Tie Rod Issues and replacement
09-18-2006, 04:45 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and won't work.
Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
On 9/18/06 3:11 PM, in article C13467B9.8E37%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
> Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
> top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
>
> Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
> axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
> outer tie rod end.
>
> As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
> jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
> yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
>
> Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
> cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
> and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
>
> Thanks in advance for all your replies.
>
> -Les
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
>> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
>> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
>> shows.
>>
>> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
>> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
>> piece.
>>
>> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
>> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
>> in the hole once you get it off.
>>
>> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
>> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
>> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>>
>> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>>
>> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
>> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
>> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
>> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
>> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
On 9/18/06 3:11 PM, in article C13467B9.8E37%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
> Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
> top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
>
> Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
> axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
> outer tie rod end.
>
> As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
> jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
> yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
>
> Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
> cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
> and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
>
> Thanks in advance for all your replies.
>
> -Les
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
>> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
>> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
>> shows.
>>
>> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
>> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
>> piece.
>>
>> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
>> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
>> in the hole once you get it off.
>>
>> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
>> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
>> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>>
>> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>>
>> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
>> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
>> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
>> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
>> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
09-18-2006, 04:45 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and won't work.
Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
On 9/18/06 3:11 PM, in article C13467B9.8E37%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
> Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
> top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
>
> Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
> axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
> outer tie rod end.
>
> As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
> jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
> yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
>
> Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
> cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
> and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
>
> Thanks in advance for all your replies.
>
> -Les
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
>> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
>> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
>> shows.
>>
>> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
>> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
>> piece.
>>
>> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
>> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
>> in the hole once you get it off.
>>
>> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
>> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
>> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>>
>> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>>
>> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
>> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
>> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
>> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
>> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
On 9/18/06 3:11 PM, in article C13467B9.8E37%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
> Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
> top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
>
> Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
> axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
> outer tie rod end.
>
> As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
> jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
> yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
>
> Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
> cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
> and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
>
> Thanks in advance for all your replies.
>
> -Les
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
>> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
>> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
>> shows.
>>
>> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
>> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
>> piece.
>>
>> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
>> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
>> in the hole once you get it off.
>>
>> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
>> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
>> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>>
>> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>>
>> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
>> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
>> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
>> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
>> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
09-18-2006, 04:45 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and won't work.
Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
On 9/18/06 3:11 PM, in article C13467B9.8E37%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
> Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
> top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
>
> Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
> axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
> outer tie rod end.
>
> As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
> jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
> yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
>
> Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
> cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
> and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
>
> Thanks in advance for all your replies.
>
> -Les
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
>> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
>> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
>> shows.
>>
>> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
>> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
>> piece.
>>
>> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
>> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
>> in the hole once you get it off.
>>
>> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
>> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
>> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>>
>> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>>
>> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
>> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
>> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
>> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
>> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
On 9/18/06 3:11 PM, in article C13467B9.8E37%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
> Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
> top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
>
> Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
> axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
> outer tie rod end.
>
> As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
> jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
> yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
>
> Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
> cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
> and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
>
> Thanks in advance for all your replies.
>
> -Les
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
>> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
>> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
>> shows.
>>
>> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
>> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
>> piece.
>>
>> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
>> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
>> in the hole once you get it off.
>>
>> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
>> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
>> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>>
>> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>>
>> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
>> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
>> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
>> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
>> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
09-18-2006, 04:51 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Les wrote:
> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
--
DougW
> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
--
DougW
09-18-2006, 04:51 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Les wrote:
> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
--
DougW
> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
--
DougW
09-18-2006, 04:51 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Les wrote:
> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
--
DougW
> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
--
DougW
09-18-2006, 05:23 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.
On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Les wrote:
>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>
> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>
> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>
> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Les wrote:
>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>
> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>
> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>
> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
09-18-2006, 05:23 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.
On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Les wrote:
>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>
> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>
> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>
> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Les wrote:
>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>
> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>
> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>
> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
09-18-2006, 05:23 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.
On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Les wrote:
>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>
> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>
> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>
> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> Les wrote:
>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>
> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>
> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>
> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
09-18-2006, 05:30 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Oops wrong part. It's $143, ouch. Some sites have this listed as a Drag
link, while others list it as a tie rod.. Aaargh.
On 9/18/06 4:23 PM, in article C134788D.8F08%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
> Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>
>> Les wrote:
>>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>>
>> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
>> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>>
>> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>>
>> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
>
link, while others list it as a tie rod.. Aaargh.
On 9/18/06 4:23 PM, in article C134788D.8F08%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
> Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>
>> Les wrote:
>>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>>
>> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
>> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>>
>> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>>
>> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
>
