Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
You're in New York area. Gets pretty cold and warm there.
If the stuff's been in the garage, probably went through some major temp
swings. Temperature and humididity make moisture.
If it's an air tight bottle, never been opened, probably no condensation
in it.
But for 10 bucks...
If the stuff's been in the garage, probably went through some major temp
swings. Temperature and humididity make moisture.
If it's an air tight bottle, never been opened, probably no condensation
in it.
But for 10 bucks...
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
You're in New York area. Gets pretty cold and warm there.
If the stuff's been in the garage, probably went through some major temp
swings. Temperature and humididity make moisture.
If it's an air tight bottle, never been opened, probably no condensation
in it.
But for 10 bucks...
If the stuff's been in the garage, probably went through some major temp
swings. Temperature and humididity make moisture.
If it's an air tight bottle, never been opened, probably no condensation
in it.
But for 10 bucks...
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
You're in New York area. Gets pretty cold and warm there.
If the stuff's been in the garage, probably went through some major temp
swings. Temperature and humididity make moisture.
If it's an air tight bottle, never been opened, probably no condensation
in it.
But for 10 bucks...
If the stuff's been in the garage, probably went through some major temp
swings. Temperature and humididity make moisture.
If it's an air tight bottle, never been opened, probably no condensation
in it.
But for 10 bucks...
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
I think you got all the brake advice you'll need from these guys.
Get a propane torch for the pitman arm. Snug up the puller on the arm, heat
the arm up a little bit, and smack it really hard with a BFH. Pulling with
just the puller *will* break the puller.
Carl
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141175099.299401.77620@p10g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Again thanks all.
>
> I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
> will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
> I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
> explode out when I undo the fittings.
>
> I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
> front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
> that which I will follow.
>
> Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
> container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
> opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
> If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.
>
> Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
> Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
> various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
> and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
> had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
> puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
> love this.
>
> Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
> http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
> well get that too.
>
Get a propane torch for the pitman arm. Snug up the puller on the arm, heat
the arm up a little bit, and smack it really hard with a BFH. Pulling with
just the puller *will* break the puller.
Carl
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141175099.299401.77620@p10g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Again thanks all.
>
> I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
> will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
> I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
> explode out when I undo the fittings.
>
> I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
> front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
> that which I will follow.
>
> Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
> container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
> opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
> If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.
>
> Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
> Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
> various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
> and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
> had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
> puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
> love this.
>
> Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
> http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
> well get that too.
>
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
I think you got all the brake advice you'll need from these guys.
Get a propane torch for the pitman arm. Snug up the puller on the arm, heat
the arm up a little bit, and smack it really hard with a BFH. Pulling with
just the puller *will* break the puller.
Carl
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141175099.299401.77620@p10g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Again thanks all.
>
> I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
> will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
> I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
> explode out when I undo the fittings.
>
> I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
> front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
> that which I will follow.
>
> Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
> container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
> opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
> If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.
>
> Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
> Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
> various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
> and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
> had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
> puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
> love this.
>
> Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
> http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
> well get that too.
>
Get a propane torch for the pitman arm. Snug up the puller on the arm, heat
the arm up a little bit, and smack it really hard with a BFH. Pulling with
just the puller *will* break the puller.
Carl
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141175099.299401.77620@p10g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Again thanks all.
>
> I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
> will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
> I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
> explode out when I undo the fittings.
>
> I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
> front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
> that which I will follow.
>
> Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
> container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
> opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
> If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.
>
> Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
> Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
> various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
> and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
> had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
> puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
> love this.
>
> Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
> http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
> well get that too.
>
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
I think you got all the brake advice you'll need from these guys.
Get a propane torch for the pitman arm. Snug up the puller on the arm, heat
the arm up a little bit, and smack it really hard with a BFH. Pulling with
just the puller *will* break the puller.
Carl
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141175099.299401.77620@p10g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Again thanks all.
>
> I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
> will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
> I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
> explode out when I undo the fittings.
>
> I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
> front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
> that which I will follow.
>
> Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
> container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
> opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
> If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.
>
> Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
> Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
> various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
> and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
> had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
> puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
> love this.
>
> Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
> http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
> well get that too.
>
Get a propane torch for the pitman arm. Snug up the puller on the arm, heat
the arm up a little bit, and smack it really hard with a BFH. Pulling with
just the puller *will* break the puller.
Carl
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141175099.299401.77620@p10g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Again thanks all.
>
> I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
> will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
> I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
> explode out when I undo the fittings.
>
> I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
> front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
> that which I will follow.
>
> Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
> container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
> opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
> If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.
>
> Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
> Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
> various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
> and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
> had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
> puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
> love this.
>
> Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
> http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
> well get that too.
>
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
I think you got all the brake advice you'll need from these guys.
Get a propane torch for the pitman arm. Snug up the puller on the arm, heat
the arm up a little bit, and smack it really hard with a BFH. Pulling with
just the puller *will* break the puller.
Carl
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141175099.299401.77620@p10g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Again thanks all.
>
> I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
> will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
> I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
> explode out when I undo the fittings.
>
> I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
> front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
> that which I will follow.
>
> Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
> container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
> opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
> If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.
>
> Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
> Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
> various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
> and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
> had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
> puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
> love this.
>
> Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
> http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
> well get that too.
>
Get a propane torch for the pitman arm. Snug up the puller on the arm, heat
the arm up a little bit, and smack it really hard with a BFH. Pulling with
just the puller *will* break the puller.
Carl
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141175099.299401.77620@p10g2000cwp.googlegro ups.com...
> Again thanks all.
>
> I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
> will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
> I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
> explode out when I undo the fittings.
>
> I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
> front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
> that which I will follow.
>
> Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
> container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
> opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
> If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.
>
> Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
> Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
> various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
> and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
> had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
> puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
> love this.
>
> Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
> http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
> well get that too.
>
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141169948.206899.103660@t39g2000cwt.googlegr oups.com...
>I posted earlier re the T connection on the rear axle of my 91 YJ.
> I'm soon to do an axle swap and have zero experience with brakes.
>
> So I have some basic questions.
>
Please stay in front of me until you know if your work is good or not.
> 1/ For the rear, when I unbolt the line end opposite the T at the
> frame does all the brake fluid pour out? I'm concerned that all my
> brake fluid will leak out and then I will have to have my master cyl
> bench bled.
It only leaks until you plug the line, then it stops leaking. You don't have
to have you MC bench blead, you can do this job yourself.
> 2/ I was told the rear and fronts are seperate systems is that true?
Yes.
> 2A/ If so when I do my axle swap for the front I'm keeping the calipers
> that are on my rig now and will not undo the brake line to the caliper.
> Does this mean I dont have to bleed the front brakes?
Yes, and no.
If you disconnect the rear brakes and plug the line, the front brakes ought
to be unaffected. You will need to bleed the rear brakes in any case, and
you should bleed the front brakes "just because".
> 3/ I bought speed bleeders for the front and back from Summit racing.
> Is it true you can bleed your brakes by yourself with these?
>
It's true the I can, whether or not you can is another matter.
>
> Can someone tell me in very simple terms what the answers are.
>
That's a no, a yes, a guarded yes, and a maybe, and a request that you stay
in front until you figure this out.
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141169948.206899.103660@t39g2000cwt.googlegr oups.com...
>I posted earlier re the T connection on the rear axle of my 91 YJ.
> I'm soon to do an axle swap and have zero experience with brakes.
>
> So I have some basic questions.
>
Please stay in front of me until you know if your work is good or not.
> 1/ For the rear, when I unbolt the line end opposite the T at the
> frame does all the brake fluid pour out? I'm concerned that all my
> brake fluid will leak out and then I will have to have my master cyl
> bench bled.
It only leaks until you plug the line, then it stops leaking. You don't have
to have you MC bench blead, you can do this job yourself.
> 2/ I was told the rear and fronts are seperate systems is that true?
Yes.
> 2A/ If so when I do my axle swap for the front I'm keeping the calipers
> that are on my rig now and will not undo the brake line to the caliper.
> Does this mean I dont have to bleed the front brakes?
Yes, and no.
If you disconnect the rear brakes and plug the line, the front brakes ought
to be unaffected. You will need to bleed the rear brakes in any case, and
you should bleed the front brakes "just because".
> 3/ I bought speed bleeders for the front and back from Summit racing.
> Is it true you can bleed your brakes by yourself with these?
>
It's true the I can, whether or not you can is another matter.
>
> Can someone tell me in very simple terms what the answers are.
>
That's a no, a yes, a guarded yes, and a maybe, and a request that you stay
in front until you figure this out.
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Stoopid ?? for first time brake work
"ufatbastehd" <ufatbasted@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1141169948.206899.103660@t39g2000cwt.googlegr oups.com...
>I posted earlier re the T connection on the rear axle of my 91 YJ.
> I'm soon to do an axle swap and have zero experience with brakes.
>
> So I have some basic questions.
>
Please stay in front of me until you know if your work is good or not.
> 1/ For the rear, when I unbolt the line end opposite the T at the
> frame does all the brake fluid pour out? I'm concerned that all my
> brake fluid will leak out and then I will have to have my master cyl
> bench bled.
It only leaks until you plug the line, then it stops leaking. You don't have
to have you MC bench blead, you can do this job yourself.
> 2/ I was told the rear and fronts are seperate systems is that true?
Yes.
> 2A/ If so when I do my axle swap for the front I'm keeping the calipers
> that are on my rig now and will not undo the brake line to the caliper.
> Does this mean I dont have to bleed the front brakes?
Yes, and no.
If you disconnect the rear brakes and plug the line, the front brakes ought
to be unaffected. You will need to bleed the rear brakes in any case, and
you should bleed the front brakes "just because".
> 3/ I bought speed bleeders for the front and back from Summit racing.
> Is it true you can bleed your brakes by yourself with these?
>
It's true the I can, whether or not you can is another matter.
>
> Can someone tell me in very simple terms what the answers are.
>
That's a no, a yes, a guarded yes, and a maybe, and a request that you stay
in front until you figure this out.