So I did my thorough cleaning of the throttle body, and it seems to run
smoother and more consistent. Don't know about eating off it, but there's
no more black gunk in there. But now immediately after firing it up, it
goes up to about 2000 rpm, and sits there.

I tried unplugging the two sensors (one at a time) and then starting it up.
When I did that to the IAS, it started like I had my foot on the gas (rapid
increase in engine speed). Shut it down, plug in the IAS, then unplug the
TPS. Well, that made it run exactly as it did with it plugged in; start and
run at 2000 rpm. So I'm thinking the TPS is shot, and I should replace it.
Make sense? I had tried adjusting the TPS with no joy as well, even when I
went to one extreme to the other. I haven't re-measured the output of the
TPS; I'll probably do that later today. But it seems it should be doing
something useful.

Clint

"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:3IjOh.81737$DN.58716@pd7urf2no...
> So I'm getting good vacuum using the very imprecise "finger over the hose
> end" at the CCV hose, and the TPS sensor goes from about 1 to 5 volts. Is
> there some other things I should check?
>
> Today it behaved differently than usual, hitting close to 3000 rpm while
> "idling". Usually it starts at about 800rpm when I start it up, and stays
> constant at about 1500.
>
> Could having a bad CCV valve be causing my problem? I'm getting some oil
> in my air filter as well, and as per these websites, it seems that may be
> that cause of the oil:
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257836
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257985
>
> I did try sealing around the grommets with some RTV silicone, but it
> didn't seem to make a difference.
>
> I guess I KNOW that I need to fix the CCV hoses/valves, but can this be
> causing my problem with the high idle? If nothing else, I'm figuring that
> oil in the air filter probably isn't helping keep the throttle body really
> clean, since the oil can get into the air system from there.
>
> Clint

 

So I did my thorough cleaning of the throttle body, and it seems to run
smoother and more consistent. Don't know about eating off it, but there's
no more black gunk in there. But now immediately after firing it up, it
goes up to about 2000 rpm, and sits there.

I tried unplugging the two sensors (one at a time) and then starting it up.
When I did that to the IAS, it started like I had my foot on the gas (rapid
increase in engine speed). Shut it down, plug in the IAS, then unplug the
TPS. Well, that made it run exactly as it did with it plugged in; start and
run at 2000 rpm. So I'm thinking the TPS is shot, and I should replace it.
Make sense? I had tried adjusting the TPS with no joy as well, even when I
went to one extreme to the other. I haven't re-measured the output of the
TPS; I'll probably do that later today. But it seems it should be doing
something useful.

Clint

"Clint" <cneufeld@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:3IjOh.81737$DN.58716@pd7urf2no...
> So I'm getting good vacuum using the very imprecise "finger over the hose
> end" at the CCV hose, and the TPS sensor goes from about 1 to 5 volts. Is
> there some other things I should check?
>
> Today it behaved differently than usual, hitting close to 3000 rpm while
> "idling". Usually it starts at about 800rpm when I start it up, and stays
> constant at about 1500.
>
> Could having a bad CCV valve be causing my problem? I'm getting some oil
> in my air filter as well, and as per these websites, it seems that may be
> that cause of the oil:
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257836
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257985
>
> I did try sealing around the grommets with some RTV silicone, but it
> didn't seem to make a difference.
>
> I guess I KNOW that I need to fix the CCV hoses/valves, but can this be
> causing my problem with the high idle? If nothing else, I'm figuring that
> oil in the air filter probably isn't helping keep the throttle body really
> clean, since the oil can get into the air system from there.
>
> Clint

 

So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
*sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
logic isn't required, I guess.

I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.

Clint

On Mar 31, 4:14 pm, "Clint" <cneuf...@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote:
> So I did my thorough cleaning of the throttle body, and it seems to run
> smoother and more consistent. Don't know about eating off it, but there's
> no more black gunk in there. But now immediately after firing it up, it
> goes up to about 2000 rpm, and sits there.
>
> I tried unplugging the two sensors (one at a time) and then starting it up.
> When I did that to the IAS, it started like I had my foot on the gas (rapid
> increase in engine speed). Shut it down, plug in the IAS, then unplug the
> TPS. Well, that made it run exactly as it did with it plugged in; start and
> run at 2000 rpm. So I'm thinking the TPS is shot, and I should replace it.
> Make sense? I had tried adjusting the TPS with no joy as well, even when I
> went to one extreme to the other. I haven't re-measured the output of the
> TPS; I'll probably do that later today. But it seems it should be doing
> something useful.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneuf...@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>
> news:3IjOh.81737$DN.58716@pd7urf2no...
>
>
>
> > So I'm getting good vacuum using the very imprecise "finger over the hose
> > end" at the CCV hose, and the TPS sensor goes from about 1 to 5 volts. Is
> > there some other things I should check?
>
> > Today it behaved differently than usual, hitting close to 3000 rpm while
> > "idling". Usually it starts at about 800rpm when I start it up, and stays
> > constant at about 1500.
>
> > Could having a bad CCV valve be causing my problem? I'm getting some oil
> > in my air filter as well, and as per these websites, it seems that may be
> > that cause of the oil:
> >http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257836
> >http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257985
>
> > I did try sealing around the grommets with some RTV silicone, but it
> > didn't seem to make a difference.
>
> > I guess I KNOW that I need to fix the CCV hoses/valves, but can this be
> > causing my problem with the high idle? If nothing else, I'm figuring that
> > oil in the air filter probably isn't helping keep the throttle body really
> > clean, since the oil can get into the air system from there.
>
> > Clint- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

 

So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
*sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
logic isn't required, I guess.

I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.

Clint

On Mar 31, 4:14 pm, "Clint" <cneuf...@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote:
> So I did my thorough cleaning of the throttle body, and it seems to run
> smoother and more consistent. Don't know about eating off it, but there's
> no more black gunk in there. But now immediately after firing it up, it
> goes up to about 2000 rpm, and sits there.
>
> I tried unplugging the two sensors (one at a time) and then starting it up.
> When I did that to the IAS, it started like I had my foot on the gas (rapid
> increase in engine speed). Shut it down, plug in the IAS, then unplug the
> TPS. Well, that made it run exactly as it did with it plugged in; start and
> run at 2000 rpm. So I'm thinking the TPS is shot, and I should replace it.
> Make sense? I had tried adjusting the TPS with no joy as well, even when I
> went to one extreme to the other. I haven't re-measured the output of the
> TPS; I'll probably do that later today. But it seems it should be doing
> something useful.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneuf...@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>
> news:3IjOh.81737$DN.58716@pd7urf2no...
>
>
>
> > So I'm getting good vacuum using the very imprecise "finger over the hose
> > end" at the CCV hose, and the TPS sensor goes from about 1 to 5 volts. Is
> > there some other things I should check?
>
> > Today it behaved differently than usual, hitting close to 3000 rpm while
> > "idling". Usually it starts at about 800rpm when I start it up, and stays
> > constant at about 1500.
>
> > Could having a bad CCV valve be causing my problem? I'm getting some oil
> > in my air filter as well, and as per these websites, it seems that may be
> > that cause of the oil:
> >http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257836
> >http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257985
>
> > I did try sealing around the grommets with some RTV silicone, but it
> > didn't seem to make a difference.
>
> > I guess I KNOW that I need to fix the CCV hoses/valves, but can this be
> > causing my problem with the high idle? If nothing else, I'm figuring that
> > oil in the air filter probably isn't helping keep the throttle body really
> > clean, since the oil can get into the air system from there.
>
> > Clint- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

 

So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
*sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
logic isn't required, I guess.

I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.

Clint

On Mar 31, 4:14 pm, "Clint" <cneuf...@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote:
> So I did my thorough cleaning of the throttle body, and it seems to run
> smoother and more consistent. Don't know about eating off it, but there's
> no more black gunk in there. But now immediately after firing it up, it
> goes up to about 2000 rpm, and sits there.
>
> I tried unplugging the two sensors (one at a time) and then starting it up.
> When I did that to the IAS, it started like I had my foot on the gas (rapid
> increase in engine speed). Shut it down, plug in the IAS, then unplug the
> TPS. Well, that made it run exactly as it did with it plugged in; start and
> run at 2000 rpm. So I'm thinking the TPS is shot, and I should replace it.
> Make sense? I had tried adjusting the TPS with no joy as well, even when I
> went to one extreme to the other. I haven't re-measured the output of the
> TPS; I'll probably do that later today. But it seems it should be doing
> something useful.
>
> Clint
>
> "Clint" <cneuf...@mysocks.shaw.ca> wrote in message
>
> news:3IjOh.81737$DN.58716@pd7urf2no...
>
>
>
> > So I'm getting good vacuum using the very imprecise "finger over the hose
> > end" at the CCV hose, and the TPS sensor goes from about 1 to 5 volts. Is
> > there some other things I should check?
>
> > Today it behaved differently than usual, hitting close to 3000 rpm while
> > "idling". Usually it starts at about 800rpm when I start it up, and stays
> > constant at about 1500.
>
> > Could having a bad CCV valve be causing my problem? I'm getting some oil
> > in my air filter as well, and as per these websites, it seems that may be
> > that cause of the oil:
> >http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257836
> >http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=257985
>
> > I did try sealing around the grommets with some RTV silicone, but it
> > didn't seem to make a difference.
>
> > I guess I KNOW that I need to fix the CCV hoses/valves, but can this be
> > causing my problem with the high idle? If nothing else, I'm figuring that
> > oil in the air filter probably isn't helping keep the throttle body really
> > clean, since the oil can get into the air system from there.
>
> > Clint- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

 

Clint wrote:

> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
> logic isn't required, I guess.
>
> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.

I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75 for
a new one - several suppliers to chose from.

Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
(not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the other
two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing about
half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the pins.
Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so
the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!

FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and Wagoneer
with the 4.0 engine.

--
Will Honea
whonea@yahoo.com

 

Clint wrote:

> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
> logic isn't required, I guess.
>
> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.

I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75 for
a new one - several suppliers to chose from.

Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
(not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the other
two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing about
half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the pins.
Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so
the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!

FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and Wagoneer
with the 4.0 engine.

--
Will Honea
whonea@yahoo.com

 

Clint wrote:

> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
> logic isn't required, I guess.
>
> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.

I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75 for
a new one - several suppliers to chose from.

Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
(not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the other
two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing about
half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the pins.
Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so
the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!

FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and Wagoneer
with the 4.0 engine.

--
Will Honea
whonea@yahoo.com

 

I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give that a
whirl.

As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was hoping/expecting.
But apparently up here in Canada, they make them things out of gold. On the
plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty sure I can haul that piece off
in about 2 minutes! :) I'm getting very intimate with my throttle area...

Clint

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Clint wrote:
>
>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>
>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>
> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75
> for
> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>
> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
> other
> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing about
> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
> pins.
> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so
> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>
> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and Wagoneer
> with the 4.0 engine.
>
> --
> Will Honea
> whonea@yahoo.com

 

I've got some contact cleaner, as well as some WD40. I'll maybe give that a
whirl.

As far as suppliers goes, that's the kind of price I was hoping/expecting.
But apparently up here in Canada, they make them things out of gold. On the
plus side, if I find an old Jeep, I'm pretty sure I can haul that piece off
in about 2 minutes! :) I'm getting very intimate with my throttle area...

Clint

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:46121333$0$494$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Clint wrote:
>
>> So I stopped by the local parts place, and they wanted $280 for the
>> sensor! The manual transmission one was twice as much as the
>> automatic one, and of course, I've got the more expensive of the two.
>> *sigh* I thought the automatic one had an extra electrical connector
>> on it? So shouldn't it be the more expensive of the two? Ah, well,
>> logic isn't required, I guess.
>>
>> I checked a "parts recycler", and they had the automatic transmission
>> version in stock, but it was still $75, which seems pretty steep for a
>> used part like that. I think I'll have to find a "pick-your-part"
>> type place. I can yank it out in no time, at least.
>
> I checked Advanced Auto Parts online and they get in the vicinity of $75
> for
> a new one - several suppliers to chose from.
>
> Before you go throwing money at it, remove the old one and spray it well
> with WD40 or contact cleaner. You should be able to get some to filter
> inside. Get as close to the unit as possible and measure the resistance
> between all the pins. That !!@#$% thing is a simple rheostat so if you
> turn it as far as it goes in one direction, you should get several ohms
> (not sure of the exact value - sorry) between one of the pins and the
> other
> two. Leave one end of the ohm meter where it was and turn the thing about
> half way. Now you should see about half the resistance at one of the
> pins.
> Swap thing around to be sure you have contact between all 3 pins at some
> point. I have been able to clean the wiper arm in a couple of them by
> soaking the thing in WD40 for a days or so - the shaft is not sealed, so
> the solvent will seep in - and it sure beats $75!
>
> FYI, AA lists the same part for the 87-90 Comanche, Cherokee, and Wagoneer
> with the 4.0 engine.
>
> --
> Will Honea
> whonea@yahoo.com