On Mar 1, 6:30 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
wrote:
> 90 to 110:http://www.----------.com/lugnutor.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
Thank you Bill

This is not the first time the Haynes manual has given me bad
information. I have 3 XJs with alloy wheels so I don't like to take a
chance on wheels coming loose.

I don't like to pass on bad information. Mike is right, I only use a
drop of fluid film on the threads so the lugnuts spin on easily and
come off easily. But it works for me and I would not want anyone to
think this means that if a little is good then soaking the threads is
better. This could be really dangerous. I do it but I shouldn't
recommend it for others

Merrill


> mailto:LW------...@aol.com
>
> "merrill" <merr...@can.rogers.com> wrote in message
>
> > I have always put a drop on the threads and tightened to 75 ft/lb as
> > per the Haynes manual. I didn't specify this number because it could
> > be wrong. But wet or dry I have always retourqued after a few days of
> > driving and haven't had a problem yet.
>
> > Merrill
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

 

I have used anti-seize lubricant but I wouldn't recommend it to others
either. ;^)

If clean dry threads are good, and wet lubricated threads are bad, then how
about rusty threads? You are not going to get the same torque values from
rust, that you get from dry steel.

An old farmer I did some contract work for in 1975 recommended water on
tractor tire lugs. "It's like glue when it dries to rust."

Earle

"merrill" <merrill@can.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:1172802024.661501.314110@z35g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> On Mar 1, 6:30 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
> wrote:
> > 90 to 110:http://www.----------.com/lugnutor.jpg
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> Thank you Bill
>
> This is not the first time the Haynes manual has given me bad
> information. I have 3 XJs with alloy wheels so I don't like to take a
> chance on wheels coming loose.
>
> I don't like to pass on bad information. Mike is right, I only use a
> drop of fluid film on the threads so the lugnuts spin on easily and
> come off easily. But it works for me and I would not want anyone to
> think this means that if a little is good then soaking the threads is
> better. This could be really dangerous. I do it but I shouldn't
> recommend it for others
>
> Merrill
>
>
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.com
> >
> > "merrill" <merr...@can.rogers.com> wrote in message
> >
> > > I have always put a drop on the threads and tightened to 75 ft/lb as
> > > per the Haynes manual. I didn't specify this number because it could
> > > be wrong. But wet or dry I have always retourqued after a few days of
> > > driving and haven't had a problem yet.
> >
> > > Merrill
> >
> > --
> > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
>

 

I have used anti-seize lubricant but I wouldn't recommend it to others
either. ;^)

If clean dry threads are good, and wet lubricated threads are bad, then how
about rusty threads? You are not going to get the same torque values from
rust, that you get from dry steel.

An old farmer I did some contract work for in 1975 recommended water on
tractor tire lugs. "It's like glue when it dries to rust."

Earle

"merrill" <merrill@can.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:1172802024.661501.314110@z35g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> On Mar 1, 6:30 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
> wrote:
> > 90 to 110:http://www.----------.com/lugnutor.jpg
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> Thank you Bill
>
> This is not the first time the Haynes manual has given me bad
> information. I have 3 XJs with alloy wheels so I don't like to take a
> chance on wheels coming loose.
>
> I don't like to pass on bad information. Mike is right, I only use a
> drop of fluid film on the threads so the lugnuts spin on easily and
> come off easily. But it works for me and I would not want anyone to
> think this means that if a little is good then soaking the threads is
> better. This could be really dangerous. I do it but I shouldn't
> recommend it for others
>
> Merrill
>
>
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.com
> >
> > "merrill" <merr...@can.rogers.com> wrote in message
> >
> > > I have always put a drop on the threads and tightened to 75 ft/lb as
> > > per the Haynes manual. I didn't specify this number because it could
> > > be wrong. But wet or dry I have always retourqued after a few days of
> > > driving and haven't had a problem yet.
> >
> > > Merrill
> >
> > --
> > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
>

 

I have used anti-seize lubricant but I wouldn't recommend it to others
either. ;^)

If clean dry threads are good, and wet lubricated threads are bad, then how
about rusty threads? You are not going to get the same torque values from
rust, that you get from dry steel.

An old farmer I did some contract work for in 1975 recommended water on
tractor tire lugs. "It's like glue when it dries to rust."

Earle

"merrill" <merrill@can.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:1172802024.661501.314110@z35g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> On Mar 1, 6:30 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) ------ III" <billhug...@***.net>
> wrote:
> > 90 to 110:http://www.----------.com/lugnutor.jpg
> > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> Thank you Bill
>
> This is not the first time the Haynes manual has given me bad
> information. I have 3 XJs with alloy wheels so I don't like to take a
> chance on wheels coming loose.
>
> I don't like to pass on bad information. Mike is right, I only use a
> drop of fluid film on the threads so the lugnuts spin on easily and
> come off easily. But it works for me and I would not want anyone to
> think this means that if a little is good then soaking the threads is
> better. This could be really dangerous. I do it but I shouldn't
> recommend it for others
>
> Merrill
>
>
> > mailto:LW------...@aol.com
> >
> > "merrill" <merr...@can.rogers.com> wrote in message
> >
> > > I have always put a drop on the threads and tightened to 75 ft/lb as
> > > per the Haynes manual. I didn't specify this number because it could
> > > be wrong. But wet or dry I have always retourqued after a few days of
> > > driving and haven't had a problem yet.
> >
> > > Merrill
> >
> > --
> > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com
>
>

 

Did you have any success? I'm curious to know.

I have used the "grabber" sockets several times and they work great. I
have also used the "grabber" screwdriver bits and I can highly
recommend them.

I replaced my lugnuts with the one piece lugnets, about $20CDN for a
set. On my DD I left one of the two piece lugnuts on each wheel. Not
as good as the locking lugnuts, but good enought to confuse anyone who
would attempt to liberate my alloy wheels.

Merrill


On Feb 28, 9:22 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks Mike and Jon,
> so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
> grab one tomorrow.
>
>
>
> Jon wrote:
> > Greg,
>
> > I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
> > become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
> > balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
> > supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
> > job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
> > have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
> > the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
> > cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
> > and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>
> > Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
> > chrome, you're in for 20.
>
> > Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>
> >http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>
> > If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
> > something similar.
>
> > Jon- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

 

Did you have any success? I'm curious to know.

I have used the "grabber" sockets several times and they work great. I
have also used the "grabber" screwdriver bits and I can highly
recommend them.

I replaced my lugnuts with the one piece lugnets, about $20CDN for a
set. On my DD I left one of the two piece lugnuts on each wheel. Not
as good as the locking lugnuts, but good enought to confuse anyone who
would attempt to liberate my alloy wheels.

Merrill


On Feb 28, 9:22 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks Mike and Jon,
> so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
> grab one tomorrow.
>
>
>
> Jon wrote:
> > Greg,
>
> > I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
> > become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
> > balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
> > supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
> > job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
> > have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
> > the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
> > cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
> > and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>
> > Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
> > chrome, you're in for 20.
>
> > Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>
> >http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>
> > If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
> > something similar.
>
> > Jon- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

 

Did you have any success? I'm curious to know.

I have used the "grabber" sockets several times and they work great. I
have also used the "grabber" screwdriver bits and I can highly
recommend them.

I replaced my lugnuts with the one piece lugnets, about $20CDN for a
set. On my DD I left one of the two piece lugnuts on each wheel. Not
as good as the locking lugnuts, but good enought to confuse anyone who
would attempt to liberate my alloy wheels.

Merrill


On Feb 28, 9:22 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks Mike and Jon,
> so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
> grab one tomorrow.
>
>
>
> Jon wrote:
> > Greg,
>
> > I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
> > become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
> > balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
> > supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
> > job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
> > have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
> > the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
> > cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
> > and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>
> > Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
> > chrome, you're in for 20.
>
> > Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>
> >http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>
> > If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
> > something similar.
>
> > Jon- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

 

> Did you have any success? I'm curious to know.

Sorry, haven't had a chance yet. I work in a restaurant, so I don't
usually have a favorable schedule for working on my Jeeps, but this week
has been especially rough. I'm hoping tomorrow afternoon will afford
some Jeep time, so I'll let everyone know.
I'm definitely upgrading to one piece lugnuts, these two-piece things
are the worst. I don't have to worry about wheel theft down here in
God's Country (the middle of nowhere).

merrill wrote:
> Did you have any success? I'm curious to know.
>
> I have used the "grabber" sockets several times and they work great. I
> have also used the "grabber" screwdriver bits and I can highly
> recommend them.
>
> I replaced my lugnuts with the one piece lugnets, about $20CDN for a
> set. On my DD I left one of the two piece lugnuts on each wheel. Not
> as good as the locking lugnuts, but good enought to confuse anyone who
> would attempt to liberate my alloy wheels.
>
> Merrill
>
>
> On Feb 28, 9:22 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
>> Thanks Mike and Jon,
>> so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
>> grab one tomorrow.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jon wrote:
>>> Greg,
>>> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
>>> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
>>> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
>>> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
>>> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
>>> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
>>> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
>>> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
>>> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>>> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
>>> chrome, you're in for 20.
>>> Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>>> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>>> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
>>> something similar.
>>> Jon- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>

 

> Did you have any success? I'm curious to know.

Sorry, haven't had a chance yet. I work in a restaurant, so I don't
usually have a favorable schedule for working on my Jeeps, but this week
has been especially rough. I'm hoping tomorrow afternoon will afford
some Jeep time, so I'll let everyone know.
I'm definitely upgrading to one piece lugnuts, these two-piece things
are the worst. I don't have to worry about wheel theft down here in
God's Country (the middle of nowhere).

merrill wrote:
> Did you have any success? I'm curious to know.
>
> I have used the "grabber" sockets several times and they work great. I
> have also used the "grabber" screwdriver bits and I can highly
> recommend them.
>
> I replaced my lugnuts with the one piece lugnets, about $20CDN for a
> set. On my DD I left one of the two piece lugnuts on each wheel. Not
> as good as the locking lugnuts, but good enought to confuse anyone who
> would attempt to liberate my alloy wheels.
>
> Merrill
>
>
> On Feb 28, 9:22 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
>> Thanks Mike and Jon,
>> so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
>> grab one tomorrow.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jon wrote:
>>> Greg,
>>> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
>>> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
>>> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
>>> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
>>> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
>>> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
>>> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
>>> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
>>> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>>> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
>>> chrome, you're in for 20.
>>> Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>>> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>>> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
>>> something similar.
>>> Jon- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>

 

> Did you have any success? I'm curious to know.

Sorry, haven't had a chance yet. I work in a restaurant, so I don't
usually have a favorable schedule for working on my Jeeps, but this week
has been especially rough. I'm hoping tomorrow afternoon will afford
some Jeep time, so I'll let everyone know.
I'm definitely upgrading to one piece lugnuts, these two-piece things
are the worst. I don't have to worry about wheel theft down here in
God's Country (the middle of nowhere).

merrill wrote:
> Did you have any success? I'm curious to know.
>
> I have used the "grabber" sockets several times and they work great. I
> have also used the "grabber" screwdriver bits and I can highly
> recommend them.
>
> I replaced my lugnuts with the one piece lugnets, about $20CDN for a
> set. On my DD I left one of the two piece lugnuts on each wheel. Not
> as good as the locking lugnuts, but good enought to confuse anyone who
> would attempt to liberate my alloy wheels.
>
> Merrill
>
>
> On Feb 28, 9:22 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
>> Thanks Mike and Jon,
>> so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
>> grab one tomorrow.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jon wrote:
>>> Greg,
>>> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
>>> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
>>> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
>>> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
>>> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
>>> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
>>> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
>>> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
>>> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>>> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
>>> chrome, you're in for 20.
>>> Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>>> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>>> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
>>> something similar.
>>> Jon- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>