t-case lower question
 

When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible, even do
a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is the
best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
well?

Re: t-case lower question
 

One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase, you
will straighten out one of the angles.




"Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible, even
do
> a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is the
> best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> well?
>
>
>

Re: t-case lower question
 

One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase, you
will straighten out one of the angles.




"Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible, even
do
> a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is the
> best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> well?
>
>
>

Re: t-case lower question
 

One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase, you
will straighten out one of the angles.




"Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible, even
do
> a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is the
> best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> well?
>
>
>

Re: t-case lower question
 

Raise the Tcase and add a CV driveshaft -- or even better, combine it with a
fixed yoke and get an even longer drive shaft.

Just finished mine on Tuesday evening!

BillM
"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vu47cl6lbqrf69@corp.supernews.com...
> One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
> angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase, you
> will straighten out one of the angles.
>
>
>
>
> "Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
> news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
even
> do
> > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
the
> > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> > well?
> >
> >
> >
>

Re: t-case lower question
 

Raise the Tcase and add a CV driveshaft -- or even better, combine it with a
fixed yoke and get an even longer drive shaft.

Just finished mine on Tuesday evening!

BillM
"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vu47cl6lbqrf69@corp.supernews.com...
> One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
> angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase, you
> will straighten out one of the angles.
>
>
>
>
> "Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
> news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
even
> do
> > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
the
> > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> > well?
> >
> >
> >
>

Re: t-case lower question
 

Raise the Tcase and add a CV driveshaft -- or even better, combine it with a
fixed yoke and get an even longer drive shaft.

Just finished mine on Tuesday evening!

BillM
"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vu47cl6lbqrf69@corp.supernews.com...
> One of the problems is not so much the length of the driveline, but the
> angles that it connects to the tcase and diff. If you drop the tcase, you
> will straighten out one of the angles.
>
>
>
>
> "Fletcher" <no@mail.com> wrote in message
> news:cPoEb.6285$8d2.1569@fe14.private.usenetserver .com...
> > When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> > everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> > replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> > this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible,
even
> do
> > a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is
the
> > best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> > clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> > well?
> >
> >
> >
>

Re: t-case lower question
 

That is to get the angles on the driveshaft u-joints correct.

You also can get 1" taller engine mounts to do the same job. The engine
and tranny pivot on the tranny mount dropping the end of the t-case down
so the angle comes back.

The other option is to get a CV axle and tilt the rear end up with shims
making it straight with the driveshaft.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Fletcher wrote:
>
> When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible, even do
> a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is the
> best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> well?

Re: t-case lower question
 

That is to get the angles on the driveshaft u-joints correct.

You also can get 1" taller engine mounts to do the same job. The engine
and tranny pivot on the tranny mount dropping the end of the t-case down
so the angle comes back.

The other option is to get a CV axle and tilt the rear end up with shims
making it straight with the driveshaft.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Fletcher wrote:
>
> When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible, even do
> a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is the
> best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> well?

Re: t-case lower question
 

That is to get the angles on the driveshaft u-joints correct.

You also can get 1" taller engine mounts to do the same job. The engine
and tranny pivot on the tranny mount dropping the end of the t-case down
so the angle comes back.

The other option is to get a CV axle and tilt the rear end up with shims
making it straight with the driveshaft.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Fletcher wrote:
>
> When you install a 4" lift on a CJ, you then drop your t-case 1" to make
> everything work right? What is the point of that? Is that to prevent
> replacing the driveline as well? What would be the "right" way of doing
> this? I like the idea of tucking the T-case up as high as possible, even do
> a clocking kit, so a t-case drop is a move in the wring direction. Is the
> best thing to do not drop the t-case and get a longer driveline? will a
> clocking kit later down the road effect the optimal driveline length as
> well?