The Merg

Thanks Mike and Jon,
so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
grab one tomorrow.

Jon wrote:
> Greg,
>
> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>
> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
> chrome, you're in for 20.
>
> Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>
> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>
> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
> something similar.
>
> Jon
>

The Merg

Thanks Mike and Jon,
so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
grab one tomorrow.

Jon wrote:
> Greg,
>
> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>
> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
> chrome, you're in for 20.
>
> Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>
> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>
> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
> something similar.
>
> Jon
>

The Merg

Thanks Mike and Jon,
so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
grab one tomorrow.

Jon wrote:
> Greg,
>
> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>
> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
> chrome, you're in for 20.
>
> Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>
> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>
> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
> something similar.
>
> Jon
>

Scootter

I had the same on my dakota, those cap on cover lugs are pieces sh*t. I
stripped 2 on one side and another on the other front tire.
What I used worked like a charm. Ol sears pulled thru. They have bolt
remover set for 20 bucks. Fit one on by tapping onto place and use a impact
driver on them in rev. Them more they turn the more they chew on them to
lock in place.

Sears item #00952060000 Mfr. model #52060
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...60000&vertical

"The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message
news:es5dcc$qkp$2@aioe.org...
> Thanks Mike and Jon,
> so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
> grab one tomorrow.
>
> Jon wrote:
>> Greg,
>>
>> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
>> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
>> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
>> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
>> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
>> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
>> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
>> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
>> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>>
>> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
>> chrome, you're in for 20.
>>
>> Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>>
>> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>>
>> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
>> something similar.
>>
>> Jon
>>

Scootter

I had the same on my dakota, those cap on cover lugs are pieces sh*t. I
stripped 2 on one side and another on the other front tire.
What I used worked like a charm. Ol sears pulled thru. They have bolt
remover set for 20 bucks. Fit one on by tapping onto place and use a impact
driver on them in rev. Them more they turn the more they chew on them to
lock in place.

Sears item #00952060000 Mfr. model #52060
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...60000&vertical

"The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message
news:es5dcc$qkp$2@aioe.org...
> Thanks Mike and Jon,
> so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
> grab one tomorrow.
>
> Jon wrote:
>> Greg,
>>
>> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
>> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
>> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
>> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
>> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
>> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
>> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
>> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
>> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>>
>> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
>> chrome, you're in for 20.
>>
>> Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>>
>> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>>
>> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
>> something similar.
>>
>> Jon
>>

Scootter

I had the same on my dakota, those cap on cover lugs are pieces sh*t. I
stripped 2 on one side and another on the other front tire.
What I used worked like a charm. Ol sears pulled thru. They have bolt
remover set for 20 bucks. Fit one on by tapping onto place and use a impact
driver on them in rev. Them more they turn the more they chew on them to
lock in place.

Sears item #00952060000 Mfr. model #52060
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...60000&vertical

"The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message
news:es5dcc$qkp$2@aioe.org...
> Thanks Mike and Jon,
> so these sockets work like a monkey wrench? That's pretty sweet. I'll
> grab one tomorrow.
>
> Jon wrote:
>> Greg,
>>
>> I've had better luck just grabbing the stainless cap (once it has
>> become loose) and pulling it off -- the same rust that loosens them
>> balloons the cap and then you think it's a 1/16 larger than it's
>> supposed to be....but if you're stuck, they sell a tool just for that
>> job (or security lugnuts without a key, etc.). Most auto parts stores
>> have 'em, they have an internally fluted end that grabs the outside of
>> the nut and does the job as you turn. Just make sure the stainless
>> cap is off; it fits in the wheel (some have two sizes on one socket);
>> and go to town -- hit it like you mean it.
>>
>> Don't forget to buy one-piece replacement nuts if you liked the
>> chrome, you're in for 20.
>>
>> Looks like this one, makes life easy:
>>
>> http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lt4200a.html
>>
>> If you're willing to pay, any shop will zip them off with this tool or
>> something similar.
>>
>> Jon
>>

paul

My wife's first XJ had the same friggin' thing happen - I feel your pain.

I used a torch to heat the lug nut and managed to get a good enough grip
with some vise grips to break it free -

good luck
paul


"The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message
news:es4n33$db9$1@aioe.org...
> OK, yeah they're stuck. The flats, not the threads, are the problem and
> have indeed rounded off. Although I guess the threads are the problem
> too, as they are stuck (not stripped :p )
> Thanks, Jeff - any suggestions?
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>> Are they stripped or stuck?
>>
>> Stripped means they simply spin, without getting (typically) tighter, but
>> I suppose they could spin without getting looser. In my experience, I'd
>> say the two are completely different problems.
>>
>> Your description looks to me as though the flats are rounding off. This
>> implies the nuts are frozen in place (stuck).
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:es4hvm$1u7$1@aioe.org...
>>> I know there have been plenty of bolt removal questions on here, but
>>> here goes.
>>> The lugnuts on the front of my XJ are @#$#ed. I was able to get 4 or 5
>>> of 10 off no problem, but the others wouldn't budge. These seem like
>>> really crappy lugs, not one piece but two pieces with the nut and a cap.
>>> I've sprayed PB and tapped on the nuts every night for about a week and
>>> a half.
>>> I've been alternating between a breaker bar and impact wrench, and
>>> basically I've succeeded in breaking off most of the caps and stripping
>>> the nuts. The nuts don't seem to be stripping like I'm used to, it's
>>> more like they deform, like they're made of lead.
>>>
>>> some crappy pictures here:
>>> http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ripped%20lugs/
>>>
>>> I don't have a welder, but I could probably take it somewhere if welding
>>> nuts on top is my best option.
>>> I'm afraid to drill because of the studs.
>>> How should I do this without damaging the studs?
>>

paul

My wife's first XJ had the same friggin' thing happen - I feel your pain.

I used a torch to heat the lug nut and managed to get a good enough grip
with some vise grips to break it free -

good luck
paul


"The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message
news:es4n33$db9$1@aioe.org...
> OK, yeah they're stuck. The flats, not the threads, are the problem and
> have indeed rounded off. Although I guess the threads are the problem
> too, as they are stuck (not stripped :p )
> Thanks, Jeff - any suggestions?
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>> Are they stripped or stuck?
>>
>> Stripped means they simply spin, without getting (typically) tighter, but
>> I suppose they could spin without getting looser. In my experience, I'd
>> say the two are completely different problems.
>>
>> Your description looks to me as though the flats are rounding off. This
>> implies the nuts are frozen in place (stuck).
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:es4hvm$1u7$1@aioe.org...
>>> I know there have been plenty of bolt removal questions on here, but
>>> here goes.
>>> The lugnuts on the front of my XJ are @#$#ed. I was able to get 4 or 5
>>> of 10 off no problem, but the others wouldn't budge. These seem like
>>> really crappy lugs, not one piece but two pieces with the nut and a cap.
>>> I've sprayed PB and tapped on the nuts every night for about a week and
>>> a half.
>>> I've been alternating between a breaker bar and impact wrench, and
>>> basically I've succeeded in breaking off most of the caps and stripping
>>> the nuts. The nuts don't seem to be stripping like I'm used to, it's
>>> more like they deform, like they're made of lead.
>>>
>>> some crappy pictures here:
>>> http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ripped%20lugs/
>>>
>>> I don't have a welder, but I could probably take it somewhere if welding
>>> nuts on top is my best option.
>>> I'm afraid to drill because of the studs.
>>> How should I do this without damaging the studs?
>>

paul

My wife's first XJ had the same friggin' thing happen - I feel your pain.

I used a torch to heat the lug nut and managed to get a good enough grip
with some vise grips to break it free -

good luck
paul


"The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message
news:es4n33$db9$1@aioe.org...
> OK, yeah they're stuck. The flats, not the threads, are the problem and
> have indeed rounded off. Although I guess the threads are the problem
> too, as they are stuck (not stripped :p )
> Thanks, Jeff - any suggestions?
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>> Are they stripped or stuck?
>>
>> Stripped means they simply spin, without getting (typically) tighter, but
>> I suppose they could spin without getting looser. In my experience, I'd
>> say the two are completely different problems.
>>
>> Your description looks to me as though the flats are rounding off. This
>> implies the nuts are frozen in place (stuck).
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "The Merg" <greg.mergner@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:es4hvm$1u7$1@aioe.org...
>>> I know there have been plenty of bolt removal questions on here, but
>>> here goes.
>>> The lugnuts on the front of my XJ are @#$#ed. I was able to get 4 or 5
>>> of 10 off no problem, but the others wouldn't budge. These seem like
>>> really crappy lugs, not one piece but two pieces with the nut and a cap.
>>> I've sprayed PB and tapped on the nuts every night for about a week and
>>> a half.
>>> I've been alternating between a breaker bar and impact wrench, and
>>> basically I've succeeded in breaking off most of the caps and stripping
>>> the nuts. The nuts don't seem to be stripping like I'm used to, it's
>>> more like they deform, like they're made of lead.
>>>
>>> some crappy pictures here:
>>> http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ripped%20lugs/
>>>
>>> I don't have a welder, but I could probably take it somewhere if welding
>>> nuts on top is my best option.
>>> I'm afraid to drill because of the studs.
>>> How should I do this without damaging the studs?
>>

merrill

On Feb 28, 7:24 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Curious, where did you find the 'wet' torque values for your lug nuts?
>
> If you are promoting a fluid on the threads, you should post the torque
> settings too or it is bad information.
>
> There is a 'radical' difference in the torque values on a dry nut and
> stud vs a wet one and the books give dry....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
>
> merrill wrote:
> > I replaced mine with the 1 piece solid long chrome lugnuts. If you
> > want my old 2 piece lugnuts you can have them (2 sets).
>
> > Now that you have the cheap caps ripped off and you are left with
> > regular lugnuts, use the proper size wrench to remove them. you will
> > need to soak them for a day or 2 with good petetrating oil (not WD40).
> > Use a good cross or breaker bar with a long pipe on it. Put some
> > pressure on it and have a buddy hold a flat piece of metal over the
> > exposed end of the cross and whack it with a 3 pound mallet. If that
> > doesen't work, repeat with a little more pressure and a heaver mallet.
>
> > When I put the lugnuts on, I put a little "fluid film"TM on the
> > threads and torque them properly. Don't use a gun, always use a torque
> > wrench. Retorque after 1 week.
>
> > Merrill
>
> > On Feb 28, 1:34 pm, The Merg <greg.merg...@REMOVEgmail.com> wrote:
> >> I know there have been plenty of bolt removal questions on here, but
> >> here goes.
> >> The lugnuts on the front of my XJ are @#$#ed. I was able to get 4 or 5
> >> of 10 off no problem, but the others wouldn't budge. These seem like
> >> really crappy lugs, not one piece but two pieces with the nut and a cap.
> >> I've sprayed PB and tapped on the nuts every night for about a week and
> >> a half.
> >> I've been alternating between a breaker bar and impact wrench, and
> >> basically I've succeeded in breaking off most of the caps and stripping
You are right Mike, I don't have wet torque specs.

I have always put a drop on the threads and tightened to 75 ft/lb as
per the Haynes manual. I didn't specify this number because it could
be wrong. But wet or dry I have always retourqued after a few days of
driving and haven't had a problem yet.

Merrill

> >> the nuts. The nuts don't seem to be stripping like I'm used to, it's
> >> more like they deform, like they're made of lead.
>
> >> some crappy pictures here:http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...ripped%20lugs/
>
> >> I don't have a welder, but I could probably take it somewhere if welding
> >> nuts on top is my best option.
> >> I'm afraid to drill because of the studs.
> >> How should I do this without damaging the studs?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -