality of
> the parts looked good to me. I was especially impressed with the care
> and thought put into the bar pins for the shocks as compared to the
> cheap bar pins used in my crappy Pro-Comp ES3000 shocks.

I'll go with OME bar pins and hope they don't give me trouble.

> A couple good friends are currently running this kit, one with
> additional space for 33" tires provided by a body lift kit, the other
> being the one I mentioned helping install the kit. They both like the
> kits very much.
> The guy I helped install it says the ride is much better both on and
> off-road.

I just got new tyres a month ago, so I'll just wait for them to wear out
and restart the whole process (I am not telling my wife though).

> You have a few choices here. One, the drop kit. Two, a Motor Mount
> Lift or Motor Mount spacer. Some MMLs require a body lift, which you
> may not want to do. I do know the friend I helped install the OME kit
> on did the JKS Motor Mount Spacers (essentially rectangular blocks of
> metal that go under the existing motor mounts to raise them) without
> doing a body lift, and had no clearance issues. The MML allowed him to
> get away without dropping the T-Case skid plate; the angle change in
> the driveline provided by lifting the motor mounts alleviated the rear
> driveline u-joint angles just enough to cure the vibes he got after
> installing the kit. The final choice is, if you're lucky, not needing
> either of these remedies. I wouldn't hold out too much hope for being
> that lucky though. Of course, Murphy tends to follow me around with a
> sledge hammer whenever I'm doing anything having to do with the Jeep
> ;-)
> My friend did try to get away without the MML at first, but got vibes.
> He was very happy that (a) he didn't need the body lift to install the
> MML, and that (b) it fully cured the vibes for him.

Wouldn't the MML ever so slightly increase my centre of gravity even
higher? The t/c drop kit comes with the OME kit. So I guess I can use it
till I go to SYE.

> The friend I helped install the OME lift got the heavy setup. He has
> no winch, just a slightly heavier aftermarket rear bumper. Still stock
> up front. His jeep looks good, rides well, and sits pretty much level
> (at least eyeballing it...I haven't measured it exactly). Also, by
> going with the heavy, he has capacity for future mods, without them
> allowing as much sag as the light setup would assuredly have. He is
> still measuring 3" of lift off the kit; this may have something to do
> with him going with the heavy duty springs.

I am now inclining towards heavy springs as well.

> If the LCA just twists out of shape but holds it structural integrity,
> you'll be fine. If it tears or breaks, or somehow buckles, you'll have
> more trouble. The lower control arm does the heavy grunt work of
> keeping the axle in place front to back. The upper control arm will
> help, but that lower control arm really needs to be there and
> structurally sound to keep the axle in place. I have torn a control
> arm mount off my axle on the trail; the way I got home: I chained the
> axle to the front bumper towhook to keep the axle from traveling
> backwards when it hit a bump while I drove forward. I made a point of
> never backing up. It got me home, but I'm not sure how particularly
> wise it was for me to drive it on the highway with the right front
> part of axle being held in place largely by just a chain ;-)
> That said, I doubt a twisting of your stock LCA would cause a
> catastrophic failure like what I had; it would just weaken your
> control over that axle, and you would likely still be able to limp
> home without too much trouble.

I really hope I don't get to use this trick, but I'll leave the stock ones
on for now.

> The OME kit we installed just had the rear bumpstop extensions, not
> the front. I don't know if this is a bad call, but I think it's likely
> ok. He's done ok so far. You could fully compress a front shock,
> measure it, then measure the approximate distance between shock
> mounting points that would occur with the stock front bumpstop
> contacting the bottom of the spring pad.
> I think part of the reasoning could also be that the spring, with its
> greater number of coils, would simply not allow itself to compress
> enough to exceed the compression minimum of the front shocks.

I have 32 inch tyres. I think doing the front ones as well will be safer
for my fenders and tyres.

> Technically the swaybar should be level. But seeing as the lift isn't
> that great, I'm sure you'll be fine until you put on some proper
> length disconnect-style links. After all, the swaybar does nothing to
> "support" the axle; it just provides a connection between the two ends
> of the axle. It will still do its job even if it's not parallel to the
> ground at the link attachment points. It just might not be quite as
> smooth a ride in the process, and will restrict articulation further
> than a properly positioned swaybar (which doesn't matter if you're
> gonna fully disconnect it off-road anyway).

I'll change to longer disconnects to compensate for the increase in height.

> With the t-case dropped and/or the MML (motor mount lift) installed,
> you should be ok drivetrain-wise until your planned SYE/CV tailshaft
> conversion. The diff gearing will definitely be nice, too, but you'll
> be able to live easily until your planned time to do this. Other than
> that, I would recommend some upgrades to skid plating. I can't tell
> you how much use I get out of my steering box skid (best $40 I've
> spent on my Jeep). As you get more confidence and do harder trails, it
> helps to protect the oil pan as well. Also, while the rear gas skid is
> adequate for what most people do, mine has gotten crushed pretty good
> to this point. Getting an aftermarket thicker one is definitely high
> on my priority list. Finally, that front diff cover keeps wacking
> stuff. I have just recently ordered a cage to protect it. People often
> overlook these things, or think that because they have a lift they
> won't hit this stuff anymore; problem is, you get a lift, find you are
> more capable, and end up trying harder lines, and so still smack these
> same vulnerable parts into the rocks or what have you. Granted, my
> off-roading is largely based on rock-crawling; if yours is not, these
> sorts of skid plating additions may not be as important.

The trouble with buying skid plates for me is that I am in New Zealand and
we have RHD TJs. Off the shelf US made steeting box skid plates don't fit.
I know some manufacturers are now doing RHD versions as well. But then we
don't have many hard rock trails (just a few). Mostly its mud (normal and
clay variety) and grassy slopes (which are extremely slippery).

> If you can get the OME locally, with a 2 year warranty, I see no
> reason not to get it. It's a very good lift for someone who wants to
> stay moderate, or is on a budget. It's also the best you can do
> without being forced into a very fast string of mods to "fix" things
> that the lift geometry messes up.

Thanks.

> My friend with the OME kit is running 31s. With the amount of space he
> has, he could probably do 32s without too much worry about rubbing.
> The guy with the OME kit plus 1" body lift is running 33s with no
> problem. The guy with the 33s is running a 11.5 width; the guy with
> the 31s is running 10.5 width tires.

Thanks Bob. Its a question of negotiating a price with the local supplier
now. I can do it because he imports it from Australia and I can play forex
parity changes with him for a better price. I have next week off work so
I'll go and see what happens.

TW
--
01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto
D30/44, 265/75R16 BFG Muds

TW

"Bob" <magicclaw@mac.com> wrote in message
news:47b769ae.0406230749.6b17ae4f@posting.google.c om...
>
> As stated, I've heard nothing but good things about it. The quality of
> the parts looked good to me. I was especially impressed with the care
> and thought put into the bar pins for the shocks as compared to the
> cheap bar pins used in my crappy Pro-Comp ES3000 shocks.

I'll go with OME bar pins and hope they don't give me trouble.

> A couple good friends are currently running this kit, one with
> additional space for 33" tires provided by a body lift kit, the other
> being the one I mentioned helping install the kit. They both like the
> kits very much.
> The guy I helped install it says the ride is much better both on and
> off-road.

I just got new tyres a month ago, so I'll just wait for them to wear out
and restart the whole process (I am not telling my wife though).

> You have a few choices here. One, the drop kit. Two, a Motor Mount
> Lift or Motor Mount spacer. Some MMLs require a body lift, which you
> may not want to do. I do know the friend I helped install the OME kit
> on did the JKS Motor Mount Spacers (essentially rectangular blocks of
> metal that go under the existing motor mounts to raise them) without
> doing a body lift, and had no clearance issues. The MML allowed him to
> get away without dropping the T-Case skid plate; the angle change in
> the driveline provided by lifting the motor mounts alleviated the rear
> driveline u-joint angles just enough to cure the vibes he got after
> installing the kit. The final choice is, if you're lucky, not needing
> either of these remedies. I wouldn't hold out too much hope for being
> that lucky though. Of course, Murphy tends to follow me around with a
> sledge hammer whenever I'm doing anything having to do with the Jeep
> ;-)
> My friend did try to get away without the MML at first, but got vibes.
> He was very happy that (a) he didn't need the body lift to install the
> MML, and that (b) it fully cured the vibes for him.

Wouldn't the MML ever so slightly increase my centre of gravity even
higher? The t/c drop kit comes with the OME kit. So I guess I can use it
till I go to SYE.

> The friend I helped install the OME lift got the heavy setup. He has
> no winch, just a slightly heavier aftermarket rear bumper. Still stock
> up front. His jeep looks good, rides well, and sits pretty much level
> (at least eyeballing it...I haven't measured it exactly). Also, by
> going with the heavy, he has capacity for future mods, without them
> allowing as much sag as the light setup would assuredly have. He is
> still measuring 3" of lift off the kit; this may have something to do
> with him going with the heavy duty springs.

I am now inclining towards heavy springs as well.

> If the LCA just twists out of shape but holds it structural integrity,
> you'll be fine. If it tears or breaks, or somehow buckles, you'll have
> more trouble. The lower control arm does the heavy grunt work of
> keeping the axle in place front to back. The upper control arm will
> help, but that lower control arm really needs to be there and
> structurally sound to keep the axle in place. I have torn a control
> arm mount off my axle on the trail; the way I got home: I chained the
> axle to the front bumper towhook to keep the axle from traveling
> backwards when it hit a bump while I drove forward. I made a point of
> never backing up. It got me home, but I'm not sure how particularly
> wise it was for me to drive it on the highway with the right front
> part of axle being held in place largely by just a chain ;-)
> That said, I doubt a twisting of your stock LCA would cause a
> catastrophic failure like what I had; it would just weaken your
> control over that axle, and you would likely still be able to limp
> home without too much trouble.

I really hope I don't get to use this trick, but I'll leave the stock ones
on for now.

> The OME kit we installed just had the rear bumpstop extensions, not
> the front. I don't know if this is a bad call, but I think it's likely
> ok. He's done ok so far. You could fully compress a front shock,
> measure it, then measure the approximate distance between shock
> mounting points that would occur with the stock front bumpstop
> contacting the bottom of the spring pad.
> I think part of the reasoning could also be that the spring, with its
> greater number of coils, would simply not allow itself to compress
> enough to exceed the compression minimum of the front shocks.

I have 32 inch tyres. I think doing the front ones as well will be safer
for my fenders and tyres.

> Technically the swaybar should be level. But seeing as the lift isn't
> that great, I'm sure you'll be fine until you put on some proper
> length disconnect-style links. After all, the swaybar does nothing to
> "support" the axle; it just provides a connection between the two ends
> of the axle. It will still do its job even if it's not parallel to the
> ground at the link attachment points. It just might not be quite as
> smooth a ride in the process, and will restrict articulation further
> than a properly positioned swaybar (which doesn't matter if you're
> gonna fully disconnect it off-road anyway).

I'll change to longer disconnects to compensate for the increase in height.

> With the t-case dropped and/or the MML (motor mount lift) installed,
> you should be ok drivetrain-wise until your planned SYE/CV tailshaft
> conversion. The diff gearing will definitely be nice, too, but you'll
> be able to live easily until your planned time to do this. Other than
> that, I would recommend some upgrades to skid plating. I can't tell
> you how much use I get out of my steering box skid (best $40 I've
> spent on my Jeep). As you get more confidence and do harder trails, it
> helps to protect the oil pan as well. Also, while the rear gas skid is
> adequate for what most people do, mine has gotten crushed pretty good
> to this point. Getting an aftermarket thicker one is definitely high
> on my priority list. Finally, that front diff cover keeps wacking
> stuff. I have just recently ordered a cage to protect it. People often
> overlook these things, or think that because they have a lift they
> won't hit this stuff anymore; problem is, you get a lift, find you are
> more capable, and end up trying harder lines, and so still smack these
> same vulnerable parts into the rocks or what have you. Granted, my
> off-roading is largely based on rock-crawling; if yours is not, these
> sorts of skid plating additions may not be as important.

The trouble with buying skid plates for me is that I am in New Zealand and
we have RHD TJs. Off the shelf US made steeting box skid plates don't fit.
I know some manufacturers are now doing RHD versions as well. But then we
don't have many hard rock trails (just a few). Mostly its mud (normal and
clay variety) and grassy slopes (which are extremely slippery).

> If you can get the OME locally, with a 2 year warranty, I see no
> reason not to get it. It's a very good lift for someone who wants to
> stay moderate, or is on a budget. It's also the best you can do
> without being forced into a very fast string of mods to "fix" things
> that the lift geometry messes up.

Thanks.

> My friend with the OME kit is running 31s. With the amount of space he
> has, he could probably do 32s without too much worry about rubbing.
> The guy with the OME kit plus 1" body lift is running 33s with no
> problem. The guy with the 33s is running a 11.5 width; the guy with
> the 31s is running 10.5 width tires.

Thanks Bob. Its a question of negotiating a price with the local supplier
now. I can do it because he imports it from Australia and I can play forex
parity changes with him for a better price. I have next week off work so
I'll go and see what happens.

TW
--
01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto
D30/44, 265/75R16 BFG Muds

jbjeep

>>1) Is OME a reliable enough maker of quality products?

Heard VERY VERY GOOD things about them. If they had a taller lift I would have gone
with it when I first lifted my TJ.

>>2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?

Those I know have liked them, those that have changed them out is due to needing more
lift than that.

>>4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I do
>>have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the plan
>>within the next 12/18 months.

Go with the heavy then. You will need it in the long run.

>>9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with a
>>more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
>>warrantee.

Probably not in your case.

>>I understand that with 32x10.50 inch equivalent tyres, I should be okay
>>with a 2-2.5 inch lift.

Yes.

jbjeep

>>1) Is OME a reliable enough maker of quality products?

Heard VERY VERY GOOD things about them. If they had a taller lift I would have gone
with it when I first lifted my TJ.

>>2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?

Those I know have liked them, those that have changed them out is due to needing more
lift than that.

>>4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I do
>>have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the plan
>>within the next 12/18 months.

Go with the heavy then. You will need it in the long run.

>>9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with a
>>more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
>>warrantee.

Probably not in your case.

>>I understand that with 32x10.50 inch equivalent tyres, I should be okay
>>with a 2-2.5 inch lift.

Yes.

jbjeep

>>1) Is OME a reliable enough maker of quality products?

Heard VERY VERY GOOD things about them. If they had a taller lift I would have gone
with it when I first lifted my TJ.

>>2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?

Those I know have liked them, those that have changed them out is due to needing more
lift than that.

>>4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I do
>>have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the plan
>>within the next 12/18 months.

Go with the heavy then. You will need it in the long run.

>>9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with a
>>more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
>>warrantee.

Probably not in your case.

>>I understand that with 32x10.50 inch equivalent tyres, I should be okay
>>with a 2-2.5 inch lift.

Yes.

jbjeep

>>1) Is OME a reliable enough maker of quality products?

Heard VERY VERY GOOD things about them. If they had a taller lift I would have gone
with it when I first lifted my TJ.

>>2) Is anybody running OME? What are their experiences?

Those I know have liked them, those that have changed them out is due to needing more
lift than that.

>>4) Which shock and spring rate (medium or heavy) should I go with? I do
>>have a hardtop, but heavier bumpers, skid plates and winch is in the plan
>>within the next 12/18 months.

Go with the heavy then. You will need it in the long run.

>>9) Am I better off with importing a kit from another manufacturer with a
>>more complete list of parts. OME can be sourced locally with a 2 year
>>warrantee.

Probably not in your case.

>>I understand that with 32x10.50 inch equivalent tyres, I should be okay
>>with a 2-2.5 inch lift.

Yes.

TW

"jbjeep" <jbjeep@saw.net> wrote in message
news:hc8kd0p1qagelkukncn85rocvnuqcgok5k@4ax.com...
>
> Heard VERY VERY GOOD things about them. If they had a taller lift I
would have gone
> with it when I first lifted my TJ.
>

More music to my ears.

>
> Those I know have liked them, those that have changed them out is due to
needing more
> lift than that.
>

I just got new tyres and this lift and tyres combo should last a couple of
years for me to gain more experience and then decide whether I want to go
any higher or stay with this setup. At this stage, its my daily driver as
well so I have to be moderate in my insanity.

>
> Go with the heavy then. You will need it in the long run.
>

Thanks.

>
> Probably not in your case.
>

Thanks for your comments, they are much appreciated. I am not prepared to
dedicate one vehicle to trail use only at this stage. As such, everything
(including my budget) has to be in moderation. May be in 2/3 years things
might change.

TW

TW

"jbjeep" <jbjeep@saw.net> wrote in message
news:hc8kd0p1qagelkukncn85rocvnuqcgok5k@4ax.com...
>
> Heard VERY VERY GOOD things about them. If they had a taller lift I
would have gone
> with it when I first lifted my TJ.
>

More music to my ears.

>
> Those I know have liked them, those that have changed them out is due to
needing more
> lift than that.
>

I just got new tyres and this lift and tyres combo should last a couple of
years for me to gain more experience and then decide whether I want to go
any higher or stay with this setup. At this stage, its my daily driver as
well so I have to be moderate in my insanity.

>
> Go with the heavy then. You will need it in the long run.
>

Thanks.

>
> Probably not in your case.
>

Thanks for your comments, they are much appreciated. I am not prepared to
dedicate one vehicle to trail use only at this stage. As such, everything
(including my budget) has to be in moderation. May be in 2/3 years things
might change.

TW

TW

"jbjeep" <jbjeep@saw.net> wrote in message
news:hc8kd0p1qagelkukncn85rocvnuqcgok5k@4ax.com...
>
> Heard VERY VERY GOOD things about them. If they had a taller lift I
would have gone
> with it when I first lifted my TJ.
>

More music to my ears.

>
> Those I know have liked them, those that have changed them out is due to
needing more
> lift than that.
>

I just got new tyres and this lift and tyres combo should last a couple of
years for me to gain more experience and then decide whether I want to go
any higher or stay with this setup. At this stage, its my daily driver as
well so I have to be moderate in my insanity.

>
> Go with the heavy then. You will need it in the long run.
>

Thanks.

>
> Probably not in your case.
>

Thanks for your comments, they are much appreciated. I am not prepared to
dedicate one vehicle to trail use only at this stage. As such, everything
(including my budget) has to be in moderation. May be in 2/3 years things
might change.

TW