Gerald G. McGeorge

Most points have already been covered here, but another thought, is the
steering box mount loose or cracked anywhere?

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vqgdvp7tuonfd6@corp.supernews.com...
> Your ball joints and/or tie rods are not nearly as healthy as you like to
> think.
>
> Your wobble is coming from the steering or front suspension. I would be
> looking at the steering linkage next since you seem to have new suspension
> components. Having said that, the suspenison parts (bushings mostly) can
be
> part of your problem. The swaybar bushings are probably not playing a part
> in your problem because many of us with CJ that have lift kits don't even
> have a swaybar. The TSLs could be a problem, but if they were a problem,
> then swapping them around should change the problem. Put the front tires
on
> the back, and vice versa. Or, swap you tires for an hour or two with a
buddy
> that has different tires on a CJ or other model with a 5 on 5.5 bolt
> pattern. You don't really care that the swappee's tires are too big or too
> small, you only need them on long enough to drive at the problem speed to
> see if the problem repeats or goes away.
>
>
>
> <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:7jVpb.34583$3N5.25858@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > Okay, I've posted before, but now I've had the front two tires
rebalanced
> > and the bearings tightened up.
> >
> > New rear drive shaft U joints
> > No play in steering
> > Ball joints are fine
> > New steering stabilizer
> > New 2.5 skyjacker suspension with shocks/bushings (has 2 inch body lift
> new)
> > New shackles (stock) and bushings
> > New 33x13.5 superswamper TSLs on New 10x15 wheels (front 2 just
> rebalanced)
> > Tightened up front bearings.
> >
> > Motor/tranny mounts are shot.
> > Swaybar bushings are shot
> >
> > Why the hell am I still getting this shimmy/shake between 40-50 mph???
The
> > thing wanders like a mother too but I'm figuring it's the bias ply
> > tires...not to mention the width. Any suggestions? Are my axles bent?
> > Thanks!
> > Allen
> > 83 CJ7
> >
> >
> >
>

Gerald G. McGeorge

Most points have already been covered here, but another thought, is the
steering box mount loose or cracked anywhere?

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vqgdvp7tuonfd6@corp.supernews.com...
> Your ball joints and/or tie rods are not nearly as healthy as you like to
> think.
>
> Your wobble is coming from the steering or front suspension. I would be
> looking at the steering linkage next since you seem to have new suspension
> components. Having said that, the suspenison parts (bushings mostly) can
be
> part of your problem. The swaybar bushings are probably not playing a part
> in your problem because many of us with CJ that have lift kits don't even
> have a swaybar. The TSLs could be a problem, but if they were a problem,
> then swapping them around should change the problem. Put the front tires
on
> the back, and vice versa. Or, swap you tires for an hour or two with a
buddy
> that has different tires on a CJ or other model with a 5 on 5.5 bolt
> pattern. You don't really care that the swappee's tires are too big or too
> small, you only need them on long enough to drive at the problem speed to
> see if the problem repeats or goes away.
>
>
>
> <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:7jVpb.34583$3N5.25858@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > Okay, I've posted before, but now I've had the front two tires
rebalanced
> > and the bearings tightened up.
> >
> > New rear drive shaft U joints
> > No play in steering
> > Ball joints are fine
> > New steering stabilizer
> > New 2.5 skyjacker suspension with shocks/bushings (has 2 inch body lift
> new)
> > New shackles (stock) and bushings
> > New 33x13.5 superswamper TSLs on New 10x15 wheels (front 2 just
> rebalanced)
> > Tightened up front bearings.
> >
> > Motor/tranny mounts are shot.
> > Swaybar bushings are shot
> >
> > Why the hell am I still getting this shimmy/shake between 40-50 mph???
The
> > thing wanders like a mother too but I'm figuring it's the bias ply
> > tires...not to mention the width. Any suggestions? Are my axles bent?
> > Thanks!
> > Allen
> > 83 CJ7
> >
> >
> >
>

CRWLR

It isn't all that hard from a technical stand point, but it can be a real
knuckle-buster.

You can test the ball joints by lifting the tire(s) off the ground and
grabbing them at the 6:00 and 12:00 position and pushing the top and pulling
the bottom, and vice versa. If the tire is loose, the joints are toast. One
of the joints (top or bottom) is the weight bearing joint, and this is the
one that generally needs to be replaced.

To check the tie rod ends, bind a tire against the curb, then have a helper
gently rock the steering wheel from side to side while you watch the linkage
move around. If you don't see much play in the linkage, turn the Jeep around
and bind the other tire against the curb and try again. One of the frint
tires is connected directly to the steering box, the other tire is connected
to the first. The tie rods can fail between the steering box and the first
tire, or between the two tires. Depending upon which tie rod(s) have failed,
the test might not show when one tire is against the curb, but will show
when the other tire is against the curb.





<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:KoXpb.1616$Fd2.865@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> Could be right CRWLR, I mean I don't have play in the wheel, and there is
no
> visible slop in the ball joints but under load and bumps etc...they may do
> other things. My next step is most likely ball joints/tie rod ends and a
> good alignment. How difficult is it to replace that stuff anyway?
> Allen
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vqgdvp7tuonfd6@corp.supernews.com...
> > Your ball joints and/or tie rods are not nearly as healthy as you like
to
> > think.
> >
> > Your wobble is coming from the steering or front suspension. I would be
> > looking at the steering linkage next since you seem to have new
suspension
> > components. Having said that, the suspenison parts (bushings mostly) can
> be
> > part of your problem. The swaybar bushings are probably not playing a
part
> > in your problem because many of us with CJ that have lift kits don't
even
> > have a swaybar. The TSLs could be a problem, but if they were a problem,
> > then swapping them around should change the problem. Put the front tires
> on
> > the back, and vice versa. Or, swap you tires for an hour or two with a
> buddy
> > that has different tires on a CJ or other model with a 5 on 5.5 bolt
> > pattern. You don't really care that the swappee's tires are too big or
too
> > small, you only need them on long enough to drive at the problem speed
to
> > see if the problem repeats or goes away.
> >
> >
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:7jVpb.34583$3N5.25858@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > > Okay, I've posted before, but now I've had the front two tires
> rebalanced
> > > and the bearings tightened up.
> > >
> > > New rear drive shaft U joints
> > > No play in steering
> > > Ball joints are fine
> > > New steering stabilizer
> > > New 2.5 skyjacker suspension with shocks/bushings (has 2 inch body
lift
> > new)
> > > New shackles (stock) and bushings
> > > New 33x13.5 superswamper TSLs on New 10x15 wheels (front 2 just
> > rebalanced)
> > > Tightened up front bearings.
> > >
> > > Motor/tranny mounts are shot.
> > > Swaybar bushings are shot
> > >
> > > Why the hell am I still getting this shimmy/shake between 40-50 mph???
> The
> > > thing wanders like a mother too but I'm figuring it's the bias ply
> > > tires...not to mention the width. Any suggestions? Are my axles bent?
> > > Thanks!
> > > Allen
> > > 83 CJ7
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

CRWLR

It isn't all that hard from a technical stand point, but it can be a real
knuckle-buster.

You can test the ball joints by lifting the tire(s) off the ground and
grabbing them at the 6:00 and 12:00 position and pushing the top and pulling
the bottom, and vice versa. If the tire is loose, the joints are toast. One
of the joints (top or bottom) is the weight bearing joint, and this is the
one that generally needs to be replaced.

To check the tie rod ends, bind a tire against the curb, then have a helper
gently rock the steering wheel from side to side while you watch the linkage
move around. If you don't see much play in the linkage, turn the Jeep around
and bind the other tire against the curb and try again. One of the frint
tires is connected directly to the steering box, the other tire is connected
to the first. The tie rods can fail between the steering box and the first
tire, or between the two tires. Depending upon which tie rod(s) have failed,
the test might not show when one tire is against the curb, but will show
when the other tire is against the curb.





<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:KoXpb.1616$Fd2.865@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> Could be right CRWLR, I mean I don't have play in the wheel, and there is
no
> visible slop in the ball joints but under load and bumps etc...they may do
> other things. My next step is most likely ball joints/tie rod ends and a
> good alignment. How difficult is it to replace that stuff anyway?
> Allen
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vqgdvp7tuonfd6@corp.supernews.com...
> > Your ball joints and/or tie rods are not nearly as healthy as you like
to
> > think.
> >
> > Your wobble is coming from the steering or front suspension. I would be
> > looking at the steering linkage next since you seem to have new
suspension
> > components. Having said that, the suspenison parts (bushings mostly) can
> be
> > part of your problem. The swaybar bushings are probably not playing a
part
> > in your problem because many of us with CJ that have lift kits don't
even
> > have a swaybar. The TSLs could be a problem, but if they were a problem,
> > then swapping them around should change the problem. Put the front tires
> on
> > the back, and vice versa. Or, swap you tires for an hour or two with a
> buddy
> > that has different tires on a CJ or other model with a 5 on 5.5 bolt
> > pattern. You don't really care that the swappee's tires are too big or
too
> > small, you only need them on long enough to drive at the problem speed
to
> > see if the problem repeats or goes away.
> >
> >
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:7jVpb.34583$3N5.25858@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > > Okay, I've posted before, but now I've had the front two tires
> rebalanced
> > > and the bearings tightened up.
> > >
> > > New rear drive shaft U joints
> > > No play in steering
> > > Ball joints are fine
> > > New steering stabilizer
> > > New 2.5 skyjacker suspension with shocks/bushings (has 2 inch body
lift
> > new)
> > > New shackles (stock) and bushings
> > > New 33x13.5 superswamper TSLs on New 10x15 wheels (front 2 just
> > rebalanced)
> > > Tightened up front bearings.
> > >
> > > Motor/tranny mounts are shot.
> > > Swaybar bushings are shot
> > >
> > > Why the hell am I still getting this shimmy/shake between 40-50 mph???
> The
> > > thing wanders like a mother too but I'm figuring it's the bias ply
> > > tires...not to mention the width. Any suggestions? Are my axles bent?
> > > Thanks!
> > > Allen
> > > 83 CJ7
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

CRWLR

It isn't all that hard from a technical stand point, but it can be a real
knuckle-buster.

You can test the ball joints by lifting the tire(s) off the ground and
grabbing them at the 6:00 and 12:00 position and pushing the top and pulling
the bottom, and vice versa. If the tire is loose, the joints are toast. One
of the joints (top or bottom) is the weight bearing joint, and this is the
one that generally needs to be replaced.

To check the tie rod ends, bind a tire against the curb, then have a helper
gently rock the steering wheel from side to side while you watch the linkage
move around. If you don't see much play in the linkage, turn the Jeep around
and bind the other tire against the curb and try again. One of the frint
tires is connected directly to the steering box, the other tire is connected
to the first. The tie rods can fail between the steering box and the first
tire, or between the two tires. Depending upon which tie rod(s) have failed,
the test might not show when one tire is against the curb, but will show
when the other tire is against the curb.





<ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
news:KoXpb.1616$Fd2.865@fe1.columbus.rr.com...
> Could be right CRWLR, I mean I don't have play in the wheel, and there is
no
> visible slop in the ball joints but under load and bumps etc...they may do
> other things. My next step is most likely ball joints/tie rod ends and a
> good alignment. How difficult is it to replace that stuff anyway?
> Allen
>
>
> "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vqgdvp7tuonfd6@corp.supernews.com...
> > Your ball joints and/or tie rods are not nearly as healthy as you like
to
> > think.
> >
> > Your wobble is coming from the steering or front suspension. I would be
> > looking at the steering linkage next since you seem to have new
suspension
> > components. Having said that, the suspenison parts (bushings mostly) can
> be
> > part of your problem. The swaybar bushings are probably not playing a
part
> > in your problem because many of us with CJ that have lift kits don't
even
> > have a swaybar. The TSLs could be a problem, but if they were a problem,
> > then swapping them around should change the problem. Put the front tires
> on
> > the back, and vice versa. Or, swap you tires for an hour or two with a
> buddy
> > that has different tires on a CJ or other model with a 5 on 5.5 bolt
> > pattern. You don't really care that the swappee's tires are too big or
too
> > small, you only need them on long enough to drive at the problem speed
to
> > see if the problem repeats or goes away.
> >
> >
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:7jVpb.34583$3N5.25858@fe3.columbus.rr.com...
> > > Okay, I've posted before, but now I've had the front two tires
> rebalanced
> > > and the bearings tightened up.
> > >
> > > New rear drive shaft U joints
> > > No play in steering
> > > Ball joints are fine
> > > New steering stabilizer
> > > New 2.5 skyjacker suspension with shocks/bushings (has 2 inch body
lift
> > new)
> > > New shackles (stock) and bushings
> > > New 33x13.5 superswamper TSLs on New 10x15 wheels (front 2 just
> > rebalanced)
> > > Tightened up front bearings.
> > >
> > > Motor/tranny mounts are shot.
> > > Swaybar bushings are shot
> > >
> > > Why the hell am I still getting this shimmy/shake between 40-50 mph???
> The
> > > thing wanders like a mother too but I'm figuring it's the bias ply
> > > tires...not to mention the width. Any suggestions? Are my axles bent?
> > > Thanks!
> > > Allen
> > > 83 CJ7
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

CRWLR

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FA84237.8A8B5988@sympatico.ca...
> You have a u-joint in the steering column just in front of the firewall,
> check that.
>
This is a good one that I forgot about. You can see this when you have
either tire against the curb.


> Motor/tranny mounts bad can set up a harmonic shake you feel in the
> steering too.
>
I wouldn't have thought of this. Infact, I came close to telling him to
discount this. I think I see where youare coming from on this one, but
wouldn't the vibration be at a higher frequency than a steering anomoly?


> So can a shot rad fan clutch. When mine went bad I thought I was going
> to lose a tire or something it shook so bad.
>
I would have thought this would be a visible problem that could be seen at
idle. I'm thinking of the fan being off center or something along those
lines, and the fan would generate a high frequency vibration as well. I tend
to forget about what the fan can do because I haven't got a fan clutch. My
fan is fixed to the pulley.


> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

CRWLR

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FA84237.8A8B5988@sympatico.ca...
> You have a u-joint in the steering column just in front of the firewall,
> check that.
>
This is a good one that I forgot about. You can see this when you have
either tire against the curb.


> Motor/tranny mounts bad can set up a harmonic shake you feel in the
> steering too.
>
I wouldn't have thought of this. Infact, I came close to telling him to
discount this. I think I see where youare coming from on this one, but
wouldn't the vibration be at a higher frequency than a steering anomoly?


> So can a shot rad fan clutch. When mine went bad I thought I was going
> to lose a tire or something it shook so bad.
>
I would have thought this would be a visible problem that could be seen at
idle. I'm thinking of the fan being off center or something along those
lines, and the fan would generate a high frequency vibration as well. I tend
to forget about what the fan can do because I haven't got a fan clutch. My
fan is fixed to the pulley.


> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

CRWLR

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FA84237.8A8B5988@sympatico.ca...
> You have a u-joint in the steering column just in front of the firewall,
> check that.
>
This is a good one that I forgot about. You can see this when you have
either tire against the curb.


> Motor/tranny mounts bad can set up a harmonic shake you feel in the
> steering too.
>
I wouldn't have thought of this. Infact, I came close to telling him to
discount this. I think I see where youare coming from on this one, but
wouldn't the vibration be at a higher frequency than a steering anomoly?


> So can a shot rad fan clutch. When mine went bad I thought I was going
> to lose a tire or something it shook so bad.
>
I would have thought this would be a visible problem that could be seen at
idle. I'm thinking of the fan being off center or something along those
lines, and the fan would generate a high frequency vibration as well. I tend
to forget about what the fan can do because I haven't got a fan clutch. My
fan is fixed to the pulley.


> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Guest

It's funny but there is no shake in the wheel at all,..it's all in the body.
The wheel is as steady as can be.
I don't have a fan clutch and the fan is sturdy (to the water
pump...bearings all good). I think I'm going to try and replace the ball
joints/tie rods myself (this should be fun....never done it) then take it in
for a good alignment.
Allen





"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vqgibmmf4qh8bd@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3FA84237.8A8B5988@sympatico.ca...
> > You have a u-joint in the steering column just in front of the firewall,
> > check that.
> >
> This is a good one that I forgot about. You can see this when you have
> either tire against the curb.
>
>
> > Motor/tranny mounts bad can set up a harmonic shake you feel in the
> > steering too.
> >
> I wouldn't have thought of this. Infact, I came close to telling him to
> discount this. I think I see where youare coming from on this one, but
> wouldn't the vibration be at a higher frequency than a steering anomoly?
>
>
> > So can a shot rad fan clutch. When mine went bad I thought I was going
> > to lose a tire or something it shook so bad.
> >
> I would have thought this would be a visible problem that could be seen at
> idle. I'm thinking of the fan being off center or something along those
> lines, and the fan would generate a high frequency vibration as well. I
tend
> to forget about what the fan can do because I haven't got a fan clutch. My
> fan is fixed to the pulley.
>
>
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

Guest

It's funny but there is no shake in the wheel at all,..it's all in the body.
The wheel is as steady as can be.
I don't have a fan clutch and the fan is sturdy (to the water
pump...bearings all good). I think I'm going to try and replace the ball
joints/tie rods myself (this should be fun....never done it) then take it in
for a good alignment.
Allen





"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vqgibmmf4qh8bd@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:3FA84237.8A8B5988@sympatico.ca...
> > You have a u-joint in the steering column just in front of the firewall,
> > check that.
> >
> This is a good one that I forgot about. You can see this when you have
> either tire against the curb.
>
>
> > Motor/tranny mounts bad can set up a harmonic shake you feel in the
> > steering too.
> >
> I wouldn't have thought of this. Infact, I came close to telling him to
> discount this. I think I see where youare coming from on this one, but
> wouldn't the vibration be at a higher frequency than a steering anomoly?
>
>
> > So can a shot rad fan clutch. When mine went bad I thought I was going
> > to lose a tire or something it shook so bad.
> >
> I would have thought this would be a visible problem that could be seen at
> idle. I'm thinking of the fan being off center or something along those
> lines, and the fan would generate a high frequency vibration as well. I
tend
> to forget about what the fan can do because I haven't got a fan clutch. My
> fan is fixed to the pulley.
>
>
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>