And, don't use that rusty old can of brake fluid you've had sitting on
the shelf for 2 years to refill the system.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture once the can has been opened. Moisture in
the system leads to a soft pedal...
Buy a fresh can of fluid.

 

And of course use the correct wrench:
http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Jo Bo wrote:
>
> Fluid will not run out, it will drip. Don't force a unwilling brake line
> fitting. heat with a propane torch and then PB Blaster. A second round may
> be different but it will eventually come out intact. Also use a "line'
> wrench on the fittings. You should change your brake fluid anyhow. I don't
> know what a "speed bleeder" is but yes a one man bleeder will work. You may
> still need to bleed the front.
>
> ditto on getting a Haynes!
>
> JoBo

 

And of course use the correct wrench:
http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Jo Bo wrote:
>
> Fluid will not run out, it will drip. Don't force a unwilling brake line
> fitting. heat with a propane torch and then PB Blaster. A second round may
> be different but it will eventually come out intact. Also use a "line'
> wrench on the fittings. You should change your brake fluid anyhow. I don't
> know what a "speed bleeder" is but yes a one man bleeder will work. You may
> still need to bleed the front.
>
> ditto on getting a Haynes!
>
> JoBo

 

And of course use the correct wrench:
http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Jo Bo wrote:
>
> Fluid will not run out, it will drip. Don't force a unwilling brake line
> fitting. heat with a propane torch and then PB Blaster. A second round may
> be different but it will eventually come out intact. Also use a "line'
> wrench on the fittings. You should change your brake fluid anyhow. I don't
> know what a "speed bleeder" is but yes a one man bleeder will work. You may
> still need to bleed the front.
>
> ditto on getting a Haynes!
>
> JoBo

 

And of course use the correct wrench:
http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

Jo Bo wrote:
>
> Fluid will not run out, it will drip. Don't force a unwilling brake line
> fitting. heat with a propane torch and then PB Blaster. A second round may
> be different but it will eventually come out intact. Also use a "line'
> wrench on the fittings. You should change your brake fluid anyhow. I don't
> know what a "speed bleeder" is but yes a one man bleeder will work. You may
> still need to bleed the front.
>
> ditto on getting a Haynes!
>
> JoBo

 

Again thanks all.

I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
explode out when I undo the fittings.

I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
that which I will follow.

Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.

Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
love this.

Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
well get that too.

 

Again thanks all.

I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
explode out when I undo the fittings.

I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
that which I will follow.

Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.

Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
love this.

Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
well get that too.

 

Again thanks all.

I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
explode out when I undo the fittings.

I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
that which I will follow.

Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.

Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
love this.

Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
well get that too.

 

Again thanks all.

I do have a haynes manual I did not see any mention of how the fluid
will come out which was my main concern. So I will bleed all 4 wheels.
I have never seen or have done this myself so I expected the fluid to
explode out when I undo the fittings.

I read about brake bleeding start with pass rear, driver rear, pass
front and last driver front. Stu Olsens site has a good write up on
that which I will follow.

Thanks Clay for the tip on the fluid I was going to use an old plastic
container of brake fluid I had for who knows how long it was never
opened, would that make a diff. I did not see an expiration date on it
If not guess I'll make another trip to the store.

Was trying to save some dough as I just bought new BDS 3.5 springs, a
Tom Woods SYE, Drop Pitman Arm, Tranny Mount, Dif and ATF fluids and
various size sockes and snap ring pliers. Also got a new T case chain
and O ring as my rig has 125,000 mi and figured I change that when I
had the tcase open. At least a pal had a heavy duty snap on pitman arm
puller which I can borrow. So the cost is a going up. My wife is gonna
love this.

Are the sizes on the pic Bill posted
http://www.----------.com/LWrench.jpg correct for a YJ? as I might as
well get that too.

 

You're in New York area. Gets pretty cold and warm there.
If the stuff's been in the garage, probably went through some major temp
swings. Temperature and humididity make moisture.
If it's an air tight bottle, never been opened, probably no condensation
in it.
But for 10 bucks...