Tie Rod Issues and replacement
09-18-2006, 03:08 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Tie Rod Issues and replacement
92 YJ stock front axle and steering:
I've got a severely loose Passenger side Tie Rod end. Looks to me like the
ball joint itself is not replaceable and the passenger side doesn't have a
threaded end, so it looks like I'll have to replace the entire tie rod. I
though I'd look for one at a junkyard rather than getting a new one and was
wandering if XJ or ZJ etc. would also fit.
Upgrading the steering is not really a concern as I just want to get it road
worthy as cheap as possible so I can sell it.
Also is there a trick to getting these things off without cutting them off.
When I try to turn the castle nut off, the bolt and entire ball stud just
spins with it. Are they supposed to do that. I tries to push it back up into
the spindle arm, but it doesnąt want to seat I think the taper on the ball
stud is worn down or something.
I've got a severely loose Passenger side Tie Rod end. Looks to me like the
ball joint itself is not replaceable and the passenger side doesn't have a
threaded end, so it looks like I'll have to replace the entire tie rod. I
though I'd look for one at a junkyard rather than getting a new one and was
wandering if XJ or ZJ etc. would also fit.
Upgrading the steering is not really a concern as I just want to get it road
worthy as cheap as possible so I can sell it.
Also is there a trick to getting these things off without cutting them off.
When I try to turn the castle nut off, the bolt and entire ball stud just
spins with it. Are they supposed to do that. I tries to push it back up into
the spindle arm, but it doesnąt want to seat I think the taper on the ball
stud is worn down or something.
09-18-2006, 03:54 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Squeeze the stud into the spindle arm using big Channel-Locking pliers, a
vice grip, a hydraulic jack or whatever seems to work. This may lock the
stud into the socket enough so you can get the nut off. After spending a
couple hours at that, cutting the stud won't seem like such a bad idea. ;^)
Earle
"Les" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:C13458DA.8AAD%nospam@nospam.com...
> 92 YJ stock front axle and steering:
>
> I've got a severely loose Passenger side Tie Rod end. Looks to me like the
> ball joint itself is not replaceable and the passenger side doesn't have a
> threaded end, so it looks like I'll have to replace the entire tie rod. I
> though I'd look for one at a junkyard rather than getting a new one and
was
> wandering if XJ or ZJ etc. would also fit.
>
> Upgrading the steering is not really a concern as I just want to get it
road
> worthy as cheap as possible so I can sell it.
>
> Also is there a trick to getting these things off without cutting them
off.
> When I try to turn the castle nut off, the bolt and entire ball stud just
> spins with it. Are they supposed to do that. I tries to push it back up
into
> the spindle arm, but it doesnąt want to seat I think the taper on the ball
> stud is worn down or something.
>
vice grip, a hydraulic jack or whatever seems to work. This may lock the
stud into the socket enough so you can get the nut off. After spending a
couple hours at that, cutting the stud won't seem like such a bad idea. ;^)
Earle
"Les" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:C13458DA.8AAD%nospam@nospam.com...
> 92 YJ stock front axle and steering:
>
> I've got a severely loose Passenger side Tie Rod end. Looks to me like the
> ball joint itself is not replaceable and the passenger side doesn't have a
> threaded end, so it looks like I'll have to replace the entire tie rod. I
> though I'd look for one at a junkyard rather than getting a new one and
was
> wandering if XJ or ZJ etc. would also fit.
>
> Upgrading the steering is not really a concern as I just want to get it
road
> worthy as cheap as possible so I can sell it.
>
> Also is there a trick to getting these things off without cutting them
off.
> When I try to turn the castle nut off, the bolt and entire ball stud just
> spins with it. Are they supposed to do that. I tries to push it back up
into
> the spindle arm, but it doesnąt want to seat I think the taper on the ball
> stud is worn down or something.
>
09-18-2006, 03:54 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Squeeze the stud into the spindle arm using big Channel-Locking pliers, a
vice grip, a hydraulic jack or whatever seems to work. This may lock the
stud into the socket enough so you can get the nut off. After spending a
couple hours at that, cutting the stud won't seem like such a bad idea. ;^)
Earle
"Les" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:C13458DA.8AAD%nospam@nospam.com...
> 92 YJ stock front axle and steering:
>
> I've got a severely loose Passenger side Tie Rod end. Looks to me like the
> ball joint itself is not replaceable and the passenger side doesn't have a
> threaded end, so it looks like I'll have to replace the entire tie rod. I
> though I'd look for one at a junkyard rather than getting a new one and
was
> wandering if XJ or ZJ etc. would also fit.
>
> Upgrading the steering is not really a concern as I just want to get it
road
> worthy as cheap as possible so I can sell it.
>
> Also is there a trick to getting these things off without cutting them
off.
> When I try to turn the castle nut off, the bolt and entire ball stud just
> spins with it. Are they supposed to do that. I tries to push it back up
into
> the spindle arm, but it doesnąt want to seat I think the taper on the ball
> stud is worn down or something.
>
vice grip, a hydraulic jack or whatever seems to work. This may lock the
stud into the socket enough so you can get the nut off. After spending a
couple hours at that, cutting the stud won't seem like such a bad idea. ;^)
Earle
"Les" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:C13458DA.8AAD%nospam@nospam.com...
> 92 YJ stock front axle and steering:
>
> I've got a severely loose Passenger side Tie Rod end. Looks to me like the
> ball joint itself is not replaceable and the passenger side doesn't have a
> threaded end, so it looks like I'll have to replace the entire tie rod. I
> though I'd look for one at a junkyard rather than getting a new one and
was
> wandering if XJ or ZJ etc. would also fit.
>
> Upgrading the steering is not really a concern as I just want to get it
road
> worthy as cheap as possible so I can sell it.
>
> Also is there a trick to getting these things off without cutting them
off.
> When I try to turn the castle nut off, the bolt and entire ball stud just
> spins with it. Are they supposed to do that. I tries to push it back up
into
> the spindle arm, but it doesnąt want to seat I think the taper on the ball
> stud is worn down or something.
>
09-18-2006, 03:54 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Squeeze the stud into the spindle arm using big Channel-Locking pliers, a
vice grip, a hydraulic jack or whatever seems to work. This may lock the
stud into the socket enough so you can get the nut off. After spending a
couple hours at that, cutting the stud won't seem like such a bad idea. ;^)
Earle
"Les" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:C13458DA.8AAD%nospam@nospam.com...
> 92 YJ stock front axle and steering:
>
> I've got a severely loose Passenger side Tie Rod end. Looks to me like the
> ball joint itself is not replaceable and the passenger side doesn't have a
> threaded end, so it looks like I'll have to replace the entire tie rod. I
> though I'd look for one at a junkyard rather than getting a new one and
was
> wandering if XJ or ZJ etc. would also fit.
>
> Upgrading the steering is not really a concern as I just want to get it
road
> worthy as cheap as possible so I can sell it.
>
> Also is there a trick to getting these things off without cutting them
off.
> When I try to turn the castle nut off, the bolt and entire ball stud just
> spins with it. Are they supposed to do that. I tries to push it back up
into
> the spindle arm, but it doesnąt want to seat I think the taper on the ball
> stud is worn down or something.
>
vice grip, a hydraulic jack or whatever seems to work. This may lock the
stud into the socket enough so you can get the nut off. After spending a
couple hours at that, cutting the stud won't seem like such a bad idea. ;^)
Earle
"Les" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:C13458DA.8AAD%nospam@nospam.com...
> 92 YJ stock front axle and steering:
>
> I've got a severely loose Passenger side Tie Rod end. Looks to me like the
> ball joint itself is not replaceable and the passenger side doesn't have a
> threaded end, so it looks like I'll have to replace the entire tie rod. I
> though I'd look for one at a junkyard rather than getting a new one and
was
> wandering if XJ or ZJ etc. would also fit.
>
> Upgrading the steering is not really a concern as I just want to get it
road
> worthy as cheap as possible so I can sell it.
>
> Also is there a trick to getting these things off without cutting them
off.
> When I try to turn the castle nut off, the bolt and entire ball stud just
> spins with it. Are they supposed to do that. I tries to push it back up
into
> the spindle arm, but it doesnąt want to seat I think the taper on the ball
> stud is worn down or something.
>
09-18-2006, 03:57 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
shows.
Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
piece.
If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
in the hole once you get it off.
I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
shows.
Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
piece.
If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
in the hole once you get it off.
I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
09-18-2006, 03:57 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
shows.
Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
piece.
If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
in the hole once you get it off.
I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
shows.
Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
piece.
If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
in the hole once you get it off.
I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
09-18-2006, 03:57 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
shows.
Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
piece.
If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
in the hole once you get it off.
I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
shows.
Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
piece.
If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
in the hole once you get it off.
I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
09-18-2006, 04:11 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
outer tie rod end.
As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
Thanks in advance for all your replies.
-Les
On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
> shows.
>
> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
> piece.
>
> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
> in the hole once you get it off.
>
> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>
> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>
> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
outer tie rod end.
As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
Thanks in advance for all your replies.
-Les
On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
> shows.
>
> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
> piece.
>
> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
> in the hole once you get it off.
>
> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>
> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>
> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
09-18-2006, 04:11 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
outer tie rod end.
As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
Thanks in advance for all your replies.
-Les
On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
> shows.
>
> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
> piece.
>
> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
> in the hole once you get it off.
>
> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>
> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>
> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
outer tie rod end.
As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
Thanks in advance for all your replies.
-Les
On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
> shows.
>
> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
> piece.
>
> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
> in the hole once you get it off.
>
> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>
> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>
> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
09-18-2006, 04:11 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Tie Rod Issues and replacement
Sorry about the HTML, did that fix it? At least you guys don't seem to mind
top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
outer tie rod end.
As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
Thanks in advance for all your replies.
-Les
On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
> shows.
>
> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
> piece.
>
> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
> in the hole once you get it off.
>
> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>
> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>
> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
top posting. That really gets some groups in a bender!
Ya, that's the piece I'm talking about. The long one that's parallel to the
axle and connects to the pass side spindle. Parts store was calling it an
outer tie rod end.
As far as the replacement parts, do any of you know if XJ, ZJ, or any other
jeep models are compatible? I'd rather find a decent one at the salvage
yard, that pay the parts store $125 for a replacement.
Also I have a feeling that when I take this one off, I'll end up having to
cut off the "inner" tie rod links also. They are just a rusty as this one,
and I imagine they'll all be spinners too.
Thanks in advance for all your replies.
-Les
On 9/18/06 2:57 PM, in article 450EFA13.66E55181@sympatico.ca, "Mike Romain"
<romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> To start you are posting in html and this is a text only group. Lots of
> folks don't use microcrap and your post isn't readable. Lots of servers
> cut them so they don't even make it or just the header with no body
> shows.
>
> Meanwhile, you sound like you are talking about the drag link ball joint
> that goes to the passenger wheel side from the steering. That is one
> piece.
>
> If the taper is gone, it can be an expensive fix to replace the whole
> steering knuckle or get a machine shop to fill and cut you a new taper
> in the hole once you get it off.
>
> I have a pair of needle nose vise grips I use for spinning ones. I get
> them between the ball and the knuckle arm on the bottom side and pray or
> cuss. I also soak the crap out of the castle nut with penetrating oil.
>
> I still have to cut off 'Way' too many of them.....
>
> The good news is it doesn't affect the front end alignment, only the
> steering wheel adjustment. The sleeve at the top end turns to adjust
> the angle of the steering wheel, so it is wise or just easier to mark it
> or measure it. It can be a bit of a pain getting the wheel back
> straight. If it isn't straight now, now's the time to fix it. ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
