Mine is toast too.

I need the back 8" of frame as well.....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

griffin wrote:
>
> Thx for the advice. I'll look into that over the winter and try and build
> enuf of a Jeep fund to have that done. That rear "bumper" crossmember is
> TOAST ...I'm not sure wth the previous owner was doing ...trying to pull a
> house off it's foundation I'm guessing ...but he sure bent it and ripped it
> all to shreds.
>
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140903220.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
> >
> > On a CJ the rear bumper is the frame rear cross member. It is welded
> > along the top edge to the frame rails, I'm not sure if it is also welded
> > to the bottom of the rail or not, but hazy memory says it is. There are
> > also beads joining the frame rail to the member inside the channel of the
> > member, and that cross member is also your rear body mount points. I
> > don't have a catalog in front of me right now but either 4WD.com or
> > Quadratec (or both) sells new, heavy-duty rear cross members, prepunched
> > and ready to weld in. It'll be easier than having your local ironmonger
> > cobble up something that almost -- but not quite -- fits.
> >
> > If your rear cross member has gone to cheese you should be prepared to do
> > some repair work to the last 18" of frame as well, especially the inner
> > face of the box. You'll need to drop the fuel tank and skid plate to get
> > the cross member out anyway, so it shouldn't be quite so difficult.
> > While you've got the tank out inspect it carefully for rust, now would be
> > the least painful time to replace a 20 year old fuel tank.
> >
> > Don't skimp and try to just weld extra metal over the rot. That's like
> > putting extra mustard on your sandwich to cover the taste of the bad
> > turkey. Either way you'll regret it later.
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 13 Oct 2004, griffin wrote:
> >
> > > Ya, it's only "fixed" in the sense that it's straight now. The entire
> hitch
> > > assembly bolts have ripped right through the frame bumper part at the
> back
> > > and is quite ready to come off at the slightest pull ...Speaking of
> which
> > > ...is there any easy way of replacing that piece ...it looks to be
> welded to
> > > the frame and is part of the Jeep frame member itself ...I'm going to
> get a
> > > local guy to build me a custom rear bumper next spring but it looks as
> > > though it either has to bolt to this piece or go around behind it and
> bolt
> > > through the frame.
> > >
> > > I'll have to take a picture since it's hard to describe ...unless
> someone
> > > out there has the same design ...
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:10mr89m41ik6k44@corp.supernews.com...
> > >>
> > >> "griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
> > >> news:4LBad.74423$a41.40444@pd7tw2no...
> > >>> Well, I FINALLY got my '85 CJ7 into the mud for the first time since I
> > >>> bought it. She did surprisingly well considering it's mostly stock
> > > (WAYYYY
> > >>> better than my '88 YJ). I only got stuck twice in the 2 hours of pure
> > >>> mudding and both times I probably could have gotten out with a bit
> more
> > >>> effort (both times in the same damn spot too ...grr!). Anyways, I
> > > managed
> > >> to
> > >>> get her home and here was the damage report:
> > >>>
> > >>> 1. Rear bumper and hitch actually were FIXED. They were bent prior to
> > >> going
> > >>> out but I got hung up on the pavement as I was entering the offroad
> area
> > >> (2
> > >>> foot straight drop) and it bent it back into place ..lol. I took a bit
> > > of
> > >>> concrete with me too ...whoopsies.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> I would take a very close look at that hitch if you "fixed" it that
> > > easily.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >

 

Mine is toast too.

I need the back 8" of frame as well.....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

griffin wrote:
>
> Thx for the advice. I'll look into that over the winter and try and build
> enuf of a Jeep fund to have that done. That rear "bumper" crossmember is
> TOAST ...I'm not sure wth the previous owner was doing ...trying to pull a
> house off it's foundation I'm guessing ...but he sure bent it and ripped it
> all to shreds.
>
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140903220.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
> >
> > On a CJ the rear bumper is the frame rear cross member. It is welded
> > along the top edge to the frame rails, I'm not sure if it is also welded
> > to the bottom of the rail or not, but hazy memory says it is. There are
> > also beads joining the frame rail to the member inside the channel of the
> > member, and that cross member is also your rear body mount points. I
> > don't have a catalog in front of me right now but either 4WD.com or
> > Quadratec (or both) sells new, heavy-duty rear cross members, prepunched
> > and ready to weld in. It'll be easier than having your local ironmonger
> > cobble up something that almost -- but not quite -- fits.
> >
> > If your rear cross member has gone to cheese you should be prepared to do
> > some repair work to the last 18" of frame as well, especially the inner
> > face of the box. You'll need to drop the fuel tank and skid plate to get
> > the cross member out anyway, so it shouldn't be quite so difficult.
> > While you've got the tank out inspect it carefully for rust, now would be
> > the least painful time to replace a 20 year old fuel tank.
> >
> > Don't skimp and try to just weld extra metal over the rot. That's like
> > putting extra mustard on your sandwich to cover the taste of the bad
> > turkey. Either way you'll regret it later.
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 13 Oct 2004, griffin wrote:
> >
> > > Ya, it's only "fixed" in the sense that it's straight now. The entire
> hitch
> > > assembly bolts have ripped right through the frame bumper part at the
> back
> > > and is quite ready to come off at the slightest pull ...Speaking of
> which
> > > ...is there any easy way of replacing that piece ...it looks to be
> welded to
> > > the frame and is part of the Jeep frame member itself ...I'm going to
> get a
> > > local guy to build me a custom rear bumper next spring but it looks as
> > > though it either has to bolt to this piece or go around behind it and
> bolt
> > > through the frame.
> > >
> > > I'll have to take a picture since it's hard to describe ...unless
> someone
> > > out there has the same design ...
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:10mr89m41ik6k44@corp.supernews.com...
> > >>
> > >> "griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
> > >> news:4LBad.74423$a41.40444@pd7tw2no...
> > >>> Well, I FINALLY got my '85 CJ7 into the mud for the first time since I
> > >>> bought it. She did surprisingly well considering it's mostly stock
> > > (WAYYYY
> > >>> better than my '88 YJ). I only got stuck twice in the 2 hours of pure
> > >>> mudding and both times I probably could have gotten out with a bit
> more
> > >>> effort (both times in the same damn spot too ...grr!). Anyways, I
> > > managed
> > >> to
> > >>> get her home and here was the damage report:
> > >>>
> > >>> 1. Rear bumper and hitch actually were FIXED. They were bent prior to
> > >> going
> > >>> out but I got hung up on the pavement as I was entering the offroad
> area
> > >> (2
> > >>> foot straight drop) and it bent it back into place ..lol. I took a bit
> > > of
> > >>> concrete with me too ...whoopsies.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> I would take a very close look at that hitch if you "fixed" it that
> > > easily.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >

 

Real Jeep frames are triangulated, reinforced open channel so they
can't rust out: http://www.----------.com/realJeepFrame.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Mine is toast too.
>
> I need the back 8" of frame as well.....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Real Jeep frames are triangulated, reinforced open channel so they
can't rust out: http://www.----------.com/realJeepFrame.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Mine is toast too.
>
> I need the back 8" of frame as well.....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Real Jeep frames are triangulated, reinforced open channel so they
can't rust out: http://www.----------.com/realJeepFrame.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> Mine is toast too.
>
> I need the back 8" of frame as well.....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

I have a 3/16" or maybe even a 1/4" 2x4 angle iron welded to the cross
member, with a pintle hitch welded to the angle iron. I also had a couple of
gussets added to the frame and cross member to reduce flexing of the frame.

One might be inclined to suggest that my welded-on part would pull the cross
member apart, but I have drug a mid '60s Dodge 3/4 ton truck with split-rim
tires - well, only one remaining - and one of those utility boxes on the
back like plumbers used back in the day, about 2 miles down a mountain gully
to the street so the wrecker could pick it up. The pintle hitch was the
anchor point for the chain, and the spotter said there was no sign of
flexing. I am pretty sure I could hang my Jeep by its pintle hitch from a
helicopter if I had to - of course, if I had to, I am not sure I would want
to bother.




"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:y6Dbd.102192$a41.101477@pd7tw2no...
> Thx for the advice. I'll look into that over the winter and try and build
> enuf of a Jeep fund to have that done. That rear "bumper" crossmember is
> TOAST ...I'm not sure wth the previous owner was doing ...trying to pull a
> house off it's foundation I'm guessing ...but he sure bent it and ripped
it
> all to shreds.
>
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140903220.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
> >
> > On a CJ the rear bumper is the frame rear cross member. It is welded
> > along the top edge to the frame rails, I'm not sure if it is also welded
> > to the bottom of the rail or not, but hazy memory says it is. There are
> > also beads joining the frame rail to the member inside the channel of
the
> > member, and that cross member is also your rear body mount points. I
> > don't have a catalog in front of me right now but either 4WD.com or
> > Quadratec (or both) sells new, heavy-duty rear cross members, prepunched
> > and ready to weld in. It'll be easier than having your local ironmonger
> > cobble up something that almost -- but not quite -- fits.
> >
> > If your rear cross member has gone to cheese you should be prepared to
do
> > some repair work to the last 18" of frame as well, especially the inner
> > face of the box. You'll need to drop the fuel tank and skid plate to
get
> > the cross member out anyway, so it shouldn't be quite so difficult.
> > While you've got the tank out inspect it carefully for rust, now would
be
> > the least painful time to replace a 20 year old fuel tank.
> >
> > Don't skimp and try to just weld extra metal over the rot. That's like
> > putting extra mustard on your sandwich to cover the taste of the bad
> > turkey. Either way you'll regret it later.
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 13 Oct 2004, griffin wrote:
> >
> > > Ya, it's only "fixed" in the sense that it's straight now. The entire
> hitch
> > > assembly bolts have ripped right through the frame bumper part at the
> back
> > > and is quite ready to come off at the slightest pull ...Speaking of
> which
> > > ...is there any easy way of replacing that piece ...it looks to be
> welded to
> > > the frame and is part of the Jeep frame member itself ...I'm going to
> get a
> > > local guy to build me a custom rear bumper next spring but it looks as
> > > though it either has to bolt to this piece or go around behind it and
> bolt
> > > through the frame.
> > >
> > > I'll have to take a picture since it's hard to describe ...unless
> someone
> > > out there has the same design ...
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:10mr89m41ik6k44@corp.supernews.com...
> > >>
> > >> "griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
> > >> news:4LBad.74423$a41.40444@pd7tw2no...
> > >>> Well, I FINALLY got my '85 CJ7 into the mud for the first time since
I
> > >>> bought it. She did surprisingly well considering it's mostly stock
> > > (WAYYYY
> > >>> better than my '88 YJ). I only got stuck twice in the 2 hours of
pure
> > >>> mudding and both times I probably could have gotten out with a bit
> more
> > >>> effort (both times in the same damn spot too ...grr!). Anyways, I
> > > managed
> > >> to
> > >>> get her home and here was the damage report:
> > >>>
> > >>> 1. Rear bumper and hitch actually were FIXED. They were bent prior
to
> > >> going
> > >>> out but I got hung up on the pavement as I was entering the offroad
> area
> > >> (2
> > >>> foot straight drop) and it bent it back into place ..lol. I took a
bit
> > > of
> > >>> concrete with me too ...whoopsies.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> I would take a very close look at that hitch if you "fixed" it that
> > > easily.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

 

I have a 3/16" or maybe even a 1/4" 2x4 angle iron welded to the cross
member, with a pintle hitch welded to the angle iron. I also had a couple of
gussets added to the frame and cross member to reduce flexing of the frame.

One might be inclined to suggest that my welded-on part would pull the cross
member apart, but I have drug a mid '60s Dodge 3/4 ton truck with split-rim
tires - well, only one remaining - and one of those utility boxes on the
back like plumbers used back in the day, about 2 miles down a mountain gully
to the street so the wrecker could pick it up. The pintle hitch was the
anchor point for the chain, and the spotter said there was no sign of
flexing. I am pretty sure I could hang my Jeep by its pintle hitch from a
helicopter if I had to - of course, if I had to, I am not sure I would want
to bother.




"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:y6Dbd.102192$a41.101477@pd7tw2no...
> Thx for the advice. I'll look into that over the winter and try and build
> enuf of a Jeep fund to have that done. That rear "bumper" crossmember is
> TOAST ...I'm not sure wth the previous owner was doing ...trying to pull a
> house off it's foundation I'm guessing ...but he sure bent it and ripped
it
> all to shreds.
>
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140903220.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
> >
> > On a CJ the rear bumper is the frame rear cross member. It is welded
> > along the top edge to the frame rails, I'm not sure if it is also welded
> > to the bottom of the rail or not, but hazy memory says it is. There are
> > also beads joining the frame rail to the member inside the channel of
the
> > member, and that cross member is also your rear body mount points. I
> > don't have a catalog in front of me right now but either 4WD.com or
> > Quadratec (or both) sells new, heavy-duty rear cross members, prepunched
> > and ready to weld in. It'll be easier than having your local ironmonger
> > cobble up something that almost -- but not quite -- fits.
> >
> > If your rear cross member has gone to cheese you should be prepared to
do
> > some repair work to the last 18" of frame as well, especially the inner
> > face of the box. You'll need to drop the fuel tank and skid plate to
get
> > the cross member out anyway, so it shouldn't be quite so difficult.
> > While you've got the tank out inspect it carefully for rust, now would
be
> > the least painful time to replace a 20 year old fuel tank.
> >
> > Don't skimp and try to just weld extra metal over the rot. That's like
> > putting extra mustard on your sandwich to cover the taste of the bad
> > turkey. Either way you'll regret it later.
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 13 Oct 2004, griffin wrote:
> >
> > > Ya, it's only "fixed" in the sense that it's straight now. The entire
> hitch
> > > assembly bolts have ripped right through the frame bumper part at the
> back
> > > and is quite ready to come off at the slightest pull ...Speaking of
> which
> > > ...is there any easy way of replacing that piece ...it looks to be
> welded to
> > > the frame and is part of the Jeep frame member itself ...I'm going to
> get a
> > > local guy to build me a custom rear bumper next spring but it looks as
> > > though it either has to bolt to this piece or go around behind it and
> bolt
> > > through the frame.
> > >
> > > I'll have to take a picture since it's hard to describe ...unless
> someone
> > > out there has the same design ...
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:10mr89m41ik6k44@corp.supernews.com...
> > >>
> > >> "griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
> > >> news:4LBad.74423$a41.40444@pd7tw2no...
> > >>> Well, I FINALLY got my '85 CJ7 into the mud for the first time since
I
> > >>> bought it. She did surprisingly well considering it's mostly stock
> > > (WAYYYY
> > >>> better than my '88 YJ). I only got stuck twice in the 2 hours of
pure
> > >>> mudding and both times I probably could have gotten out with a bit
> more
> > >>> effort (both times in the same damn spot too ...grr!). Anyways, I
> > > managed
> > >> to
> > >>> get her home and here was the damage report:
> > >>>
> > >>> 1. Rear bumper and hitch actually were FIXED. They were bent prior
to
> > >> going
> > >>> out but I got hung up on the pavement as I was entering the offroad
> area
> > >> (2
> > >>> foot straight drop) and it bent it back into place ..lol. I took a
bit
> > > of
> > >>> concrete with me too ...whoopsies.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> I would take a very close look at that hitch if you "fixed" it that
> > > easily.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

 

I have a 3/16" or maybe even a 1/4" 2x4 angle iron welded to the cross
member, with a pintle hitch welded to the angle iron. I also had a couple of
gussets added to the frame and cross member to reduce flexing of the frame.

One might be inclined to suggest that my welded-on part would pull the cross
member apart, but I have drug a mid '60s Dodge 3/4 ton truck with split-rim
tires - well, only one remaining - and one of those utility boxes on the
back like plumbers used back in the day, about 2 miles down a mountain gully
to the street so the wrecker could pick it up. The pintle hitch was the
anchor point for the chain, and the spotter said there was no sign of
flexing. I am pretty sure I could hang my Jeep by its pintle hitch from a
helicopter if I had to - of course, if I had to, I am not sure I would want
to bother.




"griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
news:y6Dbd.102192$a41.101477@pd7tw2no...
> Thx for the advice. I'll look into that over the winter and try and build
> enuf of a Jeep fund to have that done. That rear "bumper" crossmember is
> TOAST ...I'm not sure wth the previous owner was doing ...trying to pull a
> house off it's foundation I'm guessing ...but he sure bent it and ripped
it
> all to shreds.
>
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
> news:Pine.NEB.4.61.0410140903220.18193@panix3.pani x.com...
> >
> > On a CJ the rear bumper is the frame rear cross member. It is welded
> > along the top edge to the frame rails, I'm not sure if it is also welded
> > to the bottom of the rail or not, but hazy memory says it is. There are
> > also beads joining the frame rail to the member inside the channel of
the
> > member, and that cross member is also your rear body mount points. I
> > don't have a catalog in front of me right now but either 4WD.com or
> > Quadratec (or both) sells new, heavy-duty rear cross members, prepunched
> > and ready to weld in. It'll be easier than having your local ironmonger
> > cobble up something that almost -- but not quite -- fits.
> >
> > If your rear cross member has gone to cheese you should be prepared to
do
> > some repair work to the last 18" of frame as well, especially the inner
> > face of the box. You'll need to drop the fuel tank and skid plate to
get
> > the cross member out anyway, so it shouldn't be quite so difficult.
> > While you've got the tank out inspect it carefully for rust, now would
be
> > the least painful time to replace a 20 year old fuel tank.
> >
> > Don't skimp and try to just weld extra metal over the rot. That's like
> > putting extra mustard on your sandwich to cover the taste of the bad
> > turkey. Either way you'll regret it later.
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 13 Oct 2004, griffin wrote:
> >
> > > Ya, it's only "fixed" in the sense that it's straight now. The entire
> hitch
> > > assembly bolts have ripped right through the frame bumper part at the
> back
> > > and is quite ready to come off at the slightest pull ...Speaking of
> which
> > > ...is there any easy way of replacing that piece ...it looks to be
> welded to
> > > the frame and is part of the Jeep frame member itself ...I'm going to
> get a
> > > local guy to build me a custom rear bumper next spring but it looks as
> > > though it either has to bolt to this piece or go around behind it and
> bolt
> > > through the frame.
> > >
> > > I'll have to take a picture since it's hard to describe ...unless
> someone
> > > out there has the same design ...
> > >
> > >
> > > "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > news:10mr89m41ik6k44@corp.supernews.com...
> > >>
> > >> "griffin" <gryffy@DELTHISshaw.ca> wrote in message
> > >> news:4LBad.74423$a41.40444@pd7tw2no...
> > >>> Well, I FINALLY got my '85 CJ7 into the mud for the first time since
I
> > >>> bought it. She did surprisingly well considering it's mostly stock
> > > (WAYYYY
> > >>> better than my '88 YJ). I only got stuck twice in the 2 hours of
pure
> > >>> mudding and both times I probably could have gotten out with a bit
> more
> > >>> effort (both times in the same damn spot too ...grr!). Anyways, I
> > > managed
> > >> to
> > >>> get her home and here was the damage report:
> > >>>
> > >>> 1. Rear bumper and hitch actually were FIXED. They were bent prior
to
> > >> going
> > >>> out but I got hung up on the pavement as I was entering the offroad
> area
> > >> (2
> > >>> foot straight drop) and it bent it back into place ..lol. I took a
bit
> > > of
> > >>> concrete with me too ...whoopsies.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> I would take a very close look at that hitch if you "fixed" it that
> > > easily.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>