Les

Oops wrong part. It's $143, ouch. Some sites have this listed as a Drag
link, while others list it as a tie rod.. Aaargh.



On 9/18/06 4:23 PM, in article C134788D.8F08%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:

> Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>
>> Les wrote:
>>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>>
>> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
>> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>>
>> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>>
>> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
>

Les

Oops wrong part. It's $143, ouch. Some sites have this listed as a Drag
link, while others list it as a tie rod.. Aaargh.



On 9/18/06 4:23 PM, in article C134788D.8F08%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:

> Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>
>> Les wrote:
>>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>>
>> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
>> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>>
>> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>>
>> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
>

Carl

Where are you located?

Carl

"Les" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:C1347A3E.8F10%nospam@nospam.com...
> Oops wrong part. It's $143, ouch. Some sites have this listed as a Drag
> link, while others list it as a tie rod.. Aaargh.
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 4:23 PM, in article C134788D.8F08%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
> <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
>
>> Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
>> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>>
>>> Les wrote:
>>>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>>>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>>>
>>> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
>>> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>>>
>>> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>>>
>>> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
>>
>

Carl

Where are you located?

Carl

"Les" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:C1347A3E.8F10%nospam@nospam.com...
> Oops wrong part. It's $143, ouch. Some sites have this listed as a Drag
> link, while others list it as a tie rod.. Aaargh.
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 4:23 PM, in article C134788D.8F08%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
> <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
>
>> Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
>> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>>
>>> Les wrote:
>>>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>>>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>>>
>>> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
>>> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>>>
>>> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>>>
>>> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
>>
>

Carl

Where are you located?

Carl

"Les" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:C1347A3E.8F10%nospam@nospam.com...
> Oops wrong part. It's $143, ouch. Some sites have this listed as a Drag
> link, while others list it as a tie rod.. Aaargh.
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 4:23 PM, in article C134788D.8F08%nospam@nospam.com, "Les"
> <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:
>
>> Wow the OEM price ($45) is less than Napa or Autozone. That's rare.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/18/06 3:51 PM, in article aFDPg.13224$JR5.6201@dukeread11, "DougW"
>> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>>
>>> Les wrote:
>>>> Just verified that XJ, ZJ, TJ tie rods are not the same type and
>>>> won't work. Guess I'll have to shell out the $100 for the new one.
>>>
>>> check with napaonline.com but only go with the NCP (napa chassis parts)
>>> line as the other cheaper line isn't that good.
>>>
>>> for OEM I deal with http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
>>>
>>> Just finished replacing the inner right joint (drag link to tie bar).
>>
>

Will Honea

If you have an inmpact wrench, you can usually get those @#$% nuts
started by pushing the socket on so that it holds the rod fairly solid
then bash the ball joint from the other side as you run the air. That
will drive the taper in far enough to grab for a bit - might even hold
to get it all the way off. When all else fails, you can usually cut
the grease boot out of the way and get a pipe wrench or big pair of
vice ripes on the lower part of the ball and/or the stem. Worst comes
to worst, just drive the pickle fork in like you were pulling the
thing out - that will usually hold them still as well - but you have
to keep driving it tight as you go.


On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 20:11:54 UTC Les <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:

> Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
> top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
>
> Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
> axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
> outer tie rod end.
>
> As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
> jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
> yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
>
> Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
> cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
> and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
>
> Thanks in advance for all your replies.
>
> -Les
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> > To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
> > folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
> > cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
> > shows.
> >
> > Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
> > that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
> > piece.
> >
> > If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
> > steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
> > in the hole once you get it off.
> >
> > I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
> > them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
> > cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
> >
> > I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
> >
> > The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
> > steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
> > the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
> > or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
> > straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>


--
Will Honea

Will Honea

If you have an inmpact wrench, you can usually get those @#$% nuts
started by pushing the socket on so that it holds the rod fairly solid
then bash the ball joint from the other side as you run the air. That
will drive the taper in far enough to grab for a bit - might even hold
to get it all the way off. When all else fails, you can usually cut
the grease boot out of the way and get a pipe wrench or big pair of
vice ripes on the lower part of the ball and/or the stem. Worst comes
to worst, just drive the pickle fork in like you were pulling the
thing out - that will usually hold them still as well - but you have
to keep driving it tight as you go.


On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 20:11:54 UTC Les <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:

> Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
> top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
>
> Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
> axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
> outer tie rod end.
>
> As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
> jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
> yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
>
> Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
> cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
> and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
>
> Thanks in advance for all your replies.
>
> -Les
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> > To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
> > folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
> > cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
> > shows.
> >
> > Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
> > that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
> > piece.
> >
> > If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
> > steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
> > in the hole once you get it off.
> >
> > I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
> > them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
> > cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
> >
> > I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
> >
> > The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
> > steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
> > the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
> > or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
> > straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>


--
Will Honea

Will Honea

If you have an inmpact wrench, you can usually get those @#$% nuts
started by pushing the socket on so that it holds the rod fairly solid
then bash the ball joint from the other side as you run the air. That
will drive the taper in far enough to grab for a bit - might even hold
to get it all the way off. When all else fails, you can usually cut
the grease boot out of the way and get a pipe wrench or big pair of
vice ripes on the lower part of the ball and/or the stem. Worst comes
to worst, just drive the pickle fork in like you were pulling the
thing out - that will usually hold them still as well - but you have
to keep driving it tight as you go.


On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 20:11:54 UTC Les <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:

> Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
> top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
>
> Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
> axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
> outer tie rod end.
>
> As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
> jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
> yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
>
> Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
> cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
> and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
>
> Thanks in advance for all your replies.
>
> -Les
>
>
>
>
> On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> > To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
> > folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
> > cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
> > shows.
> >
> > Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
> > that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
> > piece.
> >
> > If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
> > steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
> > in the hole once you get it off.
> >
> > I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
> > them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
> > cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
> >
> > I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
> >
> > The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
> > steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
> > the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
> > or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
> > straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>


--
Will Honea

DougW

Will Honea wrote:
> If you have an inmpact wrench, you can usually get those @#$% nuts
> started by pushing the socket on so that it holds the rod fairly solid
> then bash the ball joint from the other side as you run the air. That
> will drive the taper in far enough to grab for a bit - might even hold
> to get it all the way off. When all else fails, you can usually cut
> the grease boot out of the way and get a pipe wrench or big pair of
> vice ripes on the lower part of the ball and/or the stem. Worst comes
> to worst, just drive the pickle fork in like you were pulling the
> thing out - that will usually hold them still as well - but you have
> to keep driving it tight as you go.

at that point I'd probably drag out a nut-splitter or the cutoff wheel.

--
DougW

DougW

Will Honea wrote:
> If you have an inmpact wrench, you can usually get those @#$% nuts
> started by pushing the socket on so that it holds the rod fairly solid
> then bash the ball joint from the other side as you run the air. That
> will drive the taper in far enough to grab for a bit - might even hold
> to get it all the way off. When all else fails, you can usually cut
> the grease boot out of the way and get a pipe wrench or big pair of
> vice ripes on the lower part of the ball and/or the stem. Worst comes
> to worst, just drive the pickle fork in like you were pulling the
> thing out - that will usually hold them still as well - but you have
> to keep driving it tight as you go.

at that point I'd probably drag out a nut-splitter or the cutoff wheel.

--
DougW