I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give that a
whirl.

As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was hoping/expecting.
But apparently up here in Canada, they make them things out of gold. On the
plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty sure I can haul that piece off
in about 2 minutes! :) I'm getting very intimate with my throttle area...

Clint

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Clint wrote:
>
>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>
>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>
> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75
> for
> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>
> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
> other
> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing about
> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
> pins.
> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so
> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>
> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and Wagoneer
> with the 4.0 engine.
>
> --
> Will Honea
> whonea@yahoo.com

 

If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.

With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into
the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle
at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be
4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Clint wrote:
> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
> that a whirl.
>
> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty
> sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm getting very
> intimate with my throttle area...
>
> Clint
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>> Clint wrote:
>>
>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>
>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>
>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of
>> $75 for
>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>
>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
>> other
>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>> about
>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
>> pins.
>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so
>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>
>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>> Wagoneer
>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea
>> whonea@yahoo.com
>

 

If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.

With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into
the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle
at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be
4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Clint wrote:
> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
> that a whirl.
>
> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty
> sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm getting very
> intimate with my throttle area...
>
> Clint
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>> Clint wrote:
>>
>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>
>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>
>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of
>> $75 for
>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>
>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
>> other
>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>> about
>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
>> pins.
>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so
>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>
>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>> Wagoneer
>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea
>> whonea@yahoo.com
>

 

If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.

With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into
the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle
at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be
4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Clint wrote:
> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
> that a whirl.
>
> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty
> sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm getting very
> intimate with my throttle area...
>
> Clint
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>> Clint wrote:
>>
>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>
>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>
>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of
>> $75 for
>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>
>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
>> other
>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>> about
>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
>> pins.
>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so
>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>
>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>> Wagoneer
>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea
>> whonea@yahoo.com
>

 

To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the IAS
to make sure it's working correctly?

BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through
it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that it
does go through a range of resistances smoothly.

I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest of
assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the computer
screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed to have the
lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This would cause the
TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can see, as it won't
move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just watch that if you need
to replace/adjust that.

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>
> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into the
> back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle at
> rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be 4.8V
> max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Clint wrote:
>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
>> that a whirl.
>>
>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them things
>> out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty sure I
>> can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm getting very intimate
>> with my throttle area...
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> Clint wrote:
>>>
>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>
>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>
>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75
>>> for
>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>
>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
>>> other
>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>>> about
>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
>>> pins.
>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed,
>>> so
>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>
>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>> Wagoneer
>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea
>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>

 

To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the IAS
to make sure it's working correctly?

BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through
it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that it
does go through a range of resistances smoothly.

I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest of
assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the computer
screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed to have the
lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This would cause the
TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can see, as it won't
move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just watch that if you need
to replace/adjust that.

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>
> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into the
> back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle at
> rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be 4.8V
> max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Clint wrote:
>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
>> that a whirl.
>>
>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them things
>> out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty sure I
>> can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm getting very intimate
>> with my throttle area...
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> Clint wrote:
>>>
>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>
>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>
>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75
>>> for
>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>
>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
>>> other
>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>>> about
>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
>>> pins.
>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed,
>>> so
>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>
>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>> Wagoneer
>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea
>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>

 

To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the IAS
to make sure it's working correctly?

BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through
it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that it
does go through a range of resistances smoothly.

I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest of
assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the computer
screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed to have the
lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This would cause the
TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can see, as it won't
move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just watch that if you need
to replace/adjust that.

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>
> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into the
> back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle at
> rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be 4.8V
> max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Clint wrote:
>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
>> that a whirl.
>>
>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them things
>> out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty sure I
>> can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm getting very intimate
>> with my throttle area...
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> Clint wrote:
>>>
>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>
>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>
>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75
>>> for
>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>
>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
>>> other
>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>>> about
>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
>>> pins.
>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed,
>>> so
>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>
>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>> Wagoneer
>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea
>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>

 

Does your meter not have a volt setting?

Mike

Clint wrote:
> To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the
> IAS to make sure it's working correctly?
>
> BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through
> it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that
> it does go through a range of resistances smoothly.
>
> I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest
> of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the
> computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed
> to have the lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This
> would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can
> see, as it won't move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just
> watch that if you need to replace/adjust that.
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>>
>> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into
>> the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the
>> throttle at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts
>> should be 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Clint wrote:
>>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
>>> that a whirl.
>>>
>>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
>>> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm
>>> pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm
>>> getting very intimate with my throttle area...
>>>
>>> Clint
>>>
>>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>>
>>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>>
>>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of
>>>> $75 for
>>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>>
>>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it
>>>> well
>>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
>>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the
>>>> resistance
>>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
>>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
>>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and
>>>> the other
>>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>>>> about
>>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of
>>>> the pins.
>>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at
>>>> some
>>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not
>>>> sealed, so
>>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>>
>>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>>> Wagoneer
>>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Will Honea
>>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>>
>

 

Does your meter not have a volt setting?

Mike

Clint wrote:
> To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the
> IAS to make sure it's working correctly?
>
> BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through
> it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that
> it does go through a range of resistances smoothly.
>
> I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest
> of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the
> computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed
> to have the lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This
> would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can
> see, as it won't move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just
> watch that if you need to replace/adjust that.
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>>
>> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into
>> the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the
>> throttle at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts
>> should be 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Clint wrote:
>>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
>>> that a whirl.
>>>
>>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
>>> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm
>>> pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm
>>> getting very intimate with my throttle area...
>>>
>>> Clint
>>>
>>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>>
>>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>>
>>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of
>>>> $75 for
>>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>>
>>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it
>>>> well
>>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
>>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the
>>>> resistance
>>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
>>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
>>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and
>>>> the other
>>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>>>> about
>>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of
>>>> the pins.
>>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at
>>>> some
>>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not
>>>> sealed, so
>>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>>
>>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>>> Wagoneer
>>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Will Honea
>>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>>
>

 

Does your meter not have a volt setting?

Mike

Clint wrote:
> To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the
> IAS to make sure it's working correctly?
>
> BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through
> it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that
> it does go through a range of resistances smoothly.
>
> I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest
> of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the
> computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed
> to have the lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This
> would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can
> see, as it won't move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just
> watch that if you need to replace/adjust that.
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>>
>> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into
>> the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the
>> throttle at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts
>> should be 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Clint wrote:
>>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
>>> that a whirl.
>>>
>>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
>>> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm
>>> pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm
>>> getting very intimate with my throttle area...
>>>
>>> Clint
>>>
>>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>>
>>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>>
>>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of
>>>> $75 for
>>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>>
>>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it
>>>> well
>>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
>>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the
>>>> resistance
>>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
>>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
>>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and
>>>> the other
>>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>>>> about
>>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of
>>>> the pins.
>>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at
>>>> some
>>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not
>>>> sealed, so
>>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>>
>>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>>> Wagoneer
>>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Will Honea
>>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>>
>