I measured before, and was getting < .5V. But whether it was exactly .2V or
not, my meter didn't give me confidence enough to say yeah or nay.

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4612b0c8$0$2948$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> Does your meter not have a volt setting?
>
> Mike
>
> Clint wrote:
>> To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the
>> IAS to make sure it's working correctly?
>>
>> BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through
>> it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that
>> it does go through a range of resistances smoothly.
>>
>> I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest
>> of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the
>> computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed to
>> have the lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This
>> would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can
>> see, as it won't move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just
>> watch that if you need to replace/adjust that.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>>>
>>> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into
>>> the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle
>>> at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be
>>> 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>> Clint wrote:
>>>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
>>>> that a whirl.
>>>>
>>>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>>>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
>>>> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm
>>>> pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm
>>>> getting very intimate with my throttle area...
>>>>
>>>> Clint
>>>>
>>>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>>>
>>>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of
>>>>> $75 for
>>>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>>>
>>>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it
>>>>> well
>>>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to
>>>>> filter
>>>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the
>>>>> resistance
>>>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if
>>>>> you
>>>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several
>>>>> ohms
>>>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
>>>>> other
>>>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>>>>> about
>>>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
>>>>> pins.
>>>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at
>>>>> some
>>>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>>>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed,
>>>>> so
>>>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>>>
>>>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>>>> Wagoneer
>>>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Will Honea
>>>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>>>
>>

 

I measured before, and was getting < .5V. But whether it was exactly .2V or
not, my meter didn't give me confidence enough to say yeah or nay.

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4612b0c8$0$2948$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> Does your meter not have a volt setting?
>
> Mike
>
> Clint wrote:
>> To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the
>> IAS to make sure it's working correctly?
>>
>> BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through
>> it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that
>> it does go through a range of resistances smoothly.
>>
>> I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest
>> of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the
>> computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed to
>> have the lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This
>> would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can
>> see, as it won't move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just
>> watch that if you need to replace/adjust that.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>>>
>>> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into
>>> the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle
>>> at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be
>>> 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>> Clint wrote:
>>>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
>>>> that a whirl.
>>>>
>>>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>>>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
>>>> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm
>>>> pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm
>>>> getting very intimate with my throttle area...
>>>>
>>>> Clint
>>>>
>>>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>>>
>>>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of
>>>>> $75 for
>>>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>>>
>>>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it
>>>>> well
>>>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to
>>>>> filter
>>>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the
>>>>> resistance
>>>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if
>>>>> you
>>>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several
>>>>> ohms
>>>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
>>>>> other
>>>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>>>>> about
>>>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
>>>>> pins.
>>>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at
>>>>> some
>>>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>>>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed,
>>>>> so
>>>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>>>
>>>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>>>> Wagoneer
>>>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Will Honea
>>>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>>>
>>

 

I measured before, and was getting < .5V. But whether it was exactly .2V or
not, my meter didn't give me confidence enough to say yeah or nay.

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4612b0c8$0$2948$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> Does your meter not have a volt setting?
>
> Mike
>
> Clint wrote:
>> To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the
>> IAS to make sure it's working correctly?
>>
>> BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated through
>> it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say is that
>> it does go through a range of resistances smoothly.
>>
>> I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the interest
>> of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face behind the
>> computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default position seemed to
>> have the lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle body arm. This
>> would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty much useless, as far as I can
>> see, as it won't move with the throttle body lever. Whoops. So just
>> watch that if you need to replace/adjust that.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>>>
>>> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into
>>> the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the throttle
>>> at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts should be
>>> 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle opens.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>> Clint wrote:
>>>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
>>>> that a whirl.
>>>>
>>>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>>>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
>>>> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm
>>>> pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm
>>>> getting very intimate with my throttle area...
>>>>
>>>> Clint
>>>>
>>>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>>>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>>>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>>>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>>>
>>>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of
>>>>> $75 for
>>>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>>>
>>>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it
>>>>> well
>>>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to
>>>>> filter
>>>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the
>>>>> resistance
>>>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if
>>>>> you
>>>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several
>>>>> ohms
>>>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
>>>>> other
>>>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>>>>> about
>>>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
>>>>> pins.
>>>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at
>>>>> some
>>>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
>>>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed,
>>>>> so
>>>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>>>
>>>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>>>> Wagoneer
>>>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Will Honea
>>>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>>>
>>

 

There is a special tool my book calls an 'exerciser' to test the idle
stepper. The book sort of implies a high moves the pintle out and a low
in, but it doesn't say for sure.

It, the ISS has a moving part that can stand to be cleaned.

Mike

Clint wrote:
> I measured before, and was getting < .5V. But whether it was exactly
> .2V or not, my meter didn't give me confidence enough to say yeah or nay.
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4612b0c8$0$2948$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Does your meter not have a volt setting?
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Clint wrote:
>>> To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test
>>> the IAS to make sure it's working correctly?
>>>
>>> BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated
>>> through it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can
>>> say is that it does go through a range of resistances smoothly.
>>>
>>> I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the
>>> interest of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face
>>> behind the computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default
>>> position seemed to have the lever arm on the wrong side of the
>>> throttle body arm. This would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty
>>> much useless, as far as I can see, as it won't move with the throttle
>>> body lever. Whoops. So just watch that if you need to
>>> replace/adjust that.
>>>
>>> Clint
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>>>>
>>>> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter
>>>> into the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the
>>>> throttle at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the
>>>> volts should be 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the
>>>> throttle opens.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>
>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe
>>>>> give that a whirl.
>>>>>
>>>>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>>>>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
>>>>> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm
>>>>> pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm
>>>>> getting very intimate with my throttle area...
>>>>>
>>>>> Clint
>>>>>
>>>>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the
>>>>>>> two.
>>>>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical
>>>>>>> connector
>>>>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic
>>>>>>> transmission
>>>>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep
>>>>>>> for a
>>>>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity
>>>>>> of $75 for
>>>>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray
>>>>>> it well
>>>>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to
>>>>>> filter
>>>>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the
>>>>>> resistance
>>>>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so
>>>>>> if you
>>>>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several
>>>>>> ohms
>>>>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and
>>>>>> the other
>>>>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the
>>>>>> thing about
>>>>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of
>>>>>> the pins.
>>>>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins
>>>>>> at some
>>>>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of
>>>>>> them by
>>>>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not
>>>>>> sealed, so
>>>>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>>>>> Wagoneer
>>>>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Will Honea
>>>>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>>>>
>>>
>

 

There is a special tool my book calls an 'exerciser' to test the idle
stepper. The book sort of implies a high moves the pintle out and a low
in, but it doesn't say for sure.

It, the ISS has a moving part that can stand to be cleaned.

Mike

Clint wrote:
> I measured before, and was getting < .5V. But whether it was exactly
> .2V or not, my meter didn't give me confidence enough to say yeah or nay.
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4612b0c8$0$2948$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Does your meter not have a volt setting?
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Clint wrote:
>>> To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test
>>> the IAS to make sure it's working correctly?
>>>
>>> BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated
>>> through it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can
>>> say is that it does go through a range of resistances smoothly.
>>>
>>> I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the
>>> interest of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face
>>> behind the computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default
>>> position seemed to have the lever arm on the wrong side of the
>>> throttle body arm. This would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty
>>> much useless, as far as I can see, as it won't move with the throttle
>>> body lever. Whoops. So just watch that if you need to
>>> replace/adjust that.
>>>
>>> Clint
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>>>>
>>>> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter
>>>> into the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the
>>>> throttle at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the
>>>> volts should be 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the
>>>> throttle opens.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>
>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe
>>>>> give that a whirl.
>>>>>
>>>>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>>>>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
>>>>> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm
>>>>> pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm
>>>>> getting very intimate with my throttle area...
>>>>>
>>>>> Clint
>>>>>
>>>>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the
>>>>>>> two.
>>>>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical
>>>>>>> connector
>>>>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic
>>>>>>> transmission
>>>>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep
>>>>>>> for a
>>>>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity
>>>>>> of $75 for
>>>>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray
>>>>>> it well
>>>>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to
>>>>>> filter
>>>>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the
>>>>>> resistance
>>>>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so
>>>>>> if you
>>>>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several
>>>>>> ohms
>>>>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and
>>>>>> the other
>>>>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the
>>>>>> thing about
>>>>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of
>>>>>> the pins.
>>>>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins
>>>>>> at some
>>>>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of
>>>>>> them by
>>>>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not
>>>>>> sealed, so
>>>>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>>>>> Wagoneer
>>>>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Will Honea
>>>>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>>>>
>>>
>

 

There is a special tool my book calls an 'exerciser' to test the idle
stepper. The book sort of implies a high moves the pintle out and a low
in, but it doesn't say for sure.

It, the ISS has a moving part that can stand to be cleaned.

Mike

Clint wrote:
> I measured before, and was getting < .5V. But whether it was exactly
> .2V or not, my meter didn't give me confidence enough to say yeah or nay.
>
> Clint
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4612b0c8$0$2948$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> Does your meter not have a volt setting?
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Clint wrote:
>>> To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test
>>> the IAS to make sure it's working correctly?
>>>
>>> BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated
>>> through it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can
>>> say is that it does go through a range of resistances smoothly.
>>>
>>> I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the
>>> interest of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face
>>> behind the computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default
>>> position seemed to have the lever arm on the wrong side of the
>>> throttle body arm. This would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty
>>> much useless, as far as I can see, as it won't move with the throttle
>>> body lever. Whoops. So just watch that if you need to
>>> replace/adjust that.
>>>
>>> Clint
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>>>>
>>>> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter
>>>> into the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the
>>>> throttle at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the
>>>> volts should be 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the
>>>> throttle opens.
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>
>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe
>>>>> give that a whirl.
>>>>>
>>>>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>>>>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
>>>>> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm
>>>>> pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm
>>>>> getting very intimate with my throttle area...
>>>>>
>>>>> Clint
>>>>>
>>>>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the
>>>>>>> two.
>>>>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical
>>>>>>> connector
>>>>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>>>>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic
>>>>>>> transmission
>>>>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep
>>>>>>> for a
>>>>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity
>>>>>> of $75 for
>>>>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray
>>>>>> it well
>>>>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to
>>>>>> filter
>>>>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the
>>>>>> resistance
>>>>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so
>>>>>> if you
>>>>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several
>>>>>> ohms
>>>>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and
>>>>>> the other
>>>>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the
>>>>>> thing about
>>>>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of
>>>>>> the pins.
>>>>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins
>>>>>> at some
>>>>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of
>>>>>> them by
>>>>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not
>>>>>> sealed, so
>>>>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>>>>> Wagoneer
>>>>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Will Honea
>>>>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>>>>
>>>
>

 

Mike Romain wrote:
> There is a special tool my book calls an 'exerciser' to test the idle
> stepper. The book sort of implies a high moves the pintle out and a
> low in, but it doesn't say for sure.
>
> It, the ISS has a moving part that can stand to be cleaned.

Be careful. Never start the engine with the IAS motor removed or the
little pintle will shoot across the garage and the unit is toast.

With the ignition on, motor not running.

back-probe the connector and find the ground and +5v
(should be the outside two wires)
If there isn't 5v there then you might have a break in the harness
or just not a good contact with the wire.
Now measure the center wire against the ground.

Throttle butterfly Voltage
CLOSED >200 mV
OPEN <4.8 V

The transition between full open and closed should be smooth
with no jumps or dropouts.

--
DougW

 

Mike Romain wrote:
> There is a special tool my book calls an 'exerciser' to test the idle
> stepper. The book sort of implies a high moves the pintle out and a
> low in, but it doesn't say for sure.
>
> It, the ISS has a moving part that can stand to be cleaned.

Be careful. Never start the engine with the IAS motor removed or the
little pintle will shoot across the garage and the unit is toast.

With the ignition on, motor not running.

back-probe the connector and find the ground and +5v
(should be the outside two wires)
If there isn't 5v there then you might have a break in the harness
or just not a good contact with the wire.
Now measure the center wire against the ground.

Throttle butterfly Voltage
CLOSED >200 mV
OPEN <4.8 V

The transition between full open and closed should be smooth
with no jumps or dropouts.

--
DougW

 

Mike Romain wrote:
> There is a special tool my book calls an 'exerciser' to test the idle
> stepper. The book sort of implies a high moves the pintle out and a
> low in, but it doesn't say for sure.
>
> It, the ISS has a moving part that can stand to be cleaned.

Be careful. Never start the engine with the IAS motor removed or the
little pintle will shoot across the garage and the unit is toast.

With the ignition on, motor not running.

back-probe the connector and find the ground and +5v
(should be the outside two wires)
If there isn't 5v there then you might have a break in the harness
or just not a good contact with the wire.
Now measure the center wire against the ground.

Throttle butterfly Voltage
CLOSED >200 mV
OPEN <4.8 V

The transition between full open and closed should be smooth
with no jumps or dropouts.

--
DougW

 

So I went out to a local wrecker, and they had about 6 Cherokee's, all of
about the right vintage. 3 of them still had their IAC's, but all of them
were automatic's, so I couldn't yank the TPS's. Kind of disappointed by the
lack of selection on those.

Anyway, the "new" IAC only cost $2 (the entire throttle body with add-ons
was only $20), but it had exactly the same effect as the old one. *sigh* So
I'm still looking for a TPS to plug in there.

Anyone know if the automatic tranny version of the sensor has any hope of
working? Or would I just be asking for even more pain?

Clint

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4612cd16$0$6402$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> There is a special tool my book calls an 'exerciser' to test the idle
> stepper. The book sort of implies a high moves the pintle out and a low
> in, but it doesn't say for sure.
>
> It, the ISS has a moving part that can stand to be cleaned.
>
> Mike
>
> Clint wrote:
>> I measured before, and was getting < .5V. But whether it was exactly .2V
>> or not, my meter didn't give me confidence enough to say yeah or nay.
>>
>> Clint
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:4612b0c8$0$2948$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> Does your meter not have a volt setting?
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>> Clint wrote:
>>>> To go off on a (yet another) small tangent, is there a way to test the
>>>> IAS to make sure it's working correctly?
>>>>
>>>> BTW, I took off the TPS, and tested the resistance as it rotated
>>>> through it's range. But without having a known good one, all I can say
>>>> is that it does go through a range of resistances smoothly.
>>>>
>>>> I also learned something today, and I'm going to post it in the
>>>> interest of assisting others. Otherwise I'd just hide my red face
>>>> behind the computer screen. When putting the TPS on, the default
>>>> position seemed to have the lever arm on the wrong side of the throttle
>>>> body arm. This would cause the TPS to be rendered pretty much useless,
>>>> as far as I can see, as it won't move with the throttle body lever.
>>>> Whoops. So just watch that if you need to replace/adjust that.
>>>>
>>>> Clint
>>>>
>>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>>> news:4612802a$0$6626$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>>> If you have a multimeter, here are the pinouts for the TPS.
>>>>>
>>>>> With the key in run and the engine and AC off, you put the meter into
>>>>> the back side of the plug and take a voltage reading. With the
>>>>> throttle at rest, the volts should be 200 MV. At wide open, the volts
>>>>> should be 4.8V max. They should smoothly increase as the throttle
>>>>> opens.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>>> I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give
>>>>>> that a whirl.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was
>>>>>> hoping/expecting. But apparently up here in Canada, they make them
>>>>>> things out of gold. On the plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm
>>>>>> pretty sure I can haul that piece off in about 2 minutes! :) I'm
>>>>>> getting very intimate with my throttle area...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Clint
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>>>>>> Clint wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>>>>>>>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>>>>>>>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the
>>>>>>>> two.
>>>>>>>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical
>>>>>>>> connector
>>>>>>>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah,
>>>>>>>> well,
>>>>>>>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic
>>>>>>>> transmission
>>>>>>>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep
>>>>>>>> for a
>>>>>>>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>>>>>>>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of
>>>>>>> $75 for
>>>>>>> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it
>>>>>>> well
>>>>>>> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to
>>>>>>> filter
>>>>>>> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the
>>>>>>> resistance
>>>>>>> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if
>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several
>>>>>>> ohms
>>>>>>> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and
>>>>>>> the other
>>>>>>> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing
>>>>>>> about
>>>>>>> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of
>>>>>>> the pins.
>>>>>>> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at
>>>>>>> some
>>>>>>> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them
>>>>>>> by
>>>>>>> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not
>>>>>>> sealed, so
>>>>>>> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and
>>>>>>> Wagoneer
>>>>>>> with the 4.0 engine.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>> Will Honea
>>>>>>> whonea@yahoo.com
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>