Just snip the wires and wire nut them together, or put auto connectors
opposite and plug them together. Ripping out stuff just cuts into top down
time.

--
HarryS My 2¢
"JD Adams" <withheld@my.request> wrote in message
news:99GdneDz-7viev_fRVn-3Q@softcom.net...
| On the '05's you can still do this, however the '4WD' lamp on the dash
stays
| lit as a result. I'll probably spend next Saturday underneath the dash
| figuring out how to rip the whole thing out by the wires. I figure if
you're
| smart enough to defeat such a device, you're probably good to go without
it.
|
| -JD
|
|
| Mike Romain wrote:
| > I thought you could just stick a fuse into the 'auto' tranny slot in the
| > fuse panel on a TJ and away you go with a bypassed clutch switch?

 

I unplugged the interlock switch and bridged it with a spade connector, then
taped it off, which accomplishes the same goal. Decided it would be best to
leave the guts intact should I ever sell to avoid liability issues.

Checked on the well-known 'transmission' slot in the fuse block. The slot is
present, but is not wired on the '05's, and has been replaced by another,
dedicated 'clutch override' slot which allows you to crank without pressing
the pedal, but this also illuminates the '4WD' dash lamp.

My biggest problem today: I accidentally topped off the radiator with Dex-Cool
yesterday afternoon. I now must drain and flush with purified water, then
refill with G-05. Almost didn't catch this one - both are orange, but as we
all know, coolant color is meaningless.

-JD

HarryS wrote:
> Just snip the wires and wire nut them together, or put auto connectors
> opposite and plug them together. Ripping out stuff just cuts into top down
> time.
>

 

I unplugged the interlock switch and bridged it with a spade connector, then
taped it off, which accomplishes the same goal. Decided it would be best to
leave the guts intact should I ever sell to avoid liability issues.

Checked on the well-known 'transmission' slot in the fuse block. The slot is
present, but is not wired on the '05's, and has been replaced by another,
dedicated 'clutch override' slot which allows you to crank without pressing
the pedal, but this also illuminates the '4WD' dash lamp.

My biggest problem today: I accidentally topped off the radiator with Dex-Cool
yesterday afternoon. I now must drain and flush with purified water, then
refill with G-05. Almost didn't catch this one - both are orange, but as we
all know, coolant color is meaningless.

-JD

HarryS wrote:
> Just snip the wires and wire nut them together, or put auto connectors
> opposite and plug them together. Ripping out stuff just cuts into top down
> time.
>

 

I unplugged the interlock switch and bridged it with a spade connector, then
taped it off, which accomplishes the same goal. Decided it would be best to
leave the guts intact should I ever sell to avoid liability issues.

Checked on the well-known 'transmission' slot in the fuse block. The slot is
present, but is not wired on the '05's, and has been replaced by another,
dedicated 'clutch override' slot which allows you to crank without pressing
the pedal, but this also illuminates the '4WD' dash lamp.

My biggest problem today: I accidentally topped off the radiator with Dex-Cool
yesterday afternoon. I now must drain and flush with purified water, then
refill with G-05. Almost didn't catch this one - both are orange, but as we
all know, coolant color is meaningless.

-JD

HarryS wrote:
> Just snip the wires and wire nut them together, or put auto connectors
> opposite and plug them together. Ripping out stuff just cuts into top down
> time.
>

 

I unplugged the interlock switch and bridged it with a spade connector, then
taped it off, which accomplishes the same goal. Decided it would be best to
leave the guts intact should I ever sell to avoid liability issues.

Checked on the well-known 'transmission' slot in the fuse block. The slot is
present, but is not wired on the '05's, and has been replaced by another,
dedicated 'clutch override' slot which allows you to crank without pressing
the pedal, but this also illuminates the '4WD' dash lamp.

My biggest problem today: I accidentally topped off the radiator with Dex-Cool
yesterday afternoon. I now must drain and flush with purified water, then
refill with G-05. Almost didn't catch this one - both are orange, but as we
all know, coolant color is meaningless.

-JD

HarryS wrote:
> Just snip the wires and wire nut them together, or put auto connectors
> opposite and plug them together. Ripping out stuff just cuts into top down
> time.
>

 

I appreciate the notion that this is a safety device, and that it is
annoying. I want to explore the part about how the crank bearings and
journals have anything to do with the state of the clutch.





"JD Adams" <withheld@my.request> wrote in message
news:x6GdnQdDZ_peUPzfRVn-ug@softcom.net...
> Quick question about an '05 TJL I bought in February.
>
> I *loathe* Big Brother demanding that my left foot sit squarely on the
> clutch pedal before I am allowed to crank the engine. The engine crank
> bearings and journals don't like it either, no oil pressure being present
> and all. Some of us are smart enough to fire the damned thing in neutral,
> thank you very much!
>
> Anyway, I simply umplugged 'the device' and shorted it with a small piece
> of wire and some black tape. What I'd rather do is undo the clutch master
> cylinder actuator rod and remove the entire offensive device altogether.
> I can't see far enough up there to determine how to unhook the rod itself.
>
> Has anyone done this? One can always just insert the appropriate fuse in
> the block, however one must tolerate the constant '4WD' lamp, and frankly,
> I'd just assume see the entire pressure switch go away, purely as a matter
> of principle.
>
> Not interested in flames on 'safety concerns'. I'm a veteran Commerical
> Driver and I have no need for bolt-on Goverment mandated safety
> enhancement crapola designed for stupid people and/or Corporations who
> wish to limit their civil liability.
>
> -JD

 

I appreciate the notion that this is a safety device, and that it is
annoying. I want to explore the part about how the crank bearings and
journals have anything to do with the state of the clutch.





"JD Adams" <withheld@my.request> wrote in message
news:x6GdnQdDZ_peUPzfRVn-ug@softcom.net...
> Quick question about an '05 TJL I bought in February.
>
> I *loathe* Big Brother demanding that my left foot sit squarely on the
> clutch pedal before I am allowed to crank the engine. The engine crank
> bearings and journals don't like it either, no oil pressure being present
> and all. Some of us are smart enough to fire the damned thing in neutral,
> thank you very much!
>
> Anyway, I simply umplugged 'the device' and shorted it with a small piece
> of wire and some black tape. What I'd rather do is undo the clutch master
> cylinder actuator rod and remove the entire offensive device altogether.
> I can't see far enough up there to determine how to unhook the rod itself.
>
> Has anyone done this? One can always just insert the appropriate fuse in
> the block, however one must tolerate the constant '4WD' lamp, and frankly,
> I'd just assume see the entire pressure switch go away, purely as a matter
> of principle.
>
> Not interested in flames on 'safety concerns'. I'm a veteran Commerical
> Driver and I have no need for bolt-on Goverment mandated safety
> enhancement crapola designed for stupid people and/or Corporations who
> wish to limit their civil liability.
>
> -JD

 

I appreciate the notion that this is a safety device, and that it is
annoying. I want to explore the part about how the crank bearings and
journals have anything to do with the state of the clutch.





"JD Adams" <withheld@my.request> wrote in message
news:x6GdnQdDZ_peUPzfRVn-ug@softcom.net...
> Quick question about an '05 TJL I bought in February.
>
> I *loathe* Big Brother demanding that my left foot sit squarely on the
> clutch pedal before I am allowed to crank the engine. The engine crank
> bearings and journals don't like it either, no oil pressure being present
> and all. Some of us are smart enough to fire the damned thing in neutral,
> thank you very much!
>
> Anyway, I simply umplugged 'the device' and shorted it with a small piece
> of wire and some black tape. What I'd rather do is undo the clutch master
> cylinder actuator rod and remove the entire offensive device altogether.
> I can't see far enough up there to determine how to unhook the rod itself.
>
> Has anyone done this? One can always just insert the appropriate fuse in
> the block, however one must tolerate the constant '4WD' lamp, and frankly,
> I'd just assume see the entire pressure switch go away, purely as a matter
> of principle.
>
> Not interested in flames on 'safety concerns'. I'm a veteran Commerical
> Driver and I have no need for bolt-on Goverment mandated safety
> enhancement crapola designed for stupid people and/or Corporations who
> wish to limit their civil liability.
>
> -JD

 

I appreciate the notion that this is a safety device, and that it is
annoying. I want to explore the part about how the crank bearings and
journals have anything to do with the state of the clutch.





"JD Adams" <withheld@my.request> wrote in message
news:x6GdnQdDZ_peUPzfRVn-ug@softcom.net...
> Quick question about an '05 TJL I bought in February.
>
> I *loathe* Big Brother demanding that my left foot sit squarely on the
> clutch pedal before I am allowed to crank the engine. The engine crank
> bearings and journals don't like it either, no oil pressure being present
> and all. Some of us are smart enough to fire the damned thing in neutral,
> thank you very much!
>
> Anyway, I simply umplugged 'the device' and shorted it with a small piece
> of wire and some black tape. What I'd rather do is undo the clutch master
> cylinder actuator rod and remove the entire offensive device altogether.
> I can't see far enough up there to determine how to unhook the rod itself.
>
> Has anyone done this? One can always just insert the appropriate fuse in
> the block, however one must tolerate the constant '4WD' lamp, and frankly,
> I'd just assume see the entire pressure switch go away, purely as a matter
> of principle.
>
> Not interested in flames on 'safety concerns'. I'm a veteran Commerical
> Driver and I have no need for bolt-on Goverment mandated safety
> enhancement crapola designed for stupid people and/or Corporations who
> wish to limit their civil liability.
>
> -JD

 

On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 14:29:17 -0700, the following appeared
in rec.autos.makers.jeep+******, posted by L.W.(ßill) ------
III <----------@***.net>:

Yep. I had a '53 Ambassador for about 3 months when I was in
11th grade, and IIRC the starter button on the floor was
pressed by a metal tab off the left(?) side of the clutch
pedal. Of course, you could always reach around the pedal
with your foot and press it directly, but why bother? It
took a fair push to get the starter cranking, so there was
no real danger of pressing it while shifting normally (and
you'd hardly be drag racing that boat). ;-)

> Nash used the clutch pedal to engage the starter, and release the
>brake.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>HarryS wrote:
>>
>> I am surprised they haven't done it motorcycles yet, I can't remember when
>> they first started doing it to autos but the clutch safety switch is usually
>> my first modification. Where the is a will there is a way and it is usually
>> for the better.
>>
>> --
>> HarryS My 2¢
>> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:4261D35C.496A424F@***.net...
>> | I have seen many times the wear the thrust main burns into the
>> | crank, via people that rest the foot on the clutch pedal. I sounds like
>> | you have the problem whipped good enough for yourself, though.
>> | God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> | mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>> |
>> | JD Adams wrote:
>> | >
>> | > Quick question about an '05 TJL I bought in February.
>> | >
>> | > I *loathe* Big Brother demanding that my left foot sit squarely on the
>> clutch
>> | > pedal before I am allowed to crank the engine. The engine crank
>> bearings and
>> | > journals don't like it either, no oil pressure being present and all.
>> Some of
>> | > us are smart enough to fire the damned thing in neutral, thank you very
>> much!
>> | >
>> | > Anyway, I simply umplugged 'the device' and shorted it with a small
>> piece of
>> | > wire and some black tape. What I'd rather do is undo the clutch master
>> | > cylinder actuator rod and remove the entire offensive device altogether.
>> I
>> | > can't see far enough up there to determine how to unhook the rod itself.
>> | >
>> | > Has anyone done this? One can always just insert the appropriate fuse
>> in the
>> | > block, however one must tolerate the constant '4WD' lamp, and frankly,
>> I'd
>> | > just assume see the entire pressure switch go away, purely as a matter
>> of
>> | > principle.
>> | >
>> | > Not interested in flames on 'safety concerns'. I'm a veteran Commerical
>> | > Driver and I have no need for bolt-on Goverment mandated safety
>> enhancement
>> | > crapola designed for stupid people and/or Corporations who wish to limit
>> their
>> | > civil liability.
>> | >
>> | > -JD

--

Bob C.

"Evidence confirming an observation is
evidence that the observation is wrong."
- McNameless