L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Same as yours. I don't know why your Jeep doesn't have them, maybe
they fired the engineers for using the Quadratrac.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

JimG wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> What is your definition of "constant velocity u-joints"? I always thought
> they consisted of a total of three u-joints per shaft, two of which are
> right close together and encapsulated. My Civilian Jeep has simple drive
> shafts - two u-joints per shaft, one on each end.
>
> --
> JimG
> 80' CJ-7 258 CID
> 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
> D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA
> 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R
> Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
> Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries
> .
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FE22315.DF5FDBCC@***.net...
> > The Original Poster, is working with a Civilian Jeep, most likely
> > it already has fixed yokes and constant velocity universal joints,
> > stock, and with a drill press he can clock the Real geared Dana 300:
> > http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/xfer/tindex/
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Morrissey wrote:
> > >
> > > Raise the Tcase and add a CV driveshaft -- or even better, combine it
> with a
> > > fixed yoke and get an even longer drive shaft.
> > >
> > > Just finished mine on Tuesday evening!
> > >
> > > BillM

cj573cj5

Don't get too crazy shimming. You can go up to like 7 degrees. I
don't know the exact angle but this information should be available
on-line somewhere. It would probably also depend on which type of
axle it is (Dana 30, Dana 44, AMC 20) The danger is tilting to the
point the oil will not travel properly to the front pinion bearing and
seal causing them to fail prematurely.


Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3FE2203B.55904AF3@sympatico.ca>...
> That is to get the angles on the driveshaft u-joints correct.
>
> You also can get 1" taller engine mounts to do the same job. The engine
> and tranny pivot on the tranny mount dropping the end of the t-case down
> so the angle comes back.
>
> The other option is to get a CV axle and tilt the rear end up with shims
> making it straight with the driveshaft.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Fletcher wrote:
> >
> > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible, even do
> > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is the
> > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> > well?

cj573cj5

Don't get too crazy shimming. You can go up to like 7 degrees. I
don't know the exact angle but this information should be available
on-line somewhere. It would probably also depend on which type of
axle it is (Dana 30, Dana 44, AMC 20) The danger is tilting to the
point the oil will not travel properly to the front pinion bearing and
seal causing them to fail prematurely.


Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3FE2203B.55904AF3@sympatico.ca>...
> That is to get the angles on the driveshaft u-joints correct.
>
> You also can get 1" taller engine mounts to do the same job. The engine
> and tranny pivot on the tranny mount dropping the end of the t-case down
> so the angle comes back.
>
> The other option is to get a CV axle and tilt the rear end up with shims
> making it straight with the driveshaft.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Fletcher wrote:
> >
> > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible, even do
> > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is the
> > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> > well?

cj573cj5

Don't get too crazy shimming. You can go up to like 7 degrees. I
don't know the exact angle but this information should be available
on-line somewhere. It would probably also depend on which type of
axle it is (Dana 30, Dana 44, AMC 20) The danger is tilting to the
point the oil will not travel properly to the front pinion bearing and
seal causing them to fail prematurely.


Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3FE2203B.55904AF3@sympatico.ca>...
> That is to get the angles on the driveshaft u-joints correct.
>
> You also can get 1" taller engine mounts to do the same job. The engine
> and tranny pivot on the tranny mount dropping the end of the t-case down
> so the angle comes back.
>
> The other option is to get a CV axle and tilt the rear end up with shims
> making it straight with the driveshaft.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Fletcher wrote:
> >
> > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible, even do
> > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is the
> > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> > well?

JimG

Good point! What we do after an SOA is park down (for the rear) a steep
hill and then top off.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R


"cj573cj5" <cj573cj5@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:6f04a5f7.0312191103.6ae20a62@posting.google.c om...
> Don't get too crazy shimming. You can go up to like 7 degrees. I
> don't know the exact angle but this information should be available
> on-line somewhere. It would probably also depend on which type of
> axle it is (Dana 30, Dana 44, AMC 20) The danger is tilting to the
> point the oil will not travel properly to the front pinion bearing and
> seal causing them to fail prematurely.
>
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:<3FE2203B.55904AF3@sympatico.ca>...
> > That is to get the angles on the driveshaft u-joints correct.
> >
> > You also can get 1" taller engine mounts to do the same job. The engine
> > and tranny pivot on the tranny mount dropping the end of the t-case down
> > so the angle comes back.
> >
> > The other option is to get a CV axle and tilt the rear end up with shims
> > making it straight with the driveshaft.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fletcher wrote:
> > >
> > > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to
make
> > > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of
doing
> > > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
even do
> > > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
the
> > > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will
a
> > > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length
as
> > > well?

JimG

Good point! What we do after an SOA is park down (for the rear) a steep
hill and then top off.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R


"cj573cj5" <cj573cj5@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:6f04a5f7.0312191103.6ae20a62@posting.google.c om...
> Don't get too crazy shimming. You can go up to like 7 degrees. I
> don't know the exact angle but this information should be available
> on-line somewhere. It would probably also depend on which type of
> axle it is (Dana 30, Dana 44, AMC 20) The danger is tilting to the
> point the oil will not travel properly to the front pinion bearing and
> seal causing them to fail prematurely.
>
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:<3FE2203B.55904AF3@sympatico.ca>...
> > That is to get the angles on the driveshaft u-joints correct.
> >
> > You also can get 1" taller engine mounts to do the same job. The engine
> > and tranny pivot on the tranny mount dropping the end of the t-case down
> > so the angle comes back.
> >
> > The other option is to get a CV axle and tilt the rear end up with shims
> > making it straight with the driveshaft.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fletcher wrote:
> > >
> > > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to
make
> > > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of
doing
> > > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
even do
> > > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
the
> > > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will
a
> > > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length
as
> > > well?

JimG

Good point! What we do after an SOA is park down (for the rear) a steep
hill and then top off.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7, 258 CID
35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines
4.56 D30-D44 SOA
D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn 8000i w/dual batteries
LockRight F&R


"cj573cj5" <cj573cj5@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:6f04a5f7.0312191103.6ae20a62@posting.google.c om...
> Don't get too crazy shimming. You can go up to like 7 degrees. I
> don't know the exact angle but this information should be available
> on-line somewhere. It would probably also depend on which type of
> axle it is (Dana 30, Dana 44, AMC 20) The danger is tilting to the
> point the oil will not travel properly to the front pinion bearing and
> seal causing them to fail prematurely.
>
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:<3FE2203B.55904AF3@sympatico.ca>...
> > That is to get the angles on the driveshaft u-joints correct.
> >
> > You also can get 1" taller engine mounts to do the same job. The engine
> > and tranny pivot on the tranny mount dropping the end of the t-case down
> > so the angle comes back.
> >
> > The other option is to get a CV axle and tilt the rear end up with shims
> > making it straight with the driveshaft.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Fletcher wrote:
> > >
> > > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to
make
> > > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of
doing
> > > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
even do
> > > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
the
> > > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will
a
> > > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length
as
> > > well?

CRWLR

The goal here is not to aim the yokes (diff yoke and tcase yoke) at each
other, the goal is to make the pinion shaft and the tcase output shaft
parallel to each other.

The measurements to take are to determine what the angoe is of the output
shaft, then to set the diff so that the pinion shaft is parallel. If you
raise or lower the tcase, then the angle of the output shaft will change,
and this can affect the position of the diff.

There is also a set distance that the two centerlines (the tcase output
shaft centerline and the pinion shaft centerline) must be within. For
example (and this is probably a bad example) the centerlines must be less
than 1" apart. I don't know what the actual distance is, but I seem to
recall that 0.25" or less sounds about right. (somebody please jump in here
and help me out.)

The AMC20 that you already have has a low pinion, and if the new D44 is a
high pinion, then you can raise the tcase as much as you want because the
angles won't be an issue. You will still need to set the centerlines
parallel, but the angles will not be so sharp where the driveshaft connects
to the yokes.





"Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
news:lQpEb.6418$lI4.5332@fe06.private.usenetserver .com...
> Ok this brings me to a second question. I recently picked up a dana 44
from
> a scout that I need to gear and lock up before I install. The spring
> perches are not quite right so they need to be moved anyways. What if I
> weld the perches so that the axle is slightly rotated in an attempt to
help
> straighten the driveline angles. Any issues with this?
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vu47cl6lbqrf69@corp.supernews.com...
> > One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
> > angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase,
you
> > will straighten out one of the angles.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> > > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to
make
> > > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of
doing
> > > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
> even
> > do
> > > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
> the
> > > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will
a
> > > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length
as
> > > well?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>

CRWLR

The goal here is not to aim the yokes (diff yoke and tcase yoke) at each
other, the goal is to make the pinion shaft and the tcase output shaft
parallel to each other.

The measurements to take are to determine what the angoe is of the output
shaft, then to set the diff so that the pinion shaft is parallel. If you
raise or lower the tcase, then the angle of the output shaft will change,
and this can affect the position of the diff.

There is also a set distance that the two centerlines (the tcase output
shaft centerline and the pinion shaft centerline) must be within. For
example (and this is probably a bad example) the centerlines must be less
than 1" apart. I don't know what the actual distance is, but I seem to
recall that 0.25" or less sounds about right. (somebody please jump in here
and help me out.)

The AMC20 that you already have has a low pinion, and if the new D44 is a
high pinion, then you can raise the tcase as much as you want because the
angles won't be an issue. You will still need to set the centerlines
parallel, but the angles will not be so sharp where the driveshaft connects
to the yokes.





"Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
news:lQpEb.6418$lI4.5332@fe06.private.usenetserver .com...
> Ok this brings me to a second question. I recently picked up a dana 44
from
> a scout that I need to gear and lock up before I install. The spring
> perches are not quite right so they need to be moved anyways. What if I
> weld the perches so that the axle is slightly rotated in an attempt to
help
> straighten the driveline angles. Any issues with this?
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vu47cl6lbqrf69@corp.supernews.com...
> > One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
> > angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase,
you
> > will straighten out one of the angles.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> > > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to
make
> > > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of
doing
> > > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
> even
> > do
> > > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
> the
> > > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will
a
> > > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length
as
> > > well?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>

CRWLR

The goal here is not to aim the yokes (diff yoke and tcase yoke) at each
other, the goal is to make the pinion shaft and the tcase output shaft
parallel to each other.

The measurements to take are to determine what the angoe is of the output
shaft, then to set the diff so that the pinion shaft is parallel. If you
raise or lower the tcase, then the angle of the output shaft will change,
and this can affect the position of the diff.

There is also a set distance that the two centerlines (the tcase output
shaft centerline and the pinion shaft centerline) must be within. For
example (and this is probably a bad example) the centerlines must be less
than 1" apart. I don't know what the actual distance is, but I seem to
recall that 0.25" or less sounds about right. (somebody please jump in here
and help me out.)

The AMC20 that you already have has a low pinion, and if the new D44 is a
high pinion, then you can raise the tcase as much as you want because the
angles won't be an issue. You will still need to set the centerlines
parallel, but the angles will not be so sharp where the driveshaft connects
to the yokes.





"Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
news:lQpEb.6418$lI4.5332@fe06.private.usenetserver .com...
> Ok this brings me to a second question. I recently picked up a dana 44
from
> a scout that I need to gear and lock up before I install. The spring
> perches are not quite right so they need to be moved anyways. What if I
> weld the perches so that the axle is slightly rotated in an attempt to
help
> straighten the driveline angles. Any issues with this?
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vu47cl6lbqrf69@corp.supernews.com...
> > One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
> > angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase,
you
> > will straighten out one of the angles.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
> > news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> > > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to
make
> > > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of
doing
> > > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
> even
> > do
> > > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
> the
> > > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will
a
> > > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length
as
> > > well?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>